Cicic - Honda :: 2004 - Battery Light And Car Stalling In Stop And Go Traffic
Oct 4, 2014
So my 2004 honda civic LX with 165k miles has had some battery issues, or so it seems. While driving the car has been "shutting down", headlights fail, dash lights fail, radio sound goes off, and sometimes the car stalls. Typically this is happening when in stop and go traffic. The battery light on the dash comes on and off during these moments of failure. These issues started a few months ago when the dash maintenance light came on. I brought the car to a mechanic to see if he knew the issue. We decided to test the alternator and it was fine but we replaced it anyway. The issue went away until recently when the maintenance light came on again and seems the problem is worsening this time around.
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I drive a 2004 Honda Civic. About a month ago, my car started to overheat. The next day, I took it into the shop,and they said the thermostat was sticking,and I had a small leak in the radiator. I got a new thermostat, radiator (they did not have anyone to repair), and flushed the system.
A few days later, the car started to overheat again, and quickly went down. We thought it was a fluke. A few days later, it did the same thing and we took it back to the shop. They said nothing was wrong and let the car run with the radiator cap off for a while in case there was a bubble. Since then, it has has started to overheat a few more times. So the, problem is not all the time, just every so often. Several parts have already been replaced, as noted.
What we have found in common is that each time it starts to overheat, we are in stop and go traffic. It has always been hot outside too (but it is summer). When we begin to move at a regular pace, the car temp goes down. I live in a city, so it is impossible not to get in stop and go traffic on a regular basis. Not everytime we are in stop and go traffic it does this, but since the repairs, it has never overheated while moving at a regular pace.
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So I've got a 2000 1.8T with an automatic trans that doesn't seem to want to stay on. The car was initially stalling out after getting up to temperature in stop and go traffic but now it's having problems all the time. It doesn't want to start and the only time it wants to run is if I'm on the highway. If I slow down below 20mph the car will stall out, if I go to start it the rpms will drop and it will stutter and stall out if I can get it started.
I've already replaced the diverter valve along with dropping in a K&N filter. I'm not sure what else it could be. I'd like to change out the N75 valve but I'm not sure where its located on this car.
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cavalier, which I purchased used Two years ago, and lately I've been having a problem with it. I live in the area where Temps rub pretty high here. Recently, with three digit weather, my car stalls when I'm in stop and go traffic. I would have to turn off the car and restart it. The car temp gauge in car doesn't show the car overheating. What is the possible cause of the car stalling?
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MY 2001, 6 cylinder, HONDA ACCORD (200,000K miles) has for a couple of years randomly stalled at traffic signals. It has always been for just a few seconds, the engine will turn over, all dashboard lights are on but it has taken up to about 30 seconds to finally fire. I didn't worry about it too much until last week when this happened only this time it wouldn't start. BIGGER problem was that I couldn't get the gear shift lever to shift from "Park" to "Neutral", which meant the car was stuck sitting in the middle of the road and several burly men couldn't budge it out of the way of traffic. After about 20 minutes, the car started and drove away like a dream. Had mechanic check it out - ran perfectly. Fast forward three days, I drive 3.5 hours seamlessly stop a couple of times with the car sitting a max of 10 minutes - no problem - stop third time with engine off, in park for only about a minute and the same situation, dash lights on, stuck in park, engine turns over, won't start. Had lunch, an hour or so later it starts. Drive about five miles & turn up a steep grade on paved, residential road at about 25mph and the engine shuts off without any coughing, stuttering - just shuts off and I coast to the curb. Starts up in just a few seconds and has been running beautifully since, driving me and the mechanic nuts.
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Why my Camry is stalling. Here is the situation: yesterday I had my battery disconnected for several hours while removing the seats from my vehicle so I could clean the carpet. When I put everything back together and reconnected the battery the car started up and ran without any problem. I then went out to run some errands and the car stalled while stopped at a stop sign. I put the car in park and it started right back up. Any time I come to a stop the engine idles to slowly.
I had this same issue a couple of years ago and a technician at my Toyota dealership said there was a sensor that needed to "learn" my driving habits (like how fast or slow to idle). The guy was correct and after a few days of dealing with stalling at red lights I have had no issues.
So I would like to know what this sensor is called and if this whole thing sounds right. To me it seems like a problem that the vehicle would want to stall. I could see myself getting rear ended by someone assuming I am going to make a turn when I am stalled.
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I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
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I have been driving my new 2011 prius for a week now and have noticed that in stop and go traffic I occasionally get down to three bars before the engine kicks in. Is this normal?
