Mercury - Grandmarquis :: 2009 - Trunk Latch Malfunction?
Apr 20, 2013
The trunk latch on my 2009 Mercury Marquis is malfunctionng. It sometimes will close OK, then at other times it will not, and then it requires that I hit the trunk button on the car remote button to make ithe latch close. I have tried WD-40 on it, but it still does not work OK. The Ford dealer said that I need a new latch installed at a cost of $265! Can I buy a new lacth (ca. $45) and install it myself, or does it require any special tools or a reset of the car's onboard computer?
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I was noticing this morning, that my left front and right rear windows didn't work. Also each of my two side mirrors would only adjust to the left but not to the right. When I try to do the non-working windows the dome light would dim a little bit when I push the button, but no sound or anything.
This is an intermittent problem. They usually work, but sometimes they don't.
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I'm having several problems, and I'm wondering if they are related: Sometimes the heat/ac/vent blows on the windshield instead of where they are supposed to be. Occaisionally it works at first, and then changes after a few minutes to blow onto the windshield.
Sometimes I get a buzzing sound under the hood. Usually when I'm stopped, but sometimes while moving. The car idles high when this happens. If I tap the accelerator, this usually stops the noise and the idle drops to normal.
This morning, the brake warning light kept coming on while using the brake. The fluid level and pedal are OK, and the car stops OK. Then the buzzing sound came on, the engine light came on, and the brake warning light went out at the same time. The brake light hasn't come on since. The scanner tool indicates the IAC was running too fast.
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Although it starts most of the time, about two times a week it will act as though it's going to and won't. We had it in a shop for about 3 weeks and the mechanic said it started every time for him. When I got it back, within a few days it would not start. I try after about an hour and it starts. He ran diagnostic tests and nothing showed up. I want to give this car to my teenage granddaughter and I can't have this problem.
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Getting slight vibration when traveling at about 60 to 65 mph. Tires are almost new and had them rebalanced about 2000 miles ago. Shocks are less than a year old. Wondering if it is a wheel balance problem or possibly an alignment problem.
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How the HVAC system on the big Merc and Crown Vic are controlled. One answer says it's vacuum, another says it's electrical, another says electronic via the BCM. Which is correct? Does it have an electric servo to move the flapper door(s) like the Taurus I'm familiar with? Even the BCM has to have something to tell to move the flapper doors.
In the car I'm looking at, the lines into and out of the evaporator are cold when A/C is selected and the compressor clicks in. That makes me think the issue is with air direction. All I have to do is figure out why.
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Have a 2000 grand marquis that will not start after it gets warmed up. Recently had two occasions where after driving for about half hour and it's shut off, it will not start. Cranks good, but will not start. After it "cools down" it will start. Have had it to my mechanic and the dealership. They can't find anything??? They say it has to get worse before they can make it better. They don't want to start throwing parts like fuel pumps at it.
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My garage was struck by lighting this morning, and about two hours later I heard a very loud snap coming out of the vicinity of my garage. The snap was so loud, my ears were ringing. When I went to start my car (2002 Mercury Grand Marquis), it would just crank, but never turn over. The interior lights and trunk lights did not work, so I replaced the battery thinking that the power surge could have affected the electrical system of my car...and I needed a new battery anyway. With the new battery installed, all of the lights once again work, but the car still will not start. The voltage meter is low and it never runs low. I tried resetting the fuel pump shutoff, but it was never tripped and I can hear it pumping when I turn the key on. Is it likely that the mechanical failure is due to forces outside of electricity even though this car has never failed to start, or could the electrical surge have affected something else (alternator, fuses, etc.)?
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My windshield wipers do not park all the way down. The left one is up at a 5 degree incline, the right one more like 15 or 20 degrees. I went through a car wash today, and the air dryer blew them all the way to the left, and back to the right a little. I turned them on and back off, and they returned to the original position (5 and 15 degrees). Car is 2002 Grand Marquis LS.
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My '03 Grand Marquis "shudders" when I accelerate, especially up hills. It feels like it cuts in and out momentarily, shaking backward and forward. Here is what I have had done, based on mechanics' advice: replace spark plugs, replace fuel filter, clean throttle body, clean mass airflow sensor. It still does it after all this and I am stumped.
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Today while driving my 03 marquis the check engine light started blinking, after a few blinks I noticed it stopped . But a few moments later it started blinking again then stopped, so on an so on. I also noticed that the car had a immediate loss of power and it seemed like my car was missing, and while trying to give it gas it would shutter. It never killed on me but I can tell it ain't running right. A friend of mine told me to push the brake down while car was running an in drive, an give it gas like you was going to,"power brake it". I did, and instead of it power braking it just shook forward as if it only had 4cyl instead of 8cyl. then my buddy said its a bad "coil", no how he knows that idk. But is that true or what it might be???
