Headlights - Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1997 Chevy - No High Beams
Mar 27, 2011
I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
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Mar 27, 2011
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I recently installed new halo HID headlights in my 2003 f150 with HID bulbs and ballast the passenger side worked and the drivers side didn't nth lights wired exactly the same. I switched everything from the passenger to the drivers side still nothing I switched everything back to passenger side and they don't work now. I tired regular bulbs in the passenger side an it worked then on the drivers side and it worked for a split second and went out and then I retried t on the passenger side and it worked for a split second and went out a now neither are working. I checked all the fuses and their good. What the problem could be?
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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So I bought an 01 GTI last week with a decent amount of things pre-modified including a Jetta front end swap? Anyway the guy I bought it from knew absolutely nothing about what had been done to the car other than the fact that there was an HID kit installed and it was set up to run high beams only.
I figured I'd remove the HID's until i drop some cash on a pair of nice projector housings. I removed them and plugged up some nice sylvania bulbs as per the OEM standard 9007, and figured I'd have no issues... They are still stuck on high beam only... What could be causing this?
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I recently purchased a 1994 Chevy Corsica that is in excellent shape for the year with one exception. I can't get the high beams to come on. When I pull back on the turn signal lever, nothing happens. I know that most of them make a "click" noise when you pull on them, but this one doesn't. Is the high beam switch a part of the turn signal switch that is in the steering column? I am not sure what else to try.
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I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
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my 97 chevy blazer has a lot of cranking first start in the day. I changed the rotor and distributor cap but I don't smell any fuel then all fo asudden it will start. I am wondering is it a fuel relay problem, a fuel filter, or some sort of sensor. when it does start it is very smooth running no shaking or hesitation full of power for the rest of the day starts and stops erands . is it worth buying a plug in code gadget and will this problem show up as a code.
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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I have a '97 Chev Blazer. I had transmission rebuilt. Not even a week after having this done, I start hearing a sound (that literally sounds like an airplane) coming from the front of the car. It ONLY happens when the car is going 45+ mph. When I slow down it gets louder & then you hear a "klunk' when you come to a complete stop. It then will stop until you get back up to that speed again. What in the world this could be? Someone suggested a 4WD problem. It is not the wheel bearings. I had new tires put on and checked right after this problem started. Could it have anything at all to do with the transmission that they rebuilt?
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I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. I have had issues where I could not start my truck and determined it could be the battery. After checking alternator, battery, and starter I was told that all were good. Cleaning terminals did not fix problem. I got a new battery. So I have determined that a power drain is going on somewhere. I have now found that when I shift the transmission from drive to reverse or vice versa that the rear hatch window comes open. As I shift the gear I hear the latch popping behind me. Now I have determined that there is a short somewhere and this could be the cause of my power drain. What I need to know is where to start looking for the default and how to fix my problem.
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I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.