Honda - Accord :: Overheating / Oil Light Flickering
Aug 3, 2012
Well, I was sitting in the drive-thru today and my car started overheating. On the way home the oil light started flickering, so I put in some oil I had as soon as I got home. When I got home I checked my oil and it was half-way between the bottom of the dipstick and add mark. Really low.
I added a half a quart when I got home and drove it. The temp gauge was getting up there 3/4 the way to the red zone, but the oil light didn't come on. I drove it to a meeting, afterwards I added a quart of oil to the engine and drove it home and it started overheating and the oil light was flickering again. No white smoke, so it's not burning it. It's got to be leaking from somewhere, right? to lose that much oil?
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I decided to go with the 97 Accord with 156K. It's really in beautiful condition and the seller had an envelope with service records for everything - routine and otherwise. The car runs strongly but at idle or slowing to a red light, the oil light faintly flickers. Once I had driven it for awhile, the flickering stopped and didn't return at the ide/slow speed. Explanation? Should I be deeply troubled by this?
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Out of nowhere my check engine light came on bought some oil thought it was low, and i just recently got an oil change. Checked my sparks and it was okay. Couple hours later my car began over heating With engine light still on, and my temperature gauges increased knew something was wrong, filled it with anti freeze to cool it down, continued driving and the issue continued. Bought me a knew sensor, I noticed it worked but did not fix the issue, my car continues to over heat, couple days later without driving it, this morning on my way to work it was really cold so my car did not overheat, but my check engine light began blinking and my vehicle began rattling from my house all the way to work, for about 9 miles. Whats wrong with it? Is it safe to drive back home after work.??
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I have been having a problem with my Honda overheating while the A/C is on, this is the thing though on any day when the weather is 85 or lower I can run my A/c all day no problem. But when it is 90 degrees out side my engine starts to over heat while the A/C is on, how ever as soon as I turn the A/c off temperature needle goes back down even in 90 degree weather.....
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My 1999 Accord V6 with 180k miles has started overheating. The fans will not run unless the A/C is on. I replaced the coolant temp switch A, because the fan came on when I jumpered the pins of the fan connector. The fan will not come on, even when the temp gauge goes all the way to the top. Jumper the pins or turn on the climate control, the fans kick on, and the temp drops. Tested the old temp switch in boiling water and it tested fine. Tried spreading the pins on the temp sensor in case the connection was just bad and that did nothing.
Otherwise, the system seems to work fine. Top coolant hose gets hot first, then bottom gets hot after 10 minutes. The heat works, and I didn't see any signs of exterior leaks. What else might keep the cooling fans from coming on?
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Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.
I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)
I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..
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When it is cold outside and I want to turn my heat on in my car, it takes a loooong while for heat to be produced. I have to have the car moving at a high rate of speed before any heat is made. Even when it is turned all the way to the hottest setting it just spits out cold air. Here is the real problem. If I have the temperature on the heat and the car is idle, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel starts to move around to the RED side(meaning the engine is hot, right?)
As long as the car is moving the gauge will stay in the BLUE(engine is cool, right?) As soon as I stop the car at a red light or sit in traffic(which is usually the case) sure enough the little temperature needle begins to make its way to the RED side. As soon as I move again, it normals again. I have taken this to several mechanics and they have said that they do not know what is wrong and they think that it may just be a faulty temp gauge(this does not seem right) I do not really know if the car is in fact overheating when the gauge starts its travels or if the car is fine and I just have something that is faulty.
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After a trip of about an hour to the Fryeburg Fair yesterday I noticed my temperature gauge needle was going way up. I was able to park my car and went to the fair for about 4-5 hours. Before we left I checked the coolant level as the car had cooled off enough to take the cap off. The coolant right to the top and was green. I checked my oil level and that was fine. On the way home my son suggested that I turn the heat on. I did so and the temp gauge went down to normal and stayed that way all the way back home to Lewiston, Maine. I'm thinking it might be the thermostat but thought I would for any other possible reasons my car is doing this. The car has about 216,000 miles and I did have the thermostat replaced a couple of years ago.....???
