Civic - Honda :: 1996 - Engine Bog Down When A/C On?
Jul 25, 2015
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Started happening 3 days ago. This only occurs when the car is idle and the A/C is on. It does not kill the engine but makes it bog down during this. The cycle is that it dies this and then runs smooth for 30 seconds before starting again. Does not happen when in gear (that im aware of) When traveling in neighborhoods the air blows cool, main roads cold, highway ice cold. Idle it blows warm. I will be able to test the coolant levels with a friends gauge tomorrow. What is causing this.
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My knucklehead brother, re-living the past, borrowed my '96 Civic and sped off to a heavy metal concert - Mega-Death (may be prophetic here). His head was in a blissful dungeon. It was a 55 F day, near sundown, he'd gone 20 miles. He was going up a fairly steep hill and the engine started pinging loudly (something it's never done before), then he noticed the temp. gauge pegged. Instead of stopping immediately and looking under the hood where he would have found no water in the radiator, he "fixed" the problem on the fly by turning on the heater. The car continued to ping and run poorly. He continued to drive another mile up hill (about 2 minutes more) whence he stopped the car and shut off the engine, opened the hood, found ZERO water in the radiator (no steam). I have not tried to start the car since - had it towed. What should I do before trying to start it (besides adding coolant)? What should I do to find out if lasting engine damage was done? The engine ran like new prior to this - has 180k miles. Stevie1959 P.S: How much is he to blame for this - he's a 50 year old, experienced driver, amateur mechanic? - he tells me I gave him a car with no coolant in it (Not true!, I drove it that very day, no puddles of coolant anywhere).
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Driving on highway, check engine light goes on, speedometer drops from 60 to 0 but nothing else happens. Come to a stoplight and engine light stays on and speedometer works again. Any diagnostics?
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The check engine light is on in my 1996 Honda Civic. The code for it is P1382, which is supposed to be either a misfire or the ignition control system. It runs fine most of the time, but intermittently cuts out while I am driving sometimes. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and the check engine light actually went off after replacing the fuel filter, but came back on the second time I drove the car. The distributer was replaced not quite a year ago with a reman distributor.
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I just bought a 96 civic. The seller said he used the ac last year, after they charged it, with no problems. The ac was not cold now. I have the filling cable that only goes on the low pressure side. We turned the car and the ac on. I noticed that he had been driving the car with the ac turned on even though it was not cold. I connected the hose and it read 0 psi. It began to fill and you could tell it took some Freon nicely, maybe an ounce or 2, then, the compressor behaved like it was working real hard, the engine began working hard, the belt squealed for a minute, then stopped, the compressor began to smoke. The smoke was coming from between the compressor housing and the pulley. It smelled like the “I just burnt up my engine smell”, shortly after I began filling the low pressure read in the yellow range of the gauge. It did take some Freon in the normal range. I would like to mention that last summer I had used the pag 100 oil charge which some had been sitting in the fill hose all winter, don’t know if this makes a difference but I thought I should mention it
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My 96 civic stalls when i put in drive sometimes, problem comes go's, was told tps sensor or trans control solenoid ?
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I have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
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My 1996 honda civic cannot handle the heat. Every time the weather gets warm it freaks out when stuck in traffic for any extended period of time. It generally will start to rev while stopped, sometimes will jerk forward, and once continued to rev in park with my foot completely off the gas, checking the gas and the break pedals numerous times to make sure not stuck, etc., for about 2 minutes. Another time it locked the steering wheel and would not release. This really only happens when it's warm outside. The car does not have air conditioning, if that makes any difference. We've brought it to two mechanics and they both said car looks great. What could be going on?
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'96 civic 180k miles. Just had timing belt replaced but has been clicking when cold so mechanic checked & adjusted valves. Still clicks on startup until warm, less than 5 minutes, as it has for the last year or more. What could be the problem?
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Now with the new clutch installed, it makes a terrible noise with my foot off of the clutch in neutral. I can't get into any gears; it'll just grind gears.
Here is a video of the noise. Again the noise only occurs with my foot off of the clutch pedal. Quiet with my foot on the clutch. I can't get into any gears.
1996 Honda Civic
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96 civic 120K miles, stock, automatic.
In March I was running low on fuel, maybe 1 gallon left in the tank. It took a few cranks and on the last try i gave it a little gas and it started, albeit very rocky for about 1 minute of driving, filled up immediately and 2 freeway miles later, no real issues. I live in LA so very low ambient temperature is not a problem.
April through May, starting was a little rocky, it was inconsistently rocky too, sometimes there was no problem. Usually it's weak, stuttering, sometimes just cranking but I seem to get it to start. I stopped giving the pedal gas because I read that's bad (I own a vintage bike, so it's news to me). I don't drive that far and figured I'd try some Seafoam and some freeway miles would clean out any debris. Worked for that tank a bit for the next tank before the problem came back.
Still getting the rough starts, but now when I give the car gas as I pull out sometimes it doesn't accelerate for 15-30 seconds, maybe 25 yards then it drive like normal. No dying at all but getting worse with starting up.
I've tried turning the key (not turning the engine over) 5 times and cranking on the 6th and it seems to work. I thought maybe it's the fuel pump or fuel filter but read it could be an ignition coil/ spark plug/ spark plug wire issue. Two different ball games.
My MPG is not really droppingI had a new fuel filter put in in February as routine maintenance (thing was on so tight had to bring it to a shop so no rookie mistakes there). Timing belt &water pump replaced 6,000 miles ago
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Ive had both the piston rings and head gasket replaced on my 96 civic. This isn't for high end upgrades or anything just because i need to pass smog and both needed replaced. I am being told that once i get my car i should drive slow for 100 miles before i take it to smog. Ive read many different opinions on seating the rings but all are for people upgrading their car. I am sure I just got normal replacements.
