Chrysler - Cirrus :: 2000 V6 - No Start After Sitting Out In Wet Weather
Mar 21, 2013
2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 V6, 84,300 miles. Twice, after sitting out a day or 2 in wet weather, it was very, very difficult to start. Each time, it didn't fire at all, but then did finally start after 4 or 5 tries and ran fine.
Tried spraying water everywhere under the hood, while it was running, but got no miss or other symptom. After then sitting a day or 2 in the garage, it started and ran fine the first 2-3 miles, then started stumbling/missing and stalled at a light. It restarted and continued to stumble/miss before running fine after another 1-3 miles. Changed the distributor cap and repeated the same test, getting same result. Also checked fuel pressure--it's on the money, building specified pressure and holding as expected. No check engine light or other symptom and no relevant codes.
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My car died while driving on the highway. The mechanic said it was the distributor, but also that the fuel pump wasn't working. When he replaced the distributor, the car works, no fuel pump problem. Does the fuel pump shut off when the engine dies or is this going to be another problem down the road? 2000 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi...
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I own a cirrus 2000 which lately have been giving me trouble. I took it to a mechanic for tune up and ended up having a lot of issues. At the moment I am having a lot of rattle or hard driving. The car shakes alot and recently I took it for a diagnostic and the result was P0303 and P0305 and vacuum leak. What causes this problem and how can I get it fixed?
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I have a '97 Chrysler Cirrus that won't start on it's own without being jump started. Once jump started it runs fine, but then the next time you go to start it the battery is drained again. My highly uneducated guess is that I need to replace the alternator. Am I on the right track? I replaced the battery and the problem persisted.
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1997 6 cylinder Chrysler Cirrus 162,000 miles. My car will randomly and unpredictably go into limp mode. I suddenly find myself in second gear while my engine is revving at high speed (3000-5000 RPMs) in order to maintain velocity. The check engine light comes on immediately, but usually switches off after 2-3 days maximum, and typically less than that. If I pull over, and turn off the engine, it re-sets, allowing me to start the car, and continue my journey, shifting normally.
Additional pertinent information:
• it happens more often when the weather is warm
• it has happened while traveling down the highway at 65 mph (scary!)
• at times, the shift into second is so abrupt, it feels as though I have been rear-ended
• once, while in a traffic jam and moving at about 20 mph, I hit a pot hole and the engine started revving at 3000, with no change of gears
• a couple of times, rather than throwing me into second, it has seemed to throw me into neutral, with the familiar high revs, but absolutely no power with increased pressure on the gas pedal
• it is happening with increased frequency i.e. I have had to stop as many as six times during an 16 mile trip.
• Recurring computer codes: P0140, P0141, P0700, P0765, P1494
04/2011 replace right front cam sealFront engine mountReplace front valve cover gasket w/tube sealsFront bank spark plugs & wires (3 platinum plugs)Transmission flush
05/2011 cylinder #5 misfireReplace rear valve cover gasket & tube seals3 platinum plugs (leaky power steering pump fouled the plugs)
05/2011 recall work #C45 floor shifter ignition/park interlockPush rod trans- shifter
09/2012 transmission shift solenoid
10/2012 6 new plugs & wires Plenum gasketDistributor capEGR valve gasket
There has been other service work done during this time period, but (I think) I have included only that which may relate to the transmission. I am so frustrated, and my mechanic is stumped. He has referred me to either a transmission shop, or a Chrysler dealer. After hearing my account of the problems over the phone, the head mechanic at the dealership suggested that it’s time for me to get a new car.
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I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus, and have been driving it for about 5 months. The other day, as I was driving, the speedometer stopped working. It did that one time before, but started back working. However, this time, it still is not working and I have no idea how fast/slow I am going. Often, my car has little glitches where you have to lock/unlock the door a certain way or it does not work right. Everybody jokes that my car has OCD! Also, once you crank the car, you have to turn the key back halfway or certain things don't work- like the clock, wipers, turn signals, etc. I don't know if this is related to the speedometer situation or not. The last time the speedometer stopped working, I had the AC on and a cassette tape in the deck; I was trying to hit the rewind button, but kind of accidentally pushed between fast-forward and rewind, and that is when the speedometer stopped working. I am not sure this is related. Do you know if my car has a sensor or a cable for the speedometer? Is this something that can be easily and inexpensively fixed?
