Dodge - Intrepid :: 2004 - Revs Up When Starting After Temperature Change - CEL Comes On
Oct 31, 2011
My 2004 Intrepid with 100,100 miles runs and starts fine until a temperature change occurs. When that happens, and first starting, the engine will rev up and the check engine light will come. I don't drive it for awhile and then it starts and runs fine, but the check engine light is still on. I've changed various sensors, and the throttle body assembly. Still not fixed. What could be causing this? It has a 2.7 engine.
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We inherited a 2004 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L V6 with about 110K mileage. Basic problem: sometimes on startup the car runs terribly. It's like a cartoon car--it wheezes, bucks, snorts, revs up, drops back down again, etc., and cannot be driven. You know as soon as you turn the key whether or not it will run correctly. Sometimes when you turn the key, it starts up fine and runs fine. We've taken it to two different repair shops--our local guy and the dealership-- several times, and $1,700 later, it still happens. These are the repairs they have done: replace the map sensor, replace the camshaft position sensor, replace the crankshaft position sensor, replace the powertrain control module, replace the throttle position censor and, finally, replace the pigtail for the map sensor.
The codes usually indicate a problem with the map sensor. As a matter of fact, the last time we took it in while it was running terribly, our mechanic unplugged the map sensor while it was running and the engine ran smoothly while it was unplugged. This is what caused him to put in a new pigtail for the sensor. Anyway, after that last repair, a few uses later, the car acted up again. We've learned that if you let the car sit for a few minutes after a bad start up, it will often start up fine the next time you try. One note is that the problem has not occurred as often this summer as it did in the cooler months.
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I was trying to look up how to change the battery in a 1999 dodge intrepid. When I looked on line I got different ways to change it. One was removing the front tire and remove it from below. The other is to remove air cleaner and other items and remove from the top. Which way is it?
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I have a major coolant leak in my '99 Dodge Intrepid. I had both top and bottom housing kits replaced over the summer and for the last month I've been having to add coolant about every 3 days to every day now. Today coming home, my car started to steam from underneath the hood and temperature gauge was rising on the hotter side while I was at the stoplight. When I got home I checked the water pump and it was empty. Not in a financial point to have this fixed right away, am wanting a temporary solution for a couple of weeks to get by before I can get it in the shop.
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We have a poorly maintained 2001 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L with 155,000 miles on it. Over the Christmas break, we left it untouched in the driveway for a month. After that it wouldn't start without being jumped off, and the oil light flickered when the car idled. We had the battery, alternator, and starter checked at a local shop; all of them checked out fine. Nevertheless, the car wouldn't start without being jumped off. It would click once, and then nothing. We also noticed it was overdue by 2,000 miles for an oil change, and thought this may be causing the oil light issue. Since the 2.7L Intrepids are notorious for engine sludge, we added a couple of ounces of Seafoam, drove about 15 miles, and then took it in for an oil change. Now it starts without a jump. So my question is Is there any way that oil sludge (and perhaps a weak starter?) is the issue?
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I have 2004 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L with 153K miles. For the past tow months I am getting oil in the radiator but NO antifreeze in the oil. Oil level gets low but the transmission fluid is fine. No coolant smoke, No Oil smoke, Have been draining coolant, Passed emission 3-months ago, Gas mileage is fine @ 23MPG. I have to add about quart a month (1000?-miles). I have been using Mobile-1 synthetic since bought the car at 108K. Currently 153K miles on the engine. Two years ago water pump and timing belt was replaced. If it is the head gasket then why oil is fine and no coolant in the oil. It is Not transmission Fluid either.
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When i went out to start my car it would start but then start shaking really bad when i would it the gas it would stall what might this be? i checked the oil and it is very low could this be the problem? 2004 dodge intrepid ....
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2004 Dodge Intrepid. 70000 miles. Shimmy in steering wheel. Seems to come and go at about 7 second intervals. Suspension, tires, balance, alignment all check OK. One mechanic suggested steering rack valve problem. Could the computer possibly have anything to do with the 7 second interval?
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The "check engine" light on my 2004 Dodge Intrepid has been on (not blinking though) for months and, after putting new spark plugs, wires, ignition coils, 02 sensors, cam sensors and other things, the code that keeps coming up is P300 random misfire. After a few of the above items were put in (particularly the 02 sensors), the light would go off for a day or two but then always come back on. Because of this "random misfire", the car basically has no power when I push the accelerator down (at least until it warms up for a while and even then too sometimes).
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I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. Here's the deal. When I drive on the highway (higher speeds) and then slow down, the car (automatic transmission) automatically downshifts drastically (like throw me through the windshield drastically) and then will not come out of that lower gear.. UNLESS I turn off the engine and restart it, THEN it fixes itself (took me a while to discover this). When I am driving around town at lower speeds this does not happen. Only if I get to higher speeds and then slow down. And one other symptom...SOMETIMES I can just be at a stop light/sign, still in drive, but when I put on the gas to go, it stays, like the car is in neutral, even though the gearshift is still in drive.
