Honda - Accordhybrid :: 2002 - Overheat / Cap On The Overflow Keeps Blowing
May 14, 2013
My son has a Honda Civic where the engine keeps wanting to overheat. There are no fluid leaks, and we replaced the thermostat. It keeps "blowing" the cap on the overflow.
The fan seems to be working fine, so I don't think that is it. Once it warms up, if you squeeze the hose from the top of the radiator, it is not seem to be pushing much water through (water pump??). You cannot see into the radiator (to check for air bubbles), but popping the overflow cap makes me wonder if it the head gasket has blown, and we are getting exhaust into the coolant system.
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We have a 2005 Honda Accord Hybrid that has a hideous hummmm...a basal sound, a very low deep hum. It comes on intermittently - when idling, when driving. You have to rev up the engine to make it go away. The dealer can't replicate the noise...but we have a line of other passengers who can attest.
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What should be the RPM when cruising at 65 m.p.h. on a flat, well paved freeway? The car is carrying only the driver in this case. My transmission was replaced and my RPM is now 3,100 rather than, as I recall, around 2599. The mechanix says that the transmission is for a Honda Prelude and that they're all the same. Is this true? By the way, my gas milage has proportionately dropped.
Also, how difficult is it to replace the rear shocks? Can this be done in the driveway with the car's rear end securely up on blocks?
One last problem involves the status indicator on the dashboard. This is the one that shows the status of the doors, brake lights, etc. Sometimes this comes on and flickers. Sometimes it never comes on, except for the test flash when starting the car. Sometimes it always stays on. Is this an easy fix?
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Ok so I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport AWD. It has started to over heat only when stopped at a stop light and only when the A/C is on. It will red line and as soon as I start to drive the gauge will drop back to normal. Then as soon as I stop again it will red line. But when I turn the A/C off it will fall back down to 3/4 over heat and drop immediately as I start driving. I notice that the A/C will go from ice cold to blowing hot air when it starts to over heat. I took it to the shop and they did a pressure test on the cooling system and it didn't do it again and the shop said that they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. It didn't do it for about 2 weeks and just now it started back again!!!!!!
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I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla that my kids drive, it has 171k miles. Recently it began overheating and blowing coolant out of the overflow causing it to appear it is leaking due to having to keep adding coolant. The car does not overheat every time but is pretty consistent on overheating. When overheating, the heater starts to blow cold air but if not overheating it blows hot air as normal.
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I have a 2002 Civic LX. A/C worked until a few months ago. It would stay on for about ten minutes and then stopping blowing cold air; it would come back on and then go off again at it's own whim. Bought it to local Goodyear - told them the problem - they charged me about $130 to evacuate and recharge, looked for leafs but told me they saw no problems with the A/C, the condenser was fine, etc. A few days later, same problems started. Runs great for about ten minutes and then does its own thing.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic with 140k miles. It has a leaking head gasket which is causing the engine to overheat when driving slower without airflow to cool the engine.
I would love to drive the car to 200k+ miles but if this is the first of many pricey fixes I want to cut my losses.
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I have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 85,000 miles. Recently my car started overheating, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The mechanic also ran tests to make sure there were no issues with the head gasket, those tests came back saying the head gasket was a-ok. Yet, my car is still overheating but only on days when the outside temperature creeps above 90 and I am in stop and go traffic. I have to re-fill the coolant tank about once a week depending on how much I drive. I find no coolant puddles under my car when it is parked, so I do not believe it is leaking. What else could be causing my car to overheat?
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Honda Accord 93SE, ECU fuse keeps blowing, some one told me to check the relays. Which relays lay in this circuit, I seen another post that found he had the O2 sensor cable touching the manifold.
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The tail lights on my car keep blowing the fuse, I can't find a short or anything that suggests a problem in the wiring, it's a 7.5A fuse, it blew a 10A but seems to be working on a 15A. How much trouble is that 15A gonna bring me!!
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The A/C on my 2009 Honda CRV fail intermittently. I've had the system recharged, checked for leaks, and a relay replaced. Here's what's been happening... only during really warm weather sometimes the A/C just starts blowing hot air. Normally when this happens it resumes working the next day. One time I engaged the defrost and cold air blew out the windshield vents, when I then pushed the a/c button cold air came out the face vents. I was never able to reproduce this though. Also, a few days ago when the a/c failed I deselected the a/c control button and suddenly the air went from hot to ice cold - with the a/c off!
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I purchased a 2009 Honda Odyssey and now the rear A/C is not working. I have tried all setting from the front controls as well as the rear controls to no avail. Nothing comes out. Zero. Nada. I am not sure where to begin to check for the problem. I read a forum that indicated to check F56, but the fuse numbers don't go up that high.
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I have a Honda civic 2011. Sometimes my middle two ac vents is not blowing out any air at all ( but the sides somehow works very little ). The reason why I said sometimes is because it stopped working for a day then it would work again the following day. I don't know what's wrong with it. I called for an estimate and the guy tells me if he has to open up the dashboard to open up the vents it would cost in upwards of 800.
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I have a 2000 Honda civic ex. A couple months ago while driving I heard a squeal and my AC was blowing hot. I just changed out my expansion valve, drier and compressor but when I hooked up my gauge my low side wouldn't build pressure and my high sat like 150. Finally the low side got to 20 and high about 200. I over filled trying to get low side right and when I did get it to 40-50 my high side would be 300 but it wouldn't hold. I emptied the system but 150 psi is somewhere in the high side and won't get out.
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Two years ago, I purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX from a local dealer. I've had very few issues with it. However, shortly after I moved from Michigan to Florida, I began to notice a strange issue with my car. While the car is running and the engine is idling, I lose AC inside the car and the engine heat slowly begins to build.
The AC isn't shutting off, but instead blowing out warm air. The engine heat builds at a concerning enough rate, moving from a normal level to almost maxing out the gauge in the span of 20-30 minutes. This issue seems to auto-correct itself while the car is in motion, with the AC putting out nice, cool air and the engine heat staying at a normal level.
The car currently has about 269,000 Miles on it. I have been told the problem is likely a faulty thermostat, but I'd like a second opinion. What might be wrong with my car?
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I've got an 04' accord and within the last couple weeks it started blowing warmer air but now it's hot. I've called around for a few prices to see about getting the freon replaced and everyone I've called is concerned there's a leak. We'll I've had the for 10 years doesn't the freon just run out eventually and you need to fill it up again? Am I getting scammed if I take it some place and they do a diagnostic that might be a hundred bucks just to look at it?
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I have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
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We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
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Nothing will blow out from vents, with heat or AC. I checked the fuse under the hood and that had continuity, I checked the 7.5 fuse under the dash and that was fine. I also replaced the blower motor resistor and the blower motor with brand new ones. Also used a test light to make sure power was getting to the resistor and motor and that is all good.
2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan .....
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My son's Honda Civic keeps periodically blowing the #4 fuse under the dash (alternator). He replaced the VSS and had the alternator tested but it still happens.
At one point the fuse would blow as soon as you turned the key to ignition but I traced that down to a shorted wiper motor which I replaced and that solved the immediate fuse blowing. BTW according to all documentation I have, the wiper motor is not supposed to be on fuse #4 so perhaps the under dash fuse box has issues.
Looking for a schematic for the under dash fuse box? I have the 01-02 service manual which has wiring diagrams that reference specific fuses but I can't found one for the box itself. Are there relays in that box or is it just wiring from fuse slots to the many connectors?
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If the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
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