Ford - Focus :: 2010 SE Loses Sync Intermittently
Aug 30, 2013
I have a '10 Focus SE I got used about three months ago. I updated the Sync software to the then-current version. I connect my iPhone for both phone and music via Bluetooth.
Every now and then, with no pattern I can determine, when I get into the car and turn it on, the music system immediately plays the FM radio instead of connecting to my phone and playing the music where it left off when I last got out of the car.
I am turning Bluetooth on on the iPhone before I get in the car, and I'm turning it off after I turn off the car and exit it, so it's not a matter of BT from the phone not being available.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus SE with DOHC that is losing power and sputtering when it gets hot after driving for 30 min or more. If I shut the car off and right back on going down the highway it will be fine for 5-10 min and then start sputtering again. If the car is not hot this does not happen and I have a new fuel filter and coil pack as those are the two main things that I could think of. I have seen intake valve seat and fuel pump as the two most common fixes with similar circumstances.
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Occasionally my 2004 Ford Focus will not start. I put in the keys and turn them. The lights and radio fire up and there is a click, but the engine won't turn over. To resolve this, I remove the key, open the hood, loosen the battery cable on the positive terminal, wiggle the cable around, and then tighten it back down. I then go back in the car and turn the key. The engine starts. Is there a bad connection somewhere? Should I replace the battery cable?
Long version of the problem: I've been having these problems intermittently for almost a year now. After the first or second time I had the car towed to a local shop. They couldn't figure out what the problem was because the car was starting just fine at the shop. The mechanic said that some of the cables might have shifted around in the towing process. So I tossed an adjustable wrench in the glove box in preparation for the next time. The next day, it happened again. Through some quick trial and error, I narrowed down the problem to be the positive battery cable (or something that's connected to it).
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I bought my girlfriend a 2000 Ford Focus with 150k Miles on it to drive for the summer in Oregon. The car is physically in great condition with no noticeable leaks on it. After a week or so of driving, my girlfriend complained that a couple of times she would be driving the car and while going up a hill "nothing would happen" sometimes when she punched the accelerator. I asked her if the engine revolutions were going up and if the engine made a "vroom" sound (to try to see if the transmission was slipping) and she said it did not.
On a long trip driving from Seattle to Portland, she was driving again and we were climbing a long hill and she suddenly complained that "nothing was happening" when she punched the accelerator. She panicked and pulled off to the side of the road quickly. There was no shaking or vibration. I did not hear the engine wind up when this happened... so I am assuming the tach was not going up when she depressed the gas pedal. I opened the hood and looked inside and seeing nothing obvious, I switched to the drivers' side. No codes were thrown. I drove the car up the rest of the hill and to a flat area and we let the car cool off for a few minutes. I drove the car for the next 75 miles to Portland without event. When we got to her grandparents house, I changed the spark plugs (which were pretty fouled up), and changed the fuel filter (which actually looked pretty new.) and it seemed to satisfy her for awhile. Being that I havent experienced the issue, I just assumed she is not used to driving a small hatchback with a fairly wimpy engine.
In the meantime I had the entire front end redone, control arms, etc and alignment because she had had a slight shake...which is unrelated here but i figured I'd mention it. So, the other night she calls me on the side of the road, slightly shaken. Her latest incident was as such: at the bottom of an on-ramp to the highway, she punched the accelerator and "nothing happened" when she hit the pedal. This time the check engine light briefly came on, and the "OIL" light came on. She was able to pull off to the side of the road somehow and then pull to an exit. She turned the car off and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Here's the weird part: She started it up and claims she put it in "Drive" and pressed the gas pedal and nothing happened and the car actually started creeping backwards. She hit the brake and turned the car off. She started the car and drove away 5 minutes later without incident and drove it 20 minutes home. She said her gas was very low when this happened, close to the gas light coming on.
She took the car to a reliable mechanic in seattle the next day, and they said there was no issues and they thought the car was actually in great shape. Unfortunately no codes were logged and no codes have been logged at all! My only other weird observation about the car is that the tach seems to fall kind of quickly after acceleration... almost comically compared to my volkswagen 1.8 which has a gentle rise and fall to it. It kind of bounces up and down but the ride is smooth. Random, but i figured i'd mention it
Should she just make sure to keep the gas level above low/empty?Should a fuel pressure check be on the docket? The previous owner claimed the timing belt only had 25k on it, but he could have been lying.
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I have 2006 Ford Focus that was recently in a small rear end crash. The airbags went off. The only damage was a front bumper and hood and plastic grill. The computer had to be reset by Ford dealer for the airbag. Since the accident the front brakes intermittently apply, not enough to slam the car to a stop, but enough to slow it down and limit acceleration. We have replaced the rotors, calipers and front brake lines. Problem still exists. Ford says the computer shows nothing (duh) and my mechanic of 20 years doesn't know what else to do.
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My 1999 Mazda Protegé has the hiccups ...every now and then it loses power for a fraction of a second. It lasts just long enough to feel it clearly, but it's gone before I can think about it. Very distinct sensation, but it certainly doesn't push me against the seat belt. It's been doing this for over a year (about 5-7,000 miles). No Check Engine Light has appeared at any time. The timing belt was replaced a few thousand miles back.
Yes, I've had it to a mechanic, a trusted local one. I even left it with him for several days. The car won't hiccup for him. I sometimes notice it around town, but I notice it more when driving on the highway (which has probably been over half my mileage in the past year), but I'm still disappointed that it won't do it for him. He suspects a spark plug wire -- he says it's probably only one cylinder based on my description -- but doesn't want to start replacing the wires if he can't diagnose it.
