Impala - Chevrolet - Noises :: 2010 - Buzzing From Left Front End While Traveling
May 18, 2016
Girl next door has a 2010 Chevy Impala w/31k mi. Has a buzzing noise from LF while traveling. This is not a clunking CV joint, so don't tell me that. Not a wheel bearing, okay.
This occurs while traveling straight at 20 and up. I jacked LF up. Noise very noticeable on left while in forward gear, but not reverse. Noise more audible in cabin than outside. In neutral, spun wheel by hand, no noise. Compared right side, same tests, no noise.
New brakes last year. Brakes look real good as do rotors. Consulted three mechanics, none have ever heard of this before.
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I have a 2003 Honda Element with 124,000 miles and it runs like a gem. I purchased it at 99,000! It has slowly developed a dull thunking sound in the left rear (seems to be left rear). I hear this sound when traveling at lower speeds on bumpy surfaces. I don't hear the sound at highway speeds nor do I hear it when my brother (who is a mechanic) stand on the back bumper and jumps up and down really hard after removing everything from the inside of the car. We have had it up on the lift to look at everything underneath and there is nothing thunky when wiggled.
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For the first time today, the passenger front tire resisted being turned. It was hard to turn. What might the problem be?
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Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
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As of late I am hearing a sound coming from the front end of my 2003 impala. It doesn't occur all the time but sounds the same each time. The sound has the sound of what a bolt that is loose hitting against a piece of steel. At first I only heard it when I excelerate from a stop. It was a quick sound and didn't always happen. Then yesterday I drove over a pair of rough train tracks and now itore often. However it continues to be a sound that does mot happen all the time.
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2000 Venture short wheelbase 122k miles. Original owner from brand new. Has had fuel pump replaced at 40K, intake manifold replaced and full trans (torque converter inclusive) flush, plugs and wires at 75K. (2005) All fluids checked regularly.
Recent problem. Noticed a "grinding/buzzing" sound when traveling above 25 mph. Sound is commensurate with veh speed (not engine speed). If I turn the wheel ever so slightly to the right, the sound "deepens"/gets louder), and I can feel the buzzing in the steering wheel. When I release from turning right, or turn left, the buzzing greatly decreases (though I still hear it), and I can no longer feel it in the steering wheel. I only feel it when I turn the wheel to the right, even just a few degrees.
My thoughts on the culprit (in no particular order): Wheel bearing, Transaxle/final drive (differential). ???????
Wheel bearings: No work done on front wheels/hubs. I did rotors and brake pads in April 2009 (115K). Visual inspection of all of the under car and front end. Nothing appeared out of the ordinary.
Transaxle/Diffierential: Who knows? I have had other vehicles with a normal differential/rear end, that had a bad bearing and I could usually tell which side, just by driving/turning Usually it was an outer bearing (wheel), not an axle bearing (diff).
Observations:
1..Periodically over the last 2-3 years or so, I have had to add about a 8-12 oz of coolant to the overflow every 8 mos or so. I don't know where it goes. I presume it is evaporating somewhere or VERY slowly leaking. Nothing external that can be visually noticed.
2.. Last week I checked the trans fluid. Was off the stick. Had to add 3 qts Dexron VI to bring it to full mark on stick. First two qts. barely registered on the stick. Prior to that last check was at 118k (5 k ago) and June of 2009. My written notes at the time mention "Normal. Didn't smell or look burnt, and no particulate matter in the fluid". Has been a week and the fluid level is still holding fine. Where did the 3 quarts go ???
3.. Opened radiator cap. No sludge or "strawberry milkshake" evidence of trans fluid. Looks fairly clear and orange. About what I would expect for a veh of this age and mileage. All lines to and from trans and radiator look ok. No evidence of leaking ANYWHERE.
4.. Runs an normal temps throughout the year
5.. Shifts fine with no slipping, clunking, grinding (during shifting).
