while driving my 1999 dodge grand caravan w/ 133,500+ miles on it the dashboard lit brighter and the seat belt reminder light came on then went off and the dashboard returned to its usual glow. What could this be?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2014 Prius V seven seater. A few times while driving, the rear passenger seat belt reminder display on the dash lights up even though the passengers are belted in securely and stays on until I stop the car and then power off and on again.
View 6 RepliesQuestion is about seat belt reminder/warning light that sits on right side of the radio. Mine is on all the time, it doesn't matter if someone is sitting in passenger seat or not. The only thing it will be different is when you first start the car or if someone is in passenger seat it pulsates 10 or 11 times and then stays on. I tried different seat belt & seat belt buckle, nothing. There is no warning light on my instrumental panel. Everything seems to be fine beside that light. And yes I did search for it here on forums, google, etc, and I'd rather fix this problem then just unplug the light. What could be the problem? Light itself?
View 10 RepliesWhen I'm driving without a passenger, the passenger seat belt reminder light illuminates and stays on. Is there some sort of computer or weight sensor in the seat that trips this indicator light? I've noticed that sometimes, if I push down on the seat or move the seat forward or back, the light will go off. For the most part, however, it comes back on and remains on.
View 17 Replies2008 Suzuki XL7 Luxury FWD105,000 miles3.6L 6 cylinder engine
The "buckle seat belt" symbol keeps popping up on the dashboard for the driver's seat even though the seat belt is certainly buckled. This happens off and on throughout a drive, but it does happen at least once every time the car is driven. Other than the constant dinging and the dashboard light, the seatbelt seems to be working properly.
We took it in to a mechanic and they said it is a switch in the seat belt assembly that is failing, but they don’t sell just the switch. They have to replace the whole assembly. They determined this by doing an electrical test in which they compared the resistance of the working passenger seatbelt to the non-working drivers seatbelt.
We are concerned that this is a problem that would cause the seatbelt to fail in the case of an accident. If we ignore this problem and just have them shut the seat belt warning sound OFF, are we in danger? Basically I just want to know how critical is this problem?
No Beeping sound for passenger seat belt, just flashing sign on the dashboard. Just want to see if this is normal or not? ( I would assume it should not be).
If so, I could go to the dealer and get it fixed. This is for 2013 Sonata GLS.
1999 grand caravan 3.0L approx 250,000 Kilometers / 155,000 miles
Yesterday morning I was on my way to work, highway mainly. We have some cold weather here lately, say this morning low -20c range with a light wind. I was about 15 minutes ( 1/2 way & running fine ) while into my drive when i stopped at a light ( vehicle at operating temp )... light goes green, then i accelerated i felt a slight lurch/hesitation, almost a miss but it kept going and then it seemed to be slightly over revving / under powered to get up to the typical highway speed of 80 KMH / 50 MPH in that area.
It felt a bit low on power and a bit louder than normal, i chalk that up to the fact that after the "lurch" it felt like the trans was, I don't want to say slipping but kind of. It would settle into its final high gear a tad later than normal.
I will say it seems like it is reacting like when you accelerate on a slippery or icy road and the speedometer would/should swing up but you would be creeping or not moving as fast as the speed indicated, but the traction is fine, and the speedo just indicates the actual speed traveling while my foot is in it and it should really be spinning its wheels. It does get up to speed but is lagging...
Ran poorly when i cold started it after the 5 hours at work but made it home with all the same conditions. It smoothed out some as it warmed up
When I am parked the idle seems to hunt in a high low high scenario that repeats itself every few seconds, No codes stored, no CEL, no codes while idling, or under forced load IE running in gear with foot on brake and loading engine. scanned it when i got home.
