I have a harley f150 supercharged with 112000 miles.. I notice that when i get on the gas good and get the rpm around 4200, I get a vibration in the gas pedal while it's in that rpm range.. It just does it at that rpm and at no other times does it do it.. what could it be ?????
View 8 RepliesHere's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
While driving with cruise control set at 80 mph in my 2002 Toyota Camry, the engine suddenly revved up to 4200 rpm while going up a hill on the freeway. I was wondering if this sudden high rpm could do damage to the engine? The car has 163,000 miles on it.
View 8 RepliesMy 2002 camry has a vibration feel while pumping the brake pedal (no other vibration from car). It happens, when you drive slow or fast and stop. Happens when the engine is not even turned on and the brake pedal is just pumped. Its hard to describe the feeling other than zig zaggy on the way down, pulsating, etc. It starts to feel this way on the way down and halfway through the press ends smooth.
I took it to a auto mechanic two days ago and he stated the car had zero brake issues. Rotors and pads are in good condition (sometimes these are the cause for the vibration, but only when driving and stopping), fluid level are good etc. I asked him to test it out and pump it slowly or adruptly, at standstill or while driving, but he still couldn't understand what i was talking about. Researched on the net and found out the likely problem has to do with either Brake booster pump or Master brake cylinder. From a tsb (like a recall note from toyota, see below) , it seemed certain it had to do with the master brake cylinder. I took it to Toyota today and they stated it had to do with the brake booster pump instead , its not worth fixing bc it cost an arm and a leg. Just now i stopped by Active Green + Ross at 110 Gerrard and he stated that its most likely the Master Brake Cylinder, since if you were to pump on the brake while the car was off, turn on the ignition, and if the pedal goes down smoothly , the booster pump should be ok. (it does go down smoothly)
He also stated that for a refurb master cylinder (non toyota) + labour it would come out to 250 bucks. The dealership was going to charge me 1500 for the booster pump and labour. They also advised not to used non toyota parts.
This issue does not hamper safety issues with the car. Its more of an annoyance that i'd like to take care of. I also don't want to pay 1500 for a car with 150k on it.
Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
View 14 RepliesI love this car. It's a CNG vehicle and has saved me many hours of sanity in commute traffic. I've only had it for a year. It's past life was a taxi car. It currently have close to 395k miles, and does have a few other issues (no engine light now).
The problem I have now is the front of the car starts to shake when I get the car running somewhere in the 60MPH to 65MPH range. This problem is more announce when I let go of or step the acceleration and it transitions into that speed range. The problem is dampen or less when I'm stepping on the acceleration, inside that speed range.
It's incrementally less when I'm above or below that range (+/- 5mph). The shaking and vibration sounds is almost as close to the sound that's generated if you're running the car's tire on the freeway shoulder's (california) or having a helicopter hover ontop of your car (but faster).
I just recently rotated my tires and now I have a lot of vibration while driving in the 65-75 mph range. There are some areas like around 74 mph it smooths out where I could cut a diamond on the steering wheel. Most of the time while driving in the 55 mph range I don't notice it. I had the front tires rebalanced but they didn't seem to be the problem. Where should I look next?
View 14 RepliesLast couple months, I've started to have some major vibration in the front end when reaching the 60-70 mph range. Some minor vibration in the 55-60 and 70-75 ranges, but primarily (and worse) in the 60-70 range. It only happens when I'm pressing the gas for more acceleration (particularly when I gun it), not when I'm coasting in that range. I had the tires balanced a month or so ago, so I know it's not that.
View 1 RepliesW12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
View 3 RepliesI'm getting strange vibration when I hit around 4200rpm in ever gear. Car smooths out at around 5000 rpm. Vibration feels like it's coming from the transmission but it could also be coming from the axels. Original OEM axels were taken off the car by the previous owner. What this problem may be? I don't want to bust open the transmission if I don't need to.
View 1 RepliesSo I just received my car back from my shop before this past weekend, and the drive has been quite a blast.
Currently running 7psi on a non-intercooled set-up (GT35R) using Unitronic Software, on a stock clutch. (No worries, intercooling is indefinitely in it's future. Just torn between AA and AWIC. Plus saving for that clutch.)
