Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2009 - Check Lights Yellow Indicator Came On
Apr 3, 2013
I know a few days ago all of my blinker lights were working properly since I had the car serviced at the dealer and they made me test all the lights before I dropped it off. But yesterday my "check the lights" yellow lightbulb indicator came on, so I thought, ok, probably one of lights burned out. But then, when I needed to turn left, I saw my blinker on the dashboard blink with twice the usual frequency, but the only turning light I could see from behind the wheel, on the left mirror was blinking normally.
So, I stopped, got out of the car and looked around to find that neither of my front or rear left blinkers were working at all. So, here come the questions. How likely is it for BOTH lights to burn out at exactly same time? If they did, would this cause the dashboard blinker to blink at twice the usual rate? And if so, why is the mirror blinker blinks at normal rate? By the way, the right blinker is not affected by this strange affliction. Continuing, what is the best way to find out if this is
(a) capacitor problem,
(b) burned-out light(s) or
(c)(worst possible case)problem with a very expensive control board.
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2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
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I have a 2005 Prius with around 115,000 miles.
I have the following warning lights on:
1) Check Engine
2) Yellow Indicator, looks like exclamation point inside a circle inside parenthesis.
3) Red Multi-information display (exclamation point inside a triangle)
4) Hybrid System Warning Light on display screen, looks like exclamation point through a car
The engine cranks up just fine and drives forward and backward in the driveway fine. Battery level indicator is blue (see image). I checked for turbulence in the inverter reservoir with the engine off and fluid was flowing.
I checked the 12V battery (using the car's measurements by holding Display and turning lights on and off 3 times) and its value was 12.1 volts without engine and A/C on and 11.8 volts with them on.
The fan in the back right passenger seat is always on now though (I don't remember ever hearing this fan noise before), regardless of engine on or not, even though it's only about 80 degrees outside and it's been sitting idle all day and all last night. It comes on pretty much immediately when the power button is pushed.
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Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
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I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
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I have a 2006 Jetta TDi wagon. Only when it is cold and first start up of the day, the raditator indicator light comes on and flashes within 1 minutes of start up. I stop the car and restart. It doesn't come back on (unless it is really cold). I have only had it come on 2 times and then it doesn't come on again nor does it come on later in the day.
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While my car was idling in a CVS parking lot, the VCS, Red Exclamation in a triangle, Yellow Exclamation in a circle and the check engine lights all suddenly turned on.
In reading the forums, it seems the two most likely issues would either be the inverter pump (which I had replaced as part of the recall, and I see the fluid moving in the reservoir), or possibly a bad 12v battery (which I had replaced last year with the forum recommended Optima Yellow Top).
I checked for error codes, and there were numerous ones there at first, but I think that might have been related to the old 12v battery dying (I never reset after that). I cleared the codes, and no new codes are generating.
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I have a 2010 Jetta with the 2.5L 5-cylinder that recently threw on the check engine light for 2 days, then the light shut off. It began once I started the car on a coldish (~20F) morning after it had been sitting curbside for several days with the passenger side wheels sitting on about 6 inches of snow so the car was listing to the side. The car fired up immediately but ran extremely rough for about 10 seconds (the engine throbbed sharply about 2-3 times per second, which could be felt through the steering wheel & seat, accompanied by a muted clunk) before I turned it off.
During this time the CEL flashed on and off and then stayed on. I popped the hood, peered stupidly at the plastic engine cover, and restarted the car about a minute later and it ran normally, but the CEL stayed on. I drove it for two days (~50 miles) with the CEL on, but on the third day (today) the CEL did not turn on. The car has been running normally for all three days. What might have caused the rough idle/CEL and whether I can pretend it never happened since the car seems to be running normally for the third day in a row and the CEL has turned off on its own?
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Whenever I fill up my VW bug it has trouble starting .... Starts fine in the morning or if just sitting BUT when I stop and put in new gas it has trouble starting AND then when it does finally start the check engine light comes on and the code says "misfire" which I am sure is a correct code since in fact it has such a hard time starting but why? Why only after filling up with gas ? And what can I do about it ????
