Civic - Honda :: 2003 - When Warming Up No Power?
Jan 5, 2013
I have an 03 civic which has recently exhibiting rather inconvenient power loss during warm up.
It seems to be worse when it's below 35 F out... The car starts just fine and I can generally drive several blocks just fine as well. Then for no apparent reason, the engine loses basically all power. It doesn't stall, but there is basically no power. When I pull over, the idle falls to ~400-500 RPM. Pumping the gas increases the RPM slightly, but again, there is no power.
Then as quickly as it began, the problem disappears; the engine returns to normal idle/power. This never reoccurs if the engine is kept warm. However, if the car sits for a few hours, the problem happens again. I would estimate the power loss occurs for ~30 seconds. The check engine light does not turn on before, during or after these episodes. It's almost like the choke is sticking.
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My wife was driving our 2003 Honda Civic hybrid (125,000 miles) and the electronic power steering went out. She managed to get it parked, called me, and when I arrived everything seemed to work fine. (She said the yellow EPS light came on, but she didn't know what that meant.) I drove it for a while and had no problems. A few days later my daughter was driving and the entire car shut down. I jump started it and everything worked OK, but I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis. They could find nothing wrong (no codes). However, the next day the car once again would not start I replaced the 'starter' battery (the lithium-ion man battery pack had actually been replaced at around 79,000 miles--right before the expiration of the warranty!).
Now it seems fine, but my wife and daughter refuse to drive it, and I'm not sure if the problem is fixed. Here are my questions:1. Since this is a hybrid, once the car is running a failure of the 'starter' batter should have no effect on the EPS, or anything else, right? It all runs off the main lithium-ion battery pack. However, replacing the 'starter' battery seems to have solved the problem--or at least a dead 'starter' batter is temporally (if not causally?) connected with the other failures. This might be just a coincidence, since seems odd to have the 'starter' battery part of the larger electrical set-up. The dealership had no clue and I can't figure it out.2.
The first time just the EPS went out, but the second time the entire car shut down. This doesn't make much sense--especially since the dealer couldn't pull any codes. The car's auto-stop shuts the engine off all the time at speeds below 10 mph (this is a semi-hybrid), so why the total shut down?3. Why didn't the dealership tell me the 'starter' battery needed replacement? I've checked my records, and it seems to be the one that came with the car in 2003 (actually fall 2002). Should I give up?
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord that I bought used two years ago. Lately, when it rains heavily, the battery light on the dash turns on and the power steering shuts off. I've had to pull over a couple of times. The problem only happens when I drive over 20 mph, solves itself within a minute after I stop, and never happens when it's dry outside. I think the problem has to do with splash from water on the road. What's going on, and how I can fix it? It's pretty dangerous.
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Having issues for a couple days now. Starting with the last two weeks while driving, the water in fuel, wait to start, and check engine lights would flash on. It would resume with more fuel as if nothing happened. Twice on separate days there was enough water that it shut it down in the middle of driving and it would have to be parked then restarted. One morning went out to start the truck, was inside for about 10 minutes and heard the truck shut off. Went out to see if it would restart and there was no wait to start light. Fuses have been checked and none are blown. Been shutting off like this for a couple days while trying to warm up, so it hasn't been driven because it hasn't ran long enough. Yes it's plugged in because of the cold.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
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I have noticed thru the cold months after I start my 2001 F250 7.3L 4X4 after it sits about a minute "warming up" that it goes into a high idle. The high idle will stop once I press the brakes. Is this normal?
I think this is a unrelated issue, but just started over the weekend. Was riding home, and pressed my brakes and the pedal moved almost to the floor. Not normal conditions for my truck. Usually the pedal is very stiff. I have noticed that my power steering pump has had a hum for months. I changed the fluid (ATF Mercon) within the last 6k miles and that calmed it down a bit.
After the pedal went to the floor, the hum seemed to quieten down even more. The power steering still works and the reservoir has adequate fluid and so does the brake fluid reservoir. I haven't noticed any leaks around the truck. I'm going to bleed the brake in an hour or so. The brakes pedal seems stiff when I press it after the high idle, but then it gets soft after a pump or two.
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I hear a whoosh whoosh whoosh sound coming from the exhaust when its warming up in the morning. What is happening?
