Honda - Accord :: Engine Oil Filling Up The Coolant Recovery Tank
Feb 9, 2011
The engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.
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A few weeks ago my car over heated and stopped. I had it towed and the mechanic changed the water pump, timing belt, gasket cover and more. About two weeks ago I noticed antifreeze on my drive way. Took it back in and the mechanic changed a clamp on the radiator. it continued to leak antifreeze. I took it to Pep Boys for a pressurized test, they couldn't find a leak, but did say my radiator hoses needed changing and they suspect the radiator cap is the problem. That was a week ago. I just got back from vacation and the reservoir keeps getting low every day, but not at the minimum line since the first mechanic filled it to the top. There is not apparent leak under neath the car. No smell when I start. Oil is not milky. Called first mechanic he said sounds like a blown head gasket....
Car is Honda Accord 1999, 138K miles.
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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My husband just bought a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4. On the way home from work the recovery tank cap kept popping off. When he got home the radiator was cool to the touch, hoses were warm. He removed the radiator cap and no coolant was showing but the over flow tank was full. I looked in the recovery tank and it looked brown which to me indicates a head or head gasket problem. I checked the oil and it was clean and seemed to be slightly overfilled.
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My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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I've got a 2004 Santa fe V6 2.7 with a strange problem (145k miles).
On Sunday I filled up the tank and the car would start but not stay running the engine would just peter out and die. Took me a few minutes and a little revving and feathering the gas to get it to where the engine would not die b/f I got it into gear. After driving a mile home I turned off the car and restarted it 3 times w/o incident.
There was a previous episode that was very similar a few months ago. However, this was an isolated incident. I did a little research on the fuel filter and discovered the necessity of pulling out the back seats and did not take any action beyond always buying good gas. I lied to myself that the first freeze and a very cold engine was somehow to blame.
Friday morning I left on a trip (w/o getting more gas) and in route I filled the tank twice and both times it did not want to start. The car stated like normal when I left for the return trip. I stopped for gas once on the way home with the intent of buying just enough gas to get home and leaving the engine running while I pumped. As soon as I removed the gas cap the engine died and was once again difficult to start (the engine seemingly becoming more stubborn with each incident).
Additionally the idle while in gear was not as smooth as it has been but not necessarily to the point where I would have noticed if I had not been watching closely. I spent about 10 minutes on idle and under 10 mph creeping through a construction zone and the rpm dropped sharply a few times. what this could be?
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After over filling my fuel my car stalls (sometimes) on going back to idle. Not sure what to checks, check engine light is not on.
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2005 Ford Escape 4 cyl240,000 miles. Every time i fill up the gas tank and then drive for a while, either the next time i start the car or while i'm driving, the engine will begin to misfire, lose power, and eventually stall. It won't start again, or will start but misfire so much that it stalls again. If I wait 20 or 30 minutes or over night, then it will start up and run fine until i fill the tank again a days or so later.
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This is for my previous car that I used to own in 2005. It was a 1992 Honda Accord and the issue it had was anytime I went to the gas station to fill up the gas, the car refused to start and I would need to jump start the vehicle every time. I used to take the DC metro to work everyday, so I did not have to use the car as much, but it was a hassle. This happened all through the year and I was just used to carrying a Jump Starter Box with me in the car. There were no other issues with the car. I do not recall needing a jump start any other time. This one time, I forgot to keep my car in the garage and it was out in the snow all weekend. Come Monday morning, I started the car without any issues. I went to a friends place about 10 miles away and then tried to fill gas at a gas station near his place and it died at the gas station. I do not have the car with me now, having totaled it in an accident couple of years ago. But I was always amazed at this and would like to know what would cause something like this.
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I have a 2014 camry SE 2.5 with 66.000 miles on it and been having issues since the warranty expired..... What it could be? Cleaned the maf sensor and still no luck and every time i fill the gas tank it won't start takes a while.
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I am a happy owner of a 98 Honda Accord Lx (4 cylinder). This car and I have been through a lot. A few weeks ago I went into the dealership because the check engine light came on. They said I had no oil in the car, did an oil change, and sent me on my way. The following week I broke down after coolant came pouring from my car.
A different dealership said that there was an oil leak that compromised the hose carrying the antifreeze, which caused it to break, and as a result the thermometer broke. My first question... do I confront the first dealership that swore they checked & inspected everything to figure out why my oil was so low? Now, the question of MOST IMPORTANCE... The second mechanic that worked on it told me that the transmission was going. It was brought to my attention about 9 months ago that there may be a small leak in the transmission. Well, it still ran fine. Occasionally it wouldn't have the smoothest shift, but was nothing big.
Well, the same week the second mechanic mentioned this, and my need to start looking for a new car, the transmission is a complete mess! It jerks and won't shift as quickly, and I can't think of how to describe it easily, but when it jerks it does it multiple times.
