Mercedes-benz - 190 :: 1991 - Rattling And Shuddering Noise When In Drive At Idle
Nov 14, 2016
I own a 91 Mercedes, model 190E which is just perfect for a retired single woman. As you probably already assume this car has 141,000 miles with an automatic transmission and I have had it in the various mechanic shops in my small town. I tried to remain with one mechanic or another, for continuity sake, but always find there is something haywire with the repairs done to it.
After one of the repairs jobs which included the replacement of the torques converter, rear main and transmission seals to include the O-rings, the car wouldn't shift from first gear. They kept it for 5 weeks during this repair. I had to rent a car for transportation during this period. I took the car back and they kept it for another three weeks.
When the car was returned to me it had a shuddering noise when in drive at idle. If I shift to neutral gear the noise and shuddering stops. I didn't take it back after that I was so discouraged about the change in the operation of my vehicle. I depend on these mechanics and just feel they are taking advantage. I have taken the car to several mechanics and cannot find anyone that can identify the problem. So, what is causing it the rock and roll of this car.
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I bought a 1979 Mercedes 300SD Turbo Diesel. The car was in great shape and only had 45,000 miles on it, no rust and the engine runs strong. It did have a brakes problem.
The owner that I bought it from had been driving it around for some time (he never did tell me how long) with toasted brakes. I didn't know they were toast at the time but the car was really cheap, so I bought it.
The big issue with the car is that when you reached around 50+ mph it would start to shake and shudder violently. So much so that it was very unsafe to drive. I could also smell burning brakes. The first thing I did was get 4 new tires on it, and an alignment. I suspected it needed much more then that so from there it was to a repair shop.
It turns out the previous driver had cooked the brakes. He had been driving around with a bad master cylinder, the shuddering was the brakes being applied on and off while driving. That explained the burning brakes smell (from the front) as well. I was a strapped for cash so they replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads and master cylinder. After that, it drove ok for about 40 miles or so, then the shudder started again, only not as bad as before.
I parked it in the back yard for the next two weeks. At that point I took it out again for about a two mile test drive to see if I could spot anything that set it off... about a mile into the drive, the brake light came on and I lost about 50% of my braking power. Parked it again.
About two weeks after that, I brought it to the repair shop again for round two (This time when I started it, the brake light didn't come on, and the brakes behaved normally...???) . This time, they replaced the front rotors (and possibly another item but I can't remember off the top of my head). It drove great for another 30-40 miles again and then the burning brakes smell came back. I could also feel a little bit of the shaking coming from the steering wheel again. I decided to have the tires balanced again. While there the burning smell was strong, the tire and brakes guys said it was probably just everything re-seating and not to worry about it to much.
All went well for the next little while. Several days went by where I would feel the vibration start, but then go away again before it became to bad. It was just kind of annoying. Then Friday, it started coming back like it was originally. I commute 70 miles each way for work.On the commute home Friday, it started the same old original shaking and shuddering again. It was about 25% of its original strength, it only lasted a mile or two, then vanished again. By the end of the long weekend, I was starting to think maybe I was over estimating it, so I drove it to work again. Same thing, once on the way it did its shuddering and shaking, stronger this time, it does it for a few miles then vanishes.
Over lunch, I took it the dmv and the shuddering was just as bad as it was when I bought it. I got about 2 miles down the freeway and it started shaking violently once it was up to 60mph, the shaking comes back under control somewhat under 55mph, but the problem persisted for most of the 12-13 miles to the dmv. When I parked, there was the strong smell of burning brakes again. On the drive back to work, it behaved normally, although I didn't go faster then 60mph. The shaking seems to start at the beginning of the commute, lasts for 10+ miles or so, then goes away.
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This morning while listening to cartalk I am stopped at a stop sign. I press on the gas to start off from stop - hear a loud bang as if I hit something. All of a sudden my engine is revving hard, whining noise but no power to drive. Luckily I had enough gradient to put the car in neutral and float it to a stop by the curb. Car does not move on Drive or Reverse but engine runs fine and revs up but no power to both axle. Where the issue is? The car is 82K miles and has driven great. where is the issue??? Axle break down/ CV joint break down/transfer case break down/ What is it?
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I have a 1991 300sel Mercedes, when you come to a stop light it stalls, this happens few times a day for a week and then it's ok for s couple of weeks and than it does it again, I've changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, did a tune-up, don't know what else to look for?
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My father is gifting me his 1991 Mercedes-Benz 300E 4matic, but it won't start. He's taken it to a specialist locally and to the dealership and they cannot find one thing wrong with it to explain why, or fix it, but every time he gets it home it won't start.
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when the temperature is above roughly 60 degrees, I can drive the car for a short while, even a few miles, and it will start to sputter and eventually stall. At that point the car won't start, it turns over fine, but sounds like it's not getting any gas. If I wait 15-20 minutes it starts fine and will repeat the same process. Is there some temperature sensor or something that prevents the engine from starting after it gets hot, or is it something else. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate the engine is hotter than normal. I've taken it to my car shop twice and they haven't found anything. 1991 mercedes e300...