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2003 Civic EX ... I read some of the past questions on this topic, but not sure where to start.
-AC blows warm air.
-AC light comes on as it should (green)
-Underhood Fuses are fine
-Refilled Antifreeze a few days ago, but still blows warm.
-Turned on the AC, lifted the hood and did not see the two large fans blowing. (Not sure if that has to do with AC or just cooling the engine).
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I have a 2000 Honda Civic Ex automatic 225k miles on it. Recently replaced spark plug and spark plug wires. Just had an oil change and an inspection done; they found an oil leak in the oil pan (oil pan cover gasket needs replaced). I have a severe lack in power, meaning it doesn't have the get-up-n-go it should. Doesn't shift until it hits 3.5 rpms, idles pretty loud, and noticed earlier today that there is a rattling that seems to be coming from front drivers side(could of been the road, adding it in for good measure) but that didn't happen till i hit 65. The coolant tank has a black grime in it, and from what i understand that's from deteriorating hoses(?). My question is this: What could be causing this loss of power?
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I have a 2003 Civic EX with 160K miles. The car runs great but it will sometimes over heat in traffic. It does not always overheat so it so the two mechanics I have taken it too have been unable to duplicate. I have had he thermostat changed and the relay to the cooling fan. I also changed the radiator cap. Other facts.
The heater has been very slow to heat up even when letting the car run for 15 minutes in the winter. It will heat up only once on the highway. This started at about the same time as the overheating.
It has never overheated on the highway even with 100 degree weather and the AC blasting.
Turning on the air will most of the time lower the temp.
Today after traveling 30 minutes I came to a stop and it overheated(temp gage on H). I tried to turn on the heater to attempt to cool it down and it blew cold air for about 3 minutes and never warmed. I then pulled into a lot andneither cooling fan was running. I did not have the ac on as I am thinking the fact that the heater is so slow might be a clue to the problem.
It would appear it could be something with the cooling fan but neither mechanic thought it was that as they couldn't duplicate the problem.
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Found out today that my third ignition coil is bad, it's a Honda civic 03' my question is, do I have to buy a new ignition coil. I had a clerk tell me I could switch the coils and it would run fine? Is this right? could I just switch the ignition coil with another ignition coil? This doesn't sound right. Well If I do buy new one which would be the third ignition coil? is it counted from left to right or right to left? Are there any telltale signs of a bad ignition coil on sight?
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My 03 civic will drive fine when the engine is cool. But after getting off the highway, or running it at higher speeds, when I put it in gear, any gear, it will start choking and bucking like its running out of gas. Once I get it above about 2000 rpms, the choking stops. The read out said it was the egr valve at first, we had it cleaned, but it didn't fix it. The readout now says recirculation insufficient or something like that. I'm wondering how serious this is, and if I should be driving it.
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About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2003 Honda Civic EX Coupe, automatic transmission with 131,000 on it. I took it to my mechanic before purchasing it and he said it looked good. The test drive didn't reveal any problems. A few days into owning it, however, I noticed this screeching noise but it didn't happen all the time. When it happened, I was always taking off from an intersection or pulling out of a parking lot - never when I was just driving down the road or on startup. The mechanic couldn't get the noise to happen but inspected the belts and said they looked new and were tight enough. This continued happening intermittently and sometimes I would even notice a slight hesitation in the car on takeoff. I went back to my regular mechanic with no success and also took it to another mechanic who tightened up the power steering belt a bit - still does it. None of the mechanics hear the noise when they drive it because it is so intermittent. I will add that the noise only happens with the AC on - a further inspection revealed the pulleys to be ok. What in the world is this noise and is it something that could leave me stranded? Everything I read about screeching is belt and pulley related but that doesn't seem to be my problem.
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The malfunction indicator lamp has been on in my '03 Honda Civic LX for some time now. The car shakes and has trouble accelerating, but not all the time. This usually occurs when the car is stopped, perhaps at a stoplight, in drive. The malfunction indicator lamp blinks when this happens. I brought it to have the codes read, and these came up; P0303 (this happened twice in one reading), P0420, and P0135.