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My car is a 99 honda accord v6 EX (coupe)It started overheating about 2-3months ago. I was driving along and the needle on the gauge was completely on hot. I was able to make it home. Ive basically been driving it this whole time with the defrost on 80 and on full blast. Which keeps it around the halfway mark between hot and cold. I had a friend change my thermostat .. didn't fix it. Still overheats. But after he did that it seems to get hotter faster now. When I am at a stoplight it gets as hot as the gauge will let it go, then when I start driving again it cools down a little.
Now, after he changed the thermostat the car has been driving really rough. When I slow down to stop, it'll jerk a couple lightly then stop. When I accelerate from a stopped position it'll jerk a little then go. And when it shifts gears(its an automatic) it jerks very noticeably. So now im freaking out worrying my transmission is going too. So I guess what I am wanting to know is ... wtf is wrong with it??? Water pump? Ive been told if I change the water pump I need to have them change the timing belt too .. yes?
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97 Accord Lx - 215k miles - 4 cyl. - regular maintenance. It's been my daily driver for over 5 years and been running perfectly.
Yesterday I drove the 35 miles from work back to my town but before going home stopped to visit someone for about an hour. When I came out to leave I noticed a larger than normal amount of fluid in the drive. I just thought it was condensation from the AC and that it was more because it was extremely hot yesterday (100+).
When I got within 2 miles of the house the 1st thing was that the AC was not blowing as cold. I turned it off. Then the engine seemed to "pulse" with loss of power, and the temperature gauge was maxed out. As I pulled into the driveway the engine light and oil pressure light came on.
After it cooled down I checked and the coolant was a little low, so I topped it off. The oil was really low and I added three quarts to bring it to full.
This morning I started it up and let it idle while I finished getting ready (5-10 minutes) and the temp gauge was about 1/3rd of the way up (where it normally is). It sounded, felt, and drove as normal but after a mile or so the gauge was climbing extremely fast so I turned around and took it back home.
What it might be? Water pump?
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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I just bought this '93 Accord. Nice car, well-maintained and clean. Issue is the D4 transmission light on the dash does not light up when car is shifted into D4. The car takes off well, shifts through the gears well; however, the overdrive never kicks in. D4 is running the same as D3. What is my best route to remedy?
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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Our oldest daughter came home for the Memorial Day weekend. While here, she told me her oil pressure light had come on. When I checked the dip stick it was as dry as a bone. It took 4 quarts of oil to bring it to the full mark. She has since had to add 3 more quarts. The garage she took it to when she returned to her home said the problem was the switch. Is that possible? They had also performed some previous work on her car...including, what appeared to me to be a new oil pan. Are they accurate about the oil pressure switch, or are they covering for some previous sloppy work...possibly not tightening the bolts for the oil pan enough.
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Since December, I have had the SRS airbag light indicator come on in my 2006 Honda Accord (EX-L, 2.4 L, Automatic), but only in the morning, and only when the outside temperature has been below freezing the night before. After a few minutes when the car warms up, if I turn the car off and then back on the SRS light is gone. The rest of the day, no problem. Figuring that it was not the safest thing to drive with, I had it checked out by a repair shop that I feel comfortable with. They checked the code and said that it showed up as a faulty SRS computer, and the computer would need to be replaced. It seems crazy to me that a 2006 Accord with under 52,000 would need a new SRS unit, so I started looking online to see if I could find any info.
I saw about the SRS units in previous Accords, but it seems like they have those issues ironed out in the 2005 and 2006. I did however, see that some people have said that low voltage also could trigger the same defective code in the SRS unit, which got me thinking. The original Honda battery died and was replaced at the end of November with an AC Delco ACD 51R60 (460 CCA). My original theory was that the AC Delco battery was not cranking enough when it is cold compared to the old Honda battery, and it is triggering the SRS airbag light. I ended up having the shop switch out the new battery to an AC Delco 51R6YR (500 CCA). Unfortunately, however, it did not fix the problem. I can't get past the fact that if it was a defective SRS unit, why would it only cause a problem for the first few minutes when it is cold, and then consistently be fine after that?
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My question: was there some some OBD code or light I should have expected (that didn't show)? What did the flashing Check Engine Light mean?
At 10:30pm last night, I picked my wife and bro-in-law up from the Logan airport, and on the way to drop BIL at his house, I saw a brief whisp of steam/smoke rise from the passenger side hood/wheel-well when idling at a top-light. I exclaimed that the car was smoking, but BOTH my wife and BIL insisted that we had been stopped over a steam grate. (In 70 degree weather? I puzzled, but since BOTH said that had been the case...).
