When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 3 Replieswhen car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 5 RepliesThe cruise control cuts out after driving for 25+ minutes. The rpm's rev up to 4000 and the speedometer goes wild just before cutting off. It can be reset but does not hold for long. Short trips and a cooling-off period for the engine seem to work. The dealer could not replicate the condition.
View 1 RepliesFirst, while driving, my radio dies, my lights start to dim, and I lose my power steering. The first local shop I took it to installed a new alternator and I drove it home. Died again while I was driving. They then replaced three alternators with same results thinking they were bad. Ended up refunding my $400 and putting my original alternator back in and I had my car towed to the Hyundai dealer.
They had car for four days while testing it after charging the battery. They could find nothing wrong with it(again, no charge). Picked it up and drove it home(with someone following me). Two day latter, dead again. What is draining my battery? Do I have a short or something?
So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. If we go out of town, or any time we don't drive the Tuscan for three days or more we always come back to a dead battery. I mean really dead. I mean, get a new battery dead. Since 2005 when we bought the vehicle new, we've had nine—9—new batteries put in. The last one was a heavy duty battery recommended by the dealer.
This problem started after the dealer replaced the OEM radio. We've had multiple checks done on the engine to find out where the (battery) draw is coming from. I researched and found a Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin saying that the problem is from a defective stereo. But my dealer says they can't locate the problem.
We've also had the battery posts cleaned and other things done. The vehicle runs fine and has had few problems except for this nagging battery problem.
Does it every time. It started suddenly out of the blue. Start it up if i leave town i get 3 or 4 miles out if ni stay in town i might get back home from post office if i hustle. Let it sit 10 or 15 minutes and it will start again for 4 or 5 mins. again. I have replaced the distributor the whole unit and replaced the ignition switch, both parts are new.
View 5 RepliesI have a "56 thunderbird with a mid-60"s ford 390 engine w/ 4 bbl holley. I just had engine completely rebuilt and everything else is new: carb, distributor, electric fuel pump, fuel tank, etc.
Problem: car stalls and dies after a few minutes of driving. Generally restarts after waiting about a half hour, but not always. I have a fuel filter with clear bowl in fuel line just ahead of carb. The bowl is usually about 2/3 full of fuel, but general appears empty when the car stalls.
After waiting a while, the bowl refills and the car restarts.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
The truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 and when it will start is runs for about 20 min then turns off. When I go to start the truck again the theft light flashes rapidly and the glow plug light never turns off. I have tried reprogramming the key to the PATS by leaving it turned for 30 minute then turning it back then starting and that worked for a few times but it doesn't anymore. Additionally I used to be able to take the terminals off the batteries for 20 minutes or so and then it would start after re connecting them but now I have to leave the batteries off for like 24 hours then it will start fine 1 time run for 20 minutes and die and won't start all over again.
I have a snap on solus pro I am borrowing to figure it out but am not very familiar with it, I can only find codes P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid circuit (but mine is 4x4) and U1262 data fault for J1850 there is nothing pulling up under the PATS option in the scanner so I don't know whats wrong or where to even begin, it just shuts off.. The truck runs great till it shuts off, buzz test in the scanner doesn't do anything and neither does the glow plug test. When the truck dies is just turns off like someone turned the key off, no running rough or anything first, I am pretty sure the computer is shutting off the injectors and then locking me out.
I had driven my car over 13 miles when it went into an idle mode and would not go above 1250 rpm. After dealership did approved tests they stated #4 piston had 25 lbs pressure and needed to be replaced. After breaking down the motor, they dealership stated that my car was vandalized and I have attached picture of the wood chips sitting on the piston. Dealer stated that someone placed the wood chips down my spark plug chamber. First door always locked and 2nd no damage to the hood and 3td how was I able to drive 13 miles before the car shut down, 4th chips look like brand new with no damage and not discolored and there was no smell of fuel on the chips.
View 19 RepliesIt is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.
Early 2004 (IPC under turbo) 163000 miles. Injectors done last summer. Stock. Got a call that this guy died on the highway. By the time I got there (45 minutes?), it started and ran fine. He drove it for ahile, shut it down, drove it some more and it died again. I finally got it in and looked it over and test drove it. It died on me twice (Both times, I was pulled over and stopped. How lucky is that?) When it died, it showed that the Desired ICP dropped to zero just before the actual and the ICP voltage did. I wasn't watching the Regulator%. Cranking, it showed about 210 ICP and .19 ICP voltage. After it sat for maybe 10 minutes, it finally started.
Now, my question is, do I have a ICP problem or an electrical problem? My thinking is an electrical problem because to me, it doesn't seem like the oil would cool off enough in 10 minutes to allow it to become thick enough to build pressure again. I also noticed that the ICP dropped down to as low as about 590 at low idle once the oil temp was up to about 190, but it wasn't always that low - usually it was around 625ish. I have it idling right now and recording Sync now, but of course it's running fine. If my sync drops out, I need to change the Cam sensor or crank sensor, correct? If it doesn't drop out, I have a ICP problem. Does that sound right?
I've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
The strangest thing happened to me on the way home yesterday from work. I was driving about 110 all the way home on a highway and took an exit to my local area when i noticed as i approached the ramp i wasn't able to shift into any gears. It just felt like there was something blocking me, like a wall of rubber or something. I stopped the car on the side of the road, unsure what was going on. While the car was on and my foot on the clutch, i am able to move into all gears perfectly fine but its when i start moving i cannot go into the others. Strange. I was able to force it into second gear from first but it sounded like two plates or discs sort of sliding around on each other..maybe that was my imagination but i stopped and didn't proceed further.
While i was sitting waiting for the tow truck, i remember that the last few months it has been getting harder and harder to get into gears while driving. I would be driving and would have some resistance to get into the pocket. This progressively got worse and i guess lead to this point where i am unable to get anywhere.
First thing i thought was the transmission, but i am able to go forward in first and reverse okay and the clutch pedal was not to the floor. The clutch was recently changed, approx 20k ago.
Could it be something easy to fix? Perhaps the clutch cable has stretched out and it is not pulling me far enough into the gears making it impossible to shift. Maybe the master or slave clutch cylinder have failed? I am not sure at all!
I've taken my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (95K miles) to the dealer twice to be serviced because it is jerking while driving - mostly in low speeds, but sometimes even in fifth gear - and occasionally stalls while stopped. the jerking happens while driving, not when the clutch is engaged. The first time I took it to the dealer they said it was a loose battery cable. After about a week the problem started again.
I took the car again to the dealer and they did something like rearrange the ignition coils. It drove better on the test drive and for the past several weeks I have had no problems, but just today the same problem started again. It seems to happen more when the AC is on, but has happened when the AC is off. The dealer also told me the clutch is very worn and that we should have it replaced - I'm hesitant to spend the money replacing the clutch if it's not causing the jerking, i.e., if there is something else wrong with the car. Would a worn clutch cause these symptoms?
So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?