Dodge - Ram :: 2003 - Losing Mileage After Changing Plugs
Apr 2, 2016
I was getting 10.5 MPG in my 2003 dodge ram ST, It has 33 in tires and a 4.7 engine.
It was missing a bit so I code checked it and 4 plugs were not firing. I got the new plugs and a 3 ft extension for my 1/2 in ratchet and after an hour I got the old plugs out without taking the threads out with them. I bought it used and the plugs looked like they came with the truck.
Now I'm getting 9.3 MPG. runs good but what can cause the thing to lose mileage?
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OK changing plugs and boots on 2003 f 350 5.4 (I have a bad miss and mis-fire code) First time messing with these things. When taking out the coil over plugs it looks like somebody put die-elect grease up underneath the boot at the top where the spring and the metal prong touches together. I thought I just needed only to grease the plug on the sides to keep the boot from sort of melting onto the plug. And some boots had maybe a drop of water in them is this common or any concern? Might be condensation and water does conduct elec, so not that concerned, but these C-O-P's are new to me and thought I'd ask. I've searched here and read posts about changing of the plugs and C-O-P's but don't remember any water boot coming up.
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Where can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires. It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough. I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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As far as I know, my Passat has never had any other spark plugs other than OEM. I could also swear that those OEM plugs always had 3 grounds. My gas mileage historically averages about 27MPG in a mixed city/highway environment.
Recently, my spark plugs were replaced and now my gas mileage has dropped to 24MPG. I had a similar problem once with my previous car (1998 Jetta GLI) and it was due to going from a three ground spark plug to a single ground plug. Putting in three ground spark plugs instantly restored the gas mileage to previous levels.
I've read repeatedly that the NKG PFR6Q is the OEM plug but it only has a single ground. I realize that my memory could be faulty, but this is driving me nuts.
Alas I can't be sure what was there before versus what's there now, but I know my previous mechanic was a stickler for OEM parts. Would switching from a multi-ground to a single-ground cause a 10%+ drop in mileage?
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I have 60k on a 2010 Prius III. my mileage is slowing dropping, i am thinking about installing new plugs.?
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My 2010 prius had been giving low mpg since the last three months. It has now 145K miles.when I bought it a year ago, it had 134K on it. I haven't changed the spark plugs, do they have any effect on low mpg? My mpg is about 39 now,but was 42_45 before.
What are the symptoms for the spark plugs to be changed?
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2001 LS v8 .... What would cause the car to give off a strong smell after changing the plugs?
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I got the plugs for my '06. I hope to put them in in a day or 2. My question is: is it necessary to disconnect the 12v battery to do this? I've changed plugs in other cars without doing so.
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I got the APR ECU Tune in June along with VW Racing air intake. Car runs great except... the engine is knocking under full load. The guy who did the install heard it right away but I just thought he was trying to up sell me. He suggested new spark plugs.
Well it's two (three?) months later and I've come to accept that I can't drive it in the 91 program anymore (I paid extra for the ability to switch programs - lucky!!). I was switching back and forth between 91 and stock and I can hear the difference.
Are spark plugs the likely fix, and how do I choose the right ones for my Mark VI Golf R? "one step cooler"??
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I've been doing the 40k service to my R32, and was in the process of changing the spark plugs.
The first three went smooth with no problems, the next three however.... When I pulled the coil packs off, they were covered in rust and corrosion.
The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.
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2004, 4L, sohc - Is there any issues or problems changing spark plugs?
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As I say in my first thread my 2000 4 runner don't start after I change the spark plugs. I don't get any fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
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I am trying to change spark plugs and wires on my 2001 Impala with a 3.8 liter. I was able to get the boots off of the front plugs OK but I am having trouble getting a good grip on the rear ones. It seems like they have glued themselves to the plugs. Removing the boots?
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My 2011 f250 has 92k miles, I want to change all 16 spark plugs.
Do the 6.2l plugs have problems breaking like the 3v engines did?
I think I'm going to pull the passenger fender liner to get to the lower plugs in the head.
How does the coil pigtail unclip? I looked at them briefly earlier and it looks like you pull the red tab back, then press down and pull on the pigtail but that did not work and I did not want to break anything.
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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Right now I am seeing roughly 41 MPG and that is after changing the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium's, Air intake filter and did an oil change since it was due for one. I have driven the car roughly 2,500 miles since all of this stuff was done and it just seemed to continue to drop to the 41 MPG mark.
What I have noticed though is that when the motor turns off it shudders and the when it restarts while the car is in park the car will roll back and forth slightly. I have also noticed that the car seems to struggle to get up to the posted speed while climbing an incline and also while the car idles in park or at a complete stop there seems to be a bit of a miss fire. Could that be caused by a bad coil? Because I have tried everything short of taking it to the dealer which I really do not want to do again and be told there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is.
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So, I changed my spark plugs a couple of months ago and did the pcv valve swap as well. Now I have this high pitched rattling noise, like a tiny chain rattling. It is coming from the engine bay - in the area between the throttle body and the firewall. At least that's where I can hear it.
It does it quickly right after I start the engine (though I am certain it is not a timing chain issue)...I had that fixed a while back. Also it doesn't sound like the timing chain tensioner noise.
I am thinking maybe the pcv valve that I swapped out. I remember reading that a new one should make some noise when you shake it...an old, gunked one would not rattle if you shook it in your hands. Consequently, this noise sounds a lot like if I would shake the pvc valve back and forth very fast.
It happens intermittently on idle....and when I rev the engine, it will also make the noise while the RPM falls back down. Since this happened literally right after I did the spark plug change and the pcv valve, my guess is it's that. Maybe I didn't install it correctly.
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I have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
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I have a 2010 F150 Supercrew 5.4 Lariat that just turned 100,000 miles that is losing fuel mileage all of a sudden... Over the years I'd get 16-17 mpg city and 18/19 highway(best I ever got was 20 mpg on a trip from New Orleans to Houston with cruise set on 65 all the way and no stops) always checked- tank vs miles, not on dash, and with every tank... I've changed all the plugs recently, did the BG Induction Service and BG Transmission service, K&N filter cleaned and recharged, about to do the MAP sensor cleaning also... I've dropped to 15-15.5 miles for the last two tanks...
Truck runs fine but maybe it's just me seems slightly sluggish when driving and accelerate to speed up quickly. Idles fine etc... I've just ordered a scanner for the computer, not that I have any codes YET...but I'm just trying to figure this out to get back to my normal mileage... Again no codes but what about the 02 sensors, they've never been changed... any other tweaks you knowledgeable folks can think of? Also ran Seafoam through the last two tanks... I pull a trailer from time to time... but not for a while... can the transmission get stuck in a lower setting since I'm told they "adjust" and need a few hundred miles to adjust back to non hauling?
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Other than during cold winter weather, our 2+ year old Prius has been averaging 51-56mpg all around. Our tires needed changing and my spouse went to a tire dealer. The dealer recommended Cooper tires, a model supposed to get 50k miles. Almost immediately we now average 45-46mpg.
In looking back, we didn't buy tires that accentuate mpgs. Is there anything we can do short of selling the tires? And are they makes and models we should think about when it's time to change the tires?
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