6.. Overall vehicle runs, shifts, handles, and stops well.
7.. Every few weeks the ABS light comes on and then goes out after the next start.
If it's a wheel bearing (and I am leaning that way) How can I determine which side I need to replace? If I turn right, I "load" the left one. Noise gets louder. If I turn left, I "load" the right one. Given the above symptoms should I presume the left one?
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I have a 2003 chevy impala ls, now I felt wobbling in the front more on the right a few weeks ago and it started getting worse especially when I would brake, I had it looked at by a mechanic who shook,twirled, yanked and examined my wheels and tires, and told me it just looked like I needed a new tire up there.So I went bought 2 new tires and had them out on. When they did it they took the rim from the right and rotated it to the left side. I drove off thinking the wobble was gone , but I still feel it. Now it feels like it's on the left side not as bad but you can still feel it constantly........ So I guess my question would be is the problem the rim itself then?
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Back in December i purchased a 2003 Impala LS. It has about 103,000 miles on it now. Overall the car runs and drives great. However on very rare occasions I have noticed if I have to slam on the brakes or really break hard I hear a grinding sound. Now I have only heard it maybe 3 times in the time since buying the car and never hear anything under normal braking. I had the brakes checked and was told they didn't see anything wrong, but what might cause this grinding sound I have heard a few times?
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I'm currently using a 2010 Impala as a loaner. I had bought a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe from a dealer and 5 days later the engine blew. I've been using loaners from them for over a month until the engine is replaced or I decide on a different car. They have a junkyard engine on the floor, but they only have one mechanic so things don't get done on time. This Impala has 107K.
I did the carfax thing and it was a rental for the first 2 years, then owned privately. Occasionally the ABS light and t/c light come on but I'm convinced it's a chafed wire because it seems to only come on when I turn the steering wheel a certain way. They had checked the codes and came up with nothing 'wrong', which makes sense to me... it seems like either a crappy connection or chafing or something. This will need to be addressed and fixed before I sign anything but....
My dilemma right now is this: The roads are currently snow packed. If I punch the gas pedal from a dead stop there is sometimes a slight hesitation and a whirring sound, oddly enough it sounds a lot like a windshield washer pump. The car runs flawlessly otherwise. I asked a friend who also owns a 2010 Impala and he says he's never heard such a noise. I don't see how anyone could miss it. If I disable the t/c, there is no noise.
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Shop Manual says you need to remove the oil pan as part of the front cover gasket repair. Is that really true? Removing the oil pan on this car is a very complicated procedure. Want to make sure it's abosolutely necessary before continuing.
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I have a 2003 Impala. Over the past couple of months I have had an occurance every so often, very random with my front driver side brake. In both rain and dry conditions, braking hard and just slowing to break I will hear what sounds like grinding when I brake, like you do when the pads are gone. Well, I have had the car in and the pads and rotor are fine, the place I took it to even test drove it and tried but couldn't get the sound. I posted here a while back on this issue and the view was that it might be the ABS, but when this occurs the ABS light doesn't come on and the sound is just coming from the driver side front. What my next move should be?
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When turning a corner at low speed (left or right) while riding the brake, if the suspension bounces (e.g., crossing uneven manhole cover) the left front brake pulses for .5-2 seconds. The pulse is felt in the brake pedal. A grunt noise comes from the suspension. Cannot reproduce over parking lot speed bumps.
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My 20th just recently started making clunking noises around the front left wheel area. It sounds like when I let off the gas it sounds like something is shifting forward... I don't think it is the engine mounts I'm wondering if its something with the suspension. The suspension is the stock 20th suspension.
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My 79 year old father put fuel additive in his 2010 Chevy Impala. Don't ask me how much, or for how long... The Check Engine light came on. I never got a clear answer from him on what his mechanic said about it. Five to Ten fill ups later the Check Engine light went out on its own. Engine seems fine. Could this have caused damage to the engine or emissions controls? Would a computer diagnostic from a mechanic pinpoint any problems? Would you recommend a computer diagnostic be performed?