Also today I was in a traffic jam for a half hour and got to 2 bars a few times(lots of stop and go). Is this normal also? When driving on the freeway the bars are always 6-8. There are no colors on the bars, just white.
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I got a couple work trucks both 2010's with around 20k miles on them. Mine just cut off on me today while sitting at a traffic light. I wasn't even paying attention till the alarm started dinging at me. The other truck stalled on my employee while turning in to park. The weird thing is I have two truck doing the same thing what are the odds.
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My 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
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2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
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I have a 99 Mazda 626 (automatic) and in the past year it has stalled out on 3 separate occasions after coming to a stop at a stoplight. The car sputters off, the wheel locks and it just dies. After this happens the car won't click over to start. However, after letting it sit for several hours, the car will start up again without any problem like nothing was wrong.
I even had the car towed to a mechanic after one of these instances. The car was towed to the shop on a Saturday and on Monday when the mechanic went to see what was wrong, the car started up fine and showed no signs of an issue. I have always been able to start it up without a problem on a day to day basis. (The car also just recently got a lot louder -- I found a sizable hole in the B pipe--so I don't think the noise is related. Anyway, I just don't want to stall out in traffic again so is it time to buy a new fuel pump or could a smaller fix take care of the problem?
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My daughter has a 1996 Saturn SL with something over 100K miles on it. It runs generally well, although using a quart of oil every thousand miles or so. It passes the smog check required for her registration. It's had new spark plugs within the recommended period.
Recently she went on a road trip, and hit stop-and-go traffic for a couple of hours in one large city; it being January in a warm climate, the weather that day was presumably neither very hot nor cold. The Check Engine light came on. Fortunately she had the time to take it to a mechanic recommended by a friend local to the area, who pronounced the engine OK. She proceeded without incident for the rest of her thousand mile trip.
Sounds to me like the emissions crossed some threshold beyond "marginal" during the lengthy idling and running at low speed. Question: if we wanted to avoid such a condition, what kind of repair would be recommended.
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Whenever my 2004 Honda Pilot gets stuck in traffic, I have to switch it into a lower gear in order to resume forward. Automatic transmission. It's a rebuilt trans that has 60K on it. Transmission fluids at right levels and recently flushed. The car mileage is 198K. I don't have the issue with normal highway and local driving. It is only when I am stuck in traffic.
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1991 Honda Civic, automatic transmission, the car/steering wheel shake badly when the car stops at the red light. It only happens when brake pedal is pressed AND in D gear. If shift from D to N, the shake disappears. As soon as the traffic light turns green and the car starts to accelerate, the shake disappears. Four spark plugs were replaced, no effect at all.
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I've read the throttle lag posts with interest. Ours only lags when performing a "California" stop where you go from the brake to the gas and look for an instant pick up. Seem to have about a second of delay before anything happens. Of course this causes all sorts of unnecessary lurching and I don't like it. Does everyone else experience this as part of their throttle lag problem?
2004 V8 Touareg
2003 GTi 1.8t
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OK, 05 v8 4.6l
I am having very random overheating for last few weeks. Started randomly one day in stop n go traffic. Thought maybe struck tstat so replaced it. Same thing...replaced water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir cap since then. During all those replacement I flushed system with garden hose. Burped system to best of my knowledge. Still overheats randomly. Seems to happen every day now at hot times (100*). I drive around all day for work so been watching it closely. Temp gun runs 190* on tstat housing at operating temp. When it was rising up in temp I pulled over and temp gun read 200 ish.... it is in fact getting hot. Any freaking clues? Oh and have pressure tested good....combustion test good...
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When stopping on traffic light, my Slip Indicator is on and flashing...
The Owner's Manual says: If the vehicle is in danger of slipping or rolling backward when starting on an incline, or if any of the drive wheels spins, the slip indicator light flashes to indicate that the VSC/TRAC systems are operating.
Luckily, it only happened once... otherwise, I'll roll back to the dealership in the very first day I picked up my car...
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I have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
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My wife drives a 2002 civic (mostly around town). when the car is at running temp.with the heater on and she gets top a stop sign or red traffic light, the heater starts to blow out cold/colder air. We took the car to a dealer and asked them to flush/fill the radiator and fix the problem. Well they flushed/filled the radiator and said "Yup, it still does it. Would you like us to diagnose the problem more for a minimum of 1 hour labor cost?" What could be the problem with the reduction in heat?
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I was driving my trusty 2002 152K miles, and came into a very long and very slow traffic jam on the side of a mountain. After about two hours of mostly stop and very little go, my CEL light came on. I am also seeing the "general fault" symbol, but it should be noted that my PS symbol has been showing for about a year because my PS died and I just didn't fix it.
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