Pontiac - Grandam :: 1995 - Harder To Start When Engine Is Cold
Dec 31, 2011
I have a '95 pontiac grand AM with about 208,000 miles on it. About a week ago, i noticed it was getting harder to start when the engine is cold. When the engine has warmed up, it starts up right away, however, the engine begins to sputter and sounds as if it is going to die. The engine still sputters while driving and the car begins to jolt back and forth. When I come to a stop, the car sounds as if its going to shut off. Today, I started the car and it was sputtering so I turned it off and then wasn't able to start it for about 40 mins. I let the car sit for about 20 mins and then tried it, started right up. What could be causing the sputtering and engine throbbing? What's wrong?
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT with 151,000 miles (I have had the car for 6,000). I recently just changed the oil with 5w-30 which is the 3rd oil change I have done and have used the same brand and viscosity. It seems the oil is a little overfilled this time (maybe 1/4-1/3 of an extra quart). I noticed a knocking coming from the engine (closer to bottom of engine than top) on a cold start. It sounds like a rock being knocked against a hard surface. I can only hear the knocking if I am outside of the car, if I am in the car I can't hear it at all. The knocking lasts for maybe 20-30 seconds. If I press the accelerator (when in park) the knocking goes away, and if I let off the accelerator then it comes back. I can't really test to see if the knocking persists while driving since I can't hear it from the cab.
I know I should do all the routine maintenance when getting a used car (spark plugs, etc), but I bought from a friend who put spark plugs on maybe 25,000 miles ago.
I read that maybe I should be using different viscosity of oil in the summer (even though the manual says 5w-30 all year, I live in North Central Nebraska)? Is the knocking maybe due to the slightly overfilled oil? Should I try to drain that excess out? Should I just go ahead and replace the spark plugs and wires as well?
I drive ~750 highway miles a month and hope I can get this car to last a few years. So far it seems pretty good, have only had to change the ECT sensor and thermostat on it, suspension bushings still look good. I just never heard this noise before and it kind of freaked me out. I probably would have never heard it but I just happen to start the car and needed to grab something from the garage.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4L V6. The engine runs perfectly as long as it is kept hot. If allowed to cool completely it will crank and crank all day but never fire. However, if I disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes and reconnect it, it fires right up every time. I have good fuel pressure when it will not fire, but it seems as if the injectors will not fire. Suspecting the injection driver, I replaced the ECM/PCM. The exact same problem still exists.
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My son's 1995 Pontiac Am windows are stuck closed. My understanding is that behind each of the doors is a regulator for the window. I was wondering how likely it was for all 4 regulators to go bad, or if the problem was possibly in the center console controls. Either way is there an easy way to diagnose the problem, before I start randomly replacing window motors
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My car won't start and I'm trying to figure out why. What is going on. The kind of car I have:
2003 Pontiac Grand Am
2.2L, In-Line4, VIN(F) DOHC
Has about 160,000 on it
Issue I'm having:
Car turns but won't start
"Service Engine Soon" light is on
Tried to jump it (made sure to let it charge for awhile) to no avail
Was low on gas but was not empty -- we filled it up and it still won't turn
Specifically for this model, it is not the Security Bypass issue (where you reset it after 10 minutes)
Recent work history:
On 2/4/14, I took my car to the shop after the check engine light was blinking when I tried to go above 25mph:
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced Air Filter
Replaced Ignition Coil Pack
Replaced Spark Plug Boot (Coil to Plug)
Replaced Ignition Control Module
Replaced Fuel Filter
When I drove my car away, the "Check Engine Light" came on. Took it back, this is what they did:
Access computer for codes : "P0172 system to rich on bank 1"
They told me that there was a possible injector leaking down and recommended a fuel injector cleaning. They said I was ok to drive it for awhile and did not have to do it right that moment.
I did light driving on the car but left it in the burbs as I live in the city. When I moved five months later, I brought the car back to the city. I noticed my air conditioning was not working (will blow heat just fine but will not blow cold).
I changed my oil not long after bringing it to the city, in that same month. Besides the air conditioning, I haven't had any real issues and have done local driving through the city.
I took the car out on Friday, drove to Madison, and drove back the next day with no issues (300m trip). This morning we took the car out to the burbs to visit family (20m) -- now it won't start. What it could be?
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My car is idling high while driving and when coming to a stop. I do not have a rpm meter so i don't know what my rpms are reading. What could be the problem?