A few minutes later, the check-engine light flashed (three times, I think) and then went off. I drive with an OBD ScanTool attached on the dash, so I immediately switched it to scan the codes, but it reported "clear" / no codes! Either immediately before or immediately after, the car lost accelerating power for 1 or 2 seconds (at most), but then resumed normal driving. No other dash lights were on, though I did not look at the temp gauge.
I am a former chef and professional cook, and have a VERY sensitive sense of smell-- there was NONE; I watched attentively, and the absence of further smoke/steam seemed to support the unseasonal steam-grate hypothesis. I had also picked up the car within the last 24 hours from THE HONDA DEALERSHIP, who I had asked to look everything over to ensure another 6 months of problem-free driving. (I rejected their offer of a $249.00 "triple flush" of transmission, brakes, and pwr steering.) We have otherwise had zero problems with the transmission or cooling-- the car is old, but maintained reasonably well and driven less that 5000 mi / year. Boston driving, but not aggressive or 19 years old!
No further thought, as all seemed okay except for the brief "blip", and pregnant wife, brother-in-law, two dogs, and I all wanted to get home.Drove the 2ish miles to our apartment, with no further blips. At a stoplight about 3 blocks from home, a LOT of smoke/steam started coming out from the hood. Still no lights or OBD codes! At that point, I pulled over within 5 seconds, and noticed that the temp was pinned or nearly so (If there is supposed to be a light on the gauges, I had it all the way dimmed). Looking under the hood, the spray pattern on the hood insulator made it easy to find the split in one of the hoses connected just under the distributor (about 1.25in OD; I'm guessing coolant or transmission, based on the symptoms??).
While waiting for a tow-truck (since I wasn't even sure if it would do any damage to drive the remaining blocks to my driveway), and after things had a chance to cool a bit, my wife restarted the engine for a second so I could check if any additional fluid came out of that split, but none did. Once the temp was back down towards the low end in 20ish minutes, I drove the car about one block so I could stop blocking traffic-- it drove fine, and the temp didn't visibly rise in that 200 yards. Still, the CEL was not on (or flashing) during startup or while running, and there were NO OBD CODES.
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. The check engine light is on and occasionally the TCS light comes on for a few mins. then goes off. I've been to Autozone and used the diagnostic meter, it indicates a clogged or malfunctioning EGR Valve. I replaced the EGR Valve and reset the Check Engine light. The check engine light came back on. Is there some kind on engine cleaner I can use to clean out the the EGR Valve port?
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Why my 92Honda accord lx stalls when the d4 light flashes
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I started my car a few weeks ago, and the check engine light came on and the S light on my dash kept blinking. Followed by a difficulty stepping on the gas pedal. I attempted the paperclip way of scanning my OBD1 scanner. When I used it, the check engine light went off, no S light blinking anymore, and the gas pedal worked great! I also changed out my VSS (vehicle speed sensor) but the light came on anyway, and my speedometer can't read at correct speeds. Could the engine light problem be because of misfiring due to spark plugs? I don't want to keep buying parts and stuff unless I'm 100% sure it will fix the issue.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 sedan (under 100k miles). For two years now I have had a check engine light.
Originally I was told it was a CO sensor that was broke. But now when I get the car inspected, the inspector says I have a catalytic error.
So off to the mechanic. They replace the catalytic converter, claiming it was just an empty shell.
Check engine light comes back on the next day after all that money spent. Back to the mechanic. He says now that the intakes into the catalytic system there are all clogged, so that needs to be scrubbed. Many hundred dollars later, and the problem persists. Still a check engine light.
What could be causing this check engine light nightmare? I cannot get the car inspected so I have that added head ache.
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When I go to start my car it has a solid red light around park, as it should, but it has a flashing green light around drive also. When this happens my car will not start. I usually try it a few times, wait and try and try again until it finally starts up. Once it starts the drives light is still blinking so I turn the car off and back on, then it is good to go. This does not happen every time, it seem sporadic. The engine, battery and oil light stay on, but I think it may only be because the car is starting up, usually the lights come on when starting then go off once the car is ready. Btw it is a 1993 Honda Accord.
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