Honda - Odyssey :: 2000 - TCS Light Will Stay On And Transmission Will Not Shift Out Of Low Gears
Dec 22, 2012
For a few years now, in cold weather, when starting my 2000 Honda Odyssey the TCS light will stay on and the transmission will not shift out of low gears. I can drive in reverse just fine, but when I try shifting to drive, the "D" drive indicator does not light up and it will only drive in what seems to be first gear. However, when sufficiently warmed up, I can restart the engine, the TCS light goes out, and everything's normal. The warm up time varies from 5 to 10 mins or more, and is unpredictably annoying. I went to a dealer last year and they didn't seem to have a clue. Is it just a matter of a bad sensor?
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I have an old (mid-'90s) Honda Odyssey that has generally worked great. Yesterday, it struggled to get up an icy driveway (since it does not have four-wheel drive) and once at the top seemed to to disengage from fourth gear into neutral, though it was still in fourth. After turning off the car and restarting, it engaged fine.Today the same thing happened on a level, non-icy surface after a few minutes of driving at slow speed. Is it possible to avoid this problem by driving in a lower gear to begin with?Any repairs would likely cost more than the car is worth, but I want to keep driving it -- safely -- as long as possible.
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I recently had a spin out on the ice in my 2001 Honda Oddessy Minivan and had to have the back wheel and front rim replaced. I definitely hit the sidewalk at least once and ended up backward in traffic with the back of my van on the sidewalk. Just after getting the work done I noticed for the first time that my car was having trouble shifting out of park into any other gear when starting and when I had it running but put it in park. I have to either press the brake several times, all the way into the floor to get it to shift out of park or pump it once or twice quickly and when I hear a little click, shift it into gear. Is this a transmission problem? Could it have been caused by my spin out?
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2015 Outlook 2.5 CVT - Regardless of engine temp/or oil temp, transmission will stay in low gears (relative - its a CVT) such that the car is always doing approx. 2100 RPMs. When it occurs, 35mph is 2100 RPMs; when problem is not present, same speed would be approx 1200 RPMs. Same for higher speed. 45mph would be 2100 verses approx 1400rpm. Gear indicator does indicate a '4' or '5' when it would normally be '6'.
Outside temps in excess of 30 degress - no evidence of problem. Below 30, may or may not happen. No check engine light and it does affect MPG significantly.
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2000 Honda Odyssey - CEL came on a couple of days ago and I took it to get the code read. The reader says it can't link up with the ecu. Tried the same reader on another car and it worked fine. The transmission was rebuilt last year (about 9 mo. ago) and I'm concerned that something was not hooked up right during the rebuild. Is this a possibility for the non-linking of the reader to the ecu? Also, last year, before the tranny rebuild, I had a reader hooked up to the ecu and it worked fine.
As a side note, the TCS light comes on sometimes after starting the car and won't turn off. If I restart the car it will turn off and work properly. I imagine this is related, but not sure since I can't read the code for the CEL.
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Our 2003 Odyssey had the transmission rebuilt last month after the original finally failed (215,000 miles). After the rebuild, third gear has a whine. (I don’t recall if it was there before the rebuild – it’s the wife’s ride, she wouldn't have noticed it anyway, and apparently I didn't either). The whine pitch varies with RPM, and is louder if the transmission is under a load. Going up a hill with the accelerator depressed makes the whine louder – taking your foot off the accelerator quiets it. I have a warranty for two years on the rebuild, but before I go back and start asking them about the noise, I was wondering what would cause it? I am worried they didn’t rebuild everything and will just tell me the whine is “nothing to be concerned about.” The transmission shifts smoothly and appears to operate normally other than the whine in third gear under a load.
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For over 3 years, my 2001 Honda Odyssey transmission has had a whine, gradually increasing in volume. The pitch increases with speed, not RPMs because it continues to increase pitch when it shifts and reduces RPMs. There are no performance issues, and there are no error codes when hooked to the computer. The transmission was put in at 93,000, 80,000 miles ago. Had fluid flushed and replaced with no effect.
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I have a Honda Odyssey with 154000 miles on it. In February it started to slip when putting it into drive. I thought this was due to the cold snap. The slip/delay grew until it would disengage from gear when driving. Eventually it was not safe to drive and I had it towed to a transmission shop. They have replaced the TCU, the torque converter arm & the transmission & the ring kit. He has told me that he won't charge more than he originally quoted me, but when I went out there yesterday nothing had changed (it was still on the lift with the exhaust & undercarriage on the floor) since two days prior when he told me it would be done on Friday. Do I have any recourse, and how do I make him finish this job?
