Civic - Honda :: 2001 - Belt Squeal In Lower Gears / RPMs
Jan 17, 2011
I've got a 2001 Honda Civic, automatic, that has a nice (what I think) belt squeal going. It seems to happen when it's wet/cold, in the lower gears/RPMs, when the defroster and/or rear defroster are on. SOMETIMES it will stop when I turn off the defrosters. If it persists I can make it stop by quickly putting it in park (at a light or stop sign) and right back into D or if moving gunning it for a few seconds. Occasionally I do get a hot rubber smell (like a burning vacuum belt) coming through as I accelerate. So as someone with no real car knowledge, does this sound like a belt issue that I can take care or myself (i.e. belt tensioner and a gauge) or should I just leave it to the pros?
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My 2001Honda Civic EX (manual) has only about 46,000 miles on the clock and runs very well. My mechanic says I should consider replacing the timing belt (the manual suggests after seven years). I plan on keeping the car for many more years -- should I replace the belt now? How devastating is it if the belt breaks while driving?
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I have a 2000 Honda civic ex. A couple months ago while driving I heard a squeal and my AC was blowing hot. I just changed out my expansion valve, drier and compressor but when I hooked up my gauge my low side wouldn't build pressure and my high sat like 150. Finally the low side got to 20 and high about 200. I over filled trying to get low side right and when I did get it to 40-50 my high side would be 300 but it wouldn't hold. I emptied the system but 150 psi is somewhere in the high side and won't get out.
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I drive a 1991 Honda Accord. A few months ago I began to notice that the engine compartment would squeal when I started it on occasion. I went under the hood and determined that both the alternator and steering pump belts could do to be tightened and did just that. That solved the problem.
A few weeks later they begin to squeal again. I apply some belt conditioner and it usually goes away for that particular trip, but the squeal will come back upon the next time I start the car.
I can't tell which belt the squeal is coming from, as they are practically right on top of one another.
Over the past month or so, the squeal has gotten progressively worse. It will squeal at startup until I begin to reach approx 2k RPMs. If I go to idle during driving, it will (maybe 40% of the time) drop down to below 500 RPMs and squeal, and on even fewer occasions the car will sputter and stall out (MAYBE once per day).
The belts appear to have little give now, but I didn't want to OVER tighten them. They also show no apparent signs of wear or glazing. With the winter weather coming, I'm attempting to resolve this as quickly (and cheaply) as possible, so that I'm not banging around under the hood wearing a parka.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic coupe (EX) that makes a loud squeal. It starts when I just get going in the car, maybe two or three minutes into the drive. The squeal seems to come from the engine, and lasts for 15 to 30 seconds, before abruptly stopping. I seem to think its a belt, but not sure why its doing it or how to stop it.
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We have a 99 Honda Civic. Our clutch is sticking in all gears and won't go into 5th gear at all. There is no resistance when I push down on the clutch pedal.
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I have a 1999 Honda Civic DX hatchback with a 5-gear manual transmission that I have been driving since the day it left the dealership. This morning, on my way to work, I was shifting from third gear to fourth gear and the car stalled. This has happened three times in the last month or so. I recently had my transmission fluid flushed. I'm 95 percent sure this started after the transmission fluid was flushed.
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I drive a 1998 honda civic 5 speed manual transmission. The transmission is loud in all gears(including reverse) nearly all the time. It is not exactly a grinding sound, but that is as close as I can describe it. When taking off from a stop, sometimes it won't initially make the sound, but around 15-20 mph it will start to make the sound in 1st or 2nd gear. Once the sound starts, it won't go away. I can't link the time when it starts making the noise to any particular RPM.
I've hard the car for 5 years and 50,000 miles and it's made this noise the whole time I've had it. It is annoying more than anything (shifts smoothly, clutch not slipping). Someone who looked at my car shrugged his shoulders and said "when the clutch goes, put in a whole new transmission, that will probably fix it".
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2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
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She has an old Honda Civic wagon - circa 1987 or so. Recently, the driver's seat belt has been sticking such that it will not pull out. I managed to get it to release by giving it a really good hard yank, and we've clipped it temporarily to prevent it from retracting all the way when she is not wearing it. She can remove the clip and use it when she drives, atleast for now.
But I have a couple of questions: is the seatbelt still safe to use - in other words will it still work if she's in an accident? Also, if it is safe, is there any way to easily see the retractor mechanism to figure out what is happening? It seems to be hanging up on that little "button" on the belt - not sure what purpose that little dot serves?.
Additional info : car has about 120K miles on it, and has never been in an accident - she's the original owner. The seatbelt itself, for those who have not sen this model, is attached to the door. The top buckle is in a fixed position - it does not move. The movement of the belt, bottom and top, seems to come from inside of the door.
