I have a 2003 Odyssey minivan that shudders when going through the speedzone of around 40mph. It does not occur when I put it in '3' (so prevents transmission from selecting Overdrive), so I suspect it has something to do with shifting in to OD. We have replaced the engine mounts on this car.
View 8 RepliesI have an 2003 honda odyssey that does not draw the antifreeze from the reservoir back to the radiator, took it to two mechanics first one flushed the radiator the second one pressure tested it, that came back fine they then fill it with antifreeze and said it was low this worked for about six months now its doing the same thing. It doesnt run hot but sometimes I get a gurgling noise when I take off. When I check the water level usually the extra in the reservoir tops the radiator off so it doesnt seem to be leaking but sometimes I smell antifreeze outside my vehicle
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 Odyssey EX - everything was working fine up up to last year. When summer was almost at an end, the A/C suddenly failed. I pressed the 'Auto' button, I heard the compressor kick in and felt the slight kick/drop in rpm like normal, but after about 3-5 seconds the compressor disengaged and the engine went back to unhindered idle speed. The A/C console was still set at Auto, so i turned it off then back on, but this time there was no compressor kick in at all. At first I thought a fuse blew, but I checked them and they were all fine. I continued on my way and decided I would just turn on the fan/blower, but it didn't work either. It didn't matter if I set the console for auto or manual, heat or cold, when I turned the fan knob to any speed it would not turn on - with the following exception: If I turned it all the way to max and waited about 10 seconds or more, then it wold blow at full speed. Same would happen if I put it on auto and turned the temperature knob to lowest or highest temperature - after 10 seconds it would turn on the fan at max speed (since I figure consoles are programmed to go to max fan at temperature extremes to get to either one faster...)Also of note: When I turned off the vehicle, and turned it back on at a later time, the compressor again wold kick in for 5 seconds then turn off......and by the way the rear fan control works just fine throughout all this.
Since the summer was over, I didn't need the A/C and figure I would fix before the next summer. Every once in the while I would test again, and a couple of months later the A/C decided to work just fine for a whole day, but then it went back to the odd behavior
So now I'm thinking the environment console is busted and I need to replace it, except other things start to behave erratically:First was the break release for the transmission lever. I wold press down on the break but could not hear the 'click' that releases the transmission lever to shift out of park. That first time I just couldn't get it to work, so I used the emergency release on the top of the steering column, but after that I could simply pump the break or release and pump repeatedly until the click happened, usually took 3 tries. The funny thing is that this becomes consistent for about a week, and then months will pass with no problems shifting out of park, only to happen again for a week...
On some rare occasions, the interior lights don't work they way they are supposed to: They'll stay on when with all doors closed even when set to turn on only with open doors, or won't turn on at all with the same setting even with a door open (rarer still, will turn on with one door, but not another). I can always just set them to remain off all the time...
Same kind of issues with the rear windows and cruise control, most times they'll work fine, others they don't.
The only thing I really need to work in this Texas heat is the A/C, but before I go get an expensive A/C console replacement, or have technicians accumulate hours and hours of diagnosis to figure out the problem, I wanted to know if perhaps these are all related as an electrical issue with a buss-bar or a junction box - or a short from stripped wires in the harness, loose terminals, etc.
We have an 03 Odyssey that we have to jump start if it sits for more than 1 day. We aren't leaving lights or radio on. Our mechanic can't figure out what is wrong. He has replaced the battery 3 times and says that is not the problem. What we are doing now is disconnecting the cables to the battery at night, so it will always start in the morning, even after two days of not driving it. It works, but it's a pain! What is causing this problem?
View 4 RepliesIt's an '03 Odyssey with 116K miles that has developed a hitch when shifting from second to third. It feels like an uncoordinated manual shift when the clutch is put in before the accelerator is lifted. Car revs 500 rpm before completing the shift. This only happens under load, such as when accelerating hard from a stop or moderate acceleration going up a hill. Not willing yet to let the dealer tell me I just need a new transmission and so few places deal with automatic repairs.
