I've bought a low mileage (70k) 1998 Olds 88 from my mother. Lately it's begun going dead when the key is turned; Trip meter zeros out, clock resets, no starting. You open and slam the door a few times, and suddenly it starts like normal. Obviously electrical, obviously intermittent. Where I should look?
View 2 RepliesCar started fine yesterday. Went down to about 20 last night. New battery last summer. New starter April of 2010.
Car clicked once this morning and no turnover at start. Accessories worked OK. Battery checked OK. Cleaned the battery terminals even though they looked fine. Charged for 15 minutes. Still clicked once and no turnover. Jiggled the neg lines that run to the front fender and charged 15 more mins. Started. Went ahead and disassembled that terminal and cleaned the oxidation off the four wire terminals connected there. Is it possible to get one click and no turnover when those negative lines to the fender are not making good contact? Or, is it most likely something else?
I'm still trying to get a feel for the car and I've noticed that I have to slam the hatch door in order to get the sensor to turn off. I'm hoping I can adjust the sensor or latch. Thought I'd post this while I'm free to do so. its not really a big deal. I'm just curious what others have to say about it since I'm new to Passat wagons.
View 5 RepliesI've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
Car 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Engine 3.8 series II 160,000 KM
Problem : The Steering wheel won't move, I can start and drive the car forward/reverse but the wheel won't move right or left?? I was planning on scrapping the car in spring 2015 but need to move the car and don't have a clue on fixing this issue.
The key cylinder is located in the dash and I don't have any passlock II codes errors when trying to start the car, My power steering pump doesn't squeal or is locked (not Burning belts) but the pump is empty. I was thinking a seized rack & pinion but have never heard of that,I should still have manual steering I'm guessing still.
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My wife's 1998 oldsmobile intrigue. i have replaced the starter with a rebuild from advance auto parts, had the alternator rebuilt and installed a new battery. the car runs until the battery dies and then it will shut down while driving. it can be jumped and started but will die again when the battery drains.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought an '98 Oldsmobile Intrigue, I do not know much of anything more than how to check fluids and were to put them when low, So here's the issues that I have come across.
Roughish idle. when stopped and in drive it has a rough idle but not bad yet.
Driver Side windows do not go up or down. The driver window is stuck with a 1/4 inch gap I keep weather proof tape over it. the back window slides up and down but not with the button also held up by tape. I can hear the motor running when I press the button but no luck.
A/C motor works but no air blows out of the vents.
Driver side back up lights don't work and Driver side front blinker or parking light does not work.
Security light recently come on and can't get it to go off whenever the car is started and it is a steady light no flash or blink.
I already know there is a small leak in the radiator and even with the issues it has I love the lil car and want to fix it up to proper working order. So, what I can possibly do?
3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
View 2 RepliesMy Regency will randomly not start. No turn-over, interior lights nice and bright, all lights on dashboard come up. No security light shows up on dashboard thus does not appear to be security system.
Seems to occur more often when car is driven a short distance. Twice I have made short drives come back several hours later car does not start. I wait 7-10 minutes then try again and car starts right up.
I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with 103,000 miles. I'm receiving the codes P0300B Misfire and P0440B Evap Emission.
I use Premium Unleaded gas (not at a cheap station) so I don't think it's the gas causing the misfire code P0300B. Also I've put on a new gas cap but I still get the Evap Emission code P0440B.
Working on a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with these 2 codes?
My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
View 19 RepliesWas running with a slight miss until reach 30 mph for about 5 days now this morning, turning over and over but won't start..checked 2 plug wires no spark to ground..how to fix and make start?
View 5 Replies98 Ford Escort SE
Been having acceleration issues with the Escort for a while now. The repairs I've made on the vehicle so far are; new fuel pump, coil pack and mass air flow sensor cleaning. Those are in order.
Now onto the issue. From a dead stop and sometimes while driving my vehicle will give acceleration issues though mostly from a dead stop. Checked the tranny fluid and it was a light brown with bubbles(?) so thought I'd do a fluid change but with the work required wanted some input before ripping into it.
I have a 98 Audi A6. Immediately when I hit the accelerator from a dead stop I hear a slight bang that seems to come from under the car in the area under the front drivers seat. It only happens when I hit the gas and the car starts forward. I'm not putting the pedal to the floor either, just a nice gradually start from a dead stop. This is the only time that I hear this noise, nothing while driving or making turns. The noise sounds like when you might squeeze and empty tin box! that distinct bang you hear. What might this be?
View 8 RepliesRecently purchased this 1996 Achieva. Had trouble starting it from the "get go". Had to turn the key and if the lights came on it would start when one turned the key further. If the lights (dash lights) didn't come on one would have to turn the car all the way off and try again. This process was getting longer and longer until it would not start at all. Mechanic says the computer is telling it that it is stolen. Also, it has a Pontiac steering column.
View 11 RepliesIn both my 1998 and 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport the speakers in the LF door went dead. In both cases I found a factory splice that went bad. The splice was in the wiring harness that passes through the "boot" from the door to the body. Who ever heard of a splice in an area where the wires flex? I ran a new wire to fix it. I have a copy of the wiring diagram.
View 14 RepliesMy car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 Alero with 124,000 miles and it's been giving me problems lately. Sometimes while I'm driving my car just shuts off. Radio still on and lights work, but the car just stops running. There are days where I can start my car with no problems and there are days where my vehicle doesn't start at all for days/weeks. I've taken my car to two different shops and they didn't find anything wrong with it but as soon as I got it back it started doing the same thing again. What is wrong with this car or what I need to do?
View 11 RepliesI have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
View 8 RepliesI'm driving an 87 v6 auto cutlass 130 000 km on it. Recently changed alternator and battery at mechanic.
After start up i put the car into gear but it wont shift into gear unless I give it a lot of gas and even when I do so it seems to have trouble keeping momentum /staying in gear. The shifts are rough. However after driving for a few minutes there are no issues at all.
It's been quite cold lately and I've noticed that if I let the car run for about 10-15 minutes before driving it's fine, no problems (although this seems a bit excessive).
Could this simply be an old car/cold weather issue or is there something else to consider?
I am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.