Recommendations? Should I just replace the wires and figure if that doesn't do it, it's part of the cost of diagnosis? (This much I should be able to do myself.) Should I try something else? Actually, as I think about it, he could have been encouraging me to replace the wires myself.
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I have a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback Lxi, 180,000 miles, automatic, one owner, always excellent care (very recently new spark plugs, new air filter, new oil and filter, and several years ago new Pirelli tires). Lately, while driving, it intermittently loses power, like it's going to stall, but never does. I accelerate to recover. Years ago I used to hear about vapor lock. Last week I took it to a Honda dealer. They had no diagnostic machines for "old" cars and had no clue what was causing this. Most of the time, the car drives beautifully, but it's scary thinking it's going to quit and I'll be stranded on the side of the road.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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I have bought a new key for my 2010 Corolla. But i can't seem to find a reliable source that has the process in order to sync my new key to my car. Does what the process is to sync my new key?
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I am a proud owner of a 2010 Lexus LS460. Before that I had a 2005 LS430 for 5 years. Finally signed up for the forums and I am excited to be part of this community. I linked my garage opener with the HomeLink in my Lexus. I believe I might have not done it correctly the first time and I left my car. When I came back my car barely turned on (took about 20 seconds). I drove to work and then I was unable to start the car at all. I jumped the car and it started right away. I proceeded to finish the HomeLink sync correctly. I woke up today again and my car will not start, I had to get it jumped again and this time it took about 10 seconds to start.
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I just gonna buy a new car. How this two car compared? I have test two cars, and like ford's handling, while Prius drives like a toy. Also ford seems safer than Toyota.
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I own a 2010 Ford Focus (compact sedan) and had to purchase a set of new tires. I went to a retail chain store that I've never been to before. The salesman suggests a set of 195/60R15 Trazanos. I drive home on a side street about 5 minutes away. Seems fine. The next morning I enter the expressway and there is a slight curve to right when entering, the car begins to feel like it's sliding almost like on ice (yet it's 75 degrees out). I begin to accelerate, my car begins to sway and slide. It felt like I was fishtailing all over the place. It scared me enough to pull of the expressway.
I immediately go to the place that I purchased them. They look at them and tell me that I should have had "H" rated tires put on it. He says my previous tires had a thicker side wall. So, they put a different set of "higher end" tires (195/60R15 Toyo Extensas) for the same price. I make the guy go out on the expressway with me to test it and it seems ok, but I didn't get to try it on a curve at that point. On my way home, I still feel a slight slide on curves, but not like before. It's windy today, so I will take it back out on the expressway tomorrow. I know nothing about tires, so they could be feeding me a line of b.s. Can it really take up to 500 miles for the tires to be "broken in"? My car drove perfectly fine before I had these tires put on.
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Car is approaching 100,000 miles. While driving today I noticed a rhythmic hiss coming from the dash when the AC ran. No temperature difference between AC and vent after a little while. Is there anything I can look for before I take it into the shop? I will take it in and have them put die in to find potential leak before we start with the more expensive repairs, but would like to save where I can.
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13 Elantra sedan. When I turn the key to on (engine not running) The stereo turn on normally.(NON -NAV) Start the car and it turns off, no screen, no audio, just like i hit the power button. Load up the electrical system, max A/C, headlights, Etc. It turns back on like nothing happened. Voltage on the battery is 14.3 with no load and right around 14.0 when everything is loaded and i finally get it to turn back on. Do these head units have an over voltage protection? 14.3 doesn't seem that high to me.
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While driving my lights flash like a strobe light and I can see this at night. The. The car loses electrical power for 1 sec and then all okay. In the morning when I start the car I get ESP errors whilst idling, I then turn the car off and try to start it again and everything is completely dead!
When connecting jumper cables then trying again it works, the. I don't have a problem for about 3 days the. The same thing happens. Battery is brand new, had it at the dealers and errors are intermittent electrical errors but doesn't say where.
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my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
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Having issue with XM Radio reception? My 2013 RX 350 loses signal with even minor obstructions. This is my second RX with satellite radio and 5th car and this model is terrible. I have driven behind friends with 2015 and 2010 models comparing when signals are lost and mine is significantly worse.
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Had my 2011 to the dealer multiple times for this problem. If I use a thumb drive or iPod in the usb drive sometimes it will lock up the Sync system. The voice command button wont work. The phone button wont work. I have tried 3 different thumb drives as well as an iPod. It is an intermittent problem. The system never has a problem unless I use the usb port.
I thought I had it worked out by removing the thumb drive when I turned the truck off and reinstalling it after the truck was running but this morning it crapped out again using this method. I thought (so did the dealer)starting the truck with the drive installed was the issue but it is not. Dealer already replaced the Sync module. Did not work. Something in the usb port or connection.
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I was just looking to hook up my 2nd usb on my new 2016 SD, but when i looked on the box there is only one usb on the board. My 2014 had 2 usb ports. Do i need to upgrade module or can i somehow split single usb into 2?
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I have a new issue now with my 2011 F150 FX4. The sync stopped working the day before. I got nothing when I pushed the Media button. No phone, directions, menu. Then it started working for a while yesterday then stopped, Later on it started working now it nothing.
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I've been having some issues shifting and been paying more attention to the gauges. On the first start of the morning since its gotten colder, the trans temp gauge gets warm quite quick just idling and the water temp goes no where for quite a while driving or idling.
The truck essentially doesn't shift normally until the water temp is up, over revs, and shifts are much more abrupt and at higher rpm's (like shift pressure is higher if there is such a thing).
My uneducated thinking I think the sensors are reversed, I would expect the water temp to go up while idling and not the trans temp.
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