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I have a 1997 Cirrus. The ABS light came on about 2 weeks ago -- this is after i drive about 30 yards. The brakes seem to be operation ok and when the light does come on there is no bell or chime sounds to indicate something is wrong. ALSO, the RPM gauge just started to not work. Occasionally it may operate correctly but most of the time it just sits on zero. What the fault or faults are?
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I started having problems with my '99 Cirrus last month, it would randomly stall while driving or while in idle. With no check engine light or any other tell tale signs of a problem. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how the entirety of the car's systems function, though I new I should check my fuel system. I wasn't getting any fuel to the engine whatsoever, so I replaced the fuel filter because when I got it off and looked at it it was clear it was bad. Then I put it all back together to try and run it and it continued to stall.
Thinking it must be the fuel pump at this point I dropped the fuel tank and replaced it. It ran for about 35 miles before the same problem started happening again. So I checked all the fuses, and relays and just to be safe replaced all the relays related to the fuel pump, and fuel system and i even replaced the auto shutdown relay. The car continued to have the same problem, so I did some research and found out it could be a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it even though it wasn't that dirty, and checked my air filter for how clean it was and it was clean. The car still continues to stall in idle and while driving.
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My 98 Cirrus (V6 automatic) is not starting. The battery is working fine and it lights up everything...the wipers, headlight, the turn signals etc.... But when I turn on the ignition...nothing. I hear a mild thud followed by a brief hissing sound when I turn the key from the 1 position to the 2 position (referring to a 0-1-2-ignition key positions)...like "thuh...sssssss." It seems it comes from the underside of the car. Then when I turn from the second key position to start the engine, I get no response at all. I tried putting the gear in park / N...but no difference.
The weird thing is, approx 15 min before I attempted to start the car, I had to drive the car across the parking lot. It ran fine at that time. Could it be a fried starter motor?
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I have a Chrysler Neon 2001 and due to the recent cold weather in Montreal i had issues starting it. The battery seems to be functioning properly but when i try to start it, there wont be any sound what so ever, also i found a broken plastic pipe which im not sure what its there for ( I have uploaded a photo of it).
Link to picture : [URL] ....
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Three times this winter, during or after a several day freeze, my car won't start without lots of gas peddle pumping. AAA tech said it was water in the gas and recommended HEET. I've used it with apparent success but wonder why I've never had this problem before in over 50 years of driving in the Seattle area.
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I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
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I have a 2000 Outback Limited with 133,000 miles. I bought the car used and it has had to have a lot of maintenance. Most recently new head gaskets and radiator. Last weekend while doing errands, the car would not start, after sitting for around 20 minutes. The battery is less than a year old and the radio, etc, worked. I had it towed to my Subaru mechanic who checked the battery, alternator and starter, but could find nothing wrong, The car started for him each time he tried. Today, I was driving home from work, stopped somewhere for around 10 mins. and when I tried to start the car, nothing. Not even a noise. I had someone give me a jump, but that did not start the car. I let the car sit for around 45 minutes and it started right up. What is wrong with this beast?
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I recently bought a Subaru Legacy 2000. When I first got it it started fine, however when I leave it sit for overnight or up to a week it doesn't like to start. It will click, and eventually anywhere from 5 minutes to a half an hour it will eventually start right up.
I replaced the battery and the connections after talking to a mechanic... And after both of these fixes it started just fine for a few days. But I am suspecting the starter. The only issue is once I have had the car going after the initial trouble it will fire off just fine for the rest of the day. Other than the starter could it be moisture in something? Like I said it only will do this when it sits over night or longer?
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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Title pretty much says it. When its COLD it surges while idling upon start up. It goes away once you start driving it and the engine warms up. Other than that it runs great. Its got about 235 K with a replacement motor that has about 100k. I've had it about a year. Great vehicle. Its a standard.
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I have a 2000 Chevy S10 V6 with 176,500 miles that won't start when weather is cold and damp or hot and humid. I've checked distributer cap, spark plug wires, ignition module, and replaced crankshaft position sensor because of a high resistance reading on the sensor (14.17 Megaohms). I've never had any fault codes. What else can I check before I decide to junk the truck.
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I am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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My 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
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My 2000 Maxima manual, only in hot wether after driving for 30-40 min. revolutions start rising by itself and can go very high, becomes impossible to drive,have to shot off the car. I have this problem for 10 years and dealer is saying that they never heard anything like that.
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