I have a '05 Honda odyssey that has recently started showing drop in rpms at approx 30MPH. At that speed, I see that RPM suddenly drops from 2500 to 2000, pressing on gas really hard, triggers downshifting of gears and everything comes back to normal. I suspect some issues with how gears are being shifted...
View 3 RepliesI had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
View 2 RepliesMy wife was recently driving our 2007 Honda Odyssey on the highway at approximately 60mph when the van suddenly and significantly decelerated. It did this while my wife had her foot on the accelerator and without her activating the brakes. It occured twice in quick succession and then the van returned to normal operation. She did not notice an increase in rpms or hear any loud noises. After this happened, I took the van to the local Honda dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the vehicle. They made an educated guess that it might be the beginning signs of a transmission failure. The van has 72000 miles on it. I am concerned about the safety implications if this were to happen again...
View 6 RepliesTwice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
This has happened a few times now. First time at a stop light, and most recently while coming down a hill. All of my needles drop and I get no response from the engine, brakes and power steering work for a little while and then they cut out. I pull over to the side of the road, turn it off, sometimes it turns back on immediately, other times it will do the same thing needles go up and back down.
View 1 Replies2003 Honda Odyssey EXL with 236,000 miles on it was jerking, very scary, and the rpms were revving up while driving. We asked around and had it checked and was told it was the transmission. We waited 9 months, not wanting to put the money into it and let it sit, not driving it at all. Then we decided to fix it last week.
We thought we were replacing the transmission, but, after working on it, the place we took it - very reputable - only did the solenoid, saying that fixed the problem. When we took it home an hour away, it was fine - much, much better than when we left it. But, the next day my husband felt a small jerk. We took it back that night and left it with them for a couple more days. They couldn't make the problem recur, so they sent it home with us. We were getting ready to go on a major road trip, so we had the oil changed, and all other stuff for regular maintenance seemed good. Had all fluids checked and new tires on and new battery. Also had recall done on ignition switch. Left on major cross-country trip. Drove about 5 hours and it started again. Just a little - one time. No place was open and we were on deadline, so kept driving cross country.
Eventually the check engine light came on (can't remember if it was before or after started jerking), but that has been on for a couple years and we keep having it checked and they tell us it is not worth fixing - hard to figure out the emissions problem. Could be several things. One was the solenoid, another the gas cap. We had both those replaced. Problem has gotten worse as we have crossed the U.S. on Memorial Day weekend - so no opportunity to have mechanic look at it or get codes due to everything closed. Checked transmission and oil fluid levels, and they are good.
If we accelerate VERY slowly, we are okay. But, the TCS light comes on if we accelerate too quickly sometimes, and it will stay on until we stop and turn the car off. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all, but the check engine light is always on now. In the last 200 miles, we now have occasionally the D (drive) light flash - if the TCS light is on and we are getting jerking, and the rpm's stay up in the high 2's or close to 3 and the van doesn't seem to shift into the higher gear. If it flashes, it won't quit or shift into the higher gear until we stop for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then, the light will stop flashing and the rpms are okay. As long as we accelerate really slowly, really slowly, it won't flash again. One time, on an off-ramp, we jerked when we were decelerating, but that was only once in about 1500 miles - or ever as far as I can remember. The jerk on acceleration has actually been going on for a couple years, but it was always just momentary and only occasionally. Now it is a problem.
I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1983 Honda Accord (manual with nearly 200,000 miles) when rolling to a stop or at a stop rpms drop below 1000 and it stalls out. I can start it back up without hesitation.No hesitation at initial startup or after sitting short or long time, it idles while in park rpms about 1000.When I feel the engine about to stall while rolling to a stop or at stop, if I put my left foot on the brake pedal, slightly step on the gas pedal with my right foot it prevents the engine from stalling. At stop if I put in park, rpms raise and don’t need to give it gas.
I'm unable [& unqualified] to work on my car. Given I drive only about 1,000 mi year; my alternate form of transportation is a bus or kindness of friends, I’m on a limited income, cannot afford to buy/ spend more than 2,000 -- my question if 2-foId, 1. is it possible that something it is nothing major and worth repairing/replacing (ex. air control/idle air bypass valve, a dirty throttle body or even carburetor)?2. Or, as discussed with one mechanic, since the car is 33 years old, during or soon after repair other problems (dried out vacuum hoses or major) will follow. Plus, parts can be difficult if not impossible to replace as a I spoke to mechanic pointed out.Given the car’s age is it worth repairing?
My 1998 Honda accord coupe 3.0 has 225 k miles has a new sending unit, fuel pump, main relay, ignition switch, and spark plugs. I cannot find the source of why my car will not start I replaced these things on my car due to car didn't want start. Then it was fine every time I would turn a corner or drive it rpms would drop like I was running out of gas then it would die now it will not start.
