Mitsubishi - Outlander :: Vibration When Accelerating In First Gear (automatic)
Mar 23, 2014
Past 6 months I have a vibration/shimmy in '08 Outlander when accelerating in first gear (automatic). I can feel in my foot on accelerator and when passenger seat is empty the seat belt vibrates against door panel. It is not in steering wheel or tires. No hesitation or skipping in engine, just vibration that goes away once car gets into 2-3 gear. Dealer said transmission tested fine. Naturally.
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One thing you hate to hear when you go to a mechanic's is "that's a common problem" and "there's no permanent fix for it." Since we moved to a shady street, my car is leaking dirty water on the inside passenger side from under the dash, especially when I make a left turn. It really can start to smell bad and I now keep a bucket under the dash and have to leave the window cracked despite the daily rain in Tampa. Twice I have had the lines blown out, but I was told the problem would come back and to really clean it out and that the problem would come back anyway after that. According to my mechanic, the problem stems from the leaves getting inside the engine and clogging up some line. And to everyone else, don't buy a Mitsubishi Outlander.
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2010 Mitsubishi Outlander ES On three separate occasions, while driving, my check brake warning light has come on. When I brake, it immediately turns back off. On the second occasion it came back on about a minute later, but again, turned right back off after pressing the brake. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens--the first time I was going about 25mph, the next two times it happened on the highway when I was going 55. It has happened within a couple of minutes of starting up, or after about 15 minutes. I haven't driven it for further than about 20 miles since it started, so I can't speak to whether it continues to occur on long drives or not. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I haven't experienced any difference in braking--same amount of pressure when I press the pedal, same stopping distances, no vibrations or noises, etc. It was also recently at the shop for an oil change and tire rotation. The car is about 2.5-3 years old and has 20,600 miles on it (I don't drive much!). I checked the brake fluid; it is smack dab in the middle of the min and max lines, and it is clean. It was also just in over Christmas for the big 2 year/30,000 mile check and everything was totally fine. What this could be?
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Have a metallic/rattling sound under my car while idling. Don't hear it while driving. 2010 Mitsubishi Outlander
Here is link to sound file [URL] ....
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I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander. About two months ago, I replaced (myself) the radiator fan because it had stopped working. I bought the new fan on the internet and it was fairly easy to install. It was a little louder than the original fan, but it worked great. Last week it suddenly became louder and stays on for a minute after I turn the car off. Is the fan defective? Should I return it? Should I ask my mechanic to test it? Or just ignore it?
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On three separate occasions, while driving, my check brake warning light has come on. When I brake, it immediately turns back off. On the second occasion it came back on about a minute later, but again, turned right back off after pressing the brake. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens--the first time I was going about 25mph, the next two times it happened on the highway when I was going 55. It has happened within a couple of minutes of starting up, or after about 15 minutes. I haven't driven it for further than about 20 miles since it started, so I can't speak to whether it continues to occur on long drives or not. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I haven't experienced any difference in braking--same amount of pressure when I press the pedal, same stopping distances, no vibrations or noises, etc. It was also recently at the shop for an oil change and tire rotation. The car is about 2.5-3 years old and has 20,600 miles on it (I don't drive much!). I checked the brake fluid; it is smack dab in the middle of the min and max lines, and it is clean. It was also just in over Christmas for the big 2 year/30,000 mile check and everything was totally fine.
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I have an 02 mitsu lancer and over the course of 3 days the car has gotten REALLY loud only when accelerating. it sounds like it has been straightpiped but the muffler is still there. Also when accelerating the car vibrates very noticeably - I can feel it in the steering column and the gas pedal. When I have been accelerating and come off the gas, the car makes a loud hiss that sounds like blowoff valves which is weird because this is obviously a naturally aspirated car. I would have thought there could just be a hole in the exhaust system but that doesn't explain the vibrating and all of these symptoms arose at the same time. What could this be?
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This new discussion is for owners of 2006 Grand Vitara 4x4 SUV with the automatic transmission. Experiencing a vibration while accelerating between 45-60 MPH. This is an on-going problem for many of us and we need to make sure that Suzuki of America hears us loud and clear, and develops a solution.
