Chrysler - Mitsubishi - Lebaron :: 1994 - Oil Pressure Gauge Starts Very High
Jul 31, 2014
I have a 1994 Chrysler Lebaron. The issue I've been having is for the last two weeks, my oil pressure gauge starts very high(out of normal range), and stays there for a very long time. Whilst it's at the highest possible level, the engine starts to heat up, until the gauge goes into range. This all happens without the car moving. If I leave the car on for 30 minutes(without moving it) the gauge goes into normal range, and for the most part operates normally. I have disconnected the Compressor's belt, in order to be able to turn on the engine fan from inside the car. As long as I keep the fan on, the engine stays cool for the most part.
I have considered that it was sludge, as it would soften as the engine heats up, but I have done an engine flush(machine), and the issue continues.
So far every mechanic I take it too, acts like it's impossible for the oil pump to have any issues, and claims it's normal behavior, which it's not.
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Thought this would be a fairly straight forward fix of making sure that the transmission fluid was full with no air in it, as well as a few other things to try.
Well, I've run out of things I can reliably try right now. Replaced the output sensor on the transmission, filled the transmission fluid with the proper type, read error outputs. (boy was that odd, you have to turn the key three times in a certain way and it blinks codes out at you)
The error readouts point to an Oxygen sensor, and the speed sensor. The oxygen sensor I could care less about at the moment, as I can't really reliably drive the car in first gear. Once it shifts, then I'll fix that, otherwise its wasted money as I won't be driving anyways.
None of my local mechanics have a machine to read or program this thing by the way, so that is kind of out of the question.
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I wanted to no why my car has water on the spark plugs not a lot though couple drips on the threads and on the part u gap(numbers 3 and 5 both are side by side), the oil looks like a light chocolate shack, it also spills a lot of water out the exhaust pipe. sort of like its being sprayed out non stop. i haven't did a compression test but all plugs are removed I am thinking its a head gasket. And the rest of the spark plugs look good just numbers 3 and 5 were wet.
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I had a remanufactured 2.5 Liter engine installed in my '88 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible. The engine vibrates and starts and dies in the AM until it warms up. I also had the engine and transmission mounts replaced; it made the vibration worse, I can really feel it in the steering wheel.The two balance shafts have not been checked, in addition to that, what else should I check for to resolve this problem?
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I have a 1996 Chrysler LeBaron and when it idles it overheats so I did my research and I figured it could be the water pump I replace the water pump and during that process I had to disconnect the timing belt then put the water pump on and reinstall the timing belt when I put everything back together I thought I was done but it didn't start and I'm wondering if it's because the timing is off. I did not reset the timing nor move the camshaft how can I tell what's going on.
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I have 1988 Chrysler Lebaron. It dies after I first start it and now it is doing it any old time. If I tromp on the gas it sputters and keeps going. It is really bad at stop lights, stop signs or slowing down for corners. Also the ac is not cooling. The blower is fine, but no cool air coming from vents.
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1993 lebaron GTC... I just got the oil change, and the tec slip and the wrench touch the starter, positive and negative ends. I have power every where but no crank to start. I had a new backup starter and replace it figure that it was shot but after getting it tested its fine. I can hear the starter but i get no crank. Where do i look?
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92 lebarron conv. 4 cyld. non turbo
New cap, rotor, and plugs
Misses on 3 and 4.
When pull plug wires engine doesn't change. When pull 1 or 2 it dies. When put in gear it chugs and dies.
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I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
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I own a really nice original ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe with the 2.5 N/A, throttle body injection and 3 speed automatic. It has just over 100k miles. The car sits in the garage all the time and is not used during the winter months and is never used in the salt season. I do "try" to start it sometimes just to keep the battery up. The problem is when I want to start it, especially after sitting for a while, often it will crank and crank but won't start. It's acting like it has no gas. When I take the aircleaner lid off and dump a little gas in, it fires up just fine then runs perfect after that. Even after it has been used as a daily car after that, when I shut it off, sometimes it will start just fine, other times it won't, then I have to use the gas can again. It has a mind of it's own. When you think it will restart, sometimes it won't. I've been keeping a little gas can in the trunk in case it does happen at odd times. With the gas can, it will always restart. I've talked to a few shops about this, they have no idea what might do this. Naturally, when I brought it in to show it to them, it would ALWAYS restart for them. Getting rid of this car is not an option for me, I love the car, except for that part of it.
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My daughter has a 94 XLT with 4 liter OHV. This the first time I have noticed a vehicle to have both an oil light and a pressure gauge. Periodically the check oil light will come on, but the gauge shows very good pressure. The oil level is full. I'm not sure what to make of this. I know the engine was replaced with a rebuild but no idea how many miles are on it now. Oil looks fairly clean tho it is due for an oil change I think.
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My son has a 1985 lebaron and the brakes just suddenly stopped working. He has replaced the pads, rotors, calipers and bled the system but when you push the brake pedal it goes to the floor. the mechanic where is works is stumped - been like this for three days and they can't figure out what the problem is.
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I have an ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe in very good condition. The car has an overhead console which is digital. It shows the compass and outside temperature. The compass works fine, but the outside temperature is always way off, normally about 30-40 degrees higher than it should be. I was told that the "thermometer" for that is located somewhere behind the grille. I am unable to locate it and am unaware of what it looks like. Auto part stores in my area don't seem to have a listing for this part. Most of these cars were convertibles, so only the higher end coupes had this option, I'm told.
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I have a 1993 Chrysler Lebaron and the power steering on it just stopped working today. It was low on power steering fluid and I replaced the fluid but it still doesn't work. I can't find anything related on the Internet.
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Having an intermittent problem on my 2002 Chrysler Sebring LX (about 132,000 miles). Often I can drive around and everything is okay. However, it seems like every 11 days or so, the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark and toward the danger zone. Only once has it gotten all the way up to the red danger zone and illuminated the warning light, and that was the very first time. It was fortunate that this happened the exact moment I reached home and parked in my driveway.
When the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark, I've tried to turn on the heater to cool it down, but this doesn't work. The heater just blows cold air. So far I have been taking the following steps:
1) Stop driving and park the car for 10 minutes or more.
2) Fill the coolant tank under the hood with coolant. I'm putting in about half a gallon each time.
3) Continue driving.
After this process, the heater is again blowing warm air and the temperature gauge is staying at a safe level. It seems to persist for about 11 - 14 days then the cycle starts all over.
It happened last night following a drive of about 5 miles home from the gym. Since I had no more driving to do that day, I just parked it overnight to see if this was a fluke and if it would be necessary to add more coolant.
This morning I drove the same 5 miles. Temperature gauge stayed pretty low for about half the trip, but then rapidly shot up. I got to the gym before it reached the danger zone (it was probably about 3/4 of the way up). I parked for a little over an hour while I went inside to exercise. Then I again added half a gallon of coolant and drove home without problems.
The last time I had overheating issues, the coolant rapidly spilled out of the bottom and the overheating was not preventable. I got the radiator replaced. This was in October 2013. I've also tried some of that stop leak fluid. It didn't work, but I'm not so sure I used it correctly. I didn't flush the tank and I think I might have poured it in on a normal driving day (coolant pretty full).
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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Chrysler 1998 Lebaron. The door locks will run constantly, they go up and down when driving and when parked, the same with the lights...now finding that in the middle of the night the car alarm is going off for no reason...also finding that the dome light will not shut off
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I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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I have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
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Just had the tires rotated , then shop tech backs the X out of the shop, parks it and then hands me the keys. I hop in and turn the key , the truck turns over , but starts to shudder and buck, and fuel pressure gauge reads 0.
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