View 3 RepliesOur 2003 Odyssey had the transmission rebuilt last month after the original finally failed (215,000 miles). After the rebuild, third gear has a whine. (I don’t recall if it was there before the rebuild – it’s the wife’s ride, she wouldn't have noticed it anyway, and apparently I didn't either). The whine pitch varies with RPM, and is louder if the transmission is under a load. Going up a hill with the accelerator depressed makes the whine louder – taking your foot off the accelerator quiets it. I have a warranty for two years on the rebuild, but before I go back and start asking them about the noise, I was wondering what would cause it? I am worried they didn’t rebuild everything and will just tell me the whine is “nothing to be concerned about.” The transmission shifts smoothly and appears to operate normally other than the whine in third gear under a load.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a second-hand 2003 Honda Odyssey that had been very well-maintained. It had just had its belts changed about 6 months ago, too. After taking ownership I noticed a slight hissing sound when running the A/C. I didn't think much of it. Months later(today), I drove to work with no problems. But when I got into the car in the afternoon, I noticed the van was revving erratically. Not very high, but maybe up one full tick and then fall off. This was worrisome. Later when I got home I noticed the TSC light had come on as well.
View 12 RepliesOf late my steering column has been getting stuck in park and I have to fool with it and manipulate it between moving the steering wheel and pressing on the brake until the column releases and then I can move it into drive.
View 3 RepliesWe currently have a 2003 Honda odyssey with about 119K miles. About once a month the transmission does not want to change between 2nd and 3rd gear causing it to rev very high. The only resolution is take your foot off the gas until its back to an idle state. Now I have read that these transmissions suck and have a bunch of problems. We are driving long this summer and we need a new trans. Last year when we drove to NC the car started to buck and rev really high when on cruise control for awhile. not sure if its connected but it was not fun.
View 19 RepliesWe got this product called "Lucas Transmission Fix" to try to quell the hesitation of the transmission when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. It claims to stop slips and do other things beneficial to the transmission. The car is a 2003 Honda Odyssey. Is this product safe to use on this car? Is there the possibility that it would make the hesitation worse?
Some background information on the car:
- We bought it used last September with 137,000 miles. There are now 150,000 miles.
- Soon after we bought it, we changed the transmission fluid with Honda AFT DW
- 1 because it was slipping from 1st to 2nd gear
- After the fluid change, it started to slip from 3rd to 4th gear instead. Or maybe it was my imagination that it was slipping from 1st to 2nd before?
- The slippage is a lot more severe in cold weather / when the engine is cold
- In my last post about the Odyssey's transmission slip, some people suggested that the EGR valve be replaced. That has not been done.
- The spark plugs were changed last month. The old spark plugs were Denso, the new ones NGK-All maintenance is up to date
- The car is in good running condition other than the transmission slippage and an odd engine vibration somewhere between 1000 and 2000 RPM
- The dealer discovered oil leaks from oil filter housing gasket and rear main seal during the last oil change in mid-February. It must be a pretty small leak.
- A recall for the ignition interlock mechanism was done sometime in March
2003 Honda Odyssey 150K+ miles... My wife called today and said she was smelling raw gas coming from the heater vents on the first cold day this year. I thought we had this issue last year but not 100%. What it could be or how to fix it?
View 8 Replies2003 Honda Odyssey EXL with 236,000 miles on it was jerking, very scary, and the rpms were revving up while driving. We asked around and had it checked and was told it was the transmission. We waited 9 months, not wanting to put the money into it and let it sit, not driving it at all. Then we decided to fix it last week.
We thought we were replacing the transmission, but, after working on it, the place we took it - very reputable - only did the solenoid, saying that fixed the problem. When we took it home an hour away, it was fine - much, much better than when we left it. But, the next day my husband felt a small jerk. We took it back that night and left it with them for a couple more days. They couldn't make the problem recur, so they sent it home with us. We were getting ready to go on a major road trip, so we had the oil changed, and all other stuff for regular maintenance seemed good. Had all fluids checked and new tires on and new battery. Also had recall done on ignition switch. Left on major cross-country trip. Drove about 5 hours and it started again. Just a little - one time. No place was open and we were on deadline, so kept driving cross country.