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Sometimes, when the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't start up when I turn it off. For example, let's say on my way home I stop off in a supermarket to pick up some stuff. I'll come back out 20 minutes or so later, only to find out my car isn't starting. I'll turn the key and the engine will crank, shake and then immediately die on me [I'm under the impression the engine isn't even starting at this point because tapping the gas does nothing]. Again, this is a problem that is only happening sometimes. I can do the same routine tomorrow and it'll start up flawlessly.
1) This is only an intermittent problem. The problem doesn't seem to be occurring more frequently, but when it does happen, the engine is harder to start. For example, the first time this happened to me, I got it started after one or two tries. After my latest episode, it took me 11 tries to get it running!
2) After the engine does finally start, the engine will run really rough and shake a lot until I tap the gas a few times (which is leading me to believe this is some sort of fuel related problem [sometimes, the engine will start on one try, but will run rough until I tap the gas a few times]).
3) When the car is cold, it starts up flawlessly every time without fail.
4) The car runs mint! No hesitation or otherwise stalling, etc.
What I've done so far to try to remedy the problem:
1) Changed spark plugs
2) Fuel line cleaning/flush
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I have a 2002 dodge intrepid that wont crank over sometimes unless I take the key and keep moving from the start position to the off position ,then it finally engages. I have replaced the battery, but I thought if it was a starter issue, it would click more than once.
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I backed out of the drive way with My 96 Dodge Intrepid yesterday and when I put it in drive I noticed the CEL came was on. Seemed like it came on with in a few seconds of driving forward. I was driving slow as that is what is called for in my neighborhood and all seemed ok. About 2 minutes later when I was going about 40 I noticed the Tach was at about 3k. I seems it will not shift into 3rd. I moved the shift lever several times and it did not seem to impact anything. I immediately drove home and used my other car to go to my appointment. It did seem to shift fine other than that.It never got to warm so I did not check the fluid but I did check it a few days earlier and it was ok. We had snow the previous day and I would have noticed any leaks on the drive way, which I did look for, and did not find any.
I know I need to get the CEL read. I need to drive about 10 miles to get somewhere to do that. Is there anything else I can check or try before hand? My guess is it is an electrical issue as it happened fast with out any warning. I don't have a lot of experience with transmissions but my guess is it is a solenoid not working. It may be fried or it is not getting a signal. Possibly VSS or something in the powertrain module or what every they call it in Chrysler world?
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I found a low mileage 2000 intrepid with the 2.7 liter engine from a car that was in a wreck. I would like to put this in my 2003 intrepid with a dead 2.7. Someone said that 99-01 engines can be interchanged easily but I have a 2000. The first thing I noticed is that the engine harnesses are different between the cars, so I was wondering if I change the out the harness with my 2003 harness, next I trashed my flex plate so can I use flex plate and torque converter from the 2000. Would the engine still work?
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I've got a 95 Intrepid that wont seem to change gears when I have the accelerator all the way down (from standing and passing gear). Other than that it seems ok. I want to add some Lucas. I am worried about overfilling...Lucas says a moderate overfill is ok, but I am still apprehensive.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid automatic v6. My battery light is lightup on the dash board so I figured my battery was dying due to loss of power in the vehicle, or the alternator going out. I took off the negative wire to the battery and the car continued to run, as Ive been told that by doing this, if the car dies then the alternator is bad. I checked the battery and it reads 14 volts, so I believe the battery is good? I do have a sound system in the car and have a 1500 watt amp connected, the previous owners also had a stereo system and however they rigged there's was totally a mess as the wires were all, just a mess. As of today, the car has died, and when we jumped it it did start up, but was not able to keep power, the dash lights would not come on, basically anything that had to do with electric stuff was not working? I did just get a tune up and oil change, new spark plugs and wires, and also it has been over heating.....
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I have a 98 Dodge Intrepid and it smokes when I pull out. I was told it may be the valve seals. Is this true? Could it be the rings? It doesnt seem to smoke when I go up hills just when I pull out.. Is there an easy fix?
What are some problems I can expect with this car? I have 107,000 miles and am wondering when can I expect the timing belt to fail? What are some things I may have to fix?
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Here is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L DOHC that continues to run hot. I have replaced the thermostat, fans, relief value and have done a radiator flush.
After I have had these things done the car does fine for about a week then back to the same old crap. I can drive about 40 miles in the morning time nothing happens. In the afternoon about 20 miles then the temp gauge starts rising so I turn on my heater for about 5 minutes till it goes down then turn the ac back on for the next 20 miles home and does fine.
If I turn the car off for about 10 minutes or less then crank it back up the temp gauge jumps way up there I sit and let it idle till it goes back down on its own without the heater.
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I recieved a smog check and I fail one small problem. but what do this code stands for PO441?
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My 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
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