Ignition - Starting - Electrical-wiring - Starters :: 2006 - Delayed Start Intermittently?
Jun 25, 2014
Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
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My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
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I have an 06 F150 XLT and lately the map lights blink when starting and driving. This does not occur every time but it sure is a problem when driving at night. What is causing this and hopefully a minor repair.
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1989 F250, C6
Random starting problems. Starter relay did not fix it.
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
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My daughter's 2004 Saturn Ion3 has had problems starting up for three weeks. Battery was replaced as was the crank shaft sensor. Mechanics cannot make it NOT start so they can't diagnose any more. My daughter goes out in the morning, the car won't start, it just makes a spinning noise, then waits 15 min and sometimes it will start. Sometimes turning the key again right away will cause it to make NO noise at all. What else could be wrong?
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 3.0 L Coupe and I have a problem with the start up. I just bought a brand new battery for my car so I know it's not the battery. Anyway, when I turn the key in the ignition (normally) I cannot get the car to turn on, it makes an electrical screeching sound. However, when I quickly turn the key, the car turns on. I want the car to turn on normally but do not know the specific problem. I replaced the starter with a family member not too long ago, could it be that the starter was not installed correctly?
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I have a 2006 Kia Sedona with about 85k on it. About 2 months ago it began not starting (no engine turn over whatsoever). I took it to the dealer and they could not get the problem to repeat. When I pressed the service manager he told me to "bang on the fuse box" while trying to start it. Oddly, that seems to work. Something about the power relay (I might have the terminology wrong here). Last week my (1 year old) battery died. Another Kia dealership also found nothing wrong with the van but also mentioned the power relay as a possible cause of the period non-starting but didn't think that could damage the battery. Car is yet again, not starting sometimes. Banging on the fuse box as per the first service manager still works but this is not a permanent solution. Don't want to spring for a new power relay (??) since they can't definitively diagnose that.
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We have an 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. It isn't driven very much -- only about 25,000 miles total. Lately it has been having problems when we try to start it. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it needs a few tries. When it fails, we can hear the engine turning over, but don't get to ignition.
We drive this car a couple of times a month. Is it possible this issue is related to the infrequent use?
Could this be something more serious? What do we even ask the mechanic to look at?
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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2006 Toyota tundra starting problem only intermittently, id say about half the time recently it does this. Ill go to crank my truck, turn the key over and it makes a loud CLICK/thud under the hood. Lights go dim, clock shuts off etc. Turn the key off and back on, CLICK. I have to repeat this 3-4 times before starting sometimes. And once or twice the starter would turn over for 3-4 seconds before finally firing up. Ive check the battery and alternator at the local auto zone and a local dealership, both checked out fine. The starter is under the intake manifold. I have checked grounds/connections etc but dont see problem.
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So my Honda Civic has been flashing my check engine light, which is telling my my cylinders are misfiring. I checked the ignition coils by removing them while the car was running and cylinder 2 and 3 I can remove and it doesn't change how the car runs. I put a new ignition coil In and that doesn't work so it isn't the ignition coils, what it could be?
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I have a 2007 e350. I installed a battery isolator and I believe I need to run a wire from the ignition circuit to the exciter post on the isolator. I found the Power Distribution Panel under the hood (drivers side) which has a fuse in slot #7 (60 amp Maxi Fuse) listed as Ignition Switch/Accessory Delay. What is the best way to tap into this?
Also, I have 8 gauge wire which I ran from the isolator to the batteries. I am second guessing this now and wondering if I should go with thicker wire?
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery, engine and aux turned off. Then Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. Then put key in and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in first then connected battery and truck started. Last stop took key out as well as disc batt and engine stayed on this time. repeated steps above several times to get back. Looking for narrowing the problem,possible ignition key cylinder, actuator or possible bad circuit.
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Just got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
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I have a 77 ford truck with a 351 ,the ignition system keeps shorting out, killing spark. If i replace the starter solenoid, it works for a while, then goes out again. I have replaced 4 solenoids this month. What could be shorting the solenoid out? Had the truck for 8 yrs. now, never had a problem with it till now. It has a mallory dist. it was in when i bought it.
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I just replaced my starter solenoid and I'm getting nothing. When 12 volts are applied directly from the battery to the solenoid, the engine wants to turn (granted my batteries are weak) however when I turn the key to start, after waiting for the "wait to start" light to go off and hearing the glow plug click, I turn the key and I get absolutely nothing. No click, nothing. Is there a possibility my ignition is bad?
Would the "wait to start" and glow plug keep working if this were true? Electrical is not exactly my forte'. Before I replaced the solenoid, the bad one had a broken post but the truck would still start most of the time, and when it wouldn't I just connected the two large posts on the solenoid with channel locks or pliers or whatever was handy. I put the new one in exactly the same way the old one came out. I only undid one bolt and set of wires at a time so I wouldn't screw the order up, so I'm at a loss.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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