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I have a '95 Pontiac Grand AM. The Heater Coil/Core is leaking onto the passenger side floor. Bad Core. In addition, the car keeps over heating intermittently, whether it's stopped at a light or driving over 35mph out on the road. The gauge goes into the red, but then after a minute it goes back down. We replaced the Thermostat thinking that it was sticking. Drove it around a good 10 mile run. Didn't over heat. Next day, it over heats. Just took it to the garage where they ran it and did compression check.
For over 4 hours they tried to get it to overheat. It wouldn't. They replaced an old radiator cap. They said if that doesn't work, it could be the head gasket (no sign of any fluids mixing - oil cap is clean. No milky residue) or replace the thermostat, which we said we already did. Drove it 2 miles. Started to get hot again. Going to bypass the core to see if this might be the problem. Could there be air bubble from bad core? Not sure if this is the right direction, but I am at a total loss as to what it could be. Pump is running. Radiator fan running.
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My 2003 Pontiac Grand Am often doesn't start in warm weather. The engine will crank but not start, but if I then leave the key in the run position for exactly ten minutes, the security system seems to calm down and I can switch it off then start the car (a kind tow driver taught me that trick). This doesn't happen in the winter in Pittsburgh, but might happen one start out of six in the summer.
I had the ignition cylinder replaced once, and it took care of the problem for about a year. After it came back, I was told to do exactly the same thing again. At first I decided to punish the dealer by spending another summer loafing in parking lots, but this year I can't take it any more. Should I replace it again? Should a dealer warrant the longevity of the repair?
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I just got a 96 Grand Am for second vehicle, but it won't blow any air (hot or cold), I checked fuses they all look good. I'm thinking possibly blower motor, but wanted to get some feedback before I start plugging away.
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Whenever it's cold outside (I live in MN, so it gets really, really cold), my car fills up with a very strong gas odor. It only happens when I am at a stop as well. I have taken it in, and have been told that nothing is wrong. The smell is so strong that I have to roll down the windows and my friends are refusing to ride in my car! I am worried that it's dangerous.
It's a Pontiac Grand Am from 2005. 102,000 miles, roughly.
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2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
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Have a 2004 Grand am that was having some problems starting:
1) The last 10 times it would start cold, but it would take about 5-10 seconds of turnover before actually starting.
2) After it started, it would start fine the rest of the day.
Now it will not start at all. Today is the coldest day of the year so far... 43 degrees. It tries to turn over. The security light came on once, but did not come on again (i know that's a common problem). (note: I have not seen it in person, but will later today). Either fuel or spark.
My thought: either fuel pump, fuel pump relay, sensor, wires/plugs, etc.
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
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2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am it will start once but after that if you turn off ignition it will not start again until it has sat for a long time.
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I have A 2004 Pontiac grand am and am trying to install a non factory stereo. The previous owner cut the adapter wires to the original radio and had them taped together so I had to wire the new CD player directly to my car and run an ACC wire to the fuse box. Well now after I have done this my blinkers don't work nor do my wipers and my car won't start.
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I have a 99 pontiac grand am that sometimes won't start and lately it is cutting out when I am stopped and idling at stop lights/signs. And today it just died when I was driving, it started right back up, then died again about three times, then it seemed to be fine, I drove it for about 2 miles and it just died and won't restart. We have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition switch, fuel relay fuse twice, air filter, and some sort of module.
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Our Grand Am runs well when it decides to start! But occasionally when the key is turned all the way on, the starter may take a few minutes to engage, or not at all. Usually it just starts right up, but not every time, so it is not reliable. The key lock cylinder has been replaced.
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2003 Pontiac grand am 3.4 car cranks has great fuel pressure and spark will not start when ambient temp under 75 deg without hot shot then fine the rest of day..have replaced fuel pump map sensor cam sensor air temp sensor.
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So, a couple weeks ago, while driving down the highway, my '99 Grand Am had the oil lamp come on, and the engine was running rough. I pulled over and stopped the car, and then went to try to start it, to no avail. The engine wouldn't crank. After getting it home via tow truck, I charged the battery as first aid.Now, with the charged battery, the engine will start, and run very roughly, as in shaking the entire engine bay. Further, the oil lamp is on now. After a minute of running like this, the engine dies off. Stepping on the gas expedites the stalling out. I've checked and filled the oil, and the coolant (which was low). My next guesses are fuel filter and timing belt.
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After the cold hit last night I turned my car on and it starts to shake a lot, also white smoke so I drove it to work while driving it takes forever to pick up speed and jumps speeds on rpm while shaking a lot and then I got off work and now its so hard to turn the wheel now(I put in steering fluid) and still shakes badly. I smelt burning kinda before work and I no I'm due for oil change so I just put oil in atm bcuz I have no time to take it any where atm since I work to full time jobs. Also the Trac off light is on and my service engine light is blinking.
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