Chrysler - Ptcruiser :: Gas Seems To Be Bubbling Back Causing Nozzle To Click Off As If Tank Is Full When Pumping
Feb 7, 2014
I am having a problem with my 2005 PT Cruiser that has been going on for several months. Whenever I am pumping gas, the gas seems to be bubbling back causing the nozzle to click off as if the tank is full. I have taken my car to a mechanic but he said he didn't find anything wrong with it. It takes 15-20 minutes to fill up my gas tank because I practically have to dribble the gas into the tank.
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My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
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I have a 2000 echo that recently will not allow me to fill the gas tank unless I do it very slowly. Otherwise it continually trips the pump nozzle.
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2005 GX470 ... My Issue is that when I pump Gas ONLY in Calif it keeps stopping. I have tried all angles of the pump. I have tried holding back rubber on pump, but that will not work. This is something else. I have been to other states such as TX AZ NM & NV and this problem does not exist.
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My Jeep recently came up with a CEL after pumping gas sometime last week. It happened about an hour after so I did some research and they said one solution could be that my gas cap may be lose or needs replacement. I then removed and made sure the cap was secured properly. After about two days the CEL stopped showing up. I just took my Jeep to an AutoZone and was told that the reader was still detecting the issue.
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I have owned this car since she was brand new off the lot in September of 2000. 98% of the time I have had to pump the gas pedal to get her to turn over. When she was under warranty I kept bringing her into the dealership and they kept telling me they couldn't duplicate the problem. Finally a few months ago I had to have my head gasket replaced....basically a top end rebuild. I still have the problem. What this could be? We were maybe thinking faulty fuel injection system but it should have died by now I would think after 11 years.
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My son's wife has a PT Cruiser, she told me last night that it has a shimmy at 70 mph. What are the causes of this ?
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My PT has a vibration, I've replaced rear drums, rear hub assemblies, front brakes and front rotors and all four tires.The vibration is only while going 55 to 60 MPH each time I've replaced the different parts (rotated the tires and rear drums) the wobble seems to go away for about a few miles and then comes back!I'm going to replace the front hubs and bearings now, but why would the wobble change each time I changed I've changed all these parts around. Could it be a bent rim? or just the front bearings?
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I have a 2004 PT Cruiser with 111,000 miles on it. A summer or two ago, whenever it got hot out, the check engine light would start to come on. Usually, it didn't affect the car's driveability - but sometimes, it would cause the car to buck and/or stall, sometimes to the point of stalling completely out. Brought it into the shop again and again. Camshaft sensor. O2 sensor. Crankshaft sensor. Replaced. Checked. P0304 misfire code came up in diagnostics again and again. Re-wiring of camshaft sensor wires. And on and on. And yet again, intermittently, the check engine light would come back on and the whole thing would start all over again. Sometimes you'd drive it, stop somewhere, start it again, and the check engine light would be gone. Sometimes it would stay on for days. Weeks. Sometimes with no other driving symptoms - it just depends on how the car is feeling? I thought the problem was limited to the hot months of summer, but now it's the dead of January in Minnesota and it's happening again. Yesterday, it stalled out completely and I had to get it towed to the shop - decided to try a new shop, they said maybe the problem was that the old shop did a bad wiring job. OK. But then, got the car back, no check engine light on first drive, stopped somewhere for 5 minutes, get back in, start it again, check engine light back on. But at least the car started and didn't buck/stall. Now it's back in the shop, but I'm ready to give up.
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What is ABS code 18 2001 PT Cruiser???
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I drive a 2006 Accent. A few days ago the code 0496 popped up for evap system issues. The fuel tank is pressurized quite a bit and with the filler cap off you can hear air bubbling up through the fuel. Sounds like blowing air through a straw into a drink. It is constant and putting the cap back on it re-pressurizes quickly. I have never seen this before in any vehicle.
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1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse. 2.0L 5-speed. 195,000. When I complete my 33 mile trip home and shut off engine, I can hear air bubbling into the overflow tank from radiator. Temp gauge shows normal. Just had new water pump, thermostat, radiator flush and refill and new 16 lb radiator cap installed. Overflow tank fills up to near top (not running over) and when engine cools, the tank is back down to half way. I've checked water level in radiator when cool and it is full. Question: Is this normal? Don't think I've ever noticed or heard the bubbling sound before. The engine runs great and smoothly.
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I have a 2002 chrysler pt cruiser. For the past week when I start to crank it it will just click one or two times then crank. Today it won't start at all just clicking.
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I have an 05 pt cruiser that idles rough sporadically. Sometimes it idles smooth, sometimes it is rough but will calm down when i shift into gear, and sometimes it is rough when i let off the gas and come to a stop sign. When i first crank the car, the idle is rough and will act like it wants to cut out when i first back out of the driveway, but it clears up and drives better after getting gas. I have changed the plugs and wires, which did work, but there is something else still causing some problems. When at cruising speed, you can't detect any stutters or other problems. I looked at the vacuum lines and have a bottle of injector cleaner on 3 tanks of gas back to back with no apparent change. I did put a PCM on it a few years back, is it possible it has gone bad? The gas mileage also has seem to be suffering. I also checked the air filter as a possible problem, but it is very clean.
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I have a 2007 PT Cruiser that's just about to hit the 100,000-mile mark. My problem is when stopped, the car feels like it wants to stall, but only when the AC/Heater/Defrost is on. Also, when it starts to act up, the heater stops working, leaving only the fan to blow air around. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me turn off the heater or whatever I'm using when I come to a red light. It just started doing this and I just wanted to have a rough idea as to what it was before I took it to a mechanic.
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After running for a while traveling to and from the store, my temperature gauge on my 2005 PT cruiser rises to hot and the temperature light comes on. However,when I get out and raise the hood. The engine doesn't seem to be overly hot. No boiling or hissing sound and no steam coming from the engine.
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I drove the car to town this morning, and then to work without problems. I go to get in the car and the car has no electrical power what so ever. I am going to check the voltage and battery terminals, but is there a fuse that sends power to everything in the car, including lights, horn, etc? There is NO power at all.
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Recently my PT Cruiser was having trouble shifting into park so the car could not be started or the key could not be removed. I had to force it into park a few times and then something popped and broke. The car thinks it's in drive so it will no longer crank. I took a look under the hood and the shifter cable looks to be fine and connected properly but what I found under the center console seems to be the problem. The entire cable and plastic mechanism move freely. To me it seems as if the plastic piece holding the cable aligned is quite stuck. The metal rod looks like it's supposed to move inside the casing? Here are some photos of what we're dealing with.
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A/C works fine when moving. At idle, it doesn't work. Fan is not spinning. Is it definitely a bad fan or is it a possible fuse/switch/module? How difficult it would be for a novice to replace the fan?
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I have a 2002 Audi a6 Quattro 2.7t. Recently my fiancée filled up my gas tank and when he did this he continued to pump fuel into the tank even though the automatic shut off trigger had released. In doing so he said he filled it to the point that it was just about to spill out. The first 1/8 of a tank the car drove like normal. Then all of a sudden i very very briefly could smell an odor of rotten eggs. The following morning my car had loss of power to the point that i parked it. My fiancée was reading about how to fill the tank properly and when he did he went ahead and released the gas cap and at that point he said he heard a bubbling noise come from the tank. My car is drivable now but not up to par. It slightly sputters (bogged) at take off still. What else it could be ?
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Having trouble filling gas tank, the pump nozzle keeps cutting off. Have to fill by dribbling the fuel in until filled. What the problem might be?
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