Honda - Accord :: 2003 - Intermittent Loss Of Battery Connection
Mar 10, 2015
I had my car battery replaced about three months ago and when it was replaced they put those little anti-corrosion felt pads at the base of the terminals as well as anti-corrosion grease. My positive terminal would never maintain a secure connection so I removed the felt pad and replaced the terminal connection. Now my only problem is whenever it is very cold outside and I try to start the car, I lose power instantly as soon as the starter is about to engage. I always have to twist the positive terminal back and forth a couple times, listening to the crunching sound of the anti-corrosion grease, and power is restored.
Is there any brand of grease I can use that won't cause this issue? Yes, I have removed the terminal, cleaned out the old grease and replaced with another pouch of the cheap stuff at the autozone counter and that didn't work. There is no corrosion buildup on the terminals but I've consistently had the problem for the past few months.
I know Honda had a recall on ignition switched a while ago, and they replaced mine, but I'm not sure if there is any direct connection since my daily fix involves me manipulating the battery terminal to get the car started. 2003 Accord EX ...
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This has happened only 4 times in the last 4 years till about a month ago. (happened twice in 2 days). With key on i get the glow plug light and CEL on but no power to the pump (FASS) and obviously no fuel pressure. it will crank, but nothing on the tach. I've tried plugging in a scanner and it doesn't make a connection with the pcm. all lights work and gauges work (tach and speedo are at zero obviously)...
Before I couldn't pin down when it happened due to being so intermittent. But the last two times it has happened it was when I started it and drove somewhere close before it was at full operating temp. (and in retrospect the previous times was a similar situation). She'll start fine cold, and when at operating temp.
When it happens I pull the battery cables let it set. Reconnect and within a few tries works fine. PCM going bad? Is there a sensor I need to check? New motor has about 25k on it.
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My latest car, 93 Honda Accord, has been my most unreliable car so far but I bought it earlier this year for $800 and it has <75,000 miles on it so I keep fixing it. Last night, after filling up about 30 miles before, I noticed the RPM's shoot down to nothing but then immediately go right back up again. I drove for a couple more miles on the freeway and then it happened again but the RPM did not return to its previous level. Erma (the car) lost power and gradually I steered it off the road as it slowed down. I waited awhile and kept trying to start it up. She sounded peppy (no clicking, squealing or straining) and the lights stayed on but it just wouldn't start. Eventually she started again, after about 15 minutes, and drove home with no problems. I live 45 minutes outside of town (where I work and go to graduate school - poor student card) so I am hoping for some guidance for things to try to make sure it doesnt strand me again, especially more permanently. Seems electrical? I recently, in the last 8 months, replaced the starter and the electric ignition assembly, as well as the brake master cylinder.
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OK, the wife had this car lose power on the interstate (only 5 mph) -- said she heard a lot of noise (no good description) and smelled rubber burning. Towed to Honda dealer -- found nothing wrong even after putting 44 miles on it to try to get it hot. My co-worker said she had a similar problem with a Civic --they found nothing on the computer -- happened again, she limped in a 5 mph and they could hear it was the alternator. Alternatively, web research has shown a LOT of problems with the 2004 V6 transmission.
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Intermittent start on 96 accord, will start 1in 4 times. no noise as if it was dead. replaced starter. worked for a week... did it again after a few days.. replaced starter again.. diagnostic on electrical ok....
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My 2005 Honda Accord randomly loses all power during city driving (25 MPH or less and sometimes while approaching a stop). The dashboard, radio, etc. go black, engine stops, and power steering and locks go out. The first couple times, it restarted immediately and drove fine. The past couple times, it did not restart right away.
After waiting a bit and taking the key out of the ignition, we were able to turn on the interior lights, A/C, and radio, and then the car started fine. The car was involved in a frontal collision a few weeks prior to all of this starting. The driver's headlight was damaged, and at least one fuse had to be replaced. We have taken it to the dealer several times. They ran diagnostic tests and drove it around, trying to duplicate the problem -- without success.
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder w/ manual transmission that will intermittently kill while driving. Obviously its distressing, but its been a couple months in between incidents, so its hard to take it seriously, because the car will operate normally for long periods of time, but when it kills, especially on the freeway, it can be frightening.
Luckily the car will start again - pop it into neutral and turn the key, stick it back in 5th gear, and keep driving. Previously, but not lately, from a cold start the car would start up briefly (1 second or so), then kill, and if then if you crank it again it would start right up. Not sure how it relates to the issue while driving, but it could be relevant.
I have heard it might be the fuel pump going bad slowly. Not sure on this, haven't replaced anything there yet (cost/time)I have heard it could be an electrical relay (can't remember the exact name) but I did replace that, and still having the issue.
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I own a 2005 Honda Accord LX with just over 44,000 miles. Recently I've been hearing an intermittent noise coming from the front of the car.
It started a few weeks ago when I cranked the wheel hard to the right to get out of a street parking spot. After I did this, it sounded like something was dragging on the ground (like the muffler). After I turned left at an intersection, the "dragging" noise went away, but I could still hear a faint sound similar to metal pieces being rubbed together. It does not sound like the brakes are grinding, but like a piece of metal is being rubbed against another piece. The noise goes away when the car comes to a stop.
