Eclipse - Mitsubishi :: Hard Cold Start - Cranks For 5 Or 10 Seconds Before It Catches
Sep 30, 2012
My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
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Description: after 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving I will begin to get hard bucks (misfires beyond one cylinder) and eventually stall. The car will typically turn right back over - but stall after only a minute or so. If I leave the car off for around 15 minutes it will run fine for a while and then stall out again.
It sounds as if the car is running out of fuel which it is not. The pump remains primed and the pressure is normal.
What I've done so far:
Fuel pump has been swapped
Fuel filter has been replaced
Fuel lines have been verified (even cleaned to rail - injector heads and intake manifold... It's been a fun weekend)
Fuel pump relay has been replaced
I have also recently replaced the ignition coil due to an unrelated issue for which I will provide detail so that you too can rule this out. I had random multiple misfires in bank 3 - replaced the coil and the misfires were gone. When the problem came back I was suspect of the new coil and originally believed that this had failed at temp. This coil has been tested hot and cold and passed each way. I also swapped out for the coil with the issue on bank 3 just to verify.
I have read in a few forums which point towards either the ASD relay (which I was also suspect of early in the process of elimination) itself failing when heated or the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor causing the relay to trip when they are heated.
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My car has over 120,000 miles, runs great, oil changes every 3-5K. Love this car! Last month before I took it to the car wash to hand wash (can't go through auto with the soft top), always careful not to use high power around the windows, but this time I tried the "hot wax". The next time that we had a very hard rain, I noticed water dripping into the car from the top of the windows right around were the rubber seams meet.
I thought, ok, maybe it's because it was such a hard rain. However... when ever it rains more than a very light rain, water is getting in from the same place on both sides of the car. What can I do to stop the leak? I'm hoping that I don't have to replace the whole top, nothing else is wrong and I don't see a leak anywhere else.
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Curious if this could be a normal thing from it sitting for 6 months... I have a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse.
Took the battery out for the Winter. Just started the car today only ran it for about 2 min when I went to close the hood after shutting it off I could smell a faint burning smell the smell resembled a burning rubber smell it was not strong but I also didnt run the car for long.
I amworried now to drive it or start it as I dont wanna cause harm what to do? I looked best I could and all the wires look fine.. no signs of chewing or anything.
Do you think its safe for me to start it and maybe just let it Idle and see if the smell fades? Im worried about it catching fire.
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My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
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I bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
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Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
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This winter I plan to drive across country from California to Florida in my 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse, unfortunately it’s AC it out and the mechanics said it was the blower and possibly other things and it would coast at least 800 dollars. As I drive across the country in the winter I do not want my car the fog up and would like to keep my windows rolled down to keep air circulation going but if it’s going to be raining that option is out. I’ve searched many different sites online to find a side window deflector but it seems that there isn’t any for that year. If AC repair is out of the question, and a side window deflector doesn’t seem to exist for this model does.
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My eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
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I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
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I recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.
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I have a 99 Eclipse which is pretty low... I guess while driving I had scraped the oil pan on something but didn't think anything of it until my car was sitting and i noticed loss of oil. It doesn't leak when the car is idling, but as soon as the engine is off, i see a thin stream of oil pouring out. My question is, is there anything i can seal the hole with so i do not immediately need to replace the entire pan?
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I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse. When I start my car, it will only go through second gear. If I stop, turn the car off and back on, It will go through the gears and I can drive normally. I am now just putting the car in neutral while driving, turning it off and on again and it will shift like normal. Otherwise, it just stays in the lower gear. This has been steadily getting worse meaning, I would only have to stop and start the car once on a trip and now it is whenever I slow down to a lower gear. Every now and then it will jerk also. I thought it was a transmission issue but the transmission worked fine most of the time when this started and still does except when I slow down. The interesting thing is that it works fine when I turn the engine off and on again so I was thinking something else. The guy from advanced auto said it was possibly a power issue with something that makes the transmission shift and the transmission guy said it was electrical.
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My son has a 2000 Eclipse which is making a horrible noise. Some say it is the lifters, some say it is a rod. Sounds like an airplane engine. The oil was not that low, maybe two quarts when we checked. He wants to sell it for 2000.00. Do you think it could be repaired and then sold? Do they have a problem common with this sound?
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I have 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse with ~105K miles on it. I bought it 3 months ago. It has a strange problem. The RPM starts to drop, whenever I stop at signals or stop signs, or stop for any other reason. It comes back to normal when I turn off the fan. I am not sure what is going on.
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A few weeks ago my '03 Mitsubishi Eclipse missed for the first time since I've had it. It's a 4-banger, so it was definitely noticeable. Fast forward a couple weeks and after a trip to Texas (from Tennessee), it begins to run between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM on start-up. There is a lack of power (not attributed to the small engine size) that was not present until a short time ago. It stopped doing that, and today a service engine light came on. The code was P0134. Some things about the car- the oil is changed religiously every 3-4 thousand miles, and the only major repairs were several years ago- the clutch and head gasket. Spark plugs are 2 years old, and coil packs were checked out around then as well.
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My 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?
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I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, It will shake vigorously when it is in gear with my foot on the brake,(say at a stop light). But as soon as i let off of the brake and press on the gas the shaking completely stops. But as soon as I stop again it starts to shake again.
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2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT 5 speed... Wife's car, has 142000 on it, started out 6 months ago as a hard jerky motion, has since calmed down to a single stutter sometime within first 20 miles. It was overdue for 120000 mile tune up, had that done along with timing belt replacement, still does it. Check engine was on before taking to dealer, off when I picked it up, back on next day. It's sometimes almost not noticeable, other times it gets your attention. Seems like it has to be electrical to happen so quickly, then it's gone in a fraction of a second, like it just doesn't fire for a tenth of a second. Was going to try distributor next, but don't want to continue sinking money in it and not be confident that I'm going down the right road, especially after the expensive tune up.
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The clutch doesn't slip all the time. Sometimes when I put it in third then put the peddle to the floor, it slips for half a second then grabs. Lately noticed it in 4th and 5th gear too. When it does slip, it slips the whole trip. Then later that day it might not slip at all. At first I thought clutch was going, but when does a clutch get better? From what I remember it usually stays the same or gets worse. The fact that there's days it grabs perfect without a slip, leads me to believe something else is causing it. Maybe it's not disengaging or engaging fully.. linkage problem perhaps? I did a quick bleed, hoping it was air. Was better for a couple days after that, then started slipping again.
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Our 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse engine heated up. The Anti Freeze reservoir is full but the radiator was low which caused the car to heat up. Why isthe anti freeze not getting to the radiator? The hose seems clear. We filled the radiator with anti freeze and the seems to be working fine. Why is it not sucking from the reservoir.
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