Jeep - Cherokee :: Whistle Sound On Acceleration And Deceleration When Transmission Is In Gear And Moving
Jan 2, 2012
My wife and I just bought a pre-owned 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 60,000 miles that just started to make a whistle sound on initial acceleration and deceleration when the engine is warm and the transmission is in gear and moving. The sound does not happen with a cold engine, when the transmission is in park, or neutral. A local mechanic checked it for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. He thought it may be a dirty throttle body, so I cleaned that out really well, but the whistle didn't go away (it did make the jeep run a lot smoother!). It's difficult to pinpoint the noise since it only happens when the vehicle is actually moving.
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Dashboard lights out, on 1999 jeep cherokee. seem string because transmission gear level lights is also out. on the floor.
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I have a 1995 jeep Cherokee country that has 130k miles. I have notice that when I shift from park to drive, park to reverse, drive to reverse or vice versa It makes this thud noise after placing it in gear. Is this a sign that the transmission is about to go out ? What action should I take? By the way its a automatic transmission
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For three years now my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo will whistle. Usually when the engine is cold. When the vehicle is idling in the driveway or at stoplights, whenever I take my foot off the accelerator it will whistle too. The only time it won't whistle is when the gas pedal is being pressed. I've had it to a number of different shops to be serviced but once the car is inside or the engine is warmed it will never whistle for the mechanic looking at the vehicle. I've been told that it could be related to the IAC motor.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
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I have always taken car to dealership for service/repairs. Recently left car at dealer service for just the above issue. They said they could not duplicate the sound. Perhaps they didn't drive long enough..it hadn't 'warmed up'? Everyone who rides with me hears it. It is very very annoying. What could this be?
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I have a whistle sound mostly upon decel when the engine was cold. I have the APR down pipe installed. Today it's doing it all the time even when warm. I took the car to the dealer and they said it was prolly an exhaust leak. I took the car to my friends shop and we put the car up on the lift and listened from underneath. It sounded like the turbo was echoing in the down pipe. Sometimes when it's cold it can be very loud. So my question is if this is normal with the APR down pipe or with this turbo or is this a sign that I have a turbo failure coming?
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1990 Cherokee 4 L str 6 cyl
after shutting my jeep down I ve heard liquid moving. I decided to find the source. it turns out that I was hearing the oil draining back into the pan.
I was under the jeep with my ear next to the pan, no doubt of source.
this lasted about 15- 30 seconds before stopping. the front of the jeep was raised about 6", as I had parked it that way.is this concerning?
I was recently going to change my valve/rocker arm cover gasket, but decided to wait because it did not seem to be leaking and I did not want to use the inexpensive cork fel pro gasket that I had bought, I decided to wait until I could afford the more expensive gasket.
I did notice thru my oil fill cap that there is a lot of crud under the cover and I am concerned that my oil return drains are partially clogged.how can I clean these drains when I do change the gasket? since it has been strongly recommended here that I do not disturb the crud I m not sure how I should approach this. could vaccuming the loose crud with a shop vac be okay?
ps. dropping the oil pan is not an option right now because of the extensive labor involved on this model and the expense of all the new seals and gaskets required. I ve bought 200 bucks worth of parts and fluids this month and it will be awhile before I can afford more.
right now I have brake shoes, tranny filter and fluid, above gasket, oil and oil and fuel filters waiting on me to work on, and other non mechanical things.
to summarize my questions...
1) does noisy oil drainage concern you?2)how can I clean oil drains?
a. can I pour kerosene thru to clean oil drains, and to flush oil pan, which I can t drop right now?
b. can I shop vac under the valve cover?
c. should I add sea foam to oil for a bit before changing?
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My 2011 ES350 has 49k miles on it (just got it last week).
I just noticed that when moving slowly (with and without accelerating) I can hear a slight whistle sound that resembles a bird chirp coming from what I think is a wheel.
My dad can't hear the sound (I'm thinking the frequency is too high for his ears) but it is definitely there and I can hear it clearly.
The sound comes and goes but something is not right. Wonder what it is?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.
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Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
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When cranking, i have to give it gas and rev it til it smooths out. Eventually it will run smoothly. When i throw it in gear, it wants to sputter and die out. If I put in D, i have to give it gas or it dies, but I can only barely touch the gas or it dies out. There is a vacuum leak in brake booster, but ive been told the headgasket could be blown.I want to know if the head gasket could be a problem and if its worth replacing the booster.