Eventually the check engine light came on (can't remember if it was before or after started jerking), but that has been on for a couple years and we keep having it checked and they tell us it is not worth fixing - hard to figure out the emissions problem. Could be several things. One was the solenoid, another the gas cap. We had both those replaced. Problem has gotten worse as we have crossed the U.S. on Memorial Day weekend - so no opportunity to have mechanic look at it or get codes due to everything closed. Checked transmission and oil fluid levels, and they are good.
If we accelerate VERY slowly, we are okay. But, the TCS light comes on if we accelerate too quickly sometimes, and it will stay on until we stop and turn the car off. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all, but the check engine light is always on now. In the last 200 miles, we now have occasionally the D (drive) light flash - if the TCS light is on and we are getting jerking, and the rpm's stay up in the high 2's or close to 3 and the van doesn't seem to shift into the higher gear. If it flashes, it won't quit or shift into the higher gear until we stop for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then, the light will stop flashing and the rpms are okay. As long as we accelerate really slowly, really slowly, it won't flash again. One time, on an off-ramp, we jerked when we were decelerating, but that was only once in about 1500 miles - or ever as far as I can remember. The jerk on acceleration has actually been going on for a couple years, but it was always just momentary and only occasionally. Now it is a problem.
At 130,000 I replaced the transmission. Now, randomly the car has flickering lights on the dash while I am driving. The radio flickers, and the tach/speedometers drop to zero. After this happens and I turn off the car, the car will not restart. It is completely dead. If I wait 2.5 minutes, there is much clicking in the dash, then everything comes back to life. No one can figure it out. I will add that in the 9 years I've owned this thing, I have replaced 5-6 batteries. The transmission guy says something is pulling on the battery, but he nor Honda can figure out what it is.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Honda accord (161k) This summer the entire electrical system would briefly shut down. I could keep driving and the engine never completely quit but it just blinked off and then back on. It seems to do it more in hot weather.
View 1 RepliesI got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
View 14 RepliesMy 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid has recently taken to beeping when I brake, and the brake light flashes briefly. Doesn't occur all the time; more like intermittent and both the beeping and the light goes off in a matter of seconds. I've been trying to keep an eye on when it happens and I think it happens more frequently when I first start the car.
Took it to a car dealer who said it's the master brake cylinder and the car is leaking brake fluids. They even have to top it off before my husband drove it out of the service center. We of course have not noted any drips in the garage, and have been monitoring the brake fluids and after 3 weeks have not noticed any lost brake fluids. The tank is full.
To replace the master brake cylinder and some miscellaneous repairs such as air filters. It seems to me that if we are leaking brake fluids there should be a drop in the level of fluids in the tank. What to check and perhaps who else besides the dealer to take the car to for more diagnostic testing?
I have a 2007 Honda CRV AWD. The car studders/vibrates, as if driving over metal grates. Or like going over grooves in the road when moving over to the shoulder. This only happens when driving 50 mph or less. When I take my foot off the gas petal, the vibration stops, but will come back.
View 5 RepliesSo, just got this car and everything was fine until I had to be somewhere...car started up, ran briefly, died...grrrr.First noticed the check engine light, so I did, it was still there, fresh oil, etc. Then noticed the 'Check Gas Cap' light on, so I did, messed with it. Tried to start the car, same problem, light still on. Messed with the gas cap some more, car started up and stayed on! Yay! But now I'm worried! Bought a new gas cap, but that seems to be a pretty lame reason for the car to die. Any other thoughts or should I just not have bought this car?
View 7 Replies1998 accord 4 cyl auto, mostly on start up and when coming to a stop at a light it sounds like someone is under the floorpan hitting it with a hammer. maybe 5 or 6 hits. I've looked into the exhaust being loose and hitting but it's tight and has good clearance. could it be a broken motor mount letting the engine rock too much? next, SOMETIMES when the trans shifts down into low gear you get a very noticeable clunk and the car kind of shudders. planning on doing a trans drain and fill today. lastly the instrument cluster is a little strange. tach doesn't work at all, speedo is fine as is the gas guage but the temp is erratic. when the temp is acting up you can thump it with your finger and it will jump around.
View 9 RepliesMy '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
I believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
View 19 Replies