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Last Saturday I was driving my 1999 Mercedes ML320 SUV (163,000 miles) on a highway in California (for about 70 miles) when suddenly I saw a huge cloud of smoke behind me but I didn’t hear any noise and didn’t notice any change in the car driving. I was not sure if it was my car or somebody else car. On Sunday I was driving on a city street and suddenly I saw the same smoke but not of that extent but with a rattle from the back side of the car. I quickly stopped on a side street and saw whitish/bluish smoke from the tailpipe. In a couple of minutes, the smoke disappeared and I drove the car back home. No more smoke since then. I checked the code and it showed P0700 (is there for a couple of months) and P0442 (new code). I called a couple of mechanics and one checked the car but none knows what caused the smoke. The mechanic said that P0442 is not the cause of the smoke. The engine oil is still good and to the max. A mechanic recently replaced the EGR valve. Can I drive the car or I might do more damage?
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I have a 1998 Mercedes ML. In the past few weeks, there is quite a loud metallic knock when I start driving. It does not happen if I take off real slowly. What could be the cause?
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1978 Mercedes 240D ... My clutch pedal loses all function after I drive over 45mph. If I wait 10 minutes, it works again.
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I've got a merc C230 Kompressor that has 174k miles on it. The car typically runs really well and is not underpowered or anything. Last weekend I took a road trip that was 400 miles or so. The car did fine for the first 300 miles but then began running rough and was underpowered. Was acting like there was a fouled plug. I pulled over and stopped the car where it sat for about 5 mins. When I restarted the car, it was back to normal, with a smooth idle and not underpowered. It ran fine for about 30 mins and then began running rough and underpowered. I find that when it starts running rough, if I stop the car and turn it all the way off for at least 60 seconds, then when i turn it back on it will operate normally again for a bit. This also only seems to be happening when its really hot weather, 90 degrees F or higher.
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My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
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Car: 2000 Mercedes-Benz E320 (W210) 4matic
This car runs beautifully if the air temperature is above 60 degrees or so (maybe 65) Fahrenheit.
If the air temperature, however, is much cooler, and the engine has had enough time to cool to air temperature, it stalls. Here's the sequence:- Start the car. Car runs fine, sounds good. Initial idle speed about 1200-1500 RPM.- Wait for car to warm up for a few seconds so it settles into normal idle. Idle speed settles to about 800 RPM after 5-20 seconds, depending upon air temperature.- Shift car into gear (D or R - doesn't matter). Idle speed drops to 500 or so, then the car stalls.- Restart the car. Allow it to warm up significantly (how much depends upon air temperature). - Shift into gear (D or R). Engine idle speed drops a bit, then recovers to ~800 RPM. No problems after that.
If it's a little cool (55-60 degrees Fahrenheit), I can drive off once the engine temp gauge needle rises a few degrees (45-50 degrees Centigrade).If it's around freezing (20-40 degrees Fahrenheit), I can't drive off until the engine temp gauge reaches nearly 80 degrees Centigrade.
If I'm on a hill (pointing down), I can start at a slightly lower temperature by allowing the car to start rolling as soon as I shift into gear. In this case, there's less resistance, so the idle speed doesn't go low enough to stall the car. If I am on a level surface (or pointing uphill), 80 degrees Centigrade seems to be almost a magic number when the air temperature is below 40 Fahrenheit (near freezing). When the needle is showing about 78 degrees Centigrade, the car will still stall. When it reaches 80 degrees Centigrade, the car is fine, and will not even come close to stalling when put in gear.
ONE CONFUSING VARIABLE: When I took this to my mechanic, it didn't exhibit the problem for him. When I picked it up (about 30 Fahrenheit), it stalled. He came out and started it, put it into gear, and it idled without stalling. I got in and let him watch while I got in, started it, put it into gear, and it stalled. We have no explanation as to why this would be any different (we tried several times, varying techniques, brake pressure, etc., with the same confusing results).
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Hot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
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I filled up my car at the local gas station. It had been raining non-stop for the past three days and nights. 10-15 minutes later as I'm stopped at a light, the car starts shuddering, almost stalls a few times. Rough idle all the way home.
I limp home, guessing water in the fuel. Next day I go to Advance Auto and buy some fuel additives which are supposed to solve the water problem. The guy there mentions that he's had a number of reports of similar issues from this particular gas station (it's now out of business, go figure). Additives make things better but not fully.
2 tanks of gas later now and the rough idle is much better but not gone. Car seems to have less power and sounds a little bit raspy on acceleration (not noticeable unless driving near a wall which can bounce the sound back). My guess is that one of the cylinders is not firing, maybe needs a new spark plug?