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My husband was just returning from a long car trip in our 1996 Honda Civic when the engine seemed to downshift, start revving, there was a clicking sound, and so he put it in neutral and pulled off to the side of the road. As he was pulling off, there was a loud popping sound, clicking continued, and the car died. He could restart it, still clicking, seemed like it was running in a really low gear. Had it towed to a CarTalk recommended auto repair shop which put him about 2.5 hours from home. The garage called us and said that the car had almost no oil in it and it was likely that the engine was starting to seize and pretty much done for.
So regarding the low oil...we got an oil change right before the trip, so we were not quite 1500 miles, and three days into the oil change. The oil light never came on (until the car stalled and ALL the lights came on.) or my husband obviously would have stopped sooner. The garage is now putting the car up and trying to figure out where all the oil went. They put in over three quarts to fill it up.
My question...could the car have gone for 1500 miles with the old oil drained and no new oil added? We're talking pretty intense freeway driving here. Why didn't the oil light go on? Could the oil change place have done or neglected to do something that precipitated the demise of our Civic's engine? I'll update this post when I hear back from the garage.
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,My wife drives a 96 Civic DX Hatchback, 5 Speed. It has about 160,000 miles on it, and she only drives it to work and back (a 15 minute drive via the interstate).
Just yesterday, she told me that the clutch feels 'looser' than normal, for lack of a better term. When it's first started, it's hard for her to get it into first and/or reverse, but once driving, she says the shifting is fine. When she's driving at highway speeds in 5th for a while, then has to get off at her exit, she said it's hard for her to get it back into 1st gear. She says she feels like she has to push the clutch harder than normal to get it back into 1st gear.
I don't know much about manual transmissions, and am hoping for some insight into what the problem(s) may be?
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So my honda 95 civic 1.5 engine is stalling out I think that it is my transmission so Im going to check that out in the morning my question is how much do I put in I watched a video on how to do it, do I need to put 3 quarts of the fluid in it or can I sneak by with just 2 quarts.
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I have a 2000 Honda Civic, manual transmission with 91,000 miles. I have a rattle coming from the engine, that was there before and after the timing belt was changed. I just notice it more now after the timing belt was changed. The rattle sounds like a marble or nutin a metal container(cylinder?). I don't hear it with just revving the engine, only when the car is in gear...put a load on the engine. It increases in speed as the engine speed increases and is harder to hear or it disappears as the load on the engine decreases. It is NOT tiny like aa heat shield. Could this have something to do with the pistons in the engine, the motor mounts, or something else?
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I have replaced the computer in a Honda Civic twice. The first time the car was acting like it wasn't getting power;the engine would rev when the gas pedal was pressed but the car would not go! so the computer was replaced, and two weeks later,t he same thing happened. They said it was a short and would not replace the computer-it was our problem. Finally, they agreed to replace the part. Got the car back, fixed a ouple of othere things and now, two weeks later, the same thing is happening. Car acts like it's not getting any power, and this time the check iengine light came on. The car has a new altenator, new battery, and the after-factory radio has been removed..
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 145000 miles. My mechanic recently completed a coolant flush on my vehicle and when I went to pick it up said that the radiator sealant was affected by the flush so I should bring the car back in a week to have them check it. On my way home the engine was steaming and continued to that week. When I brought the car back they said it looks like it's sealant again but I may need to buy a new radiator soon. The engine still occasionally has steam coming off of it and another mechanic says I need a new radiator ASAP. I don't know much about cars (obviously) so I am wondering if this is a normal occurrence? Is this something I should pay for if the mechanic damaged the sealant when they completed the flush?
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I am at my wits' end with my 98 Honda Civic LX. The problem starts around late summer of last year. It is sporadic, so I didn't quite pay attention until one day the engine died on the highway after I picked up the kids at the school. It didn't make any sound nor giving any warnings, just suddenly died. After that highway episode, it seems like it just taken its own fancy schedule as far as when to die, so to say. In a given day, it could 4 episodes in a day. Then it runs perfectly for some weeks then it starts again and went away again.
It just quietly dies while being driven. I had to turn it completely off, wait for some moment and try to turn it on again. Sometimes it just turns on again without me being frustrated and there were moments when I had to do several attempts. Once I heard clicking sound before the engine died, only once, the rest makes no sound at all. No lights are on.
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Honda Civic LX 1999 - Engine shuts down in hot weather when the sun has been beating down on it for a while>it can happen as I am backing out of the parkway or as I am driving in the first 1-10 minutes ?
I went to the dealer and the vin number of the car shows to recalls have not diagnosed it yet but thinking about it...
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I had an engine running problem recently with my 92 Honda Civic. I felt the car stalling last Sunday when it tried to shift beyond 25 mph. I had to step on the pedal harder to get it to move over 35 mph, then I felt the gear shift and then it ran all right after it reached 35 mph. However, it happened about 80% of time when it had to stop at a traffic light and go during the last couple days. When I pushed the gas pedal, I could hear the engine stall and it slowly moved (took about 40 seconds) from 25 to 35. The problem seems getting worse today. I checked the transmission fluid and it is low, about 1/3 on the dipstick. I checked the ignition wire and it seemed connected fine. I recall that I had the similar problem about 4 years ago. I was told the # 2 spark plug well was filling with oil causing the ignition wire to short out. They replaced the value cover gasket, spark plugs and ignition wires and charged me around three hundred bucks. Would this be the same issue again? Or it is something else?
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