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We currently have a 2003 Honda odyssey with about 119K miles. About once a month the transmission does not want to change between 2nd and 3rd gear causing it to rev very high. The only resolution is take your foot off the gas until its back to an idle state. Now I have read that these transmissions suck and have a bunch of problems. We are driving long this summer and we need a new trans. Last year when we drove to NC the car started to buck and rev really high when on cruise control for awhile. not sure if its connected but it was not fun.
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We got this product called "Lucas Transmission Fix" to try to quell the hesitation of the transmission when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. It claims to stop slips and do other things beneficial to the transmission. The car is a 2003 Honda Odyssey. Is this product safe to use on this car? Is there the possibility that it would make the hesitation worse?
Some background information on the car:
- We bought it used last September with 137,000 miles. There are now 150,000 miles.
- Soon after we bought it, we changed the transmission fluid with Honda AFT DW
- 1 because it was slipping from 1st to 2nd gear
- After the fluid change, it started to slip from 3rd to 4th gear instead. Or maybe it was my imagination that it was slipping from 1st to 2nd before?
- The slippage is a lot more severe in cold weather / when the engine is cold
- In my last post about the Odyssey's transmission slip, some people suggested that the EGR valve be replaced. That has not been done.
- The spark plugs were changed last month. The old spark plugs were Denso, the new ones NGK-All maintenance is up to date
- The car is in good running condition other than the transmission slippage and an odd engine vibration somewhere between 1000 and 2000 RPM
- The dealer discovered oil leaks from oil filter housing gasket and rear main seal during the last oil change in mid-February. It must be a pretty small leak.
- A recall for the ignition interlock mechanism was done sometime in March
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Clutch won't shift on a HOT day. When its hot I can't shift very easy between gears. However, the clutch is newer and so it works just fine. When its cold its sometimes tough but not as hard at all. Could it be a clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? Do I need to bleed it?
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I have been having a problem with my brake light warning on my dashboard as my car accelerates and shifts gears. Coincidently the problem began after carting around a co-worker that weighed some 250 pounds in my 2000 Honda Civic. I'm wondering if I have an alignment problem or something more serious.
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2009 Kia Sorento. The Transmission was replaced twice last week and the week before. For the same problem. 50K miles. Auto Transmission...
I have a hard shift between 3rd & 4th gears, I have had the transmission replaced twice. Could it be something else?
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I gotta 93 f150 XL it has a 4.9L and a T18 borg Werner trans. I replaced the clutch,throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing and after reinstalling trans I am unable to go through my gears.
If truck is off I can shift into some gears sometimes but not without a lot of resistance. Also some gears will let me in easy, then fight me as I try to back into neutral.
Truck starts right up but if I start in neutral I can't shift into any gears and get a lot of grinding when I try to put it in gear.
If I start in gear it drives in the gear but I have to force back into neutral. And then I'm stuck in neutral again.
It is a hydraulic clutch and fluid is full and there are no visible leaks. I am 100% sure clutch disc is facing correct way as I triple checked it while installing.
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i've got an accord 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission that does not engage any of the other gears when i shift it out of park. all indicator lights are out except for the park position on the dash.
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I have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
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My 2001 altima wont shift to high gear. driving around town seems to be ok, will driving on the highway be dangerous?
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Sold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
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This is what’s wrong with my 1998 Honda CR-V manual transmission. When it’s off, the gear stick works normally. However, when I start the car, the gear stick gets stuck and won’t move to change gears. It happened before a couple times and if I warmed the car up for about 10 minutes it worked normally again, and normally the next time I drove it. However, this morning, the gear shift would not work even after warming it up, except when the car was turned off.
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2000 Honda Odyssey, Gear indicator light on ther dash works when I start the van, however, when I turn on the headlights, the gear indicator and the gauge illumination lights do not work, when I switch the headlights off the gear indicator light works again. I checked the fuses and replaced them just to check.
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2000 Honda Odyssey - from inside the van, we have a rattle sound that seems to come from the climate control system. Leaves have been cleaned out, rattle went away for 3-4 days then came back. Rattle is while system is on or off, warm or cold engine. Sound is like a hamster wheel or maybe boiling water.
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