To my knowledge, if the timing belt goes the engine shuts down. According to others on Hyundai forums, you can blow the engine in a Hyundai Elantra if the timing belt goes. Is the latter really the case?
View 9 RepliesI bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
View 10 RepliesVehicle is an 08 Hyundai Accent 1.6L three door (hatchback) with 20,197 miles. This car was born on Oct. 16, 2007 and purchased in April of 2008. I told the owner to call the dealer and find out about when they should replace the timing belt as I had looked it up at the Gates site and found that it is an interference motor and also these Hyundai have some kind of lengthy warranty. When the tech or whoever she spoke to at the dealership asked about the mileage, they told her that she does not need to worry about the belt for about another five years, were rude and sounded inconvenienced by her calling. This leaves her with a bad taste in her mouth and more importantly, mis-informed.
I get the "Maintenance Log" out of the glove box and upon trying to decipher the timing belt interval, it states that the first course of action is an "inspection" at 30,000 miles or 24 months. How is a timing belt inspected? From what I have seen, a belt can look perfect today and snap tomorrow. But anyway, the next entry for severe service is replacement at 37,500 miles or 30 months which means this belt should have been replaced in October of 2010. Next entry is normal change at 60,000 miles or 48 months which puts us at April of 2012. After this it goes to 75,000 miles or 60 months.
I have already picked up the kit for changing the belt, tensioner, idler, and the two seals. How critical is it to change the spring as that was not included in the kit I got? I'm planning to do this job here in the next couple days as from what I can figure from the above log, It's way over due. I was reading some Hyundai forums and one stated that the 2011 model with the exact same engine calls for the first replacement due at 90,000 miles. How's this possible? Seems like these people (engineers) don't have all their stuff in one bag...
So my car started skipping really badly about two weeks ago and sometimes even shuts off by itself. Now I've had two different mechanics try to fix this unsuccessfully. One replace the coil for two of the spark plugs and the wires for all four, didn't work. The other mechanic replaced the crank sensor, 15 minutes on the drive home from them, the skipping started again. Both mechanics found no issue driving it around right after replacing something, but the problem occurred after a day for each fix. Yesterday I put in some dry gas in the full tank, thinking it might be some bad gas or maybe I got some condensation, because the stalling didn't happen until recently when my mom filled up the gas tank completely.
Today I took the car for ride down to the end of my dead end road and the car stalled part way down, once I got to the end I put the car in park and then turned the car completely off then back on again. The car started fine and I drove back up to my house and parked in my driveway, I revved the engine in park and at around 3,000 rpm, it skipped once. I revved a few more times, but no skipping, I took it out for a ride and went about 10 miles with no skipping(but I kept the rpm under 3,000). Once i got back home I parked it and kept revving it for a few minutes even getting up to 4,000 rpm but still no skipping. I don't think the problem is fixed because both the first mechanic and the second had no issues with it right after they tried something, only for it to not have worked in the end. What it could be? This car has been my main mode of transportation so I need to get it working as fast as possible.
I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
I have a 2009 Elantra (automatic) that already has 52K miles on it. I drive a lot mostly at highway speeds. I know several people who recommend having the timing belt replaced BEFORE the warranty runs out at 60K miles.
The dealership has a 60K inspection where they "inspect" the timing belt (plus a whole lot of "fluff" checks, tire rotation etc) I'd rather just take it in and get it replaced. What should a timing belt replacement cost?
My girls family has had an 08 elantra 2.0 new since 2008 and I've been doing the work. I recently did the timing belt ( July) with beck arnley oem parts. 65000 miles. I replaced belt, idler, and tensioner.
Right after I did it there was a mild hum at idle. It somewhat did this before the belt so I assumed it was just the new belt in plus the very mild hum it already had.
Recently it is humming very loud and high Pitched. It gets louder with higher rpm. If I take the cover of and move the needle on the tensioner while it's running it quiets down a little but it's an auto tensioner and doesn't stay right where it needs to be AND even when it is at the ideal spot it still hums.
I recently replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and roller in my car. Today I became concerned that I hadn't tightened the tensioner properly so I did a quick check (it was). I also noticed the timing belt felt a bit loose, so I tightened it to what I thought was about 1/4" deflection with 5lbs pressure—not what that feels like in that tight space.
