Honda - Odyssey :: 2006 - Charging System Indicator Light Came On
Sep 8, 2013
Last night, our '06 Honda Odyssey's red "charging system indicator" light came on. I quickly looked it up in the book, as sudden red lights on our car scare me, and it said that "The battery is not being charged. Go to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance." Well, that was useful. It's Sunday.We turned off all the extra electric (a/c, lights, etc)on the way home. On the way home (less than 5 miles) several other indicator lights flashed on and off periodically.
The ABS, VSA and brake system indicator lights. We also noted that the headlights seemed dimmer than normal. When we got home, the front end smelled hot, but no smoke or anything. This morning, I looked to make sure all connections were tight, and they were. We had turned the master light switch off last night, but the door lights (on the bottom edge came on when I opened the door. Other than that, we have not tried cranking it, as I'm afraid that it will totally drain the battery.
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Less than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
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Just installed on new alternator when my 2008 Odyssey broke down while on Va-ca in Utah. Battery charging warning light went on, slight electrical burn smell, battery drained. No power, car went into limp mode. Had it towed to nearby mechanic. Three days waiting for part.Replaced alternator and told me everything was cool. Only made it 50 miles after I picked it up. Same problem traveling through Mountain pass 6% grade with my wife and kids aboard. Had it towed again, only 5 days to make it 1500 miles back to work..
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The charging system light has started to flicker on and off when it is wet outside. It does not come on and stay on. What to look for in the way of causes?
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Noticed the warning indicator on dash, linage of a battery, this morning. Thought maybe battery needed to be replaced? So got replacement battery and installed it, but warning light still on.
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I just bought a 2013 Hyundai sonata (this is my first car) and I found a wired thing happening when I just turn on the car (without turning on the engine) that Malfunction indicator light, Changing System warning system warning light, EPS and Check Engine Light are ALL on but after I start the engine, these lights will be off. Is this normal or there is something wrong with it?
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2000 Honda Odyssey, Gear indicator light on ther dash works when I start the van, however, when I turn on the headlights, the gear indicator and the gauge illumination lights do not work, when I switch the headlights off the gear indicator light works again. I checked the fuses and replaced them just to check.
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I have a problem with electric power steering in the Lexus GS300 2006. System indicator does not light up even in the moments after ignition, fuses are OK. Where is the power steering module ?? I looked next to the brake pedal but it is not there...
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2000 Honda Odyssey - from inside the van, we have a rattle sound that seems to come from the climate control system. Leaves have been cleaned out, rattle went away for 3-4 days then came back. Rattle is while system is on or off, warm or cold engine. Sound is like a hamster wheel or maybe boiling water.
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My 2006 Honda Odyssey lost the a/c last week. No cold air. After troubleshooting myself, I took it to the shop I use and they came up with it being the compressor clutch. But you can just replace the clutch, so a new compressor. My question is... What's a good price for this repair? In this vehicle the compressor replacement requires the alternator, etc... To come out first before you can even get to the compressor. So, I'm not really excited enough about it to do it myself. Which I think could, except for the discharging the refrigerant.
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I have a 2006 Odyssey, 120,000 miles that has really been trouble free. Last year, while on vacation, the alternator went out, and it was replaced. Since that time, maybe a coincidence, I have had episodes where when I turn the key to start up, there is no response. The dash lights come on, but the engine does not even act like it wants to start. I turn the key a few more times, then the engine starts without a hesitation. This went on a few times before I took it in to the dealer. Of course, it did not have a problem starting there, so they checked the battery, and the battery cables. For the past year this has gone on very sporadically. It may go a month between episodes, or it may happen 3-4 times in a week, or even a day. Every time though, it will eventually start. Over the past year we have eventually replaced the battery, and one time we thought the problem was solved when the starter went out. However, the problem continues.
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2006 Honda Odyssey with about 120,000 miles on it. Check engine light and VSA light came on at the same time. Car vibrates dramatically and has little to no acceleration. Put off the engine and restarted. Car worked fine after that. Has happened twice in the last 2 weeks. What this might be + what do I need to do to fix it?
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I took my parents 2006 Honda Odyssey with less than 50k miles to the local Sears to have the tires balanced since the steering wheel was vibrating at highway speeds (65 -75mph). The car sounded fine when we dropped it off, however, when we picked up the car I noticed that starting from about 5 mph on up, there was a loud noise that initially sounded like something was stuck to the contact patch of the tire. The frequency and decibel level of the noise would increase in sync with the car speed up to about 60 - 65 mph. Then, either the noise would fade or the wind noise would drown it out. I'm not sure which. We took it back to Sears to show them.
