Jeep - Wrangler :: 2006 - Losing Power While Driving In Incline
Apr 17, 2013
I have a 2006 Rubicon Wrangler 4.0 (automatic) with 15K miles, excellent cond. When I drive up to the mountains my Jeep loses power to the point I have the gas pedal pushed to the floor, whereas I can jump out of the jeep and run along side of it. When I step on the gas on the freeway going at high speed it dogs down. It runs fine driving around town. I never had this problem before. I don't think its a transmission problem because I have no engine light coming on. I just checked the Catalytic Converter and that's ok. I'm lost, I have no clue what it can be.
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Jeep runs fine for days and then it will have a bad day. Loses power for a minute or two and then revs back up. If you stay on the gas it acts like it wants to stall something makes a loud banging noise under the jeep and then it takes off only to do the same thing in 2nd gear 3rd gear etc. Would o2 sensors try to shut it down? Throttle position sensor?
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I have a 2004 Jeep Liberty with over 130,000K. I live at 9K feet in elevation in the mountains of Colorado. While driving to Maryland last fall, my Jeep starting periodically (every couple of days; up to 2 times a day) going thru a 'sluggish' phase, typically around 40miles per hour while excelerating, that it loses power & sort of acts like it has bad gas (starts hesitating). I added several bottles of top of the line Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank, as well as the directly into the carbuerator to clean out the system, and used high-octane fuel in numerous tanks while driving from Maryland to Texas. Nothing really made a difference. Had all 4 Oxygen Sensors changed. Problem continued driving thru Dallas, and check engine light came on once, but then went off before I arrived in Colorado Springs. The dealer in Colorado Springs said they were not able to determine problem without the light on. Since then, the jeep does fine at high altitude where I live, but continues to have sluggish problem around same exceleration speed of approx. 40mph at lower elevation only. Getting ready to make another long road trip, and concerned about lack of power when I might need it and/ or car trouble while on the road.
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6. I am experiencing an issue of losing power as I travel up an incline and it doesn't matter how much I depress the gas pedal. The codes that I am receiving are P0101, P0174, and P0171. After reviewing the codes and doing some research I'm thinking it is either the mass air flow sensor or the fuel pump, which can tend to fail in vehicles 10 yrs or older depending on vehicle mate Nance (i.e. constantly running the tank down to almost empty).
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My daughter and I are driving from Winston Salem, nc to Birmingham, al about 400 miles. We re driving in an automatic 2008 jeep wrangler. Last night we were outside Atlanta when the car started shaking. For a moment we thought we had a flat but the car was not shaking that badly and I was able to maintain steering control when driving. The shaking stopped spontaneously after about five minutes. We stopped later to look at the tires and they looked fully inflated and overall in good condition. Our questions are what could have caused it and is it safe for us to continue our drive the rest of the way to Birmingham ?
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I have a 2001 Jeep Wranger (4cl) automatic that has hated highways. When i drive on the highway, after about 4 hrs, my jeep decides to slip into neutral. So i initially have to hit the gas pedal to make it down shift and then it seems okay but of course after about an hour it does the same thing. Hence a long ride becomes much longer. I usually pull off and let it the engine cool down and that seems to work and i can resume the highway once again. I have had the transmission looked at and a transmission flush done. I have been told that i do not need a transmission but the mechanic has no idea why this occurs.
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I still drive the '88 Wrangler I bought in Oct '87. She has 171,000 miles. Recently I had a rebuilt motor,transmission, etc... installed. I had the existing carb rebuilt. This summer, while driving at any speed, the tach would drop to zero and the whole car would lurch. Sometimes so violently my seatbelt would lock up. After a couple miles of lurching it would backfire several times. This is very scary.
Here's the really bizare issue - now that the weather is cold, the issue has substantially (not completely) diminished. On a warm day in the 50's it will act up again. I live in Watkins Glen, NY. Yes, I'm a (Indy Car) racing fan. What can I do?
