Jeep - Electrical-wiring - Patriot :: Turn Signal Beeps At Strange Intervals
May 14, 2015
My wife drives a 2013 jeep patriot with less than 20k miles on it. The turn signals began behaving eccentrically (beeps at strange intervals, and the right turn signal flashing twice as fast most of the time). We figured out that the right rear brake/turn light was out, so I replaced the bulb. That solved the problems, but on the way I noticed that the widget that the bulb plugs into looks just scorched (see pics). I don't have enough experience with these vehicles to know if this is normal, or if this means more trouble to come.
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I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
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Long story short, my truck's front turn signals and rear turn signals/tail lights won't work. I am thinking that the relay is burnt. Whenever I look in the manual I can't seem to find the location for this relay. Is is built into the flasher?
Also, I am just assuming because the rear turn signals and tail lights are the same bulb that fixing this should clear up both problems. Am I right in thinking that?
I have already checked all of the fuses. Also, the Hazards don't work either.
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Swapping the 08 mirrors onto older trucks. Which wire I should splice into in the door sill for the right turn signals?
I have an 08, with the tow mirrors/turn signals integrated. On the passenger side, the turn signal does not work. I'm not getting power at the plug.
I traced the wire colors from the headlight and taillight turn lamps and tried splicing into the same colored wires under the passenger door sill. This didn't work (I did get it to work on park lamps though, just not the turn signal). I can't find wiring diagrams.
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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I just bought an 05 F250 XLT. I noticed tonight that the rear turn signals and brake lights dont work.
the front turn signals work fine, although they flash fast. I know that usually means a light on its way out. neither taillight flashes though, which puzzles me.
my second issue is that, of the 3 brake lights, only the high mounted light illuminates when I hit the brakes.
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2003 SCrew, 5.4, auto, 4x4.... Yesterday my left turn signal started flashing fast; checked and the front was not flashing. Picked up a new bulb, changed it, didn't fix anything.
I've tried:
-tilt wheel up/down in all settings-no change
-checked the wiring at the top of the column; still good and solid.
-swapped the bulbs left to right and vice versa-no change.
-swapped the sockets left to right and vice versa-no change.
Other info:
-the left front is the only one not flashing with hazards on.
-all original equipment, except I removed the stock side mirrors (w/signal) and installed manual trailer towing mirrors, but that was 2 or 3 years ago.
-the dash indicator light for left turn (arrow) does not come on at all.
-last trailer tow was over a month ago and all was good.
I ran out of daylight last night and at work now so I would like know which Fuse, Flasher, Relay, etc., I should check/replace and where to find them on the truck; under the hood (1st or 2nd stack of the fuse blocks); under the dash above the pedals; steering column???
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1994 Econoline E350. All the other lights work but on the front right the turn signal light flashes but the Hazard lite will not flash. I check for power at the wire at the light and there is none.
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My car is a 1998 Honda Civic. The left turn signal blinks at double speed when the headlights are off. When the headlights are on, it blinks at half speed. Should I replace the left-sided bulbs? Or the turn signal relay? Or something else? None of the bulbs are out in the front or rear.
One other fact: If the hazards are on with headlight OFF everything blinks in synchrony. If the hazards are on with the headlight ON the front blinkers flash alternating (left-right-left etc).
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I have a unique problem with my newly acquired 71 F250. The left brake does illuminate when the brake is pressed but when the right turn signal if activated the left brake light does come on. The left flasher light also does not work. All other rear ligh function are normal. I am assuming I have a short or a wiring issue just wanted to know if there was any common item that might be know about this topic. The bulbs are all new. The reverse lights do not work either but pretty for sure its unrelated.
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I just bought an 05 F250 XLT. I noticed tonight that the rear turn signals and brake lights don't work.
The front turn signals work fine, although they flash fast. I know that usually means a light on its way out. neither taillight flashes though, which puzzles me.
My second issue is that, of the 3 brake lights, only the high mounted light illuminates when I hit the brakes.
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85 f150. My driver side brake light and turn signal in the back quit working. The tail light works tho which is a different filament. The bulb is good and I changed the flasher relay...the circle thing in the fuse panel. Everything else works just fine. looking for a starting point.
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I am working on friends 2011 Ford F450 Diesel He has lost Brake Lights and Turn Signal/Hazards.
Turn signals work in front of truck. Running lights are working fine.
Same goes when trailer is connected on truck. What could be the problem.
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Turn signals quit working on my 2006 E-150. Swapped out the relay under the dash and it did nothing. Also noticed the brake lights aren't working. The headlights and taillight a are working. I pulled the fuses under dash for the lights and they tested ok. I did notice the flasher relay was making clicking sounds intermittently even when not touching anything.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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I have no left rear signal or brake lights. The right side works fine and both left/right tail lights work fine, just no left brake or signal. I checked for broken wires and can not find anything. 1992 Ford E50 7.5L.
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I have a need for a 12-volt signal to indicate the engine is in start or run mode. I would like to pull this from the engine compartment but I'm not sure what would be the best or easiest way to do this. The 12-volt signal is not used to power anything so it will draw very little current. I have a 94 F150.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with a kind of serious problem. My wipers dont always work. Sometimes they work fine, sometimes they work fine to start with and then quit without warning, other times the only way to get them to turn on is to turn them on high and then go to the speed that I want to use. It has the intermittent option but I am not yet convinced that that has anything to do with my problem. They will quit working some of the time while using the delay but they also quit on low sometimes. I have been through and checked all of the plugs, and even went as far as to grease them up so I know they are making good connections. I'm at a loss, I would think if it were the motor or the switch it would just go out all together. And if it were a broken wire, wouldn't it come on and go off if I hit a bump in the road? They shut off on smooth roads so bumpy or smooth does not matter.
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The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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A little over four months ago, I had a flat tire replaced on my 2008 Jeep Patriot. On the way I home I noticed a vibration around 35-40 mph. There was also an occasional "thunk" from somewhere underneath the vehicle. I took it back to the tire store 2-3 days later, and they rebalanced the tires. No luck. Took it back again again a couple of weeks later, and they could not find the problem. They recommended I take it to a dealer. It was a month or so before I could get it in to the dealer, and they replaced some worn parts in the drive train. Still the vibration.
Took it back to the dealer, by now about 4 months after the tire was replaced, and after having it in the shop for two days, they finally noticed that the replacement tire was the wrong size -- didn't match the mfr specs and (probably more importantly) didn't match the other three tires. They replaced all four tires, which were now worn and worn unevenly. The replaced the rear toe adjusters and one lower control arm. And aligned it, of course. Total bill for all the work done by the dealer, including the original work and the new tires.
Originally, the dealer blamed the worn toe adjusters and lower control arm on the wrong-sized tire, but once I started asking them for information to use against the tire dealer, they crawfished and said the only thing that the tire dealer should be responsible for was the tires and alignment. I took the vehicle and the old tires back to the tire dealer and asked them to refund what I paid for the replacement tire, pay me a prorated portion of the replacement for the other three tires, and pay for the alignment. (Which I thought was very reasonable.) They haven't given me an answer yet, but the manager claims that having one wrong-sized tire would not affect the other tires, that the uneven wear on those tires was caused by the worn parts that the dealer replaced (toe adjusters and lower control arm).
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