Pontiac - Grandam :: 2004 V6 - Rough Idle And Hesitation
Oct 12, 2011
I own a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am V6... recently it has developed a rough idle - kind of like the car is hiccuping - and it hesitates when I accelerate from a stop. Now, it doesn't have issues changing gears so I'm not inclined to believe its a transmission issue...thought it might be the fuel filter, but I changed it and that did nothing.. I'm not getting a check engine light, which is frustrating because if I try to pull the codes it won't throw me any... so it's a guessing game now. I've gotten mixed reviews - anything from a bad catalytic converter to a faulty O2 sensor or idle air controller or a bad head gasket.. but my exhaust is completely clean...others say maybe its bad spark plug wires or other electrical issue (which is a whole other ball game) or possibly bad fuel injectors causing a misfire?
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My wife's 2000 grand am 2.4L engine is acting really funny. this is the first problem we've had with it. i was driving it to pick up my kids from school. on the way i stopped and got some gas from the marathon then drove about 5minutes and it started running really ruff lose of power wouldn't go above 30mph seemed like the transmission took longer to shifter to.
i made it to the school as i was about 2 1/2 blocks away. got my kids check the oil and it was really low so i got 2 quarts as it was a gas station in walking distance. i thought it was a lil better but i started driving it and it had the same results. i got it home about a 10minute trip regularly and parked it.
the next day day it ran then stumbled hard. and every time i tried to start it got the same think was like a lock up. it did crank but when it tried to start it stumbled or locked up. i pulled the plugs had some wet threads oil was on the first on and the threads and around the spark plug b4 i pulled it out.
2 of the other plugs had red stuff on them not on the threads though. here are some pictures also i will show a vid of what its doing. i did a compression test and here are the numbers starting with the first one with oil on threads.
190-194-200-190+ compression test with cold engine.
Also smoked puffed up not sure from where yet..
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I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
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This is on a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM.
The old GM ABS light problem. The lights were on a month ago and the left front hub was replaced, the light went out. They just came back on all of a sudden (coincided with the temperature dropping to 15F). The next day they were out. Then the next day they came back on. I couldn't get a code read with the basic scan tool.
Where should I start? I'm thinking of cleaning the speed sensor connectors and reseating with dialectic grease. Maybe they're dirty or a bit brittle due to age and the cold?
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
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Have a 2004 Grand am that was having some problems starting:
1) The last 10 times it would start cold, but it would take about 5-10 seconds of turnover before actually starting.
2) After it started, it would start fine the rest of the day.
Now it will not start at all. Today is the coldest day of the year so far... 43 degrees. It tries to turn over. The security light came on once, but did not come on again (i know that's a common problem). (note: I have not seen it in person, but will later today). Either fuel or spark.
My thought: either fuel pump, fuel pump relay, sensor, wires/plugs, etc.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with a 3.4L engine. When I start my car after it has been sitting for a while, especially in the morning, the engine shutters making the car shake when it is put into Reverse and Drive. Plus a horrible gas smell come from the hood and into the heating vents. So to alleviate the shaking I let the car run for several minutes which in turn makes the gas smell worse. The smell continues to get worse when the car is stopped at a alight or stop sign. to eventually go away as the car heats up. The check engine light blinks with the shaking then disappears but eventually stayed on with a cylinder misfire code. I took it to a shop who told me that was the head gaskets.
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I have a 2004 Grand Am and a month or so ago, I started it up and all the dashboard functions failed. RPM, speedometer, odometer, fuel, temp all stopped working. The dials read zero and the odo did readout but did not advance. Some of the idiot lights also came on. The radio is also dead and is either totally blank or reads "LOC", but the air blows fine. Also the key fob will not lock/unlock and neither will the door controls lock the doors but the windows work. It was fine the next day. Now it has returned and has lasted 2 days so far.
Full disclosure: I did replace the PCM in December because something in the Passlock system was failing and not letting me start the car. The replacement PCM is an exact replacement that has had the Passlock code commented out. There have been zero problems with the PCM since then.
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
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I have A 2004 Pontiac grand am and am trying to install a non factory stereo. The previous owner cut the adapter wires to the original radio and had them taped together so I had to wire the new CD player directly to my car and run an ACC wire to the fuse box. Well now after I have done this my blinkers don't work nor do my wipers and my car won't start.
