Kia - Rio :: Meter Fuse Blown After Checking ODB Codes?
Jul 29, 2013
The check engine light popped up and I assumed it was due to my exhaust because my engine runs great and I have no fluid loss. However I got an error 03:0. I decided to clear it and see if it pops up again. Well. when I went to reset the code, the meter fuse blew. It took out most of my dash board gages and my car was stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. I changed the fuse and it blew again 3 more times. Ended up doing the unwise thing of putting a 15a fuse in until I solve the issue. I didn't see any pins touching on the ODB port, so I am baffled why it keep blowing now.
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Do the tensioners have an O-ring where they mount to the block? I read a lot about blown tensioner seals...are people talking about the block to tensioner seal or the internal seal between tensioner body and plunger?
Also of course it makes sense to check oil pressure first with real gauge, but if the tensioner seals are toast, then one doesn't really get a good reading until they are replaced.
My dad has an 04 with 90k miles..throwing cam timing codes and you can hear the timing chains stupid noisy at idle. This just happened rather abruptly. Not like the engine oil pressure has been slowly going down due to wear, but like a tensioner seal has finally let go or possibly a guide.
I am thinking about checking the oil pressure before buying the timing components but then realized one truly doesn't know if the low oil pressure is due to blown seal or increased tolerances.
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My fuse keeps getting blown, mechanically and emotionally. My 91 gmc suburban blows the a/c fuse every time i slide the a/c switch to any position. when the fuse goes my emergency brake light turns on and my speedometer stops working. one weird note, my engine seems to run very smooth after the fuse goes, to the point that im not even sure its running but it is. So my question is, where should i start looking to fix the problem? It's too hot/cold in here!"
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What would cause the air bag fuse to blow as soon as I turn on the ignition?
Have tried replacing the fuse and this happens (fuse blows out) each time.
95 3.8L... nearly fully rebuilt.
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So I have an Android smartphone. That I always put on the charger in my 2005. However. I have blown the fuse to the cigarette lighter. Both the one in the center console and the one under the passenger side dashboard.
The last time that happened. I bought the indicated 15 Amp fuse (as the Owner's Manual indicates - vaguely) Only to find that swapping out fuse 20 IIRC. Yielded no power to those ports.
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Just picked up a 1994 1.8 celica hatch and it was told to me that the 100 amp alternator fuse blew and there was some issue. So far haven't found any but I also cant seem to find this 100 amp alt fuse that goes in the fuse box under the hood. I don't have old one.
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So I added in a set of LED lights for my license plate and parking lights. In addition to HID's for the headlights tonight. At some point my tails/parking & license plate lights shut off. I assume its a fuse, I'm wondering if this is common or the result of low quality product.
I've used the same installer/lights on every car I've had for the last 5 yrs and never an issue. No issues in my Scion Xd, Mustangs and so on.
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I don't use my horn unless absolutely necessary. Well, today it was. Guess what? The Sounds of Silence. No horn, no how.
Turned out, the No. 16 fuse was, in fact, blown. What caused that, I don't have a clue. Replaced it and it is working again. Hopefully, not a harbinger of electrical gremlins to come.
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I was installing my LED interior light kit from deautokey and I'm pretty sure I blew a fuse. No interior lights are working now. I found the fuse box but which fuse controls interior lighting circuit.
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I have a 2002 Camry... So I stupidly connected the battery backwards, negative to positive, etc... Now there's no electrical at all, no dashboard lights, nothing. I see the 100a fuse is blown. Does this signify that the rest of my car was protected ? Will replacing that fuse probably fix the problem or when the battery is connected backwards does the rest of the electric get fried as well ?
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I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
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I have a 1995 Honda civic. It blew the PGM-fi fuse after installing a working horn. Then the car wouldn't turn off. It was In Park I removed the key and the engine and brake lights were still on. When I completely disconnect the gauge assembly the car will then shut off with the key. When the gauge assembly is connected engine won't shut off, brake lights stay on and speedometer won't work. I read a few tips in an online form- I tried unplugging the alternator while the car was in off position (engine still running) this had no effect.
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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Further reading suggests it could be the fuse blown causing this code, this code was coming up among others with the old lambda, so at least it cleared some codes.
Where is the fuse located for the O2 sensor? Will try that. How much more fuel will it be using also? Used half a tank doing approx 110 miles surely that's not right?
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I was driving in traffic when the "Check Coolant" message appeared in the MFD. I looked at the coolant temp and it was approaching 280F. I immediately pulled into a shopping mall parking lot and stopped the engine. I popped the hood and saw that the coolant resevoir was full. There was no coolant on the ground but there was a coolant odor. I called for a tow and had the car towed to the VW shop within a mile of where I broke down.
When the tech got to my car, they said that the "computer" pointed them to the fans and their relays/modules (2). They placed an order for these parts. Once they arrived, they installed the new fans and relays but they couldn't get the fans to operate. They subsequently removed these new parts and replaced them with the old parts. They then opened a dialog with VW Tech-Line.
Somehow they discovered that the fuse to the fan modules was blown. This was replaced and the fans began to work. After running a "system scan" it reported a bad ignition switch. This is now on order. My car has been in the shop for almost 2 weeks because of this. What's going on here? Was the fuse the culprit all along? If so would the computer have pointed them to the fuse or would they have had to find it themselves?
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As part of my 2 months saga of a defective transmission (LINK) the main 150 amp fuse between the battery and the alternator was found blown (after the dealer had for a week) and replaced.
Now I picked up my car and the radio will not turn on, does not light up or display anything. Tranny guy said he never tried it, I assume something happened when the main fuse was blown.
I checked both the 5 and 15 Amp fuses in the engine compartment assigned to the radio, both are good.
Is there another fuse inside the radio or something like that?
This is a 2006 Passat Value Edition
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I own a 2005 GX 470 recently I got in to drive the car and the navigation screen would work for climate control and audio functions but the map would not display. A bunch of warning lights were also on ABS, VSC etc. Upon investigation I found the ECU-B fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and everything appeared to be fine. About 3 days later and the same thing happened again. I again replaced the fuse and it lasted a couple of days and blew again. I have not been able to isolate it to any one thing that seems to trip it. How to best determine the cause of the issue?
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I have a 1996 camry and the break light don't come on non of them. I change the switch under the break pedal and it didn't work. I change the fuse but when I did so it spark and blew the fuse. Is there a reason for this? where should i go next with this issue.
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Weird deal here, the backup light fuse blows on a 1999 Neon and the AC quits blowing cold. I replace the fuse and the AC starts blowing cold. I found out this is the #8 fuse, 10 amp and it controls the rear window heat, fan relay, ac cycling switch and backup lights.
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My camry used to crank a couple of seconds longer and then take. Yesterday it died just after starting and wont start. It cranks. Checked and found fuse 15 in eng comp blown. Changed it and blew again. Check fuel pump, it seems to work when momentarily apply power to it. The engine management light does not come on when swithing ignition on any more as well. The airbag light also does not come on since this as well. Was wondering if ecu is gone bad?
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