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Experienced a buzzing noise from left rear wheel well. I have noticed it a couple of times after the car has been parked in the garage and sitting for awhile. The dealer said it is normal and the auto suspension readjusting. However, it will continue for a long time but will turn off if I start it up. I am concerned this normal leveling will burn out the motor in do time. We have a 2010 premium.
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My brother and I both drive Chevy S10 ZR2s, 2001 and 1998 respectively, and they both have the same problem(s). Initially, the first minute after starting, the trucks will backfire and hesitate, which is most apparent when traveling up hill because if the engine hesitates when traveling up hill, we don't go anywhere. However, after this initial minute, the truck perform just fine, mostly.
The only time that they will not perform well after this initial minute is if we go to pass someone on the highway and need to accelerate harder to do so. If we do this, the same symptoms described earlier return, but they will not go away unless the trucks are shut off and allowed to "rest" for a few minutes. A similar problem was described in last week's show, but that was for a carbureted S10 and I'm pretty sure that ours are EFI.
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I bout a 2010 AWD LS460 in July and immediately noticed noises coming from the rear and front. The rear was a loud thud going over certain bumps and the front is making rattling noises. I lowered the windows and went down a rather bumpy block and the car sound like the bottom is falling out. I took it to the dealer and they had it for 2 and 1/2 weeks waiting on the rear air shocks to come in. They gave it back to me and did not address the front. Now the service manager is going away for two weeks and wants me to come back if I still feel the need to have the from done. The master tech stated the front left suspension needs replacing. I feel they are trying to drag this out so they dont have to pay for the repairs. The car has 80K and was bought from Bay Ridge Lexus and is not under CPO.
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2002 XLT 3.0L 4X4
Making a grinding sound when traveling straight or turning left. Any turn to the right (even the camber of the passing lane) and there is no grinding sound so I figured it was the drivers side wheel bearing. Replaced it yesterday.... symptoms are still there.
Tight left/right turns don't result in the popping/snapping of a bad CV joint so I don't think that's it.
I don't think it's transmission related since shifting is good and the grinding is not throttle related. Besides, turning shouldn't have an effect on the sound if it was something in the transmission, right?
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I have a 2007 Camry le 4 cylinder. When under a load on the highway there is an occasional buzzing that occurs when accelerating (sounds like a piece of metal vibrating at a high pitch). It only happens under about 3000 RPMs and the noise doesn't occur any other time (idle, reving the engine while idle, slow speeds, etc.). Today I got it up on a lift and checked all of the heat shields under the hood and around the exhaust under the car. Nothing seemed loose. I had two mechanics look at it and one thinks that the exhaust flex pipe is the culprit, while the other insists that this is a known issue with the resonator (said a small piece may have broken off of a baffle inside and is vibrating). Are either of these components well known to cause this type of issue? I'd rather not replace both if one is frequently the cause.
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For a little over a month now, the front left turn signal has gone out at least once a week. I have been continuing to buy new bulbs for it, and it would run for a few days, then quit on me again. Just today, it happened again, I replaced the bulb, but this time it still isn't working. Ive tried clearing some of the crud off of the inside of the socket, but nothing seems to be working, and now im down a turn signal.
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Left headlight 2000 S-10 damaged in accident. The connectors to the low and high beam bulbs survived and they and the wires back to the fuse box look fine. Upon plugging in a new left assembly, the right side low and high no longer works. The relay was changed and the left assembly unplugged and back to the same point where every light on the vehicle front and back are working except the left low and high. The only things not hooked up are the left fender horn and the window washer motor. Those were unplugged to be able to get to the left light wires to check them out. Is it ok to use a test light with the negative battery on one wire and the other tried with all 4 sockets under the headlight relay to see if the volts are there to be sent to the left light?
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