Plymouth - Neon :: 1995 SOHC Driving Very High Idle
Jun 10, 2015
I have a 95 neon SOHC that drives with a very high Idle. Not all the time, but 85% of the time witch i find strange. This has been going on for the better part of a year and the car is almost undrivable. Its putting a hurting on my breaks for sure.
I had replaced the PCM 5 years ago. Replaced the timing belt 2 months ago. I have searched all around for vacuum leaks but am not able to find anything. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it very well. I replaced the IAC.
The car continues to idle out of control as if the IAC is wide open. The only way to get the car to idle correctly is to cover the idle hole in the throttle body 90% up with my finger. The guy at Auto Zone said if its not IAC or vacuum hoses, then I should start replacing sensors. How do I diagnose this problem?
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I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
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Ok, ready for a new head scratcher? After replacing the starter, the battery cables, the camshaft position sensor, several hoses that were broken and/or disconnected, a wire for the transmission "forgot the name of it, but technically it was a cable with a piece of plastic that connected to the throttle", air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery temperature sensor, ignition coil, several missing fuses, I got a new code.
This code came up and I believe it is the same code that came up before, but I think it got masked by the battery temperature sensor and the "random cylinder misfire." It only appears when I reach speeds of 60 mph or above, the code is P1899 and when I took it to Autozone, Oreilly's, and Dick Poe Dodge, they were unable to figure out what the code meant.
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The equipment:1995 Buick Regal Custom 3.8
I noticed a year ago that my car would randomly stall out coming into work after a 20-25 minute drive. It then started to idle really high, very rarely. So i cleaned the throtle body, new air filter, new fuel filter, sparks, and wires. This is about where my expertise ends.
Its seemed better, however, it would act up now and again (stall) but I was fine with it.
Recently I have noticed that the car idles really high 1.5 in drive (compared to 900) and 2k in park after I have drove for 20-25 mins. So I put the computer to the car and all I have is transmission error codes which I have had since I owned the car at 80,000 miles and I am now to 160,000 miles. This car has been pretty good to me because it starts, goes forward, and backwards! What else can you really ask for. A better idle maybe?
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I own a 1987 Plymouth Horizon, 70, 000 miles on it. Long story short, The car sat for 3 years without being driven. It would just be started up whenever the other owners wanted to. I have fixed a lot of its problems, and replaced tires, brakes, hoses, belts etc.. Problem I am having is when itis started up it is at a very high idle and will not allow you to kick it down till it warms up or it idles down on it's own after being warm. I have sprayed carburetor cleaner around the linkage and so on but it still does it. What could be causing it?
Like I said the car sat for 3 years and did have gas in it when I bought it and not being able to drain out the old gas I put HEET gas-line antifreeze & water remover in it. The fuel filter has been changed out twice. Once you get it on the road it runs like a champ for being 24 years old. It's just the high idle when you first start it up. The owner of it had some little quirks I guess you would say. He had and they are still there, two clothes pens on the gas rail/line and they were there because of vapor lock. They are located on two different parts of the line I guess to balance it out. Now I don't know if this is true or how even remotely possible two clothes pens could have anything to work with vapor lock. Now I do know that on occasion it will run a bit and stop when you cut off the engine, though not all the time....
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My neon has a leak that was diagnosed today as a rear main seal. I realize this is an expensive repair and am wondering two things:
1) Can I limp it along until next Spring by adding oil as needed?
2) Can try stop leak additives? If so, which one?
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I have a 1998 plymouth neon that is leaking oil from the filler cap, I have replaced the cap 4 times and it still leaks from this same spot. What it might be?
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I have a 2001 Plymouth neon and the coolant fan cuts on and off about every 30 seconds .
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I noticed a knocking sound from my 1996 Plymouth Neon when I hit some bumps. Poked my head underneath and see what appears to be the strut loose inside the spring. I am afraid that the "Damper Shaft Nut" came undone somehow? If so, how do I remove the quick-strut? Is the spring in danger of being sprung?
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When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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On my 97 X SOHC, I have a temp gauge that is rather erratic. It reads high even with the engine off and cold and rises when the engine is running to the point the "Check gauges" light illuminates. Then bounces to normal then back near red line. This cycle continues.
To evaluate this, I bought a scan tool and the ECT reads as expected, around ambient to start, gradual climb till the thermostat opens, then hovers there while the radiator does its thing. Heater works as expected. So I'm fairly confident that my X doesn't have a cooling issue.
What my questions are: Can I disconnect the temp sender so I'm not watching the gauge bounce around and then the Check Gauges light is available for other issues that arise?
Does the check gauge light also send a signal back to the PCM?
Can I do any damage to the truck or will the PCM throttle the power back and flash the Check Engine light if a real cooling issue materializes?
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I have tried playing with screw that controls throttle plate it does work at first allowing to reach 1200 rpm at idle however after stopping car and starting again it does go down to ~600rpm again like computer adjusts it back to desired level. There's also **** on Idle valve however turning it does nothing.
Is there way to reprogram computer to make 1200 a desired RPM?
Like try this yourself reach about 1200 rpm and then hold your leg still not looking at the rpm your once you hold it for a while it goes down to normal rpm, only way to hold constant 1200 RPM is to play with gas pedal.
I want to raise RPM to avoid misfire.
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4.0 SOHC cranks once no start, then starts on second crank. 104K miles and used to idle very smooth, now mildly rough and sometimes upon stopping the rpms will dip down to almost stalling but not every time. Also just had the fuel pump replaced.
Also... Seafoam? Is this really as good as it sounds, I mean it can be used on anything, except cereal!
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I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager se about a year ago the transmission started acting up, for no reason, it would just go it to First and never come out I would stop turn it off turn it back on again and it would be fine..then days later it would go by, it would do it again. it did this for a while and the good days would turn in to a mile or two then it just decided not to come out of first ever, during this, i took it to a trany shop and rebuilt the transmission it worked for a bout a half hour.
Final a mechanic friend checked the computer again and changed it out with another and it fixed it beautifully!!! ok well about a week ago a very odd loud obnoxious squeal started that sounded like a bottle rocket but not all the time, more often than not though. Before I got a chance to take it to my mechanic friend i was driving along and the transmission slipped in to first and wont that's it. i have been doing emergency trips in first gear and also the horrid squeal is gone. the thing have to be linked what should I try and i don't think its the computer, I really don't want to lose my van
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My car is idling high while driving and when coming to a stop. I do not have a rpm meter so i don't know what my rpms are reading. What could be the problem?
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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
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My 95 3000gt is smoking after about 30 minutes of driving. Smokes mainly when idle and upon acceleration. car has about 200k in mile. what could cause this.
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1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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Wife was driving her car and went around a corner when out of the blue it died. Unable to re-start. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil pack and still no response. I'm not a mechanic and don't know where any of the sensors are located. I tried doing the self-diagnostics test but now none of the dash lights come on. Car cranks just fine. I've heard that it may be sensors, it could be the safety switch. It's a 95 Plymouth Neon Sport, 2.0 SOHC Five Speed manual.
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