We have a 92 Honda Accord 2.2L We have been trying to get it to pass emissions since October. So far we have replace the gas cap, replaced the O2 sensor and replaced the EGR valve. Here are the readings 25/25 test 50/15 testHC ppm 17 29CO% .07 .20NO ppm 1162 1230 after replacing the O2 sensor but before the EGR the 25/25 side passed reading 1005CO+CO2 % 15 15
View 9 RepliesAn independent mechanic rebuilt my 2001 Honda Accord transmission.
The first problem I had with my car shifting was when I tried to pass a car. The car kind of bucked and would not accelerate enough to pass cars. The fix engine light was on. I took it to a small town mechanic who did some diagnostics and said it was not the transmission. He reset the engine light but it came back on as I was driving home ( 150 miles away). On my next trip downstate ( 150 miles) I had my oil changed. As soon as I left the oil change place my car would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear consistently, and once it dropped into neutral then kind of slammed into second. The D4 light was blinking. This happened inconsistently, but I did not drive it more than 10 miles.
Being 150 miles away from home, I didn't know where to take my car. The local KIA dealership said they could get the diagnostic codes for me but could not fix it. After diagnostics they said the codes indicated some "sort of trouble with the transmission" but couldn't tell what. I called the closest Honda dealership and an independent transmission specialist. I gave both places the codes. Both said it sounded like a transmission problem but couldn't say for sure until they saw the car.
The transmission guy warned me that when people bring their vehicles in for a second opinion, the dealership always recommended very expensive full repairs that are not needed. He told me I should not drive the car, even though it was drivable, (since the problem was intermittent), so I had it towed in to him in the closest big city. He said he would check the car over ( I have a gas leak, some inconsistent electrical problems and my oil light had come on before I had the oil changed) to see if it was worth the price of a repair and call me. I made the 150 mile trip home and waited four days before I called him, since I hadn't heard him. When I called him, he said ,"the transmission rebuild was almost done". He said second gear was "burned out". I was ticked because he did not call me or give me any details ahead of time or put anything specific in writing for me. He said he could "take it back out" if that is what I wanted. I didn't know what to do, so I told him not to take "it" back out.
I picked up the car on Saturday and drove it 15 miles. It worked fine. The next day I drove the car a block and it did EXACTLY the same thing it did before I had it "repaired". The car would not shift from 1st into second.. then it kind of dropped into neutral then clunked into second gear and the D4 light was blinking. When I called him he said he would have to look at it to see what the problem could be. (electrical or something else).
My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.
View 4 RepliesMy check engine light is on and I read the code with my obd and the problem catalytic converter is bank 1. Which is bank 1?
View 1 RepliesI got a 71 f-250 ranger n it's a beast with a few problems. The most resent is emissions. I have owned it for a year and guy bought it from knows about timing n carbs, but now days most mechanics hate dealing with carbs from what I've found. I'm in az and my emissions came out as a fail, but from what I've read it may be fixable with the right knowledge if any ones willing to share. Here we're my result
Loaded reading. Load standard. Idle read. Idle standard.
Hc. 131. 450. 609. 450
Co. 5.56. 3.75. .11. 5 .0
So it failed idle hc and loaded carbon. So I'm pretty sure my trucks running rich and I know I can adjust its air and fuel, just not tremendously experienced.
I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
My Honda CRX, 1989 failed the NJ Inspections for very high Emissions. The engine has 200,000 miles. I had a lot of repairs done on it: new majorrnator, new oil pan cover, new engine gasket, new radiator, new axels. brakes, new alternator. catalytic converter, muffler. Unfortunately, now it failed for very high emissions. I added the Diesel and Car Cleaner, but did not work. what can I do to fix the car so it will pass the Emissions Test? what can be wrong with it, and will it cost me a lot of money. Is it worth trying to cure it or should I retire it, and sell it?I am on a very tight budget, and am depending on this car for my transportation.
View 11 RepliesOne car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1992 Honda Accord EX 5speed the car has 185k miles runs great but every time I fire up the car I run it for like a mile, if that, and the surging begins, it won't go over 2k rpm so when that happens I pull over for about a minute or two and then the car drives normal again. I'm still working on the problem finding and fixing little glitches here and there...