All fluids are up, the trans fluid is just above the add mark but clean. I did a water pump, timing belt and tensioner a couple months ago...the pump was a weeper, hated that job. New air filter and plugs,cap, rotor wires installed then, say early NOV.Cleaned the throttle body then as well. No fluids on the ground since then. all wires are properly inserted in the cap. I had a cyl misfire code just after the new wires were installed 2 months ago cyls 1,3,5 but that was the cap end terminals were just slightly loose. a push back on and no codes no miss after that, till yesterday? full tank of gas two days ago and have about 100 kmh/60 miles on that tank.
all of these conditions are slight, like they are definitely noticeable but none are extremely worse. I'm thinking sensor? I can snap the throttle when it is running in park and it revs but seems like its not as crisp. I know my dad had trans issues with his 89 GC 3.0L but other than this water pump of late , this thing has treated us very very well. I'm not leaning towards trans, especially since the idle seems wonky/erratic.Previously it wouldn't snap your neck ,but it would downshift and pass or get up and go when you asked, now, not so much...
UPDATE ....THIS MORNING I took it out for a small drive this morning after the school bus came, ran really rough on the cold start, didn't stall but was a RUH - RUH - RUH labored running before engine warmed up. Down the road waiting at the bus stop it stall once while waiting for the bus to arrive. started right back up no issue.
still have a rough ruh ruh ruh ruh kind of sensation like one beat per second timing, very strong when cold, smoothed out to about 90% gone when warmed up but still noticeable. can get it to spin the tires on the icy roads but doesn't seem to accept the acceleration applied to the pedal like it should. i have my foot in it it should either downshift and charge or spin and swing the speedo up... but if i did get the wheels spinningthey would just climb up slower than normal like 30 mph 40 kmh and climbing when it should be climbing and reading the wheelspin at a much faster rate like 40-50 mph and . no codes active or stored ... my OBD tool has an emission " guage " on it likea stoplight, green yellow and red. it does work when i had the misfire after the new wires ( see water pump re&re listed above ) the light was yellow, I refit the wires in the cap and cleared the miss fire code and it read green. figured that tidbitwas worth mentioning.
basically it feels like the engine is being held back, like a heavy , heavy spring would on a carburated vehicle. it still works but has a wet blanket on it.
also will mention in the past week or two I'd say i may have noticed a slightly lower idle speed when stopped at a light but like i mentioned the heater fan and lights aregetting used more often at higher frequency as it has been cold and the sun sets at about 4 pm this time of year
temp here this morning -25c / -13f
In cold weather, front suspension is very noisy. I've replaced stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar links, control arms (complete with new bushings and ball joints). A few months prior, I replaced struts with Monroe quick struts. Noise appears when I hit a pot hole or go over a speed bump. Not really a creaking, almost like a slapping sound. I've taken a look at motor mounts and they look OK. Now that the weather is warm there's no noise. Rack and pinion were replaced about a year ago so engine cradle was removed. I removed it and reinstalled. Also installed new tie rod ends and lubed the inner tie rod joints.
View 3 RepliesI just recently purchased a used 2011 Camry and I am seeing a maintenance reminder message on my dash. After I complete all of the recommended maintenance items, how do I reset the message?
View 8 RepliesHow can I reset the Maintenance Req'd reminder on my dash so it disappears? My car is a 2005 Honda Accord LX 2-dr coupe automatic, 2.4 liter, 4 cyl.
View 19 RepliesSo I was trying to track down this squeak noise and I removed the drivers side seat belt but now the belt will not retract? It's stuck like this, is there a manual release? Buying another one is not a option right now. And I have to drive the car tomorrow morning.
View 1 RepliesMy "new" truck has a sluggish seatbelt on the driver's side. It won't retract all the way.
How do I get to the mechanism to have a look at it or put in a replacement?
The belt on this one comes out of the top of the seat, not from against the door.
The top mounting point on my seatbelt is squeaking like crazy. The guide for the seat belt is rubbing on the piece it bolts to because the plastic tabs on the plastic cover have worn out. Where to get a new one of these? Its just the plastic triangle shaped cover that goes over the seatbelt mount.
View 1 RepliesHaving issues with seat belt disconnecting on its own? Ill be driving down the road and it just unbuckles......i figure its got gunk in it so I will and try and clean.... maybe spring is weak.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
View 17 RepliesSometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
View 2 RepliesI got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
just got a new Passat 2008, 6 MT, when I go on the freeway the passenger seat belt winding starts rattling, I have to buckle it for the rattling to stop. also, it seems like the passenger seat appears to be vibrating but the car itself is fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
View 2 Replies