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So I noticed the smell of burning coolant a day after I got an oil change. My car wasn't overheating and my thermostat didn't jump at all. I open the hood and there's a little bit of smoke. I take it to a mechanic and they do a pressure check. They see dried coolant under the upper hose connecting the engine to the radiator. They tell me its the flange connecting that hose to the engine that's leaking low levels of coolant and it will cost 150 to fix.(not a gasket) I say go ahead. They're in the process of fixing it today and they call me saying "We got the part, and we're going to fix it but we think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing which is causing the problem and it will be another 150 to fix". Now I looked up this mechanic and they have 12 1 star reviews on Yelp of people saying they were overpriced and the mechanics often piled on things once they got on.
My issue is essentially the mechanic said "This problem could happen again if you don't replace the thermostat" but he also said they're not sure if its a bad thermostat. Couldn't they check the thermostat easily??? Like I said I said besides the leak in the flange I haven't had any issues. The car warms up fine and the temperature NEVER spikes (I had a different car overheat and blow a gasket two years ago cause I didn't notice the temp gauge for 2 miles and I LEARNED MY LESSON) I always keep a careful eye on the gauge.
My question is isn't there an easy way to check the thermostat? The mechanic keeps pressuring me to fix it. Just to be safe I am just having them fix the flange and taking it to a mechanic I trust. (I couldn't take it to him before cause he's on the other side of town and I was paranoid my car wouldn't make it)
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl. with 150 K miles. Had a coolant leak that the shop fixed. About 60 days later, same problem. I have to refill radiator every other day. What I noticed is a brown soft muck buildup at the radiator cap area. Also the car seems to run rough on and off. The underside of the oil cap is clean, no carmel color ( oil and coolant mixture) buildup.
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So, i have a 1996 honda accord, i just had a new alternator put on yesterday. Well before then, when the old one was still in the car, my car would heat up while i was sitting still and it was drinking coolant and water like crazy!!! I was thinking that maybe i was having a head problem, but i didn't see any tell tale signs of coolant leaking over into the oil. So, today was the first day i drove to work with the new alternator on, i filled it up with coolant before i left for work, i drove 20 minutes to work and 20 minutes back home.
The temperature gauge never moved above the middle line, even when i was at a sit still with the car on. I checked the coolant level after the car cooled off, and it was still pretty full. Could a bad alternator effect the performance of your cooling system? I am by no means, complaining about this, I am very happy my car isn't heating up abnormally anymore, just curious was the alternator my problem?
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My '96 Honda Accord started smoking from under the hood as I pulled into my garage today. Upon closer inspection it seems like it was steam, not smoke, and it came from a crack in what I assume was some portion of my coolant line. The crack is in a solid, plastic tube that runs right along the fore-most part of the car, right along where the latch to unlock the hood. There is an escape valve that warns not to open it while the engine is hot because of the coolant that will be under pressure, hence the supposition that it is leaking heated coolant.
Obviously this needs to be fixed. So I have a few questions.What could have caused the crack?Is there a way to repair the crack without replacing the part?How serious if this / How far can I get away with driving?
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I have a 1991 Accord LX wagon that is leaking coolant. I figured it out b/c there is a green fluid pooled on the floor behind the passenger's seat. Why would coolant be leaking there? I bought this car in February and have been nickeled and dimed ever since. I want to sell it and get something else but I want to get the coolant problem fixed first and need to know if this is going to be expensive.
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, it has 253k miles, i know, alot of miles. Well, i noticed it has been losing coolant pretty fast, i would fill it up with coolant and it would run out by the next day. I also notice that when i am sitting still, it runs hot, not sure if that goes along with it losing coolant rapidly or if that could be something else. I checked my oil dipstick the other day, it doesn't seem to have coolant mixing in with the oil, so i don't think it would be a head blown, i know i do need a gasket changed, but not an actual head for the engine. I haven't noticed any coolant in my driveway, then again I shouldn't have a leak, i just had the radiator, thermostat, water pump and the bell housing all changed a couple months ago. I also noticed that i am running low on oil more often as well. The other day, after i topped it off with oil, it was blowing out white smoke off and on and then it stopped, what could that be?
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My CEL came on today, gas level was a little under a quarter tank.
Took it to Advanced on the way home to have them scan it quick, and it threw a fuel pressure regulator code. I stopped in the gas station on the way home and filled it up, and the CEL was gone and hasn't been on since. I'm thinking HPFP, but maybe not? Could it be injectors?
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I filled my 2010 Prius IV. Every day since, my indicated MPG has gone up about one MPG, with my 40 mile round trip to work.
I had been running around 46-48 MPG indicated this winter. Next day it was up over 50. Yesterday 52, today it is up to 53 mpg and I have used 1/2 tank on 256 miles, which is much better than my winter stats.
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How many miles does it say you can drive after you fill up? Mine says 334 and that's what I'm getting. I want to hit 400 for a tank and can't.
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