I have a 1989 Ford mustang 4 cylinder. The return line tofuel tank is leaking. I am wondering if I need to treat the return line as a "high Pressure line" or if I can repair with regular rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
View 4 RepliesI have a problem. I have a nylon return fuel line that is SHOOTING out fuel at the quick connect at the fuel pump. See video: [URL] ....
How do I repair? I think the o-rings in the quick connect went bad. I'm thinking to dip the connector in hot water to soften up the nylon, take the old connector off, and put a new connector on. What size connector I need?
New to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
I have a 89 ford mustang with 4 cylinder. After being stored for the winter I noticed anti-freeze leaking from drain tube below heater core (small amount). I am not looking forward to replacing the heater core in this car! Any reason this happened after the car sitting in storage all winter??? or just a coincidence??
View 7 RepliesMy HPOP was leaking so I pulled it our last weekend along with the fuel bowl and put all new seals in. All my previous leaks are sealed but now this stupid fuel bowl is being a major PIA.
The return line coming off the FPR will not stop leaking! It was slowly dripping when I first replaced the bowl and I thought the leak was between the fuel bowl and FPR housing. I ordered new rings and put it back together.... still leaking.
I wrapped a towel around the fuel fitting and realized that is were the leak is actually coming from. I went to the parker store today and got 3 new 60VL5 sleeves. The first one tore while sling over the fuel line (I was using 2cycle oil as lubricate). The second one leaked even worse.
In a desperate attempt to stop the leak, I slid the sleeve onto the fuel line as far back as it would go. I inserted the fuel line into the bowl and then put a thin coat of rtv on the exposed fuel line. I slid the sleeve over the rtv and then put a light coat of the outside of the sleeve. I tightened the nut up and am waiting for things to dry before trying again.
Why is this fitting giving me such a hard time? I've pulled the FPR housing and it is not cracked so I don't know what the deal is.
Someone stopped by the shop today with a problem with the power steering leaking. I checked it out and the return line from the rack to the pump is rusted through and needs to be replaced. The pressure line looks just as bad and will develop a leak soon too, if not replaced. While chatting the customer revealed that while stuck with no power steering, he put motor oil into the reserve tank because that's all he had. It did get him home. My plan is to replace the pressure line first, then cut the return line below the car (where it can be accessed better). Then use my evacuator.
hooked to the return line from the rack. Start the siphoning and fill the reserve tank with the proper fluid to flush everything out. I figured that it would flush the reserve tank, pump, pressure line, and rack. Then replace the return line and top off the tank. Will I have to have the engine running while I flush, and do I need to work the steering wheel left and right too.
I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
View 3 RepliesOk. I have a 2015 6.7 power stroke and my fuel return line clip keeps falling off. And goes into limp mode. It has happen twice and in come up with code p0088. And I push it back on start the truck and it is fine. But idk why it is doing it
View 1 RepliesHave a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
View 11 RepliesI have a '89 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L with the AX5 transmission. I noticed over time I had to push the clutch pedal down more to make it work. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was empty. I filled it but the pedal had no pressure. I looked at bleed the line protruding out from the clutch housing and noticed a fluid trail on it and inside the clutch housing. The rubber insulator at the opening was missing and suspect corrosion and any movement on the line cracked it where it connects inside. I am ready to junk this vehicle because it is rusted pretty bad, but thought I'd ask before I do.
View 3 RepliesMy '10 Golf TDI started leaking gasoline this morning, found smallish puddle in the garage. Looked underneath and there was definitely fuel on the underside of the tank. Moved the car into the driveway so the leaking fuel can evaporate.
Not sure what happened. I did hit something on the highway yesterday, a piece of tire from a semi went underneath the car. Of course it's been really hot 100+ deg lately. Maybe a fitting has come loose?
I'm not going to risk driving it, but can't do anything about it until monday. I'll call the shop and see what they recommend, tow or drive.
