Hyundai - Sonata :: 2002 Sways When Driving On Rough Roads
Jan 22, 2011
My 2002 hyundai sonata drives fine but when i drive it on poth holes or rough roads, the car sways. What the problem is?
View 4 Replies
Jan 22, 2011
Advertisement
Hyundai - Sonata - Suspension - Struts :: 2005 - Sways Violently Side To Side At High Speed?
It is like floating peacefully along in a canoe on a calm lake, and then being passed by a speed boat. Our 05 Hyundai Sonata sways/rocks violently left to right at speeds higher than 50 mph, when going over bumps, or around curves to the right. It also happens when being passed by tractor trailers on the highway, and when high wind gusts hit the car. It is worse when the car is full of our family and luggage. We just drove from New Hampshire to Georgia and back dealing with this frightening problem the whole way. The Hyundai dealership in Buford Georgia said it was our struts, so we get new rear struts. Unfortunately we discovered that was not the problem once we hit the highway to head home. The problem persisted. Our local mechanic in New Hampshire does not see anything wrong, but said it is missing the splash shield under the engine which may cause uneven wind pressure. I truly feel that something is very wrong, but do not know what.
View 4 RepliesHyundai Sonata :: 2005 - Rough Driving On Highway At Speeds 65 To 75 Mph
My sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
View 5 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Roof Is Squeaking When On Rough Roads?
I only have 800 miles on it, it squeaks when on un even roads. also, does your trunk make a noise when opening? like opening a rust door hinge? when do i do? i called dealership, they freaking not responding.
View 3 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: 2005 - Squeaking When Going Over Bumps / Rough Roads
I have a 2005 NF sonata elite 4 cylinder 147k on it. have a problem with a squeaking noise when car goes over rough road, bumps or pot holes. Had 2 new shocks put in the front today and got car back but noise was still there but not as frequent. Have returned car and they will take new ones out and put back old ones as they where still ok just wear on them no major issues.
View 14 RepliesTiguan :: Headliner Rattle Behind Sunroof When Driving Over Rough Roads
A rattle has developed coming from the headliner behind the sunroof, I hear it when driving over rough roads. It seems most noticeable on the passenger side. I can replicate it if I thump on the headliner in the backseat behind the sunroof. I can make it stop if I push up against the headliner when sitting in the back seat. And I am pretty sure its not coming from the sunroof which has its own set of noises.
View 3 RepliesSonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Squeaky Sunroof While Driving On Bumpy Roads
The sunroof seems to squeak a lot while driving on bumpy/ uneven roads.
Before I didn't know where the squeaking sound was coming from, I assumed it was from the doors. But when I opened up the sunroof the squeaks went away and when I closed it the squeaks came back. The sound is so irritating sometimes that I am forced to drive with the sunroof open.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Back Door Rattle When Driving On Moderately Rough Roads
I have a 2012 Santa fe SE that with 22k miles on it. I have developed an annoying rattle in the back driver side door. I have gone around all of the doors with a screwdriver and tightened up everything but this rattle persists when driving on moderately rough roads. As odd as it seems I believe it also occurs more frequently on smooth roads when going around a left curve.
View 10 RepliesChevy - Blazer :: 2002 - Driving On Steep Island Roads
I recently moved to a place in the Caribbean that has very steep paved & unpaved roads, lots of potholes. I have a 2002 Chevy blazer, has 4wd, hi & low (not automatic 4wd). What is the best way to drive these roads? Someone told me its ok to leave the truck in 4wd when on "the country" roads even though they are paved but the Chevy manual says not to do this. I have been putting it in second to go down the hills. Still figuring out up hill. I'm not used to driving this terrain and want to learn it right.
View 5 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2002 - Overheating When Driving On Mountain Roads
I have a 2002 Subaru Outback that has started overheating only when I try to go up into the mountains. It starts within a few miles of starting up a steep grade and cools down the instant you start down the mountain. I have had no problems with regular driving conditions. The only pertinent info might be that it did have a coolant leak last summer and overheated then.
View 8 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 - Burnt Rubber Smell After Driving On Some Winding Roads
I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited.
