My 2003 Chrysler is making a strange "whirring" noise. It is shaking a bit and there is occasionally a knocking noise near the rear driver's side tire. What the problem could be?
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 Chrysler is making a strange "whirring" noise. It is shaking a bit and there is occasionally a knocking noise near the rear driver's side tire. What the problem could be?
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 ex Honda Civic. Engine: (140hp 1.8-Liter SOHC 16-Valve i-VTEC 4-Cylinder 5-Speed Automatic with Grade Logic Control).
In the mornings, when I start it, it shakes & makes a hollow shaking noise in the engine compartment. This noise is normally more noticeable after having it parked overnight or not driving it for a few hours. The shaking noise is more pronounced after being parked overnight, starting it, & also putting it in reverse. After driving it for 30min, the noise & shaking stops.
I accidentally left my car on overnight and my battery was dead in the morning, of course. I got it jumped and I drove all the way to work, but every time I slowed down at a light or for traffic the car started shaking. It has to be fairly slow before it starts happening, say 15-10 mph or lower. It never did this before the battery went dead, and it stops as soon as I gave the car any amount of gas at all. I'm hoping this is just a temporary side-effect of having to jump the battery. What the problem might be?
View 8 RepliesWhat would casue a clicking noise (like a sewing machine)under acceleration for the first several miles on a cold morning (50 degrees or below, we live in Louisiana)? Car is 2006 Chrysler 300C with 5.7L Hemi motor, 90,000 miles, all lifters replaced last summer - noise was apparent before new lifters. Dealership is stumped - they do not believe it is a problem with new lifters.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 PT Cruiser.
I noticed 3 distinctive noises; All of them coming from the front weel(s).
1) While driving, the car makes a boiling-kettle like sound, all the time.
2) Also while driving, it occasionally makes a taping sound (like tapping shoes). I checked all four tires and none have pebbels or nails/metal stuck to them. I do not know how or why it is making such sound
3) Finally, while breaking, the front wheels (specially the front left; driver side) makes a horrible loud squeaky sound.
After a long drive, I stopped worrying about the noises. I inspected the tires and noticed that both front wheels (rims) were super hot. I compared the temperature with the ones on the back and they where cold.
1995 Chrysler LHS
I have a shake in the front end. It is similar to driving on a rocky surface and it shakes the whole vehicle. It occurs between 40 and 55 MPH and when I'm climbing a hill. At other speeds it is fine. If I let off the gas then it is fine as it coasts, even at those defined speeds.
I've replaced the struts and the wheel bearings and an outer tie rod. I had the front end aligned and balanced the two front tires.
I have a Chrysler 300m 2004, 3.5. I have done a replacement of the timing belt at 100 000 mark with a chrysler dealer.
It has been misfiring for a while since. I brought it to a dealer who told me that the camshaft crankshaft and oxygen sensors need to be changed. So I did. (camshaft and crankshaft were changed with the dealer. Oxygen sensor was changed with independent with generic not factory sensor because the dealer did not have it.)
It did not solve the problem. Now the car is shaking and sometimes cannot accelerate. I even change spark plugs and battery. I brought it to an independent, the mechanic told me that there is 3.8 degrees difference between cam and crankshaft sensors. They are out of sync and suggest that I should bring back to the dealer who replaced the timing belt.
When I brought the car to the dealer, they told me that chrysler 300m 2004 tolerates up to 12 degrees difference so the cam and crankshaft are not out of sync. Nothing to do with the timing belt that they installed. I called the independent mechanic but he told me that in general it's 1 to 1.6 degree.
I am trying to get this car of mine into tip top shape (2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE). Ive been experiencing this problem where the rpms will jump while the engine is under a high load. If i apply more throttle, the problem goes away.(as shown in the video)
In the youtube video below, I am going up a 5% grade. This will happen at slower speeds, but i will need a significantly steeper grade of around 25-30% ...
[URL] ....
On my way home late at night, my tachometer started jumping a little, and the engine was rough. Then after another minute the lights dimmed and the engine died. It wouldn't start again. The next morning, it started right up, and it seemed fine. Drove it to the mechanic, he took it for a drive on the freeway, then after he got off the freeway it died again and had to be towed. The error code on the computer is P0326- Knock Sensor. I had the same sensor activated a couple of years ago, and my awesome mechanic (we have since moved far away, so I don't have access to the same guy) gave the engine a tune-up and replace the spark plugs and everything was fine (well, for two years). The car has been idling rough, and the intake manifold may be warped. Could the intake manifold cause this? Distributor?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Escape, and since the colder weather set in it is tacking below 1 and 'jumping' when idle. When accelerating and/or once the heat gauge has reach midway, the car is fine. I added a bottle of gas additive to the tank 3 weeks back, but the problem persists. The engine light is on but no code is registering.
View 2 Replies2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
View 2 Replies2005 Honda Civic which has been pretty reliable up to this point. Had all the suggested maintenance services up until the most recent which just passed. Last oil change and inspection: Early November.
Last month:Went to start up the car and it basically went all blinky with power. But after letting it sit for a minute or two, it started up just fine. This happened three times. On the third time opened up the hood and found corrode on both polls of the battery. Scrubbed and cleaned the posts and connectors. Had the battery tested and it was just fine. After that no problems or occurrences. Only things that lingers in my head is that perhaps the driver door window rolls down slowly (thought the motor was going out and would have to replace soon) and the headlines would slightly dim and waver at times, but not consistently.