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I have a 2003 civic (automatic) with 72000 miles on it. It recently began hesitating from a cold start. It will hesitate once or twice, I stop, and after that it is fine for the rest of the drive. Since it is sporadic, it's hard for the mechanics to see what is going on. I took it to one mechanic who cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle plates, flushed the transmission fluid, and replaced the spark plugs. He also put a note on the bill that the transmission may need to be rebuilt soon, although he didn't mention that when he told us what he did. The car drove fine for about three weeks after that, and then it started hesitating daily.
I took it into another mechanic who was able to see the problem for himself when I left the car overnight. He scanned it for error codes, but didn't find anything. He said he checked all connections and wiring and cleaned the wiring but that was all he could do. He said he thought it was a bad O2 sensor, but because the check engine light isn't on, he can't do anything. Meanwhile, he said I should keep driving it in hopes that it will get worse so they can figure it out. I'm worried that I may be causing long term damage, and that I may get stuck in the middle of an intersection without power. Is there anything they didn't check that they should have? Should I take it to another mechanic?
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This has been happening intermittently for a little over a year now. When sitting in traffic, my car begins to overheat. I've had two different mechanics look at it - the first swapped out the radiator cap.
The second said my coolant levels were low, but he pressure tested the system and found no leaks. He recommended I check my levels before taking long trips - so this weekend, before driving 380 miles to Phoenix, I checked my levels. They were a bit low, so I topped everything off with coolant and everything was fine on the drive out.
On the drive home, however, stuck in traffic, the car began to overheat. I pulled over and checked the reservoir and it was mostly full of coolant, but I added a little more, let it sit for a while, and then made my way through the traffic and home.
Also, I tested the fan, and it comes on.
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Why, after so many repairs and $$$$ with a AAA Certified Repair shop, the temp gauge that sooner or later shows the needle HOT? Everything accounted for - thermostat 5x, radiator 3x, computer, maintenance, etc etc etc. " It's fixed !!" and then it's starts all over again. It's got 186,000 on it, couple of minor wrecks, all maintenance kept up, still driving it but the needle goes back up again and again. Funny thing, water levels remain the same, no smoke, no red engine light, slight smell of a hot engine but nothing else so far. Still, that needle!! This has been going on a couple of years. Want to figure it out before I get rid of the car. 2003 Civic Coupe DX ....
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My cruise control does not work and the mechanic has diganosed the cruise control servo as the problem. The shop gave me an estimate of $700 (parts & labor) to replace it. Given the age of the car and the cost of repair, I am leaning towards doing it myself. I am handy with tools but have not done this type of repair before.
My question: Is there a downside to doing this repair myself. If I elect to do it myself, what do I need to watch for?
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So I have no clue where and how this leak started. My 2003 Honda Civic Ex has 133000 miles well earned. This leak has to be stopped. The carpet has been ripped out to dry, but I will probably replace it anyways. Some Ideas have already been given to me. First one, my car does have a system in it(meaning sub and amp cords running through firewall), so water could possibly pass through that hole. Second is checking the windows, door seals and if any welds or cracks have not been filled by the auto body shop. This would be from the one known accident from previous owner. Damage was done to the rear left drivers side panels, behind the door. The problem was looked over but nothing was found. Third would be to check, again the windows and doors rubber insulation strips. Also the fourth and most interesting idea, was that the vents or drains that are responsible for the water that flows down the front window and into those vents, I obviously have no real idea of what these things are called, might be clogged, as well as the channels that the vents are connected too.
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As a precautionary measure, I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 2003 Honda Civic. The mechanic noticed that the clutch master cylinder was leaking and I also had that replaced. After the repair, I noticed that my cruise control does not work (turns-on on the dashboard but does not work). I am taking the car back to have it fixed.
My question is where/what areas should I ask the mechanic to check to fix? I am thinking it could be as simple as a disconnected connection but I am not entirely sure.
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I have a Civic that is overheating after even short drives (ca. 30 mins). Today the heat gauge went up to 3/4 after 20 minutes, and was still rising when I stopped. The radiator fluid is topped up, oil was just changed and is full and not cloudy. No white smoke has been seen out of the tailpipe. The following repairs have already been attempted. New thermostat (replaced 2X), new radiator, timing kit, coolant temp sensors (both), water pump, AC condenser, AC refrigerant. It is still overheating after all that. Why?
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