Checked tires and nothing was on the contact patch of the tires. They claim that it was a coincidence that the wheels started making noises immediately after they finished working on it. They said that it is probably bad wheel hub bearings. Is it possible that this was just a coincidence? Why would the bearing not make any noises before the wheels were balanced? Is it possible that balancing the tires messed up the drive train (and it not be the mechanics fault)? Or did they simply mess up/sabotage the wheel and are not fessing up to it?
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Off late my Honda Odyssey steering wheel wobble beyond 60MPH ONLY while going STRAIGHT and foot off of the GAS (which enters eco mode).My mechanic looked at it and said, it is not alignment or any mechanical issue. I looked at the other posts and I could not find any closer to this.
One more thing, I have got the Steering Pump fixed as part of a Recall ( at slow speeds, while turning makes a lot of noise)
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with a little less than 50,000 miles on it. I love my car!! It is so comfortable and so durable. But.. lately if I have been driving at a high rate of speed, such as on the highway,for an extended period of time (at least 20 minutes) when I slow down or come to a stop it sounds like a quiet fire engine siren. I can't think of any other way to describe. Of course, I took it to my Honda service center and they couldn't replicate the sound. I even took the service person for a ride, but we didn't go far enough for it to happen. They said they gave it a thorough once over, but it is still happening. I don't want to take it back to them until I have something to guide them in the right direction. I love my Honda and I really want it to last me a very long time.
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The Honda dealer tells me that both of the van's CV joint boots are torn/leaking. Their recommended solution is to replace both front CV axles at a cost of about $500 per axle.
Is replacing the axle the standard repair when the boot is torn, or is the dealer trying to "over-fix" the problem at a greater cost to me? Can't they just replace the boots (at a lower cost, hopefully)?
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I have a 2006 Odyssey with 86,000 miles. Almost every day the horn completely freezes for five seconds or so, occasionally under fast-moving traffic conditions (and often several times a day). The problem is that the condition is erratic and only acts up when the car is on the road for a while. Because of these preconditions, the dealership has been unable to diagnose or fix the problem, though I admit they did make a fair amount of effort to do so.
Over the course of this year, I believe I have brought the car in four times to the dealership with this complaint, only to be told that they can't find the problem. Last week, in desperation, I took the car to an independent mechanic, who told me he doesn't have the proper equipment to diagnose the problem and that I needed to bring it to a Honda dealership!
I really feel my car is unsafe as is but don't know what to do now.
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with 40K miles. The valves have been making a chattering noise for awhile now. I have tried different brands of gas (highest grade) - no luck. I took the car in to the dealer while it was still under warranty they could not find anything wrong. I took it again lately and they said not to worry. It seems like some sensor is not functioning properly but I could be wrong.
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My Odyssey lost power on a long uphill about a week ago. I took it to my mechanic and he said that one of the cylinders is bad. No pressure. He told me that I need a new engine.My questions, can this engine be repaired?If not, what should I do about getting a new engine. What would be a good option on used engines?I live in San Francisco and I have been driving it slowly like that, but I try to avoid uphills as much as possible.
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The red battery light on my 2003 gx470 with 106k miles came on while starting the truck up today. I had the alternator tested by my mechanic and it was outputting 13.0v -13.1v which was low but not causing any loss of power. The battery on two years old and tested out fine. Nothing was flickering, no loss of electrical components, etc. It's the original alternator and I'm going on a 1000 mile round trip vacation this weekend for 10 days I so decided to swap out the alternator since if it was "going" I didn't want it going 500 miles from home. My mechanic does the swap and starts the truck up with no issues and no red light on. Lets it run for 15 minutes and turns off the truck. 20 minutes later they start the truck up to switch lifts so they could balance and rotate the tires and boom the light goes on again? Turns it off and on a few times...light stays on. After testing everything out My mechanic decides it must be a bad alternator or the regulator inside the alternator and gets a different one from a different manufacturer, a Duralast this time from AutoZone. Installs it and the red light comes on immediately. The alternator is putting out 14v.
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This has happened five times within the past couple of months. I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT. In all cases, I was accelerating while going uphill. I am in Chicago so by uphill, think expressway ramp. The Charging System Light and warning bell come on for about a second and then shuts off. When I get home, I check the battery. In all cases, it is fully charged. The battery is six months old. What could be causing this?
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