I recently noticed a burnt rubber smell after driving on some winding roads where I live. It's only coming from one side of the car. So I had it in for an oil change and tire rotation on Saturday and they told me the following:
My front brakes were 13. My left rear (5) is wearing harder than my right rear (10). Could this be a caliper issue? Or maybe something is just stuck? Maybe take off the tires and lube or grease things up. There aren't any recalls other than a stop lamp switch.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Strut Leaking - Rattle Or Clunk When Driving Over Rough Roads At Slow Speeds
I have a 2011 SF 2.4L FWD GLS with 79k miles. I replaced the OE struts and shocks 3 weeks ago with Monroe OE Spectrum struts and shocks. This improved the ride tremendously especially on the front passenger side where the strut was leaking.
After driving it for 3 weeks I still feel a little rattle or clunk when driving over ruff roads at slow speeds. I did check the ball joint and wheel bearings while I was in there, and I am certain they are not the source of the noise. I also checked the strut mount when I transferred it to the new strut, and while it appeared and felt ok I think it is the most likely cause of the remaining rattle and clunk.
Any aftermarket strut mounts for this particular model year? I have looked at RockAuto and they have a Moog Part # HYSB9816. This part claims it is for the European builds. Is there really a difference for this particular part?
Toyota - 4runner :: 2002 - Code P0420 But Only When Driving On Dirt Roads
2002 4Runner 4x4, 180K miles. I bought this car about a year ago and don't know anything about its history before that but it seems to be in good shape.
About every month or two I take a trip that includes driving a few miles on a dirt road. It is a graded road in pretty decent shape. What has happened about 6 times during the year is that the CEL comes on while I am driving on the dirt road. The car continues to run well. When I get home and hook up my code reader the code is always P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold.
To save everyone the trouble of looking that up, this code indicates that either the upstream or downstream A/F Ratio sensor is bad. If both sensors test good then it is probably a bad cat.
What is different here is that after I clear the code, the CEL stays off as long as I stay on paved roads. So to summarize, I don't get the code every time I drive on a dirt road but every time the CEL has come on it is while I was on a dirt road.
So it seems that something about driving on a dirt road causes the CEL. Two obvious things you get on a dirt road are dust and vibration. What could be causing this? I did a visual inspection of the whole exhaust but did not see anything obvious such as cracks or leaks.
And of course I could live with this if I have to since it comes up under such limited circumstances. I just like to keep my cars running properly.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Driver Side Seat Making Squeak Noises When Driving Over Patchy Roads
Just noticed the drivers bucket seat has started making squeak noises when driving over patchy roads. I know that using lube can solve it. My question is can the average person do this and does the seat have to be removed to fix the noise. It looks like 4 bolts will remove it, Now the tricky part. I have looked under the seat and see an electrical cable does this have to be unplugged and do I have to remove the Neg battery cable?
View 10 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2009 - Rough Idle / No Power
I'm looking to sell my 2009 sonata soon. I had an engine light and saw p0017 a couple weeks ago, accompanied by a tapping noise from the engine that speeds up as the engine does. On Friday I figured I'd take it for an oil change before getting a price on it from carmax, but didn't wanna bother spending a lot to fix whatever was causing the code/noise. My Last oil change was August 2015, 6k miles ago. Jiffy lube said the oil was low and clearly it had been a long time since I had a change (time, yes, but not so many miles, but guilty I guess) so they recommended an engine flush. I said ok. Drove the car home from them and all seemed fine.
Went to drive it Saturday night and it shakes and the lights flicker and I didn't seem to get any power, I was afraid to drive it and wasn't even sure I'd get enough power. My battery does this weird thing sometimes where it's almost dead in the morning (no lights on and no parasitic draw, I've checked) and if I try a few times to start, with each try it gets better until it starts. So I charged it with a trickle charger and tried again but same problem. After this started it was also giving me a p0035 and p0135. I had it towed to a mechanic and they said something big time busted with the motor and it needs to be replaced. He said he didn't even pull it into the garage, he just did something in the lot.