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Okay so let me start off my saying I purchased this car salvaged 5 yrs ago and have been doing extensive repairs on the car, new engine, suspension the works. But started having this knocking sound near my timing belt/water pump. I went into a shop and they said it was the ac compressor and it was going to cost 800 to fix, I said no because it seemed to high for a job like that and I called up my mechanic from back home (NY, I'm working down in NC). He said if the sound gets louder cut the ac/power steering belt since I don't really need it because winters coming up. I cut the belt, the sound is still there. The sound is really loud when I first start it but dies down when the engine is warm and unnoticeable on the highway. Just a side note, the ac belt has been squealing if the ac is turned on/if it's raining out also I am do for a timing belt/water pump change. I have done regular maintenance on this car, every 3500 miles with synthetic oil (spoiling the engine). I really hope I can drive it back up to NY to get it fixed by my mechanic.
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The seat-belts in my 1998 Honda Civic Si (coupe) are slow to retract when unbuckled. Usually end up making them along by pushing the belts up into the slot. Any way to juice the re-tractor mechanism without major expenses...
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Thinking of buying a new civic with mt. One annoying thing is many mt rev higher at speed than automatics.
Tried to find out online how high civic revs, couldn't find it though.
I'm thinking anything over 2500 is going to sound whiny on a long trip.
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My 03 civic will drive fine when the engine is cool. But after getting off the highway, or running it at higher speeds, when I put it in gear, any gear, it will start choking and bucking like its running out of gas. Once I get it above about 2000 rpms, the choking stops. The read out said it was the egr valve at first, we had it cleaned, but it didn't fix it. The readout now says recirculation insufficient or something like that. I'm wondering how serious this is, and if I should be driving it.
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Been having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
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RPM's will not get above 2000, in 1st and 2nd gear. No power....
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My 1998 Honda Civic DX's RPMs are fluctuating during idle. I start the car and it is normal for about two seconds. I am assuming around 800 rpms (I don't have a tachometer). Then it jumps drastically higher, then lower, then higher, etc. Earlier tonight I replaced the throttle body gasket, replaced the spark plug wires, and cleaned the fuel injector cleaners. I took off several things in the process. I think the problem originates from taking apart the throttle body - not the other replaced parts. I have a manual 2-door 1998 Honda Civic DX with a 1.6L engine (D16Y7 engine to be exact).
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I just changed the engine in my 96 Honda civic, 1.6 base model. The change over went well and had no problems. When I have the car idle and it gets up to temp, the RPM's go from 2000 down to 500 then jumps to 2000 then down 500 again. When I put it into gear, drive or reverse, it stops jumping. What did I do wrong?
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My car has been having idling issues for about a year now. While idling the RPMs oscillate between 1 krpm and almost 0, with a frequency of about one oscillation per second. That got worse over time, and it started dying while idling too. I ignored the problem because it wasn't that bad, until a few weeks ago it died about 7 times on a 2 mile trip. (I developed a technique of using my right foot to press the gas and the brake simultaneously so I could come to a stop while keeping the engine going. But that only gets you so far.) I took it to a garage, they said I probably need a new IACV. Instead of having them do it, I just bought one and put it in myself. I'm not an experienced mechanic, but this seemed fairly easy; I'm pretty sure I didn't screw it up.
So, now it's displaying almost the exact same symptoms. It's not oscillating like it was before, but it's still dying pretty frequently, only on idle. I'd like to know if there's anything else I can try before I take it back to the shop.
A little more information about my car:- Replaced the motor about a year and half ago, put a few thousand miles since then. I don't know what other parts were replaced as part of the motor, but probably not many considering what I've had to replace. - Since the motor replacement, I've had the following replaced: rear main seal, clutch, distributor, distributor again, and water pump- The odometer reads 223k miles, but I don't know how many miles the new motor has. - 1990 Honda Civic LX 1.5L
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I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?
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,My '98 Honda Civic EX (manual 5-speed) is currently at 200,000 miles and makes a gargling/metallic rattling noise when I accelerate from low RPMs or whenever I'm climbing a hill. The noise sounds as if loose change is rattling around somewhere in the engine. I started noticing this a few years ago, when it was very slight and it only happened in second gear as I climbed a steep hill.
Over time, it started happening in third and fourth gear, and now it is in all gears when climbing a hill or when accelerating quickly on level ground. I also notice a lack of power when this noise is occurring. In the past, if I let off the accelerator just a little bit, or if I greatly increased on the gas, the noise would disappear. Now, increasing on the gas makes the sound worse.
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