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I thought my transmission was not going into 2 gear, but it is. But it ain't going into 1st gear. Just found out today.
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Transmission not shifting into overdrive, running high on RPM's, BUT not all the time. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Could it be an electrical Module that is causing the transmission not to shift into high gear? Had the transmission checked out several times without going inside it and they say it is fine???
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My jeep just got it back and the transmission ain't slipping in drive but it's not shifting. I can drive it in drive but does not shift? Also I had the piston rings all done and head got it back like that and i am mad because wen i took it to him to have it fixed the transmission was working fine. Then i took it back to him and he said he did not touch the transmission.
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I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee, 2wd, 4 cylinder, manual transmission, I have had some work done on it. Recently, I had the clutch redone, then I had a tune-up and the motor mounts replaced.
After the motor mounts were done, I was unable to get the vehicle into gear. My mechanic adjusted the clutch pedal and it was running as long as I did not put it into reverse. I had driven it about 3 miles from my house, parked it.
Came out to start it a couple of hours later and it would not turn over. It wanted to start but no engagement. I had to have it towed to my house where my mechanic could check it out.
Since that time, we have determined that it is not the fuel pump, we changed out the fuel injectors, replaced the coil, replaced the crankshaft sensor and it is still doing the same thing. Have gone through all the suggested remedies.
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My manual transmission 1995 Jeep Cherokee today refused to go into any gear after I had stopped for a light. After pushing it to the side of the road I was about to call AAA when it went into gear and worked perfectly thereafter. This happened once before about a month ago. What could be the problem and how likely am I to get stuck for good?
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Just got a 1996 Jeep cherokee with right hand drive, 73,000 miles. Drove it less than 2500 miles when had problems with it shifting out of first gear. Would rev up the rpms to 3500 to 4500 and then a large jolt before going into next gear. Took to transmission specialist who was able to get it to act up., Now he tells me that the transmission is an import??? (was manufactured here in states and sent to Japan) Can't get the codes on the machine to tell him what is wrong with the tranny., says the codes say it is ok. Now what do I do. I need this car as I am a mail carrier and it was bought for that purpose.
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4. I lifted it with a Rubicon Express 3.5" lift and had some drive line vibrations. So, I decided to purchase a slip yoke eliminator and use a rebuilt front drive shaft for the rear. I also starting having steering issues. The pump was leaking and the gear box was shot. Other than it leaking PS fluid all of the time, it wasn't a huge issue and was steering perfectly fine. I had a friend install the SYE, new steering pump and gear box in the same day.
When I drove away, there was a slight rumble from the rebuilt drive shaft and my steering was all screwed up. I could barely turn into a parking space. U-turns were completely out of the question. I assumed the issue was that the new gear box was off center and have been waiting for my friend to have the time to redo the job.
In the mean time, I decided to investigate the rumbling drive shaft on my own. So I removed the front driveshaft and swapped it with the rear. Problem solved! The rumble is gone! I am going to rebuild a different drive shaft for the rear and in the meantime, drive without a front driveshaft. Interestingly, my steering issue has completely disappeared. I can now do tight u-turns and park without a single issue. What the heck is causing the issue?
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I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. It has 108.5K miles on it. This past winter I had to have the battery replaced and the throttle serviced, invloving a tow in the depths of the polar vortex. Now in the rear right wheel I hear a clanking sound when I go over a pot hole or bump. Pot holes are hard to avoid after the winter we had.
Speed bumps are no problem. I know it is only the right rear tire because I have tested the other wheels going over pot holes, they do not make any noise. The noise happens if I am at speed or rolling over bump at a light or in a parking lot. It is due for an inspection at the end of this month and I would like to make a suggestion to the mechanic when I take it in.
My questions are: What is making the noise? Is it worth it to keep the car after I fix it or should I start looking for another? If I do look for another car what should I consider? I have two sons and we are outdoors people and would need something similar in ruggedness. Also the AC has not worked for over a year.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. It drives great but there is a problem with the blinkers. They only work about 15% of the time. Most of the time when I try to use my signal, nothing happens. They don't light up, they don't make the blinker sound, and they aren't flashing. Now, the hazard lights always work and I can sometimes get the blinkers to come back on by adjusting the steering wheel column. Weird right?
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