I'm just looking to get it into good enough shape for carmax to give me more than a hundred bucks. I just decided to see if I could hobble it to another mechanic for a second opinion. It's still doing the same thing, and if I let it idle the engine dies after maybe 10 or 15 seconds, but if I gas it right away it doesn't Rev up fast but eventually does get up there and then it runs mostly ok, albeit noisier, now with a lower pitch noise accompanying the tap. The p0135 and p0035 are gone but now I still see the p0017 along with a p0170. Am I actually screwed or could it be something else? Maybe a bad alternator or battery or spark plug? Something that could have been fouled up by the engine flush?
Hyundai - Sonata :: 2005 - 1st Cylinder Misfire - Runs Rough - CEL Comes On
I have a 2005 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl. and have a misfire problem with the 1st cylinder. I've had it pressure checked and there isn't a problem with the cylinder, such as a ring or warping problem. I've replaced the wires, both boots, both ignition coils and the plugs twice. I was told I need to replace the ignition coil again but I wonder if there is something that is making the coil go bad. I've also replace the throttle position sensor and both O2 sensors. I had the front catalytic converter replaced because it was bogging down and very slow. It still runs rough and the check engine light is on. I was told also that I need to replace the engine speed sensor. I bought the car in Oct. of 2004 and only has 68000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2008 - Vibration When Driving At 40 Km/h
My Hyundai Sonata 2008 vibrates when driving at 40 km/h. Steering wheel doesn't shake, only car vibrates. And this happens regardless of pressing gas pedal or not. Front wheels are balanced(as the car is front wheel drive) yesterday but no success.
View 4 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2002 - 5th Gear Slips / Transmission Is Going Out?
I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata V6 with around 257,000 miles on it.
Recently, it has been slipping out of 5th in automatic mode so I have been driving it in manual mode without utilizing the 5th gear. When I'm in 4th, the RPMs are around 2,200 so not that bad going 60 mph.
The first event was when I was accelerating onto the highway on a bridge going 65 mph and all of a sudden, felt a thud in the front end and the "check engine light" came on. I also noticed that the RPMs were registering way too high (way over 3,000k) so basically it sounded like I was going 65 mph in 3rd gear. I had to drive until the end of the bridge, pulled over and shut off the car. Once I started it, no problems driving in 5th gear for the next 45 minutes.
Error codes were P1790 and P1529.
Added a bit more ATF fluid since it seemed low, the "check engine light" turned itself off. I drove at 65 mph for about 45 minutes and felt the front end dip again as the tranny slipped into the 3rd gear. Again, I had to pull over, shut off the engine and turn it back on again.
Because I don't really have the funds for another car at the moment, I have been driving it in 4th gear with a top speed of around 60 mph. The "check engine light" turned off after the last slip, but I have been receiving so many opinions.
I'm pretty sure the transmission is going out....
Hyundai - Sonata :: 2002 - Intermittent Speedometer Most Often On Longer Trips
The speedometer on my 2002 Hyundai Sonata usually works, until it doesn't. This happens most often on longer trips. The speedometer starts fluctuating between 0 and my current speed and eventually gives up entirely. I've asked several dealers what the problem might be, but they've all said they can't find anything (of course it's always working when I take it in.) When the speedometer is not working, neither is the odometer or the cruise control. What could it be?
View 1 RepliesHyundai - Sonata :: 2002 - Trunk Light On Cluster Won't Turn Off?
My trunk light on the cluster gauge will not turn off. I removed the trunk light bulb so it wouldn't drain the battery but over the span of about a month the battery gets low enough not to start, so I'm assuming its keeping something else on in addition to the light. I only drive about 150 miles a month so it doesn't have much time to recharge even if it is a small draw. I disconnected the sensor in the trunk but the light is still on, The odd thing is that if I apply high G's from breaking or accelerating quickly, the light will turn off till I stop accelerating/decelerating (normal driving does not effect it). I'm thinking its probably a short from an aftermarket remote start/security system that was removed. I do not use the factory alarm so I do not care about the trunk sensor being disabled but I cant seem to figure out where to disconnect it from (pulling the fuse did nothing)and I assume I need to find the trunk/hatch pin wire that it is referring to. Or am I going about this all wrong?
View 19 RepliesHyundai - Elantra :: 2002 - Rough Idle And Misfire When Hot / Intermittent Hesitation When Accelerating
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?