I have checked all fuses. I have read in forums that this could take a lot of money to fix only because no one knows the source of why its not starting. I am a disabled female that is just trying too have a running vehicle and can't figure out why it won't start. It has a new battery but won't hold a charge. Had charged it from my friends car for 25 minutes it gave it enough juice to put it in neutral and push it in the driveway with another car.
The passenger-side automatic door on my 2005 odyssey will not close 75% of the time. It doesn't matter if I use the button on the dash, the door handle, or the button on the fob. The door will start to close until it has about 6 inches left to go, and then the door will make a loud clunking sound and beep as it opens up again. I've tried turning the automatic switch off on the dashboard and shutting it manually, and it won't close that way either. I can't budge it. The only way I've been able to get it to close when it's like this is by turning the car back on, putting it into drive, and then closing using the button on the dashboard. It will still start to open up, but I can get it to close by pushing the button again, although it jerks and closes very reluctantly.
View 2 RepliesAbout a week or 2 ago my car wouldn't start. So i jump started it and i thought that was all there was gonna be with that. I ran to a couple of stores and every time after each store it started just fine. I go to get up the next morning and start my car...does not wanna start. so i put a new battery in it. the van started right up after i put the new battery in. I ran to my moms and some other places and after everyone of those places it started up just fine.
I accidentally left the interior lights on the other night and did need a jump yesterday but i went a few places again yesterday and shut my car off and never needed a jump all day every time I went to restart my car.....and then i go to get in it this morning and it does not want to start....i have taken the positive cable of the battery off while its running and it doesn't stop and someone told me that if it doesn't stop running its not the alternator..is this true? what might be wrong my van?!?!
I have an '05 Honda Odyssey, that has a wobble in the steering wheel, when I am going more than 60 mph. It has 87K miles on it. Tires seem smooth. Below 40mph it is not there or un-noticable. There is no pulling left or right, it does not seem to get worse if I go from 60 to 80.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2005 Honda Odyssey and recently it started to "wobble" at relatively high speeds. I think I've isolated the scenario in which it wobbles the most. If I travel between 65-70 mph and then take my foot off the accelerator to coast, the car wobbles when it hits 60mph. It will continue to wobble until the speed goes down to around 55mph. By accelerating, I can get the wobbling to stop. This is the only time I've noticed this occurring. I'm kind of strapped for cash, so I hesitate bringing it in the dealer.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
I have a 2005 honda odyssey van and the oxygen sensor light keeps coming on.
View 5 RepliesMy Odyssey has 110,000 miles but since about 50,000 miles (I can't exactly remember) it makes a loud wining sound from the engine when I slow down, gets louder when I turn a corner, like going into a parking spot. The problem is it comes and goes and I can't seem to pin point what kind of weather or other conditions make it happen.
View 1 RepliesThis is hard to believe but...the engine was making a freaky clicking noise. It started to getting a little louder and then the car suddenly lost acceleration on us. We took it in and the mechanic said that a spark plug broke off inside the cylinder and chewed things up badly. The threads in the block are bored out also. He states he can "band aid" it with some kit, but then recommends selling in and buying new. My question - Should I go that route or is engine replacement a better option? 90K miles, 6 years old. Not sure what engine replacement would cost...
View 12 RepliesI have a 2005 Honda Odyssey. A few day ago I noticed a weird smell, sort of like burning chemicals, only after driving the 25 miles to work and later that day the same. Drove it over the weekend around town with no problems. Just to be safe, took it to my trusted local mechanic on Monday...he could find no problems except black walnut debris from critters. Drove it to work Tuesday, no problems there. On way home at stop sign, hit the gas to go forward and car wouldn't go forward. Luckily I was going downhill and could pull over.
Tow truck driver was able to drive it up flatbed and brought it to shop. Mechanic said transmission fluid was dark and flush/changed it three times. It is driving absolutely fine with no problems(to the surprise of my mechanic) though mechanic said transmission life may be limited. I am now afraid to drive my car as I commute to work and have three children. It has 106,000 miles and always has been maintained on schedule. The transmission fluid was flushed last year for the first time at around 95,000 miles as recommended by mechanic.
I have a very well maintained 2005 honda odyssey with 150,000 miles on it. It typically gets 22 m.p.g. It started using an unusual amount of gas - was getting 12 m.p.g. Took it to the mechanic and turned out the gas pump was cracked. We replaced the gas pump and the gas line, and it was getting 14 m.p.g. Took it to another mechanic, and he said that the spark plugs were the problem as they were not official Honda spark plugs (we replaced them at around 110,000 miles). So we installed the official Honda spark plugs, but still no good. I have visited several mechanics and no one seems to know.
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