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I have a 4.0 6 cyl. Jeep wrangler manual transmission. When the jeep is driven in higher RPM close to redline the jeep sputters a bit (doesn't have full power at or close to redline). Is this a governor or does the jeep have a problem? I do not redline often at all. however i live in the mountains and need to travel up steep pass for 1-2 miles every few months.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited w/ 33k miles on it...4.0 engine. Have had it a little over a year. Last Fall, it started having issues whenever we had a lot of rain. Would not crank at all. Replaced the battery and clutch switch, which seems to worked, but is now doing it again. I turn the key and all of the lights come on, but there is not even a click. If I coast it off and pop the clutch, it starts right up. Once it dries out, will start w/ the key without an issue. Have an appt w/ the dealer, but they cannot get to it until Thursday, but I have to drive to work until then.
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I am having a “Check Engine” light problem on a stock 06, 4 cylinder Jeep Wrangler with manual transmission. A local highly regarded independent mechanic has had it in his shop 3 or 4 times for more than a day each time. On the first visit he replaced a purge solenoid valve and reset the light. It stayed off for more than 400 miles and then relit. He went over it and checked the wires and connections and reset the light. Again it stayed off for some time and then relit. He has checked the Jeep site.
After the last visit he suggested I drive it and see if it would reset itself as it had been doing in the past. It did reset itself twice but it only stayed off for 10 miles the first time and 2 the second. The code indicates an electrical problem and he is now planning to drop the fuel tank and check the wires and sensors there. The next step may be an ECM transplant. This is only an emission system problem and the mechanic says it is OK to drive. We do not have emission inspections here. How important is it to fix the problem?
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So last week something happened that I've never had happen before. I was dropping my daughter off at school and I noticed that my dash lights weren't on. My headlights still worked and the blinkers did to.
When I got home and parked it, I checked out all the fuses. There was a 20 amp fuse that was blown, so I replaced it and then checked the relays under the hood. I turned on the key to check the dash lights and they still didn't work. The 20 amp fuse blew again, so I replaced it again. Now the dash lights work again.
However, when I tried to start it, it would turn over, but the fuel pump isn't turning on.
Long story short, I've replaced all 4 relays under the hood, installed a new fuel pump and also replaced some bulbs in my taillights and sides over the front tires. It turns over when I try to start it, but the fuel pump still isn't "kicking" on and it won't start. I feel like somehow, power isn't getting to the fuel pump.
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2007 Jeep Wrangler Manual Transmission: The radio turns off and then back on (shorts out?) when the engine is going really slowly. For instance, when creeping up to a stop light in second gear vice first. Why is this happening? How can I prevent the radio from continuing to do this. In the past I had a Hyundai Elantra, Ford Escort, and a Dodge Colt, all had a manual transmission and none had issues with the radio shorting out.
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I was doing about 65 going up a 7% incline and all of a sudden no power from motor shifted down and kept trying tell 2nd gear and power hit and started accelerating again I know I have a p0420 has kicked on and off with the cluster but could that make this happen?! If not what can make my engine or other parts do this... 2.0 2003 Jetta....
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Our ABS light, anti-skid light, and engine light are on. The light came on when 3 year old son hit it. It just never went off. Dealership hooked it up to diagnostics and said we needed to spend almost 500 on a new ABS system. ALSO, at the same time, the car now sounds like its working very hard to accelerate. The rpm's go up, but there is no additional power. Is this connected to the ABS problem, or is this a transmission problem? Took it to a mechanic and he didn't check the transmission. After talking to him, he said it could be the transmission.
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We were flagged down on the highway by a very nice fellow motorist because we were gushing coolant. It was gushing. My passenger was a guy friend who used to work as an aircraft mechanic and works on his own vehicles, so I deferred to his supposedly greater automotive knowledge when he said I didn't need to call a tow truck. We got to within 100 feet of my mechanic (about 5 miles away) when my poor Jeep conked out after losing power and making an increasingly loud clunking noise for the last 500 or so feet. We pushed it in to the auto repair bay. The engine was smoking and would not start. The mechanic replaced a worn out radiator hose, which had become disconnected from the radiator (due to swelling, I think he said?), and the truck runs. There isn't a discernible difference in the engine performance after driving it around town for the day. My question is this: is the engine likely to be FUBAR and am I just playing a waiting game until it croaks?
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I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
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I own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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