Mazda - 626 :: 1996 - Check Engine Light Past 50 MPH
Mar 21, 2014
What's weird with my car recently after I recently put more engine oil into the car the next time I drove the car RPM started to zoom up past 25 mph and then it clicks back and the RPMs go back to normal. And the RPMs soup up it goes to the number three or even four RPMs. Also before this happened when I would go to a stop sign or even stop my car for a second it would shake and shut off. I mean the engine would be on but the car would not move. A couple weeks later I put transmission fluid into the car and it stopped doing that.
Listen to my car was doing this my car would be acting weird on the freeway. For example it has no problem getting on the freeway and catching up to the right miles per hour but once I get past 50 mph the check engine light will come on. When this happens nothing seems like there's anything wrong with my car but on the other hand. I don't know if it's taking too long to catch up to speed. All in all the car doesn't shake when I'm at a stop sign anymore once I put more transmission fluid in my car but this whole 50 mph and the check engine light comes on doesn't make any sense because this seems like my car is fine . 1996 mazda 626 es....
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I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
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Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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Why does the check engine light come on for no reason in my 1999 mazda protege 1.6 ....
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After idling for a while the check engine light has come on and stays on. I have a 2005 Mazda RX8. the car has 44000 miles on it,
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I have a 2008 Mazda CX-7, I take it in routinely for oil changes. somewhere between oil changes, there was an oil leak that had developed. no warning lights came on - no check engine light or oil light but the levels were low. I don't know how long it was leaking for, there was never any oil in the driveway or garage.
Any way, I took it to my dealer when diagnosed it with a dye test and told me that I needed to replace the oil filter, gasket and the entire oil cooler to properly fix the leak.
My question is for an opinion as to how urgent this repair is or if I should try and take it to a local mechanic, not my dealer. I have to say my dealer's service is less than desirable anyway. I have been checking the oil levels since I had it in on the 20th of January and it has not gone done. there are small spots on occasion on the driveway but nothing too major and I have not had to add oil to it since I had it looked at.
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The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 141,000 miles. Recently, I've burned up both O2 sensors causing the check engine light to come on. My mechanic has replaced each and they've burned out again. The head gasket was replaced after that, to no avail. The check engine light continues to come on after being cleared in the computer. I have also noticed that on humid days, the car misfires on at least one cylinder., but any other time, it seems fine. What to check next? My mechanic is at a loss.
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The check engine light is blinking on my 98 Mazda Protege. I'd like to purchase one of those little hand held computers so that I can diagnose the problem myself. Should I leave it up to the professionals?
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Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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I drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
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I have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
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My daughter has a 1996 Saturn SL with something over 100K miles on it. It runs generally well, although using a quart of oil every thousand miles or so. It passes the smog check required for her registration. It's had new spark plugs within the recommended period.
Recently she went on a road trip, and hit stop-and-go traffic for a couple of hours in one large city; it being January in a warm climate, the weather that day was presumably neither very hot nor cold. The Check Engine light came on. Fortunately she had the time to take it to a mechanic recommended by a friend local to the area, who pronounced the engine OK. She proceeded without incident for the rest of her thousand mile trip.
Sounds to me like the emissions crossed some threshold beyond "marginal" during the lengthy idling and running at low speed. Question: if we wanted to avoid such a condition, what kind of repair would be recommended.
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Driving on highway, check engine light goes on, speedometer drops from 60 to 0 but nothing else happens. Come to a stoplight and engine light stays on and speedometer works again. Any diagnostics?
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This is my friend's car and I have never looked under a Subaru hood before. She is getting an intermittent check engine light with codes for cylinder misfires on one and three. Today, I inspected the plugs and all four looked identical, a nice uniform tan color and good condition. No sign of deposits or oil. Did a compression test and found the driver's side bank at 155/150 and the passenger side bank at 185/190. My question at this point is which side is cylinders 1 and 3? The front-most cylinder is on the passenger side. Is this the number 1 and 3? If so, then the low compression on the other bank cannot account for the misfire.
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