Dodge - Avenger :: 2008 - Stutter When Hit The Gas To Shift Into Second Gear
Oct 27, 2015
I got new brakes put on a few months ago month (semi-metalic)... Any way anytime I drive and it is raining, when my car comes to a to a complete stop, and I hit the gas to shift into second gear my car sort of stutters like it doesn't want to shift but then it does.
I took it to two mechanics MULTIPLE times who even drove it in the rain and they couldn't find a single thing wrong. they hooked the transmission up to the computer and noticed nothing.
It has happened multiple times and its both been raining. Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
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I have a 2008 dodge avenger that stalls without warning while I am driving. It happens without any warning signs, happens when I am driving and also when I stop the car. The dealer can't find a thing wrong with it. What's wrong with it? It starts right up after this happens and they tell me my vin number isn't part of a recall for a problem that I have read that other people have with their 2008 avengers.
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2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)
Symptoms:
*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.
*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.
*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.
*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR
*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).
*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.
*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.
Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):
*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.
Other repairs:
*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.
Things I could think of:
*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)
Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:
*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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I had a 2010 Dodge Avenger and going down I averaged about 70-75mph and got about 30 mph, coming back I bumped my speed up to about 79-83 and saw the gas mileage dip a bit. So how do you know what speed (Avg) wise while on the freeway to drive to maximize your fuel consumption? Also, what can you do while driving to maximize it? Going down I didn't have any windows open due to some rain and didn't run my AC just vent air. Coming back had the window open a bit and some vent air.
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2010 2.4L Dodge Avenger SXT... Last month my car started overheating while I was idling but was fine otherwise. About a week later my cars check engine light and my electronic throttle control light came on. I took it to an auto store immediately and did the diagnosis on it. It came up with P2181 Cooling system performance with no reported fixes. Few days later it started overheating while driving. It only took two or three blocks before in the red. Decided to go to the local dealership (didn't want to go there but car is still under warranty) and they said since my boyfriend had messed with it trying to see what was wrong it wasn't under warranty. They said the wrong kind of coolant was in and that i needed to replace my thermostat/ So we changed out the two thermostat and drained/replace new coolant. It is still is over heating.
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Already replaced the starter relay will not crank from the key but even when I jump the starter the car still wont start and the switch is in the on position I checked all the fuses and replaced the ecm ....
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I have a 2010 dodge avenger sxt replaced fans but won't turn I connected everything back together still nothing....
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When you press on the accelerator the car feels very sluggish it only has 61,000 miles
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I bought an avenger that runs a little rough and I am trying to figure out if I have a fuel and air problem or a broken motor mount. In neutral or any other gear the car does not shake. In drive it shakes horrendously. Watching the engine as the car is put in drive the engine moves towards you a about 3 or so inches. Now with throttling the car takes a while to accelerate even after I stomp it on the highway to merge. On home roads I can let off the gas and the car will sustain itself at 25 to 30 mph. 1st gear is not very responsive. All other gears seem to be ok with acceleration. I am trying to find a good starting point.
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I bought a used 2009 Dodge Avenger and it did not have an owners manual with it and was wondering how do you reset the "change oil" warning light. The old way of turning on the ignition and pumping the gas pedal does not work on this model.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Avenger ES that reads code P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. I've replaced the transmission control module, and filter. I've called the Dodge dealership and asked if the new transmission control module needs to be programmed. The service department said "Possibly" I said "Well it's shifting better than before. If there wasn't any firmware on it what would it do?" He said "My guess it that the car wouldn't shift." I asked if the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid visible once you remove the filter. He said "I'm not sure." Clearly, my car isn't going there. Then asked to be transfer to the Parts department to see if there was a part called Torque converter clutch solenoid. That answer was "No" there isn't a part listed called "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid". What should I do or try?
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I haven't owned a manual transmission in a while so I need to know if this is normal. When shifting into any gear I have to force the shifter into gear with quite a bit of force. Almost like it's hitting something and then going into gear. There's no screeching or grinding. It does the same thing when pulling out of gear.
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My 2003 Dodge Dakota does not shift properly sometimes going into second gear and it only happens in second gear. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift into third. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an off ramp. Truck will not shift properly when going up grade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts whether in cruise control or not in cruise control, going upgrade. Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no luck. Not once has the ENGINE LIGHT ever come on.
So a lot of the comments that were presented to me I have done. Here is a list:
Changed govner senors and solenoid. Did not work.
Checked for exhaust leaks and other leaks. No leaks.
Checked all vaccuums. No problems there.
Had engine checked and dyno tested. No problems there.
Had transmission rebuilt. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Had new transmission put in. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Also, sometimes when I put the truck in reverse, it seems to about to stall, but it doesn't. It also does it sometimes when I put the truck in drive it seems that it wants to stall.
I just recently learned that my truck has a Transmission computer module, Transfer case computer module and of course the main computer. Is there a way to test those modules out?
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This morning my 2006 Dodge Dakota v8 auto decided to become a large paperweight. I started it up fine and let it warm up a bit (about five-ten minutes), then shifted into reverse to leave my driveway and it won't move. It just rev's and rev's like it's in neutral. I tried Reverse, Drive, and both low gears, but no luck.
Since it got very cold, it has been making a buzzing/whirring sound that seems to be coming from the belts. But that sounds would go away when the car warmed up. I thought I needed a new power steering belt (and still may), but that wouldn't keep the car from moving at all, right?
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I have a 04 grand caravan 3.8 liter. after filling up with gas & only after filling up i have a prob with the way the van runs. it will start and idle fine but once i shift in to gear and try to drive it starts to buck. if i take my foot off the gas it wants to stall. if i shift in to N or park the RPMs are around 400/500. if i rev the motor in N or park it will smooth out and idle fine and drive fine until the next fill up, then it starts all over again.
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I'm new to this and not really sure if I'm doing it right. I need to know how to take the gear shift knob off my 2008 santa fe.
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had issue/backed into garage door with rear of car---car will now not go into gear--gear shift will not engage. can manually engage with button, but, will not do normally. abs break system light now on. what do I do?
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We just got a 2008 4Cyl with the 5spd auto. Only had it two weeks. When driving 35-45mph, the tranny will shift up into 5th gear and then basically STAY there. As we approach a slight upward grade, the tachometer is stuck at 1200 RPM and the whole car shudders and vibrates as the engine "lugs" down. We find ourselves constantly playing with the gas pedal in order to FORCE the tranny to downshift.
Took it to dealer. They experienced same thing. They said it was "Normal for this model - at this time". They quietly told me they are getting other complaints and look forward to Toyota releasing new programming for the ECU. Three different drivers and rear passengers have quickly remarked about this "sensation" when going up any grade.
We experience this constantly driving here in Maine. Interstate and inner city driving is fine. If we move the gated shifter to "4" - it resolves this problem. Dealer said this is normal. So I actually purchased a "manual" automatic transmission?? Do we just stop whining and retrain ourselves or do you folks think we can look forward to a solution?Our 2004 Camry, 2002 Tundra and our 1999 Solara had wonderful transmissions.
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I have a 2008 passat komfort with 53K miles on it (TSI engine). I had the water pump replaced two weeks ago at the local dealer. After this procedure I am getting all gear shift lights on at the same time on the dashboard, after I drive the car roughly 8 miles. I would like to avoid going back to the dealer since I don't trust them.
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I am now getting a grinding noise when I shift from first to second gear. It sounds like the two metals rubbing each other. Its not happening all the time, but for the past two days a bit frequently
I had reported this grinding noise when I turn left a month back. Was thinking because of my worn out tyres, but apparently not.
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