Unfortunately, the clutch slips nearing the end of third, and around ~4200 rpms in 4th at WOT. But then today, I thought: What if I pull the haldex fuse?
As a result, the car hauls and pulls through all gears and holds 7psi all through redline.
So, Will running without the haldex have adverse *hidden* effects towards the clutch? My theory is that taking the responsibility of the haldex off the clutch is allowing it to hold and not slip.
I am looking to verify that replacing the Transmission Range Sensor on my 2002 SE is the correct action for me to take. My symptoms include:
1) Fuse 17 keeps blowing intermittently but frequently. It has never blown in a middle of a trip. Have not determined if it is blown at end of trip or right at start of next trip.
2) All gears are highlighted (have boxes lit up on all gears) when I am in park or neutral. The correct gear is highlighted when in any of the drive gears including reverse. This symptom is constant and has been for a few months now.
Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I know there have been issues with the Electronic Throttle Control on these drive-by-wire trucks, particularly on the Super Duty trucks.
The Honda dealership read the check engine light code on my Honda 2002 Accord, that said the catalytic convertor is not operating within the efficiency range(plus the converter has a rattle in it...it is not the heat shield as it was taken off years ago). They said it was too expensive to have fixed at the dealership and to find an independent repair shop to replace the converter.
They warned me to not get the cheap universal converter as the check engine light for the converter would come back on and stay on. They said get a more expensive one but would not give any specific brand or price range and said it SHOULD keep the check engine light from coming about the converter.
I have an independent shop and they agreed about never using an universal converter. However when I press them about the $270 converter they would put on would keep the check engine light for the converter from coming on, they hesitated in assuring me it would not come on.
Honda Accord converter can be replaced with an after market converter, what did it cost, and did it keep the check engine light for the converter from coming on?
I got my 77 ford truck w/four wheel drive half ton with a np435, 351M and i was wondering if a bad or worn bearing can cause vibration. i can feel it by the pedal when i accelerate from 50 to 65. I don't know if that's my trans or maybe the pilot bearing?
View 10 RepliesI recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2014 f150 super crew 4wd. When I picked it up, I heard a humming in the front end that ended up being a bad iwe actuator. I took it to the ford dealer and they replaced it. No more humming, but now I have a very annoying vibration in my gas pedal that can also be felt in the floor board and gas pedal. I've had it aligned. I thought it might be my front driveshaft so I put it in neutral while driving and vibration is the same. It gets worse when I get up around 70mph. I also feel small jerks in the gas pedal at these speeds along with the vibration. It vibrates worse under heavy acceleration as well. Cause I can't wait to set my cruise every time I drive it bothers me that much. Only has 10,000 miles on it.
View 3 Replies2009 FX4... Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I have had the mechtronic unit replaced due to harsh shifting and the vibration was there before and after that was replaced. The drive shaft was also replaced due to a click/clinking noise and the vibration was there before and after as well. The harsh shifting and clinking noise was fixed with those repairs, but the vibration is still there. I notice it more when I am towing.
I just installed an AFE stage 2 on my 04 f150. I was driving down the freeway and I decided to step on it and it made a loud hum sound and it had a vibration I could feel through the pedal. It was so loud and aggressive I pulled off the road to see if something came apart. Everything looked ok and all my bolts and such are tight. Is this normal?
View 13 RepliesSo I have my 2000 F250 in the shop because I was feeling a funny vibration in my brake pedal. (isn't warped rotors, I know what that feels like). It also felt like the brakes were on, then would release a little, lengthening my stopping distance.
I took it to a small local shop and the guy said it sounds like the hydroboost. I told them to fix it. Next day, before they start to fix, they call and say they can't guarantee it's the hydroboost and may be the Power Steering pump.
My question is; is there a way to test it to know for sure which part is failing? How do I figure out which one is causing the problem?
If I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.
In my 2008 F150 with 108,000 miles, I am having a vibration in the brake pedal. When I am stopping or at a dead stop. I first thought it might be the rotors needing to be turned, but the vibration seems to go away when I turn off the a/c.
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