Now:Just got back from vacation and car has been sitting about two weeks. Mostly in weather below freezing, but in a garage. Went to start up the car and the starter would rev but the engine would not turn over. Battery seems to be good still. Jumping did not work either.
I did some maintenance:
1. Changed oil
2. Flushed ATF fluid
3. Cleaned throttle body
4. Cleaned MAF sensor
I did all of these one right after the other and when I rolled out to test drive, the car shuddered and now the engine is making weird noises. I don't want to turn the car on again or drive it.
I have the 5 cylinder. Anyway, after I turn the car off and get out, I can hear the engine making some clicking noises. Always been curious what that is. Also, when I unlock the car and open the door, I hear a high pitch sound. Is that the fuel pump priming in anticipation?
'12 Golf 2.5 17,100mi manual.
Disconcerting noises from my engine that began suddenly around 198,000 miles.
Nobody listening seems to think it's bottom end, and I did check valve clearances and found them all to be on the tight side (ten within tolerance on the tight side, and six just-out-of-tolerance tight).
I also saw what looked like less oil on the #4 exhaust cam lobes and I'm wondering if there could be some kind of oil delivery issue. (#4 exhaust was also an area that had stuck out to the stethoscope before I took the cover off).
There's a dark brown varnish pretty much everywhere on the top deck (photo in other thread), pretty much as a thin coat that doesn't rub off easily, but I saw a few flat flakes coming off here and there, and wonder if that stuff might occlude an oil passage.
I've picked up a product called Auto-RX that I've never used before. From reading its patent I think there at least might be something to it (an ester of a fatty acid that's claimed to dissolve varnish and sludge without the other effects of more conventional solvents).
I bought a 2008 5.4l xlt about a year ago now. For the first time I took it on a trail that had a little mud. With my incredible wisdom, I decided to park the truck rather than wash it off. The next day the engine started making weird noises when I turned the steering wheel. After washing the truck it still made noises so I opened the hood. THE ENTIRE engine compartment is covered in a serious amount of mud. I feel that this has to be what started the noises when I turn. Mud dried in the wrong place? The noise sounds like a whine and its pitch matches the engine rpm until over 2500 where I don't really hear it anymore. Is there a way to flush the engine compartment?
View 7 RepliesI've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
View 8 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai Elantra with about 130,000 miles has possibly the loudest engine imaginable. It seems fine at start-up but really starts to rumble around 35mph. Once I get to 60+mph, I'm getting hearing damage, and there's enough shaking to make it difficult to see what's in my mirrors.
Oddly enough, the engine clams down when I turn the wheel around a curve on the highway. As soon as I'm driving straight again, it's loud and shaky. In addition, the gauge next to my speedometer, (which I believe is 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear, etc, right?), the needle fluctuates significantly and bounces around violently between 2 and 3. The check engine light will come on and stay on for a week, then shut off for another week. It has turned on and then off several times now.
Would you say this is a simple oil issue? I just got it changed not too long ago. And it only started when it started to get really cold here in MA. Could just be a coincidence though. I don't want to pay a lot to fix anything, I only need to get this car to last 6 more months til I can get something new. Any small steps you think I could take to decrease the shaking and noise?
My 1996 Firebird with 3800 series II V6 engine makes a ringing noise. The noise appears to come from the front of the engine (pulley area) and sounds like an old fashioned fire alarm. It usually occurs after the engine has warmed up and cannot be heard from inside while cruising.
View 4 Replies05 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L, auto, 2WD, 161K miles. Just bought it a couple weeks ago. Not much info about repair history, other than it appears to be well maintained inside and out.
Engine makes two kinds of noise - rattly top end noise and a low frequency thud-thud-thud.
I have shared some MP3 files on my Google Drive, but the forum blocks links for new users.
Apart from the noises, the engine starts and runs flawlessly, seems to have plenty of power (for a 2.7L, ha), and cruises at freeway speeds no problem. No tailpipe smoke or steam, whether cold or hot. Have searched the forums for this but nothing matches exactly.
I don't drive it much because I work from home, basically just around the corner to the grocery store and back. Haven't pulled the valve or timing covers yet, waiting to hear from all you Hyundai experts out there. Top end noise is one thing, but the thud really has me concerned.
Top end noise sounds like lifters not injectors - but I'm not sure I can really tell the difference, there's a lot of "sewing machine noise" going on. On cold start, it's not very noticeable, but becomes more pronounced as the the engine warms up. At operating temp it settles into a consistent rattle at idle. Seems to diminish slightly with higher RPMs, which also suggests worn/sticky lifters.
Oil looks clean and fresh. Haven't tried the Hyundai oil filter, but IMO this level of noise is well beyond the simple lifter ticking that others in the forums have described and reported cured by using the OEM filter.
I used the "long screwdriver with handle in my ear" trick to listen at various points on the heads and valve covers. At idle, it sounds like 2 or 3 lifters on the front bank that are making most of the noise, but maybe a couple on the rear bank as well, hard to get the screwdriver tip back there. Is there a particular spot where lifters can be heard best, distinct from everything else?
The low frequency thud-thud-thud is most audible when letting the throttle close after opening it up to about 2000 rpm. It can also be strongly felt through the throttle mechanism when operating it by hand. Still audible at higher RPMs, but not nearly as distinct, more of a subdued throbbing. Noise is coming from around the rear bank, about half way down the firewall. I fear it is number 3 rod, but is there anything else that would make this sound? I don't think it's a motor mount because there's no noise when putting it into gear, driving, or shifting. How can I tell for sure whether it's a rod? If it is a rod, can it be replaced without pulling the motor?