When I started the car there was a noticeable whining sound. Before I changed the belt there was a slight whining sound (but there was no whine after I changed the belt). So I loosened the belt a bit and there's now a slight whine. I feel like the whine shouldn't be there but it's hard for me to imagine that the belt should be any looser since I can move it 1/4" inch without much effort.
So, should I be tightening the belt to the point where the whining is gone, or is a slight whine ok?
I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
View 9 Replies2008 Hyundai Elantra, 2.0 it. We replaced a bad water pump, and timing belt while we were there. I followed directions found on multiple websites. We spun the crank shaft to the top dead center mark on the crank sprocket/engine block, and the cam sprocket / assignment mark. Then removed tensioner, and belt. Installed new belt and ensured alignment marks had not moved. Applied pressure to tensioner and tightened. Reassembled everything else. Car started with no problems, drive for about twenty minutes started making clicking sound from under the hood, we turned around to come back home and the car still making clicking sounds gradually started to loose power and speed until the engine stalled and would not restart. Trying to find out what could have happened.
View 2 RepliesI got 123000 km on my car. Manual says 144000 km is the right mileage to replace the belt, but I have heard opinions that it should be done earlier.
View 7 RepliesI was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
View 1 RepliesI recently removed my timing cover due to a coolant leak and found the cover was cracked. I had it welded and reinstalled but i did not remove the crank sensor from the cover while it was being welded. Now the engine starts but shuts right back down. Do the welding may have damaged the sensor and giving me this condition? 1997 4.2 ....
View 1 RepliesI have a 91 Camry and have just replaced the timing belt and water pump. I thought I did everything right. I made sure the Crankshaft Pulley was aligned to TDC and I turned the Cams to the right marks. I turned the crank by hand numerous times and everything lined up.
I lowered the motor back on to the mounts but didn't connect all the belts to the alternator and compressor. I just wanted to see if it would fire up. Well nothing happened, it turns over but won't start. I pulled some of the plugs and they are bone dry. Sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle body and still nothing. When I turn the key to Accs. Shouldn't I hear the fuel pump wind up? I can't remember but I don't hear a thing.
So my dilemma is, did I screw up the cam/crank alignment and just don't realize it? Like I said all the marks line up fine. Do I need to put everything back together i.e. the Cruise Actuator, Power Steering reservoir, and all belts before I can start it up? It seemed to me I would at least get a hint off life without putting everything back. Then again, I'm not mechanic.
Recently I changed the timing belt on a 2004 Passat 1.8T and I realized I put the timing tensioner off by a few millimeters due to misunderstanding. I started the engine and it didn't sound very healthy. So I took off the timing belt and realized the tensioner was off by 8 millimeters. I corrected it and restarted the engine and it began back-firing. I re-checked and replaced the belt 3 more times and it still back-fired. The engine runs perfectly from a few seconds to a few minutes, then begins back firing and it stalls out. I had a recent post and I had suggestions to check all hoses, connections, etc. and to scan the computer for error codes. I did so and got the codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304. These codes mean back-fire in cylinders 2-4. I don't see any valve adjustments in the engine so could the valves be bent and do I have to replace them? God forbid D: Or do I have to reset some kind of computer code in the car or any other error that may need adjusting? All connections, hoses, wires, etc. are good. I've been a professional mechanic/technician for 25 years now and fixed cranes, bulldozers, semi-trucks, and anything else you can name that has wheels and is land based, all sorts of engines, gas, diesel, ethanol, you name it... I also worked on several VW's, including my own, and figured this V-Dub would be a walk in the park , but it turns out this Passat is the most complicated thing I've worked on in my life!
View 8 RepliesI replace my timing belt and water pump and my engine is now over heating. I notice it's only over heats when the ac is running and the engine is idling. When I start to drive the engine temp goes down.
View 1 RepliesMy mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 V6. T belt replaced by dealer at 62K. Noticed engine vibration when picked up vehicle. RPM is steady, engine runs smooth, no error codes, no strange noises. Mechanic who did the work confirmed vibration problem and recommended bringing it back - had no answer on the cause but mentioned lose motor mounts which I doubt - the car ran perfect until the dealer did the work.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
I have a 2009 Sante Fe with 60,258 miles. I had the timing belt changed at 60,000 miles at the dealer. I now have a check engine light that shows the following two codes.
P0321
P0612
These codes are related to a timing belt change? Could a sensor have been removed for the work and not replaced correctly?