Mercury - Cougar - Transmissions :: 1999 - Hard To Shift / Engine Codes
Apr 14, 2011
i have a 1999 mercury cougar and for almost a year when I drive it on the highway then get off and go to drive again it gives me a hard shift and will continue doing so, but if i turn the car off then back on it doesn't do it, very weird, but i got the codes and not sure what my next step would be to fixing it p1744- TCC system perform p1519 - IMRC stuck closed again this only happened when i drive the car for about 10-15 min on the highway then get off...
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I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
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I had to drive 70 miles last week the temp outside was 98. My air conditioner was blowing cold air, I parked my car for 30 minutes. When I started my car again the air would not work, no blower nothing. I was on my way to have it tested, turned it on and it is working and blowing cold air. I do not to be stuck again traveling and it stop.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Cougar after it rains, I am get water on the left sided rug a lot and my tuck is wet too. How I can fix the leak and where its coming it at ...
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The engine cranks and tries to start when the battery is connected. It does this automatically, you don't even need the key or ignition to be turned on. The remote selonoid has been replaced so has the starter. The car does start and run when you let it but the starter remains engaged so its LOUD. I have bypassed the ignition switch by disconnecting it entirely, however the car still cranks and wants to turn on when the battery is connected.
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I'm not sure whats wrong here but i think its a plugged exhaust or clogged catalytic converter but whats happening is when I drive my car is lacking power huge, sometimes ill push on the gas and it will hardly move and start chugging but if i push down more it will go. When i go on on ramps to the highway as soon as i hit 70km it starts to chug then i have to push the pedal to the floor to get going,then after a while the car will start to shake after 5-10 minutes of driving and i have to let it cool down or it will keep shaking or just go back onto city roads and it doesnt shake as bad. Once im off the highway my car will begin to shake more at 20km and 60km i have no clue why!
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Description of Problem: 1999 mercury cougar 2.5L V6 automatic trans: I was driving down the road and suddenly lost power. The engine was still running but sounded a little rough so i turned it off. then it wouldn't start. After having it parked for a couple months i started looking ant it and notice that the starter is spinning the flexplate but the harmonic balance isn't turning. It does turn by hand with a socket. After talking to a mechanic i was told a used motor would run. He said i broke the crank or timing chain? I thought if it was the timing chain the harmonic balancer would still turn, he didn't agree. and i thought it was unlikely that the crank would just break driving down the road. What it could be? or how i can narrow it down. If the flexplate or bolts broke off would that cause my problem?
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I've been have been having a problem with my car. It initially started at Christmas when I went up to MI for a visit. It would have problems shifting into gear after reversing. At first I just thought it was because it wasn't used to the really cold weather as we live in AL.When I returned it still did it, I would try the other gears available on the auto transmission and it still seemed to have a problem shifting from 1 to 2. It would slow down and you could rev the engine and it still would not shift.
All of a sudden it would kick and shift and you could drive. This only happened the first time you drove it that day. It would also kick very slightly when you went below 30mph. It doesn't do that anymore.I went for another visit up north and while I was there it started kicking whenever I was over 60mph. When i got back to AL I took it into the dealership as the check engine light came on. It now kicks all the time regardless of speed, though does it less at lower speeds, but if there is exertion on the engine like a hill, it kicks, kicks, kicks. When it kicks the rpm goes down and up.The dealer said that the things that needed to be changed are:- front assembly trans pump- crank sensor- gasket- oil pan.
I've tried taking it to a transmission place to have just the pump changed for less and all they wanted to do was give me a whole new transmission. This car is on it's third transmission as far as I know and a new/rebuilt one was just put in 2 years ago.After talking with my father (who was a engineer) he told me a way to check if the crank sensor a problem was to have the car in neutral and rev the engine. He said that it would still do the same problems if it was the crank sensor. I did this and it did not kick at all.Is there any real way of knowing if it is really the pump that is causing all these problems or if it really needs a new transmission or something else.
Chrysler Town and Country, 2003, 134K ...
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I own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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My wife's 2004 Mercury Sable broke down on the highway last night. We had it towed to the nearest Ford Dealership and are awaiting the official diagnosis. I am 99% sure it is transmission, as the engine didn't die, but zero of engines power is reaching tires in any gear.
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My 2005 PT Cruiser (not turbo) is giving me a very frustrating P0700 code and a weird problem. First thing in the cold, autumn, the car drives perfectly fine (through still with the engine code on). Once the day warms up a little, the transmission decides that shifting past second gear is for punks and won't do it, so 30 mph has the engine revving at 3K rpm.
