I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 103,000 miles. It shudders when I accelerate; sometimes one, two or three shakes. This usually occurs around 35-40 mph while I am going uphill (never while going downhill). I always use overdrive, but I tried it in drive and also felt it then.
View 1 RepliesI've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
We have a '96 Subaru Legacy Wagon with about 175K on it. Bought used. Ran OK for 2 years and suddenly we get this: going up a hill, even a slight, steady grade for more than a block or two, the car starts shuddering...power ebbs...car slows...check engine light flashes madly...it turns into a cartoon car with tongue dragging out, then dies if you don't pull over and let it pant like a dog. If it dies,one can restart it in half a minute or so.
Our excellent mechanic cleaned engine, valves, checked fuel-related stuff, replaced things, even worked on it for free because he was so stumped. Consulted w/worldwide Subaru experts. Conclusion: some cylinder/valve or something has sort of carved itself a new notch and so doesn't seat properly, evinces itself under pressure of grade or hill, would cost 2-3K to fix...an amount we simply don't have.
I'm doomed to drive this thing for the next 2-3 years, finding grade-less routes in my hilly Northwest city--not an easy task, but got to keep it chugging. Works beautifully on the flat (should I move to Kansas?). Will happily charge up a one-block hill as long as you then go sideways on the flat for a block or two. Big Sigh Here. Whether it could be some other problem? One website yaks about catalytic converters breaking up and blocking lines.
I have a 2000 ford taurus V6. It sputters going up hills and at stop lights. I've serviced the motor and fixed two cracked vacuum hoses. No engine lights are on. Not sure what to do next....
View 14 RepliesMy mother has a 2003 Ford Taurus. I really hate this car, but she wants it fixed. It sputters in drive when your taking off and it barely goes up hills. There is no sputter in idle or park. I put on new fuel filter and spark plugs on it and cleaned the idle air control. What should I try next?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2008 Saturn Outlook, 88k miles that shudders at 35mph when accelerating. Does not matter if the car is hot or cold. This problem (there are others) started after I had my tires aligned. It does not pull to the left or right it just shakes and shudders at 35 mph and goes away. I thought maybe it was the spark plugs, but darn if this stupid car company did not build this so you (the regular folkd) can change their spark plugs. Have to remove the exhaust manifold etc. or pay a mechanic to replace them. After this started I had to have my water pump replaced, while it was in the shop I had them run a diagnostic and nothing shows up except the water pump issue and that my timing cover needs to be resealed.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2005 Toyota Echo, manual 5 speed, with 160K miles. Everything works fine except for when you are accelerating (can happen in any gear) and mainly uphill. I assume the primary condition is when the car is being pushed or under more load than just cruising, anyway, it will will make a low grumbling noise and simultaneously shudders as if it is going to stall. This happens in a jerky fashion and doesn't last very long but consistently under aforementioned conditions. We have 3 Echo's by the way, all manual shift (Echo friendly)...
View 4 Repliesi own a 2005 f150 supercrew fx4. Today as I was attempting to go out of town I was accelerating up hill and heard a noise, sounded like air coming through a window seal or scratching, which is not the problem. The noise only came on when i increased the acceleration, there is no power loss, the truck still accelerated properly and had good power, just that the noise came on. so i returned home only to hear the problem on flat land also, when pressing the gas to accelerate. The truck seems to idle fine and have no problem with low acceleration.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 Ford Taurus SES 3.0L 4v 6-cyl is sort of lurching, especially when I'm accelerating around 30-35 mph and my rpms are at 1000-1500. My mechanic just replaced a cracked coil pack, which seemed to work a little but has not eliminated the problem. The engine is also surging when I'm parked with my foot on the brake. What might be going on?
View 4 RepliesOur 2008 2.0T Variant with 70K miles runs fine, except while running fully warmed up on the highway. Then, at cruising speed, the engine shudders if you try anything more than gentle acceleration. If you push deliberately on the gas at about 1,500 rpm, the engine shudders, fails to accelerate, and the MIL flashes. This has been going on for a few months.
Wifey is about to go on a road trip and, although she's adjusted to this behavior, I don't wanted her stranded somewhere. The engine is throwing code P0301 (got it read at AutoZone), Cylinder 1 Misfire.
I'm wondering why it only misfires under these conditions, and not, say, while accelerating off the line or while idling.
Any tips? I've already put a bottle of Techron through the tank. Car has had all recall/service bulletin work done, which as I remember included a coil pack recall a few years ago.
I wonder if getting the car into the stealership before her trip is a "must." (I don't have my own scanning tool in order to sequentially troubleshoot coil packs. I can at least check plug wiring.
The night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
View 8 Replies2010 Hyundai Accent GLS (automatic)
Just noticed the last few days that my car has developed a shake when accelerating, but stops after a certain speed. It isn't bad yet, but when I started going up a hill today it was significantly worse. The entire car started shaking, but stop after the car leveled out.
I just put in a new front left and right axle two weeks ago, would that have caused anything ?
I purchased my 2014 GX a couple of months ago and already logged in about 2K. The car has been great so far. The only thing that I'm not so used to, is a strange feeling when accelerating or going uphill (even slightly) - I can feel the engine roar(?) through the steering wheel - I can't really describe it well - it's not a vibration per se, but more like you feel the engine working harder than usual through the slight vibration of the steering wheel. This is my first V8 car - I used to have a V6 Acura MDX before, and never felt that. There is a good chance this is normal for a V8 based truck, but I wanted to get others' input.
View 9 Replies1999 saab 9 3 loss of power going up hill and when accelerating, have had the catalytic converter replaced, the turbo thingy checked and blown out, the muffler checked and found no problem, It has been put on the machine at 2 different dealers and no problem found...
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 GMC Suburban just started "catching" when accelerating uphill and going 50+ mph. Does not occur any other time.
View 4 Replies2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
This has happened five times within the past couple of months. I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT. In all cases, I was accelerating while going uphill. I am in Chicago so by uphill, think expressway ramp. The Charging System Light and warning bell come on for about a second and then shuts off. When I get home, I check the battery. In all cases, it is fully charged. The battery is six months old. What could be causing this?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2015 Sonata SE 2.4L with 15k miles. Sometimes when accelerating, and almost always when accelerating uphill, the vehicle makes a noise that I can best describe as sounding like a grumbling or rattle from the engine. It almost has a "diesel engine" sound to it. I have noticed this going back to when the vehicle was brand new, but I have recently noticed it more.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
I am hearing a quiet knock from my 2013 accent, especially when accelerating or going uphill on low RPM. I am getting about 34 MPG after burning a tank of regular gas (87 octane rating) on my commute which is about 2/3rds 50-70mph freeway and 1/3rd stop and go traffic. I usually get more MPG than what the EPA rating is, so that number seems a little bit low to me, but I just got the car used, so I don't know what's "Normal" for it. Idle is pretty quiet though.
I would give a video where you can hear it, but honestly it is pretty hard to hear from inside the car. I generally have to be near a wall with the windows down or something to be able to hear it clearly.
2012 Accent 1.6L GDI Engine Rattle/Knock/Buzz
Also, there are no lights showing on the dashboard besides the ECO light since I have been running the car in that mode. Is it possible that there could be codes that might give more information even though nothing is showing on the dashboard?
I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?