I have a '96 jeep grand charokee Laredo with what I've been told is a bad differential. The bearings and gears are all shot, but can't afford to get a new one. I have taken off the front driveshaft to try and make it drivable again, but it is still making the grinding noise it was before. As well as catching real bad. Just wondering if I need to bother with it, or even attempt anything further.
View 10 RepliesRecent noticed a whirling noise coming from the front of the car. Pitch increased with velocity, but not RPMs. A mechanic diagnosed it as a worn front differential. I have a long highway trip coming up and want to know if this will stress it to its breaking point and I'll be stranded. Also, what should it cost to repair. This mechanic said an overall is $1K. 267K miles on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.8L V8 engine. Never had a work done on the front differential.
View 7 RepliesI have been hauling a lot of garbage with my 96 ranger this last week. The differential has been making a little more than usual noise like growling, but it has always been smooth, now all of a sudden it shakes like a tire out of balance up to about 55 then it is like a switch is thrown and everything quiets down and the shaking goes away, until i get around 55. I haven't climbed under the truck yet just checked the tires and grabbed the drive line they are all ok,i don't see any leaks so it is a head scratcher. Hopefully it will be something easy, but it hardly ever is.
View 7 RepliesI bought this van (1995 chevy van 20) last year and the rear end made some sounds but not as bad as its now.
So, after buying it I decided to open up the rear end and inspect for any damage to suggest it needs repairs. No signs of metal chips, nicks, or any wear on the bearings and gears. After a while of driving it I decided to remove the carriage and pinion from the rear end to give it a close inspection. After doing this and finding no clear sign of war or damage, i decided to replace the carriage barrings to see if that made a difference. After placing the new bearings back on the carriage, pinion back into the rear differential, and trying to do it all by myself, i lost the marks i had placed on the carriage bolts and clamps since I had little time to get it back together.
After that I had no other choice but to place the clamps bolts where i could estimate they belong. I was done, then drove it and some of the noise went away but a grinding sound on decelerating emerged. Well, now that sound is gotten worst and its more like a grinding sound. I can assume that not placing back the bolts and carriage clamps back changed the position of the carriage relative to where it was, but am not 100% sure. how can I correct the positioning of the carriage? if that is not the issue what test can i perform to find the culprit?
I have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
View 14 RepliesWell i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
I recently replaced the brake pads on my 1996 Subaru Legacy. I can hear a grinding noise when I stop. I checked the brake pads again but could not see anything.
View 1 RepliesGrinding noise in front end, replaced caliper, bearing, brakes and cv joint...
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
Have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe (305) Engine having engine cranking problems. It makes a slight grinding noise when normally starting. But sometimes it the noise is loud and seems to lock or seize during cranking. I tried shimming it without success, the gear even stuck in the flywheel. I had the starter rebuilt when the bendix stopped engaging the flywheel. I bought this PU second hand and the flywheel cover had been removed as if this truck has had existing starter problems. Also the flywheel teeth look ok.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
I have a 96 outback which all of a sudden has no awd. The rear differential looks as though it has leaked some. I don't know if it has a bad axle, or if this loss of fluid is the culprit..... Where to start?
View 4 Repliesi have a 96 ranger 2wd with a 2.3l engine and a 5 spd manual. everything works except the rear diff whines a little under load. putting new bearings in doesn't look to difficult that's what i will plan on doing but first i need to take the cover off and need to know what fluid to put in?
View 9 RepliesWhen I make sharp turns forward left or right and when I back up and turn left or right my car feels wobbly/grinding. My mechanic says he thinks it "may" be the rear differential needing servicing. I have 135,000 miles. Does that sound right? There is no noise associated with this sensation.
View 19 RepliesI have some pretty bad grinding/growling in the front of my 2005 Explorer XLT 4-door. It is ABSOLUTELY NOT a wheel bearing. The noise seems to be coming from the front left wheel, and you can feel it when turning the hub by hand. I've changed that hub twice now (took a chance that the first one was defective), but neither made any difference. Both were torqued to 184 FtLbs per spec.
I took the outboard end of the left front cv shaft out of the hub and turned it by hand, and something at the inboard end felt crunchy. So then I pulled the shaft out and checked it over, and both sets of splines and CV joints are good. Axle shaft bearing in the differential looks good too---rolls well and no visible damage to the rollers. I'm thinking that it's got to be something in the front differential like a carrier bearing. The odd thing is that when I drove it with my Chassis Ear tool hooked up underneath, the noise was picked up at the left front knuckle, with nothing really audible from three different points on the differential case. I'm stumped on this.
Is there any safe way to drive the vehicle with the front CV shafts pulled? I'd like to isolate the front diff to be sure it's the source of the noise.
The noise does quiet way down in right turns, but the FR hub bearing was pretty quiet with the Chassis Ear hooked up. The noise starts at 20mph and dissipates above 45mph. Not like what the bad bearings on my Escape did...those just kept getting louder.
Are these Explorers known for front diff weaknesses? How can I find out what gear ratio I have, in case I decide to replace the whole unit (a used one is half the price or less than the rebuild quote I was given by a local shop).
I have had no problems out of my jeep except my check engine light came on and it was a bad 02 Sensor and I was told I didn't need to replace it. Well I was driving down the highway and all of a sudden my jeep died. The radio cut off my air and I put it in neutral and I tried to start it and it would not crank. I coasted in a drive way and it cranked and them died. Now it acts like it wants to start but it wont. Replaced the fuel filter. I am getting fuel to the fuel rail. It will not start with starter fluid. I took the crank sensor off and it replaced it and it still wouldn't crank. My fuel pump makes a whinning sound. My lights come on..My windshield wipers won't. My radio doesn't work and the inside lights well I couldn't get them to go off before I before my vehicle died on me, about 3 weeks before I just took the bulbs out. Would the 02 sensor make it not start?
View 14 RepliesJust bought a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 Auto trans. The other morning my jeep wouldn't start. Power everything works, lights work, back up lights work. Starter had been sluggish so I had it tested. Tested fine. Hook the starter back up and when I attach battery it turns over and runs constantly.
I removed the ignition wire from the starter solenoid and hooked it back up and the same thing happened. So I deduced the starter solenoid was stuck. Bought a new starter and replaced my old. Old starter was tested at autozone and it worked properly there (didn't run without ignition).
I just bought the new starter anyway. Hook up battery and same thing happens--starter turns over. How would just the cable from the battery be able to turn the starter over if it is all good?
I have a 96 grand Cherokee Laredo, and the other day it just wouldn't start. The jeep will not turn over, so i started checking some things out and determined that it was not getting a spark. Since i replaced the distributor cap recently i figured it had to be the ignition coil, so i replaced that. Still no go, i tested to see if the ignition coil was getting a spark by using an ohm meter, and nothing.
So something is preventing the spark even getting that far. I do not know much about vehicles, and i have to think it is something in the electrical system (like a chip or something),possibly security system, or NSS.
I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee and am having a problem my mechanic can't figure out. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, heat or time of day has no influence. It even dies while I am driving. While driving it will die and start again over and over. Sometimes it runs fine with no problems. Have had this problem for 1 1/2 years now. Have relpaced rotor, dist cap, pick up coil, tune up, computer sensor, fuel filter. So far nothing has worked.
View 6 RepliesI am having a problem with my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. When I stop at a light and I am in drive, it wants to stall. If I am in park or neutral - no problem.
View 3 Replies