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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Anyway, I just bought an '03 Mitsubishi Spyder Automatic with around 160,000 miles. The car seems to be in decent shape and runs well but there is a pretty prominent creaking or groaning coming from the front of the car (close to where my feet would go, but more towards the front) in certain situations that is about a 7/10 on the noisy scale. It's worse when accelerating from a dead stop (faster the car gets going, the less likely the creaking) but also happens when braking (again, more likely at slower speeds) and when shifting from Park to Drive/Reverse. In short, it seems to happen when the car shifts momentum or weight suddenly. I haven't noticed it at much (if at all) when I get to higher speeds. I don't think it is a suspension issue because I haven't noticed it when going over bumps or when I go push on the front of the car. It also doesn't seem like a braking issue since it's a little worse when accelerating and there are no problems when braking at higher speeds.
A few more details on the car:
-The previous owner replaced the transmission and either replaced or serviced the axels about 2 months ago.
-Previous owner mentioned the car had been sitting a decent amount the past year and hadn't been used a ton.
-I noticed quite a bit of rust on the certain spots on the inside of the wheels (noise not coming from the wheels) but haven't noticed any significant rust issues anywhere else, although I haven't really been able to look thoroughly under the car.
-There may have been other repairs recently as well.
I can look over service records more closely later. I'm planning on taking it in for an oil change soon and will have a mechanic look into it.
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I own a Lancer Evolution X and I've been having a strange issue where, when accelerating around 2500-3500 rpm a thick cloud of blueish smoke starts pouring from the exhaust for about a second or two accompanied by a loss in power. The smoke stops quickly and then it runs like normal. This only happens once in a while for a second or two. When idling there is no smoke. Or at Wot. There is no coolant mixing with oil. The oil was recently changed with the proper oil. and it still happens once in a while. I checked the turbo and there is no shaft play or oil inside of it. There is no loss of boost. Although I did see a tiny pool of oil near the turbo inlet and some more oil coating the inside of the intake pipe. is it possible that the turbo just sucks up some oil that collects at the end of the intake? the PCV line which connects to the intake appears to be letting some oil into the intake.
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Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
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I've got a 2008 Mitsubishi lancer. I've noticed a gradual vibration coming from the front suspension. At first I could just hear it, but now I can feel it in my steering wheel and a little in my pedals. It doesn't vibrate when I accelerate, nor does it vibrate (too badly) when I brake, but when I'm holding the speed consistent, or letting off the accelerator is when I really feel it. I also feel it when I turn the wheel slightly to the left, but once I get past this (maybe 5 degree turn) threshold it stops vibrating. I was thinking a wheel bearing or CV joint, but wanted to confirm.
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I am having issues that i think are related to the transmission.
When I am stopped and the car is in drive it starts to vibrate significantly however once i start moving again the vibrations stop.
Switching to neutral or reverse also causes the vibrations to stop.
I am thinking that somehow the transmission is not fully disengaging when the break is pressed like it is supposed to but i may be way off on this.
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My 2000 Mirage (with 145,000 miles) no longer stays in 2nd gear. Due to the age of the car I do not want to replace the transmission but I would like to get a few more months out of the car. For now I am just shifting from 1st to 3rd. My questions are;
(1) Is there anything I can do short or replacing the transmission to get 2nd gear back,
(2) if I don't do anything to fix the transmission is there any reason I should not continue skipping 2nd gear until something else breaks and
(3) is there anything I should do like flush the transmission to try to extend its life?
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I can not resolve a rough idle in gear when engine is warm problem. I've replaced plugs, wires, mounts, isc, o2 sensor, ecu, have no codes.
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I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, It will shake vigorously when it is in gear with my foot on the brake,(say at a stop light). But as soon as i let off of the brake and press on the gas the shaking completely stops. But as soon as I stop again it starts to shake again.
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I was in 1st gear and was about to turn then a car literally going about 40 over the speed limit was coming so by accident as i was still in 1st gear slowed down to much before i could put the car in neutral and it stalled in gear. Would this cause any damage
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Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
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I have a 02 mit. lancer.. I will be going down the highway at 55mph and all the sudden my car's transmission shift down a gear. (maybe 2) it is an awful jolt to the car and me. From then on it is stuck in that gear. Even when i stop at a stop sign it will not shift. if I shut the car off and turn it back on then its fine. It may be fine for a mile or a hundred. Not sure if it is a transmission problem or a computer problem.
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I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.0 DOHC Manual transmission i just replaced the clutch bled the clutch no air in lines drove around the block grinds changing gears then pulled to my driveway and the clutch got stuck and did not want to disengage so had to turn off engine to prevent from hitting the house. There is a rattle in the gear box that's pretty loud the master and slave cylinder dont have any visible leaks even n the boot for the pin that pushes the clutch fork the pin seems to only move maybe an inch and the pedal is ver soft. in fact while driving it seemed it got softer even after i bled the clutch many times still seems to be soft.
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