View 2 RepliesSo I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
View 4 RepliesI am a happy owner of a 98 Honda Accord Lx (4 cylinder). This car and I have been through a lot. A few weeks ago I went into the dealership because the check engine light came on. They said I had no oil in the car, did an oil change, and sent me on my way. The following week I broke down after coolant came pouring from my car.
A different dealership said that there was an oil leak that compromised the hose carrying the antifreeze, which caused it to break, and as a result the thermometer broke. My first question... do I confront the first dealership that swore they checked & inspected everything to figure out why my oil was so low? Now, the question of MOST IMPORTANCE... The second mechanic that worked on it told me that the transmission was going. It was brought to my attention about 9 months ago that there may be a small leak in the transmission. Well, it still ran fine. Occasionally it wouldn't have the smoothest shift, but was nothing big.
Well, the same week the second mechanic mentioned this, and my need to start looking for a new car, the transmission is a complete mess! It jerks and won't shift as quickly, and I can't think of how to describe it easily, but when it jerks it does it multiple times.
I have a 96' honda accord LX and I have no low beams. Set on low beams I have no lights. Set on high beams sometime it switches to low beams, then 3 or 4 minute pass and it stays on high beams for the duration of the car ride till I turn the car off.
I have replaced the dimmer relay and the turn signal switch. What's wrong with it? A guy at auto zone it could be one of my body control modulators, is this it?
I replaced the valve cover gasket set and that stopped the oil leak. A few months later it looks like the vtec valve assy. is leaking. Should I replace the vtec valve assy. or just the gaskets?
View 1 RepliesMy 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
My 95 Accord loses about a qt every 1,000 miles from a loose oil pan. I leave a little mess everywhere I park. I want to replace the pan gasket but can't reach the heads of two 10mm bolts that are partially covered by part of the transmission. How do I get them off? Are those babies actually holding on the pan, or are they not related?
View 14 Replies99 Accord, 160,000, automatic, 4cyl vtec, properly maintained.
Recently the CEL came on following an episode of the engine running poorly. It painted EGR code P0401 which is being dealt with, and, P1739: "third clutch pressure switch circuit fault." I investigated briefly in my Haynes and found that P1739 is one of the codes that will not trip the CEL.
I have not had any major issues with this transaxle. The fluid is at its proper level, Honda Z1 brand, and in good shape. I have it changed every 20,000 miles. Sometimes if I am driving along in 2nd gear, right around the upper speed limit before it would shift to third (20-25 mph), the car will jerk just a little but it is driveable. Could this be related?
Should I let this slide until something happens or should I get the to a transmission tech? What would you do? Could the thing go into limp mode one day without warning?
My 2002 Honda Accord (225000 miles) would not start this morning. It rained all night so I am going to remove plugs, wires, and cap to dry out. The car was not choking or stalling yesterday, so I don't think it is a fuel issue i.e., fuel pump.
View 7 RepliesI have a RPM gauge that has seemingly done the impossible. Instead of resting on the peg at '0,' it is now underneath it. Effectively, it no longer registers any RPM because of its location. I wish I had seen how this happened.
View 5 RepliesIf my A/C compressor has a leak can it be fixed or does it have to be replaced?
View 6 RepliesAC went out on 2003 Honda Accord with 120k miles. Mechanic checked and found bad compressor. Do they usually go bad after 8 years or that mileage? (I live in humid hot South, so AC gets used a lot.) Putting in a used compressor costs $470 with labor, 6 month guarantee, versus new compressor for $700 with labor, 12 month guarantee. Since it's the start of summer, a 12 month guarantee doesn't much more. But will used compressor last for another 5-8 years or 100k miles? When new (or originally in the car) how long do they usually last?
View 3 RepliesYesterday, I turned on my car and got a message on my dash telling me to check my fuel cap. I did, and it was fine. The message still didn't go away, so when I got to work, I actually unscrewed my cap to check and make sure everything looked normal. At this point, I noticed that the metal flap that usually covers the opening of the gas tank was gone. After showing this to my neighbor, he said that it looks like there's actually an entire component missing from the mouth of the tank, and not just the flap.
I'm guessing that, the last time I got gas, this part of my gas tank went with the nozzle when I took it out. How I didn't notice this is beyond me. Unfortunately, the last time I got gas, I was 100 miles away from home.
My question is, am I in for a nauseatingly expensive repair here? Is it possible to just replace that one part, or am I going to end up replacing a whole lot more? I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet because I'm trying to go in armed with some knowledge about what can be done here.