Couple of years ago I installed a fuel pressure gauge. I wrapped the fittings with teflon tape. Well within about a year it started leaking. So I shopped around and used Permatex Permashield fuel resistant sealant on the fittings. It says diesel resistant on the package. Couple months later leaking again. So I take it apart again, clean every fitting and follow the instructions to the letter. Well its leaking again. What will resist diesel fuel under 55 psi pressure. All the fittings seem to be pipe thread.
View 7 RepliesWhen my 1998 Mustang has been stopped and started numerous times in a short period--say, like when you're running errands--the idle will sometimes (not always!) get really low (below 1000 RPM), and will stall out no matter how much gas you give it. It will then refuse to start for about 30 minutes. Then it'll start back up and run fine for another week until the whole thing happens again. The car runs fine in all other respects, and again, it's seemingly random, and only after the engine has been stopped and started several times. It won't for example, stall out first thing in the morning.
View 2 RepliesI noticed something strange the other day that my 89 GT can be started without the key ! Everything works as it should but you do not have to put the key in the ignition lock switch. I did have the ignition switch replaced many years ago when Ford had the recall due to a possible fire.. I believe the switch that was replaced is located down under the base of the steering column and activated with a rod from the column key lock.. Is it hard to replace this column lock switch ?
I would rather do it myself instead of paying a locksmith to do it..I do have an anti-start security system on it and when you enable it it locks out the ignition. To start it you have to enter a certain 5 number code for it to crank. I had this car since new and only 117k on the clock and runs like new. Where can I obtain a replacement "key lock assembly " ? This is the original key lock on the column..Just worn out I guess . Only thing I replaced on this car was a new clutch due to a bad throw out bearing making noise at 80k and a water pump and serpentine belt at 90k and a noisy fuel pump. Still has the original prone to failure ignition control module.
The fuel line on the passenger side under the turbo that leads to the head is leaking looks like from rubbing on the pedestal, anyone ever just cut it and throw in some fuel line and hose clamps?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 V10 CC 4x4 long bed. The rubber fuel line that has a quick disconnect to attach to the fuel filter along frame is leaking. This is on the filter side going to engine. Ford tells me fuel line not available. Dorman products tech assist can't tell me which connector of there's will fit my truck.
View 2 Replies2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
View 4 RepliesI am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
I posted a few weeks ago about a problem I fixed with the MAF ( leak after the MAF ). 89 GT 111k miles, ( car restored to showroom condition ) Last week I pull to a stop light and idle is at 2000 RPM. Shut engine off and restarted and all was well, and idle back to about 800. I know something was wrong before hand as the car was pulling without my foot of the throttle. This happened again when I pulled into my driveway so let it run like this and when I pulled the plug on the IAC and idle dropped to about 600.
I took the IAC off the TB and cleaned it which did not look too bad. Installed IAC but left it disconnected and set up the idle on the TB according to the shop manual to 750 RPM. Shut engine off connected the IAC and followed the instructions in the manual to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, letting it idle for 2 minutes shut engine off then restart.
Well it was good for 2 days then started the same thing, 2000 rpm at idle..for the time being I have the IAC disconnected and set the idle up on the TB to about 850 RPM.
I have been driving the car like this for 4 days now and no running problems what so ever. Funny thing is no check engine light and no stored codes during this entire episode..Had my friend with an earlier OBD scan for codes and clean.
I hate shot gunning parts by replacing the IAC. Does it hurt running the car with the IAC disconnected or should I foot the bill and get a new one ? and hope that is the problem..or could something else be causing this ?
I checked for any vacuum leaks using my propane torch no change in idle. IAC problem on 89 Mustang GT 5.0 manual trans.?
I have a 2003 Santa Fe that had a corroded leaking power steering return line. I want to replace both the high pressure and the low pressure lines coming from the steering box. The high pressure removed quite easily. I cannot get the low pressure out. Everything is broken free. Is there a trick to this? I want to see how it comes out so I can put the new one in same way.
View 3 RepliesLooking for the instructions on how to remove the lower power steering belt and replace it. We recently discovered the leak and I can't find any information on it.
View 1 Replies