Honda - Accord :: 1989 - Exhaust Smoke And Engine Running Rough
Feb 13, 2012
The problem only occurs on a cold start. I put the key in and start the motor. It starts fine. It runs fine for about three(3) seconds and then the RPM's start to dive (I have to give it gas to keep it from dying). The exhaust begins to put out quite a bit of smoke and the engine runs really really really rough,... kinda like it has a heavy cam in it.
After a few minutes of this exhaust smoke and rough running, the engine of course is warming up. The RPM's start to come up on its own, the exhaust smoke disappears and the really really really rough idle (not really an idle because I have to give it gas to prevent the motor from dying) disappears and the car idles perfectly.This cold start problem also uses up a noticeable amount of gasoline.
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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This S10 has 4 wheel drive and the V6 engine and has 88,000 miles on it. Just about everything except the engine has been replaced because it was a work and plow car and took a beating. It is a great plow car, by the way. Recently a cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust when you start the engine that has been sitting overnight. Mechanic says it is just old, but someone said that replacing the umbrella seals might do the trick. Stopped at my local auto parts store and they had never heard of umbrella seals.
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i have a chevy venture and it was running just fine untill this morning it started to have a good amount of smoke coming from the exhaust and is running rough i took it to the autozone and had the codes checked since i let someone borrow my code reader but when i went there and had it done i got 5 codes out of it and they are....
p0300
p0301
p0463
p1106
p1189
What happened to it since it was running just fine all yesterday and before...
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My car was running rough, with white smoke and strong gas smell coming from exhaust. It died out on me a few times as if it was not getting enough acceleration. Well, I coded it and said misfire cylinder 3 and 4. I also tried to shut down 3 and 4, but did not shut down. I switched 3 and 4 with 1 and 2, still did not shut down cylinders 3 and 4. Engine coils are good, engine module was tested and passed twice. Ok, fuel injectors 3 and 4 were leaky and I changed them out. New spark plugs and boots. New oil and filter..(There was gas in my oil and oil in my air filter.) With the new parts....my car sounds soooo much better!!! still a little rough, does not bog down, but it still has the strong gas smell and white smoke from exhaust..(gas smell soo bad I had to open all doors to the garage!!) What else could be wrong?!?! I'm getting frustrated!! It also has NOT ever over heated, does not run high.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord Ex that began to run very rough when cold. After warming up it seemed fine. Now the car runs rough whether hot or cold. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. The cap, rotor, and wires all appear to be good.
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Why would my 92 honda accord run rough when it shift into overdrive.
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Have a 1996 Honda Accord that had a tune up ( new plugs, wires etc). also had a leak in a radiator hose fixed. About a month later, the engine started to over heat. Fluid in radiator was very low, but no physical leak. Filled it up and in 3 days radiator is low again. This time I noticed a soft brown buildup around the radiator cap. I checked the oil filler cap to see if the underside was caramel color ( head gasket leak), but the cap was clean. Now, it is running rough and will not idle when I come to a stop. Can't figure out what is going on!
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2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.
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Yesterday after I turned off my car I got out and saw that the car was still running. This lasted a minute or so that seemed like an hour or so. I got back in the car, turned the key to start it again, and then turned it off and it stayed off. What could cause that in a 1997 honda accord ex.
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Every time we have the oil changed on our car, the car smells like cigarettes. Today I noticed smoke coming from the hood when I parked it. My husband says that it is caused by oil dripping on the engine block, that this happens to all Honda Accords, and that it is safe. Is it safe? Smoke coming from the hood seems scary. Engine oil is highly flammable, no?
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1989 Honda Accord DX .. I have 2 problems.
Problem 1: the car will not idle with the ac on, goes dead.
Problem 2: the tank has a capacity of 15.9 gal. But after 10 gal. have been used, I have to put gas in for the car to run.
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I started the car the other day and it was running really rough and engine light was on. I started pulling the spark plug wires and pulling #3 didn't make any difference in terms of decreasing performance where the others all did.
I've replaced the plug, and distributor cap. I've also confirmed with the plug out of the block that it is firing.
I'm not sure at this point what to look at next. This happened overnight, not gradually over time, and apart from running rough the engine isn't making any noises which based on sound, and how fast it happened doesn't make me think its a scoring/compression issue.
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I've got a 2002 Accord with a 4-cylinder engine with 90,8xx miles. For a while now, its been pretty rough and buzzy (not as glass smooth as it once was). Nothing seems out of the ordinary and everything seems fine otherwise, but just the other day, I stopped at a red light and I couldn't feel the engine. I thought I stalled, but I looked at the gauges to see that it was indeed running, but as smooth as melted butter (It hasn't run like that since the car was new!). After making it back home, the car was back to its old rough and "buzzy" self. So, my question is: Is there anything that I can do to return the engine to its glass-smooth idle? Its been tuned up with new plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap, but (all with oem parts too). I had almost forgotten how nice and refined this car was!
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My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
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'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord with about 170k miles on it. Lately, I've noticed that the temperature gauge creeps up to about 3/4 of the way to max when I'm driving in heavy traffic and running the air conditioner. This is the only time it goes past the midpoint, and it usually starts going up after maybe 15-20mn of sitting in traffic. If I turn the A/C off, the temperature immediately starts going back down to normal. Also, when traffic is flowing at normal speeds, I can have the a/c on for hours with no issues. The air conditioning itself is also pretty ineffective in heavy traffic situations. It gets very cold when I'm moving at a decent speed, but is pretty weak at low speeds. I just had the radiator replaced about six months ago, and it doesn't seem to be a coolant issue. What the issue could be?
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Own a 2000 Accord EX; 100k...runs great and smooth 99.9% of the time. However every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so it starts, but sounds and feels like its firing on 3 cyl...will die if I try to put in gear, or take foot off accelerator. If I shut it off and try starting it again same thing will happen. However if I let it sit awhile (sometimes one hour sometimes next day) it will start smoothly and run beautifully. Problem seems unrelated to temperature, weather, time since last use, stage of the moon, engine temp, parked on hill or flat road. or who tries to start the car...
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I have an 89 accord dx. That i just recently replaced the starter. and since then its been difficult to start. I have to pump the gas and hold the ignition. I also replaced the fuel pump not too long ago and the battery, also the fuel relay. have also gave a tune up so new plugs and wires and air filter. the only thing havent replaced is the fuel filter but it started like this right after i replaced the starter.
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My GX had developed yet another issue. To start off my car has an exhaust leak presumably at the head. Thats what i been told. This condition would throw a P0430 code ( catalyst system efficiency below ) once or twice a week, which id just erase with my plug in tool. Im not sure if the new developed issue is related to it, but now the engine is running rough especially noticeable between 1000-2300 rpm. Feels like misfire. When driving i can feel a drone or a frequent shake if rpms are in that range or when unloading the motor and rpms are dropping. No codes! Timing belt was changed at 90k miles car has 150k now. Not sure if its due for another one now and this can be the cause.
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How many O2 sensors does a 2.3 fi 4 cyl. have. I think just one on the manifold, but I'm not completely sure. Engine is running very rough and seems to miss at low RPMs, has no power and drinks gas like crazy!!! Emissions light is on on the dash. I'm thinking O2 sensor......tried replacing, but couldn't get enough torque on the sensor socket wrench to loosen, may be rusted.
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