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2004 pontiac grand am, after driving and shutting off the car, it will not restart or stalls out while waiting at traffic lights. When I try to restart the car, all I get is clicking sounds, only does this on warm or hot humid days. The dealer told me to just hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine till it restarts. I have tried the turning on the key for a minute, wait, then turn the key back off, and then to restart, but that doesn't work either. If I wait for a good ten minutes, the car usually starts. When I turn on the key I do hear the fuel pump kick in. I have replaced the fuel regulator, ignition switch, keys, computer chip in the ignition system, battery, and starter- twice. I have heard that it could be a crankshaft sensor? No codes are showing up when this happens.
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I will try my best to describe the problem:When the car sits for quite a few hours it basically will try to fire up , but can take 4,5,6 seconds before it will actually start. It is a fast turn over just as if your car was going to start normally, but it just takes time. This is not a slow turn over as in a battery problem, or a very cold weather thick oil problem.After the car starts the initial time, you can turn it off and start it and it fires right up.
When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the Fuel Pump. I have tried doing this a few times in a row, but it doesn't work for the initial start.
This has been going on for about 8 months, and I have basically ignored the problem. The last few starts the same issue persisted except instead of firing up after 4,5,6 seconds it just shuts off. After this I turn the key over and it still fires right up.
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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My car has had issues with the "low coolant" light coming on for over a year. No one could ever find a leak, the coolant level was always pretty good, and I never had a puddle.
Recently, my mechanic suspected it was the heater core. Since I earn early childhood teacher wages, I couldn't afford to have it fixed. As a temporary solution, he bypassed the heater core in order to buy me some time. Now, I have no heat or defrost. But also, the leak has gone out of control! I have to put coolant in daily, and I always have a puddle under my car when I am leaving work at the end of the day.
My car's newest trick is smoke, coming from under the hood, and the fresh smell of burning coolant. However, temperature is fine, at least that's what the gauge says.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with 90K. If the overnight temperature has been below 40ish, there is a noticeable hesitation or stumble (almost as if the engine cuts out for a second-but never actually stalls out) on the 2 to 1 downshift when braking to a stop while the vehicle is in open loop. As the engine warms up the stumble becomes less noticeable until the temp gauge reaches the 1/4 mark at which point the stumble is gone. It won't return until the following morning - the next cold start. Our mechanic has cleaned the Throttle Body and the MAF- no change. Their transmission guy said he did not think it was a tranny issue. It has no other symptoms and seems to shift normally at all other times. What to do next??
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I have a 99 silverado with the 4.8 w/186k on the clock. I am having an issue with rough idle and hesitation on cold start up. Once the truck warms up the idle and hesitation go away. I have replaced the PCV valve hoping this fixed it, but it did not. I have also cleaned the TB and the MAF.
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2002 elantra hesitates and sometimes stalls staring from rest. Worse when cold but still sluggish after warm up. Where do I start?
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I have been having some recent issues with my 92 bird lately. It started minor but now the car will not stay on. It originally started out as I would need to press the gas to get it to start and it would stay on, but now if I let my foot off the gas for anything it will just idle rough and die out. I took it into a shop and they said that I had a bad idle control valve and the pigtails need to be replaced. They also said that some wires were shorted out and they would replace those as well. They replaced the Pigtails and the idle control valve and the car started to work fine again, for about 4 days only. I drove to the store and when I came back out to start it back up it wouldn’t stay on unless I gave it gas.
I had to drive it home giving it gas and using my other foot on the brake so that it didn’t due out. I checked the job they did and doesn’t even look like they did what they said they did. I looked at the botched shrink tube job they did and it just doesn’t look that professionally done. I did call the guy and he gave me an excuse and said that they short must have traveled further and he was surprised that the car was even running when they were done. I of course just hung up the phone after hearing that. I did a little looking around the engine and I noticed that if you unplug a vacuum tube and press on the gas and hold it at 2000 rpm for a few seconds and let off the car will stay on, but the moment I plug that hose back up with my finger or plug it back in the tube slot, the car idles rough for a few moments and dies.
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So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
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I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
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I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
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