Honda - Accord :: 1999 - Timing Belt Is Broken
Apr 5, 2011
1999 Honda Accord EX, 224K miles, 4 cylinder. Timing belt broke yesterday and ruined some exhaust valves. Also needs new radiator. Should I spend quoted approx $3500 for fixed cylinder head and valves, 30K mile check (plugs, valve adj etc), new radiator, might also include piston rings, not sure? Completely trust the mechanic. Other recent work already done is one new front wheel bearing and axle, new bearing boots on both sides, oxygen sensor, new clutch a year ago. Interior/exterior are in good shape. How many more miles am I likely to get on this engine if I have the work done? Will I likely need ball joints replaced soon? Anything else I should be considering?
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 with 101,000 miles - I am the second owner and the car was meticulously maintained and garage kept by the original owners. I need to have the timing belt replaced and am wondering if I should have the water pump and/or other parts replaced during this repair? Economic prudence is of the essence.
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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I have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
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I have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
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I took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
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2.5 Litre ... Okay, I've done this on other cars, both Fords without a problem but now I'm stuck on the no start situation. I have spark and my fuel pressure is 60 psi. About to do a compression test. Only issue with replacing the belt is that no matter how many times I try removing and installing it I'm always 1/2 tooth off after rotating the engine a couple of times but that shouldn't be enough for a complete no start. Tried starting fluid. Replaced cam sensor. new plugs. checked firing order. I have spark at #1 according to my test lamp which plugs inline.
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My dad changed the timing belt on my 99 CR-V in August and he had some trouble getting it in time (he had to tear down and put it back together 3 times!). Sometime after the timing belt/water pump/spark plug change, I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel while at a stop and a loss of MPG (went from getting 24 mpg to 22.7).
It did not happen immediately after the timing belt change (or at least i dont think it did) so i thought the mpg loss might be due to the changing weather and the vibration coming from a motor mount that i knew was broken, but I got the motor mount fixed and it did not do anything. I think that the vibration has gotten worse, but it seems to be at its worst when the car is really cold. (this morning the temp. was 9 degrees and it vibrated harder than it ever has).
The vibration only happens when the car is in park or at a stop, and it goes away when i accelerate, even if I only accelerate a little bit. I have not noticed a loss in power, or any sluggishness in acceleration. I have tried to research this, and I read something about the drive belt being out of time, but I'm not savvy with cars so I just don't know.
What could be the cause, do I HAVE to get it fixed, and what do you think a reasonable cost to repair is?
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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I recently purchased 2003 gti with a broken timing belt i bought a reman cylinder head did the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. I read the service manual and many forums before setting the timing. I got it all set and back together it runs great at the low end but it feels like when it starts to build boost pressure it stops making power. Would i throw a check engine light if the timing was any off? Would it run well on the low end and then lose power if the timing was off or should i be looking in a diffrent direction? I just want to make sure timing is not an issue.
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I have an 01 subaru impreza with 185000 miles. The timing belt broke while I was driving. I gave the mechanic five-hundred for parts and labor but then he told me the engine would need to be pulled to fixed damaged head and valves.
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I recently broke a timing belt on my 1999 AEB 1.8t Passat. I'm in the process of doing all of the repairs myself while working around my college and work schedule. I have yet to pull the head off, and I'm scared of what I'll find when I do. Should I expect any piston damage? I have one completely broken valve and a bunch of bent valves.
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I think the timing belt broke on my 2007 4.0 6cyl that has 99k on it. Is this an interference or noninterference motor?
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2002 Toyota Solara SLE v6 w/ 209k miles
Drove the car home from church yesterday, this morning went to start and wouldn't start..
Tested the Fuel Pump and that looks good.. Pulled a spark plug and did a spark test and I get no spark.
After reading up I get the sense it is either the Crank Angle Sensor or the Timing Belt snapped .. I don't know the last time the timing belt was changed, we got the vehicle @ 190k miles..
Does a no spark symptom sound like a timing belt that could have snapped? I believe these are non-interference engines so it should be ok..
When turning the car over the RPM gauges doesn't look like it is moving but wanted to see for a complete spark failure.
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The timing belt on my 2004 Chevy Aveo broke last week. I have it at a mechanic who got a new timing belt on to check the compression of the engine. Bad news: no compression. So far they haven't taken the head off to inspect the inside. This includes timing belt/water pump, cylinder head gasket removal and replacement, cylinder head check, some misc labor, lube, oil, and filter...
However, another mechanic is suggesting that I replace the engine instead with a used or refurbished engine with less miles. He says that it doesn't make much sense to put new parts on the top end of the engine. The engine itself has about 153k miles on it.
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On my 99 accord (v4, lx) i am unable to change temperature i.e no matter whether the knob is turned to cold or hot, it stays hot. AC doesn't work. fan still works.defrost front/rear is not working.. Its like the heating/ac controls are not working.
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I recently bought a 97 960. i have had a s90 before in totaled it i loved the car so much i found another. i was driving and broke the timing belt tensioner which in turn lead to the breaking of 5 exhaust valves that i know of. I've taken off the head and noticed that one of the bottom of the valves had melted onto the number 5 piston head.
I called around and search but every motor is at least 1000 and i have been told anywhere from 3500-4500 to rebuild. My question would b is there an easy way to fix or should i junk it. i bought it for a 1000 it has only 140000 on it an its in almost great condition. I attached some pictures of the head and piston so u can see the damage.
Attached File(s)
2012_04_07_19.02.39.jpg ( 1.45MB )
2012_04_10_16.45.26__1_.jpg ( 1.43MB )
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95 nissan maxima decelerated on highway, i heard a clunking sound, and then it shut off, i opened the hood and it smelled like burnt rubber. Checked all of the belts i could see..no problems. Car wouldn't start after this...and all i could hear was a clicking sound. Pulled 6 codes for the car including bad speed sensor and a misfire, as well as bad EGR...i think the timing chain/belt broke..but i can't access it.
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My 2001Honda Civic EX (manual) has only about 46,000 miles on the clock and runs very well. My mechanic says I should consider replacing the timing belt (the manual suggests after seven years). I plan on keeping the car for many more years -- should I replace the belt now? How devastating is it if the belt breaks while driving?
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I think I made a bad decision. Almost a year ago, I purchased my used Odyssey. I cannot remember if the timing belt had been changed. My check engine light came on, and the mechanic I took it to indicated it was the seal on the gas cap. He proceeded to tell me that I have an oil leak coming from the oil pump and that I should replace it and while I'm in there, I should replace the timing belt. There were a myriad of other things wrong with it, including broken engine mounts (which I can get fixed elsewhere from the man I purchased the car from) and some other things he said I can spread out and are basic maintenance, but I said to go forward with the oil pump and timing belt.
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Our pilot is 8 years old but has only 64, 000 miles on it. The dealership is recommending we change motor mounts and timing belt. Although the motor mounts don't seem to be broken and nothing is rattling we have to change the motor mounts due to the fact that the engine is moving more than an inch. Having said that in 6 months we have to put the pilot in long term storage for 3 years. Should we change the timing belt now given the low mileage and the long term storage situation?
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