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We have a 1994 Grand Marquis. Sometimes when driving the check engine light comes on and suddenly she doesn't want to accelerate very fast at all. If you do try to hit the gas, it sounds like the engine speeds up but there is no change in acceleration. It is also hard to get to/over 50mph. If you pull over and rev the engine a few times (slowly) there is an audible click from somewhere inside the engine. It will happen a few times and then the car seems fine. Inevitably the issue will come back a some miles down the road.It doesn't get driven every day and so far we have not had the light come on when we are near anyone that can read the error. Also, it resets and is not on if you turn the car on and off, even if the problem persists. It only comes on while driving (though it will stay on if put into park and left running). Oh, and possibly related, it seems that the air that is put out form the defroster is very damp when this happens (sometimes).
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Several minutes after I start driving in the morning, my car starts making a strange noise under the hood. It sounds like a motor running, or a strange buzz. After a few minutes, the noise stops stops. When it does, and if I'm stopped at a light, my engine jerks one time. The engine actually shut off one day, but I could start it right up. It does this once during the trip. The speed of the car or engine has no effect on the sound, but it stops if I turn the car off. If I restart the car, the noise does not return.
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What would make a 2000 mercury grand marquis stall when turning right? I turned the key and it started running again. Check the engine light and it was po442 which is the emissions leak.
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So earlier today when I tried to start my car it wouldn't start! I tried cranking her over twice and I got nothing. The battery gage needle didn't move when I tried starting her up the few times. What's weird is that I took my other car (parents) out to run the errands I needed to run and when I got back I thought to myself "well maybe the battery is dead and needs to be jumped" that makes sense right? So as I pull up next to my car I decided to try starting her one last time and when I put the key in and cranked her over she started right up! Not a stutter or anything! So I'm left with the feeling that maybe it could be a failing alternator ? Or possibly a loose cable or something ?
Btw the car is a '98 Mercury Grand Marquis.
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For years, intermittently, my Check Engine Light was on steady. The Ford dealer tried four times (at a cost to me of nearly $400) but was never able to fix the problem. I was always able to get it smogged because I took it in during those periods when the light was functioning normally. But now I've got to get the car smogged again and the light is dead. Could be the bulb or something else. Should I take it to an electric shop or a regular mechanic? I understand that CEL issues are common to Fords of this vintage, but the Ford dealers haven't been useful.
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I have a 2000 Grand Marquis. Yesterday I turned the key and the starter didn't crank. Everything else came on like it is supposed to. Radio, dash, warning lights, etc. After trying a few times, it started but the starter wouldn't disengage. I had to disconnect the battery for it to stop. I changed the ignition switch and cycled the key, but when I try to hook the battery back up, the starter immediately begins to crank. Even when the key is off and out of the ignition.
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99 Grand Marquis. Transmission won't down shift unless you release the gas pedal. Check engine light not on, no OBD codes. Changed the transmission fluid and filter. Fluid level OK.
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THE PROBLEM: The Power Locks, Trunk Release and Power Windows Lock on my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis have stopped working altogether. They don't work with either the key remote or the actual control panel in the car itself. So the only way to open the car or trunk is the old fashioned way, with the key. SO FAR...I've tried replacing the fuse - a 20 Amp CB - on the fuse panel, but it had no effect. What's my next step?
A LITTLE BACKGROUND: Recently a different key remote stopped working for this same issue. I tried replacing the battery in the key remote, but it had no effect. So I began using my spare key remote and it worked fine for about a week. But during this time the control panel in the car still worked properly. Now nothing works. Not sure if the other remote's issue was related or not to what's wrong now.
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1988 Mercury Grand Marquis
It jerks on occasion. Seems to do this at the point when it should downshift, but does not downshift. If I press down on the gas so that it downshifts then it runs fine.
Does it worst in cruise control. If I take it off of cruise control I can 'feel' when it is about to jerk and I can prevent it from jerking by either letting off on the gas a little bit, or pushing down on the gas so that it downshifts. Some of the time in cruise control it downshifts very smoothly.
It was getting worse and some good injector cleaner added to the gas seemed to solve the problem but it never did go away completely.Lately it has been getting a lot worse, mainly on moderate upgrades. Have not had a chance to get more good injector cleaner recently. The jerk is almost like the computer tells the engine to shut but then changes its mind.
1988 Ford Crown Victoria
Did a similar thing, mostly on fairly flat ground at around 35 MPH constant speed, when it seemed to be indecisive on whether to downshift or not.
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