These two sounds come and go, and usually after I have made a turn. The rubbing noise comes and goes, and I hear that more than the dragging noise. What might be causing this? Is this a major issue? Should I take this to a mechanic or the Honda dealership?
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. with 156k miles.
A couple days ago, the CEL came on. It drove fine, but if I accelerated it wouldn't shift smoothly. It felt like it was hitting the rev limiter.
I took it to get scanned, but the reader didn't work. On my way to another shop, the light went off.
Today, the light came back on with the same symptoms. No shops were open, so I disconnected the battery hoping to reset things, and it worked! No other issues on the way to work. Smooth shifts, smooth idle, simply normal.
Obviously there's an issue. Getting it scanned is a pain; AutoZone and the like cant scan in CA any more. What is the culprit? I'm guessing O2 sensor.
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'92 Honda Accord
My car was getting 28/29 mpg when the water pump went. Afterward the work was done the mileage dropped to ~21 mpg. Going back to the place that did the work is not an option. A few months after the work I decided to do a tuneup to fix the mileage. A guy from the parts store came out to show me how to deal with the spark plugs and told me I needed a new valve cover gasket. When I went back to the place that did the work, they agreed I needed a new gasket and would do it for the full price. They also agreed that they had just replaced it when they did the original work. Even I know gaskets don't fail that quickly. So they did a foul job originally. What could they have done to kill the mileage?
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2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
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97 Accord Lx - 215k miles - 4 cyl. - regular maintenance. It's been my daily driver for over 5 years and been running perfectly.
Yesterday I drove the 35 miles from work back to my town but before going home stopped to visit someone for about an hour. When I came out to leave I noticed a larger than normal amount of fluid in the drive. I just thought it was condensation from the AC and that it was more because it was extremely hot yesterday (100+).
When I got within 2 miles of the house the 1st thing was that the AC was not blowing as cold. I turned it off. Then the engine seemed to "pulse" with loss of power, and the temperature gauge was maxed out. As I pulled into the driveway the engine light and oil pressure light came on.
After it cooled down I checked and the coolant was a little low, so I topped it off. The oil was really low and I added three quarts to bring it to full.
This morning I started it up and let it idle while I finished getting ready (5-10 minutes) and the temp gauge was about 1/3rd of the way up (where it normally is). It sounded, felt, and drove as normal but after a mile or so the gauge was climbing extremely fast so I turned around and took it back home.
What it might be? Water pump?
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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Had to replace battery, normally would push the sound button till it beeps---then hit #4 preset button to set hour,etc. Well, my sound button does not beep and my clock display just keeps flashing. This problem is on a 2006 Honda accord V6.
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My husband and I just bought a 2006 Accord Hybrid with 123,000 miles on it. The IMA and check engine lights came on two days later. I had the diagnostic check done on it and the code for battery pack deterioration came up. I read online where this code could be caused by the 12-volt battery going bad, and as it had the original battery in it, and the check on that showed it needed to be replaced, we did that. Two days later, the lights were on again. So we know we're going to have to replace the battery pack, which we're okay with, but what we want to know is whether the car will still run once that battery is completely shot. So far, it's still showing a good charge on it - whether that means anything, I don't know. Also, if it will run without the IMA component, will we be doing any damage to the car if we let it go for a few weeks?
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder... At 256K miles I had the battery and open doors, open trunk lights illuminate intermittently. Initially the lights came on for 1/2 mile. 150 miles later it was more like 20 miles on, off for a mile, on for 40 miles, off for 25 miles, on for 10 miles, and then off. A Honda dealer ( after the first 20 miles of battery light being on and 70 miles from home) replaced the battery and the lights came back on a mile down the road. I managed to get home. With engine running running battery voltage was 14.4 volts. The light stayed off for 30 miles the next day. AutoZone found no diagnostic codes. A mechanic told me that the battery light could be intermittent with a failing alternator. I changed the alternator (cracked case). The voltmeter again showed 14.4 volts with engine running. Will the car return to reliability?
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Once this happens, simply turning the ignition off and then on again seems solves the problem. We've taken the car to two mechanics, one who said the belt was slipping and one who said the belt was fine!
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We do have a problem with our Honda. We have icons on the IP that flash at certain time. Icons are the "battery", "door ajar" and "parking brake". The icons flash when we take our foot off the accelerator and stop when we re-accelerate. Also, if we turn the headlights on during the flashing, it stops. We have a new battery and alternator. A battery check yesterday showed all functions were normal. What could cause this problem and what to do about it.
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2003 Explorer Sport, 4.0 L, 84K miles. Car just fell out of extended warranty and has been serviced exclusively by the dealer.
While driving, I experienced a sudden bog down and inability to travel faster than 20 - 25 MPH. The more pedal you give, the less power. In neutral, free revs will not go above 3000 RPM at full pedal and will rise and fall between 2000 - 3000 RPM. The next day all is normal again. This happened twice now and I am not sure why. No CEL, no stored codes.
Plenty of pressure (felt by hand only) out the tail pipe except when fluctuating during free revs. There doesn't appear to be any vacuum leaks. What I can check to correct this? Could it be bad fuel or water in fuel?
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