My morning commute is 20 minutes, and in that time, I go up to 50 mph with no issues. Driving home, or any other time of day, becomes the issue. What in the world could possibly be going wrong? I've been trying to hit up the junkyard for a PCM to see if switching that out would work, but it's been too rainy and cold to get out there.
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Is it possible for the roof of a 1996 Mercury Cougar to buckle or crease from a rear end accident that has caused frame damage but no damage to the quarter panels? Bumper looks fine but a frame is off on Mash and Sway.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Cougar and ever since i bought it (8 months ago) it is fueling up really slow. It takes about 20 mins to put 13 gallons of gas in. I have to just barely squeeze the handle to keep from the gas spurting back out. Its so slow that you can count the cents as it adds up. If i don't hold it really slow the gas comes spewing back out the neck of the gas tank, or just bubbles back out and shuts the pump off.
I thought it could be that my evap canister was plugged or the lines running from the gas tank to it, so i brought it in and they blew out all the lines with an air compressor and they said it was all clear. Its getting really frustrating standing out there at the pump for 20 mins. I really want to get this fixed before the COLD of MN winters comes!!!
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'97 cougar, v6, fuel injected, occasionally cuts out at low idle. not overheating, not fuel filter. this happens most often when car is completely warmed up and in traffic or at stop lights. can keep it running by putting it in neutral and keeping rpm s up. has been happening, I m ashamed to say, for about a year. I am almost sure it is something simple, but I only know old carburated (sp?). engines. now is getting worse and happening, still intermittently, even at higher engines. I know it s dangerous and should not be driven until fixed.
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I have a 1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 3.8 L V-6 with 138,000 miles that has been having overheating and coolant loss issues for the past 3 months. So far I have replaced the radiator (cracked), 2 thermostats (not opening), and the thermostat housing; which is where the mechanic said the leak was coming from. I don't have a visible leak now but it is still overheating after about 15 mins of driving it. I took it back to the same mechanic who said the sealant on the head gasket needed to be replaced.
As far as I know, there is no "sealant" ON the head gasket...the head gasket is the sealant. I took it to a different mechanic who said I have leaks in several of the coolant hoses. I can smell antifreeze every time I get out of my car, but I don't see any leaks. I am concerned I've blown the head gasket but the mechanic says they cannot test that until the hoses are fixed. Does this sound reliable? Could it be a hose issue and that's all?
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I have a 2000 Mercury Cougar with about 145k miles.
Today I was driving and when I slowed down to come to a stop it acted as if it wanted to cut off by sputtering. As I got down to about 5-10mph the engine shut off (the radio and everything else was still running) I noticed that as I was slowing down right before it shut off, the RPM was going very low, almost down to zero.
I do have check engine, and low coolant level lights on.For the check engine there are a few codes.1. Something with the catalytic convertor2. 02 Sensors3. Transmission slippage4. I think there was something else but I forgot.
I do need new motor mounts. The oil light comes only when I am idle and after driving for a good 5-10min. I changed my oil about a month and a half ago though.The only time there is issues is upon stopping. Driving and acceleration is fine.
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I have a 1990 mercury cougar its having a weird issue its like it surges when driving at higher speeds you feel a small push-pull feeling, also going up hill its like i loose throttle at about 20mph then i feather the gas for a second and it comes back and this repeats at about 40mph or when I need to pass or speed up in general i took it into my ford dealership they plugged it in told me it was the egr valve the dpfe senor and the tpi sensor which all have been replaced still having the same issue took it back in he told me it was my alternator and fuel relay switch both replaced brand new as well still having the same issue most of my family is all mechanics and there completely stumped and this didn't come on slowly i noticed it last week on the way back from work. I've also replaced spark plugs properly gaped fuel filters hell replaced the suspension air filter oil change the works and well were all at a loss of what it is?
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I have a 2001 mercury cougar, every time the fuel gets to a half tank or below it stalls when going up a hill or around a curve, anytime u give it extra acceleration when it's a half tank or below it stalls and sputters, it's been in the shop for 3 months and got it out and ran good for a day now back bad I need a mechanics advice on what it could be other than fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 sensor, or plugs and wires... I've tried all of them...
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93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
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The windows in my car, a 1997 Cougar, have recently started fogging up inside. It only started doing this for the past week week and a half. I've checked the carpets and they're all dry. My car is the only one in the parking lot with fogged up windows. What do I do?
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