Ford - F150 :: Shaking When Truck Pulled Out Of Driveway And Began Acceleration
Sep 29, 2013
Purchased a 2000 F150 (over 200,000 miles) from a company fleet. The truck is not driven on a daily basis, only when needed to haul something to land field. One morning I had to drive the truck. When I pulled out of the driveway and began acceleration the truck began to shake violently. After some experimentation I came to the following conclusion. The vehicle starts to shake when a speed of 45 mph reached.
If I try to hold the speed between 45-55 mph the shaking continues. If I let off of the accelerator, the shaking stops, if I accelerate thru 45, the shaking stops. The shaking is not from wheels, rotors, axle etc. The check engine lite also came on during this time. When the shaking starts, if I attempt to accelerate, the truck looses power briefly then picks up. I didn't pay alot for the truck and really don't know how much I am willing to put into it. If it doesn't cost alot would like to keep the truck running.
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Pulled into my driveway one night and a get a AFS failure.
Lights work, everything functions correctly, except my headlights don't level. I've seen some threads refer to it as the "dance".
I have the light out warning on the dash and every time i start my car it says "AFS FAILURE" or something across those lines.
I replaced my headlight level sensor and made sure the level sensor is pointing the correct way (toward the driver side) and that didn't fix it.
My car is lowered, but this issue didn't happen until recently. I do also have Euro Headlights, these were installed months ago. Way before this issue came up aswell.
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I have a Jetta Mk IV, yesterday I went to go drive it and just as I pulled out of the driveway it started running rough, so I pulled back in the driveway and the coolant temperature sensor light came on, then the check engine light. and then it died. Then today I tried starting it, and it will only start and run if I have the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it runs really rough. Then it will die. I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor since the light came on. I replaced that, and it still does it. I'm leaning towards a head gasket.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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Driving on a paved road(some potholes but nothing bad) came to stop sign. After waiting for trafffic to clear, made right turn onto state highway truck began to pull to left, at first I thought i had a flat tire but every thing looked okay. Drove two miles to home, if let the steering wheel go, the truck would change lanes in about 25 feet...
2002 ford crew cab 4x4 7.3 power stroke 20k on Michelin.
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While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
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I have a 2005 f150, when my AC is on (it's summer in the south so yes it's on constantly) my truck shakes. The best way to describe it: you know when you're at an idle, and the vehicle wants to stall out and it has that shake to it? That's what my truck does when the AC is on, I mostly feel it when there is no gas applied. Also my AC makes a horrid sound when idling (like a loud pop now and then) and unless I'm driving, it won't blow cool air.Why?! Simple fix or time for a new AC?
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My F150 went the first 80,000 miles with no problem, but since that time I have a problem with warped rotors, currently 190,000. It shakes as you try to stop. I had the rotors turned. Lasted about 5000 miles and then warped again. Replaced the rotors, warped again. Turned rotors, warped again. Been driving with them warped trying to figure out what is causing them to warp. Wondering if there is something that is causing most of the braking load to be on the front brakes.
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First off, I just traded another vehicle for a 97 mountaineer, 5.0 v8 AWD with about 171k miles on it. Runs and drives real nice, but on occasion under normal acceleration i get a slight shudder when it shifts into high gear. The tranny fluid does look and smell a bit old, but not burnt. I plan on changing it if you think it would fix the problem and not cause more.
Also, I think the ball joints are shot. The camber is in on the front tires and i get some pretty good clunks when I go over bumps in the road. Steering wheel is tight. I jacked it up and tried wiggling the tires but i couldn't get them to move like that. I'm assuming ball joints still though right? And if so, how hard of a job is that for a DIY'er?
Also i noticed a bit of a whine coming from under the truck when turning into my driveway. Transfer case I'm assuming? What could cause a slight whine and how do i fix it? I plan on changing the fluid in that too.
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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I have an 09 screw, 4.6 3v, 3.55, 2wd. Last week, I noticed on the driveway a drip and run stain under the truck. I dismissed it as ac runoff. But it remained and lengthened. I got under it yesterday, and the tranny crossmember has fluid on it. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. There was no drip either, and the truck was relatively cool. Of course there is no tranny fluid dipstick to check and the tranny pan is intact. It seems to be behind the transmission towards the driveshaft.
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Recently I have been smelling exhaust fumes in the cab of my truck when at a stoplight or parked in the driveway. When driving, the smell tends to go away. This occurs with the windows up and the climate control on auto. I can also smell this when I shut down the truck and exit. I am looking for anything that may be causing this. Hoping not to have to take it to the dealer.
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Two weeks ago my front left wheel would start shaking like hell when I brake, not at first but after say may eight miles of driving. I have never been in a vehicle shaking so violently and after proceeding from a stop it would continue until it cooled down. I tore out the caliper and made sure everything was clean and lubed and also to make sure I did not put the pads on wrong. Fast forward one commute and the same crap. I could not go faster than 45 mph without feeling like it was going to disintegrate.
When I got home the damn thing was smoking. I managed to get it to the dealership this afternoon and two hours later the guy told me that the guides just needed some cleaning and grease. They did not want to charge me anything (draw your own conclusion) for it. I was told they drove it up/down hills and it was alright. I left kind of suspicious and four miles later the problem revealed itself again. My next thought it maybe axle end play, bad bearings or joints? Intermittent why? 2004 f150 lariat 4x4 ....
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302 V8. Autolite 2150 carb. Auto-tranny. My vintage Ford truck which I love has developed a problem where it idles too fast for too long after warm-up. What I mean is that it is normal when it works correctly for it to idle fast for a few minutes until it warms up, at which point the idle speed slows down to normal. The way it works when it is working correctly, after a few minutes to warm up, I step on the gas pedal briefly, and the idle speed to kicks down. That's the way it is supposed to work. It seems actually like there are actually three idle speeds when it is working correctly. Fast, not quite as fast, and normal, all accessed via the kick down operation. Working correctly, it takes maybe three minutes to kick down the two steps to the normal idle speed. Does that sound right?
Anyway, the problem is that now it stays at the highest idle speed for 15 minutes. Eventually it kicks down to normal. But the high idle speed is too much for 15 minutes. Plus as it warms up the high idle speed becomes even higher since it doesn't kick down like it should. So it becomes difficult to keep the speed below 25 mph even w/out pressing on the gas pedal. It idles at about 25 mph for 15 minutes as it warms up!
I looked at my Chilton's manual -- better than nothing, but barely -- and it mentions something about a vacuum choke kickdown, a heat riser gadget, and the auto-choke. How to test each one to find what the problem is?
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My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
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I have a 2006 F150 with about 80k miles. It has a limited slip rear end. Under mild acceleration, "sometimes" there is a muted clunk at about 40-50mph. If I accelerate harder it does not happen. I cannot get it to happen at lower speeds. I cannot tell if its the transmission or rear end.
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After truck gets warm it won't restart.
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