The more worrisome thing is that as the car has started running more smoothly I've also noticed a smell of gas after startup (may still be there when running but I don't notice it then) -- coming from the exhaust. This seems to be in-line with the missing cylinder theory but I'm running blind here as I don't have much experience on this topic.
The car's a 1997 C280. 130K on it. It's old but mechanically the thing has been a tank so far (Inline 6 I think) -- very sturdy and responsive. I'm hoping that this whole ordeal hasn't done permanent damage.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
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Last week I noticed that my engine (2006 ML350 33,000 miles )was not sounding as it normally does. I called my foreign car repair shop that normally maintains my car but could not get an appointment for several days.
My husband thought that it was possibly a bad bearing in one of the belt pulleys near power steering pump. The noise was getting louder so my shop looked at it sooner and determined I needed a power steering pump, reservoir, gasket, fluid,accessory belt tensioner and belt.
I had no choice but to get the repair.When I picked up my car it still didn't sound right. I was told it would take a little time to break in. Well all week my car was making a lot of different sounds until it got so loud I wouldn't drive it. I took it in today and got the call that it needed what I think was called a/c tensioner pulley. I just want to know if this seems possible. (Car drove fine and no problems with steering before first repair).
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My 2001 Mercedes CLK320 has ~150k on it. The maintenance etc. has been kept up to date. A few months ago the car engine started to run noisily and began to vibrate. It's worse when it's cold out or if the car is at stopped but not in park (like when you're at a stop light or drive thru). The vibration and noisy engine running lessen considerable after the car runs for a while and if the car is in the park. I already had a tune up by the MB dealer about 9 months ago. Diagnosis? Also, I'm obviously at that point where the dealer service shop no longer makes sense. I'm going to drive this car (hopefully) beyond 200k, however, it would be nice to get rid of this problem. Otherwise, the car really is almost as good as new!
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My 1999 Mercedes ML 320 with 180K started ticking when my wife turned the temperature control from cold to hot last week. Before this, it ran fine with a fairly new a/c installed - ~1 year ago. It was a cool morning. I started the car and she turned the control from blue to red. The ticking sound started immediately and only cooler air came out.
The a/c also does not blow cool air anymore either. The ticking is constant and low when the controller is in the blue and louder and faster when the control is turned to red. What happened, what the problem may be, and repair options? I haven't taken it in to my mechanic yet and would like to get some preliminary thoughts.
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I have a serious suspicion that I have a timing chain rattle. Using a pipe I located the sound to the front of the engine. It ticks much faster than the injectors like more than ten times faster. There are a few different parts involved with the timing chain tension. I have 150k miles on this car.... MB 1995 c220 ....
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I got a Mercedes Benz, SL560, US style, 8 cylinders, from 1987, mileage around 130 000I got the camshafts, rockers, and valve changed these days as the lifters were a little worn out as I was told. So I decided to do it now than later. But since the mechanic changed them I get a bad knocking noise and shaking at start up. It disappears after up to 5 minutes. The mechanic said he only changed the parts. That's it. Nothing else done. When I was there doing the work I say him using the chain. I left the shop as I could not wait till the work was done.
Someone told me that the clearance of the valve has to be checked and adjusted. Mechanics say that it is not possible as my engine is W117 and there is nothing to adjust. It will do it automatically. I took the car back as clearly that mechanic could not do anything else then for the car. He also does not want the car back. He hung up when we tried to ask him to check the car again (like checking the timing chain). Well. In between I asked another shop to check it. They replaced only 3 rockers again. They were new!!! There was a slight damage on them. I guess this is the part of the rockers where you put the screwdriver on. That is why it was a bit "damaged".This second mechanic said I should just drive the car as the problem will be less in ... dont know when. Hundred of miles, days, weeks?
I am not satisfied with this situation and therefore I am here to ask what the problem might be. This wasnt there before the camshaft was changed!I cannot really make the mechanic do what I am asking for. I am now in an asian country and they do what they wanna do. I am only there to pay high prices and nothing is done what I wanted. With this mechanic I am trying to get him to check the timing chain (chain tension) and plastic guide rails? Could this cause the problem or also something else?I wanna know what it might be so that I can tell mechanic when he picks up the car.
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OK, so this is a 2012 ML350 Blue-tech with around 31,000 miles on it. Lately when it is warm (either by driving for 30 minutes or more, or by outside temperature of 80 plus), it has been making the strangest front end groaning noise when coming to a stop and when pulling away. It sounds like the front end suspension is "groaning". It doesn't have to be a hard stop, gentle will do just fine. The car comes to a halt, the front end dips slightly - "groooaaan" (perhaps more on the rebound than the initial dip). You start up again, the front end unloads, and "groan".
Very disconcerting on a car as smart as this. Tom and Ray know this car - this is the one with the "smart radio" (switches channels at voice command…) The dealer is stumped. They have the car for the third time now and even though both a mechanic and the shop foreman have been shown the problem (taken for a test drive ), they have been unable to come up with either a diagnosis or a fix. They replaced the front sway bar links once to no avail.
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