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How do you reset this check lights indicator in the MFI. I installed my euroswitch and 4 yr. old son pulled the switch all the way to turn on the rear fogs and thus...the error code.
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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I've got some problems going on with my 2001 VR6 Jetta. I was driving home from my way to work this evening and all of a sudden the indicator light came on and told me to stop and check the coolant level. Within about three minutes the car was already up to about 200. I pulled over to a gas station and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. So I began to pour coolant in the reservoir and fill it up I notice I was pouring a lot of coolant so I went to the hood looked on the driver side below the bumper and water/cool was pouring out everywhere. I inspected as many radiator hoses as I could and did not find any cracks. The water seem to be pouring out from around the thermostat housing. My question would be since I don't know whole lot about cars would they crack thermostat housing because you need to have this problem?
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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My engine is in trouble. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on. The diagnostics revealed that my Mass Airflow Sensor was done for. I replaced it, and everything was working fine for a week. Then a couple of days ago, my Electronic Power Control (EPC) light came on. The car is really dragging. It have to gun it to make it go above 60 MPH. It's become scary to drive on highways. Are the two issues potentially connected?
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VW Jetta SE 2.5L... Took my car to the dealer for a check engine light, the code came back P0106 which states I need my throttle valve cleaned and the dealer also said I need my brake vacuum pump replaced.. Do these go hand in hand? How should I proceed with the dealer? I have only 60,000 miles on my vehicle was there a recall on this issue? The dealer already updated the software in the technical bulletin.
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Driving to MA from PA, stopped for a meal, got back in car & got msg on info panel that R front headlight was not functioning. It was raining hard, but still daylight in late afternoon. Checked other lights & all seemed ok - running light working. Back in car - another 175 miles to go & it became evident R turn signal wasn't working. Did get to MA early evening, checked lights again & found that brake lights weren't working & more. VW dealer in town checked it out next day & said 30 amp fuse for lighting was melted w/fuse block, which they removed & replaced. Turns out I'm not the first person - VW instantly said they'd refund the $531 it cost, which tells me they're aware it's a fault of theirs. I'm wondering - what caused this? Google tells me they've had probs with this with Tiguans & a bunch of recalls. What's to stop it from happening again? What would have caused the fuse to melt in the first place? My husband has a 2013 Jetta TDI. Does that mean his car is at risk?
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2004 jetta, interior lights & door open light on dashboard intermittently come on and off while driving.
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I had the 2010 Camry I-4 in the dealer last week for the 40K service. They told me I needed fuel injector cleaning and a throttle body housing cleaning which I had done. This afternoon the check engine light came on and at the same time the Slip Indicator light came on.
I ran by Auto-Zone to have them pull the code for the check engine light and it was P0101 which AZ says is Mass or Volume Airflow circuit range and listed probable causes as:Open or short circuit condition, MAF/VAF sensor failure, or Faulty ECM. I called the dealer for an appointment Thursday morning and told him the story and asked if the throttle body or injector cleaning could cause the mass air flow problem. He said "probably not". He also told me that when the Check Engine light comes on the Slip indicator light automatically comes on to show that the VSC is not working while the check engine light is on.
My question is, could the cleaning cause the P0101 and if so what info do I need to argue the case with the dealer? Or, are they unrelated systems?
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I have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
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Long time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
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Last year I had carbon deposits cleaned on all 4 cylinders and fuel injectors replaced at a local shop. The same shop that did this work is now telling me that my crankshaft cradle needs to be resealed because it is leaking oil. There wasn't an oil leak issue prior to the carbon cleaning and replacement of injectors and they were the last people under my hood. I am wondering if this leak could have been caused by faulty reassembly or other damage after cleaning the cylinders and replacing the fuel injectors? I have a 2009 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 with about 75,000 miles.
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